Had to take a pic, just washed it. Looking MINTY, love my econoshitbox, never selling this piece of art.

Been searching everywhere for answers on stance for my jeep xj(stock as of now) attached is 2 pictures of different builds i really like. I DONT PLAN ON CUTTING FENDERS OR CHANGING BUMPER. The gray one is a 4.5" lift on 31's, not sure of the offset but wanna know and im gonna keep researching to find out. If anyone wants to guess what it is, please do. The red one i like more is on a 6.5" lift and 33's. Eventually i wanna reach the look of the red one, but i think the 4.5" on 31's is the better choice currently cause of cost and labor(also new to jeeps). If anyone has clean builds like this or has any suggestions on wheels(want some american racing bullet holes) or anything please lmk. The lift will be rough country no matter what, wheels and lift size is my main problem rn. I either wanna do 3" or 4.5". I really want this to look good.

First time taking my 1993 XJ into the mountains.

Blew a head gasket on the way up, but we made it home safe and now I gotta replace it.

last photo is a before for reference of beforehand, and to show off my jeeps beauty

After securely mounting the Big 7 kit’s inline fuse holder to the fender well (I don’t have cruise control so there’s room) I found it unacceptable how easily the body grounded hood prop could potentially hit the live positive feeds on this fuse junction. I’ve also seen many photos of others that have this box just floating in their engine bay. Some have even had the fuse melt or catch fire, likely due to it not being secured (of course jeep cables recommends securing it).

Thanks to others advice in this sub I got the Littlefuse Mega 150 from Oreillys for $7 and used an m8 bolt as the post with zero modification to the PDC. This slot in the PDC is perfectly designed to house this size and shape of fuse, there’s even an unused clip to hold it in place.

Also, as I troubleshot my install, the original terminals completely shredded the third time I attached to the battery. The team at Big 7 immediately sent a replacement and provided some more background on the typical soft lead used on most of these military style terminals.

Lastly, if doing this upgrade Id recommend just going with the 2AWG. Unless your stock setup is completely clapped, the size of the 4AWG doesn’t seem like enough of an upgrade if going through the effort. Give yourself some more headroom for a bigger alternator or other upgrades you’ll want later.

Best hunting rig

Immediately posting again. Sorry not. Custom offsets claims they can get this stance on 4.5" lift and 33's and a -27 offset. The gap looks very big. Ik the fenders are cut but it doesnt look like they need to be to fit 33's comfortably at all. If someone could help clear this up lmk. If i can do this, im gonna do exactly this.

As soon as I saw the picture of cones in the trunk, I immediately knew it was an XJ but I couldn’t believe my eyes.

How bizarre! Only in NYC, my beloved hometown ❤️

https://nypost.com/2026/10/15/us-news/rhonys-carole-radziwill-racks-up-8k-in-traffic-fines-despite-placard-abuse/

So over the summer it was overheating, so to fix it, I put a new radiator, electric fan, fan clutch in myself and I had a 195 thermostat put in by a shop. The temperature would usually sit right below 210 on hot summer days. But now the weather as colder, and since my engine won’t get hot enough I can’t get any heat on the heat setting in my car. So I use the vent setting with the heat all the way up. When I am driving on highways in the mountains, with the engine sitting around 2,500-3,000rpm for a while the temperature does climb to right below 210. But with the temperature getting colder, I’d prefer if the heat setting worked in my jeep without having to use vent with the temperature on the climate control hot. So what do you guys suspect on why my jeep won’t get hot enough?

ive been looking into getting an original radio for my '99 xj, since the previous owner put a newer one in(but thats a different story!), so i was messing around in the dash area & unscrewed the switchboard (idk what else to call the area with the switches & outlets at on the bottom lol) to find an extra plug with no switch. The three switches i have are the rear defrost, rear wiper/washer, & foglights. there is also no plug where a fourth switch could go. any ideas??

The Ac system in my 2000 XJ is driving me crazy. I just bought this a month ago and figured that there would be a few kinks that I would need to fix, but this was not on the list. The HVAC system is only blowing a little bit of air from the center vents and a lot more air through the defrost. When I bought it I didn’t check it because I thought maybe it was just how the old system was designed to work. But after reading though the internet I now believe that there is an issue with the either the defrost not having enough vacuum or the defrost door being warped. The vacuum at idle from the engine and the check valve to the ac is the same and when you turn off the vehicle it maintains the 15ish lbs of vacuum. Is it a common issue for 2000s to have warped defrost doors? I really don’t want to remove the dash and air box again.

Still on stock suspension. Im gonna piece together some parts and get hopefully around 3-4 inches higher. 32x10.00R15 mud tires I got out of the recycling pile, they're in great shape. I removed the flares and trimmed the fenders with a grinder, i will do the cut and fold in the rear next. Once I get it lifted more I will squeeze 33x12.50R15's under it, hopefully on the wheels I want to get. I'd say she looks pretty mean already.

I want to get 33” tires but scared to buy them because idk if they will fit. not only 33” but how wide can I fit?

Oil pan gasket was redone 2k miles ago by PO (assume they had to do oil change)

Head machined 13k miles ago and head gasket replaced by PO (overheated)

These flakes seem really large. Im quite concerned. 140k miles on this vehicle.

Recently bought a 97 (4.0). Had our first cold morning and the idle started acting up (video added). I had previously done the valve cover seal, but used new grommets for the CCV and fresh air ports, and brake cleaned all the vacuum lines and didn’t seem to have any vacuum leaks. I removed and cleaned out both the TPS and IAC and reinstalled, and then also replaced the upstream O2 sensor. Fired it up this morning and the same issue is persisting. Any tips on what to check and test from here?

Hey new to xj Cherokees first time owning one. Usually stick to Hondas. Got deal on this XJ running . I experienced the deaths wobble. I lifted the xj on car lift only thing that looks obvious too me where the front upper and lower control arms had play and look off centered. Ball joints had no play steering bar had issues. Can bad control arms cause the death wobble. I driven civic and integras with lower control arms with bad bushings or completely missing I’ve never experienced that wobble before Lowkey scared.

The day I bought my XJ from the original owner who bought a motorcycle and didn’t have room in his garage anymore for the jeep. 2500 bucks and was bought brand new in our town in 1999. Still see the guy and he asks how it’s doing

I'm going to replace the head gasket. What head bolts do I get?

How does the rough country long arm kit ride compared to the others?