Ayuda para aprender manual

It seems like a legitimate shop and they have a cruiser complete in stock that I'm looking at. Based in Florida. I'm wondering if anyone has any experiences ordering from them, especially a complete bike. I know there are some bad online shops out there. They do have a phone number so I may just call to verify the bike is actually in stock and not something they have to order from the supplier.

I bought a brand new Meybo Superclass Pro 23TT and when received, there was no damage to the box…I took it straight to the bike shop for assembly and they called the next day saying the frame has two dents so they are holding off on putting it together….im waiting on an official response, but have been told by the supplier a new complete bike will be shipped once this goes back, or I can take a credit and keep it. Amount of the credit has not been offered yet but supposed to hear tomorrow. I’m wondering if this is superficial damage or should not be ridden? What would an acceptable credit be? I paid $1500 for it.

I picked up this bike at our local track. I was told it’s a Haro frame. Do you know how old this is? Can you guess on the model? Thanks

HEY GUYS!!!! not to sure if u guys remember me but here’s the syndyt Crusier I posted some months ago! If finally done!

Our home track canceled tonight so we went to one about two hours away, it was the first time we'd ever been to this track. My son had 4 riders in his moto. His first lap, he took a turn too wide (it's a dirt track), went ✨️splat✨️, and ended up coming in 4/4 after holding a crazy lead for the entire lap. Came in 1/4 the next two laps by a large margin as well. At the end of the race, we found out he actually got 2nd place. Turns out that specific track uses total points system no matter how many people are in the moto. We've been to multiple tracks and have only ever seen total points utilized for motos of 3 and thought that was the rule? Is it common for total points to be utilized for motos of 4+? He's 7 and big mad, but it is what it is lol I've just never seen total points used for local single races of 4+.

This is the bike I grew up riding, and I'd love some help identifying the year. I'm pretty sure it's from the 1970s. I got it around 1981, and my recollection is that my parents bought it from someone who raced it, so I've always assumed it was probably a mid-'70s bike.It's hanging in my garage right now. I don't think I can see the serial number because it was painted at some point, but I'll check more closely tomorrow.The red seat is original, and I still have the original checkerboard pads tucked away in a box. The brakes have been replaced and are not original to the bike.

Anyone here start BMX racing in their 50s or 60s?

I’m 59 and thinking about giving it a try. I ride MTB trail and DH mostly plus pumptracks with a DJ or BMX freestlye bike and fool around with it in the skateparks too but but have never touched a BMX race bike or track.

Curious what the learning curve is like at this age, how competitive the older classes are, and whether you’d recommend starting on a 20" or 24" cruiser. I was thinking 20 to be a Novice even though Id like a 24 inch bike

Would love to hear from anyone who started or knows someone that started as a true novice oldie

Can anyone make or do any of you know if someone can make the decals/graphics for the es20 xxl I wanna paint it but the only other option I have it’s some guy on Etsy but doesn’t do the smaller details and lines I want

Need a few (2-4) people to test an app for functionality, purpose, and ease of use. I would really like it if some seasoned veterans (expert level) parents/riders and some new to the sport parents/riders (novice/inter) could look it over and relay any issues, likes, loves, hates, nice to haves to build upon what's already established. If anyone is willing to help out I can send you the info along with a trial code to use it for a few days.

Hi riders,

I am 40 years old and started racing roughly 2 years ago along with my son. Recently I took part in the 30+ Novice group race category. And although I had some fun it feels that categories are not really fair for the Novices. There were 3-4 guys with full or partly carbon bikes, pro tyres, gears, etc. Another aspect that although these guys never took part in Regional or National series I see that their skills and experience in general pumping or manualing is way beyond my level or other mature riders I am training with.

I come from martial arts background like judo and boxing. You have different color belts which describe your technique level knowledge. You got different weight classes. Thus categories feel very fair. Same in boxing. When you start your amateur career and have lets three fights a coach will never put you with a guy above your skill and weight level.

But with BMX racing I do not feel the same. Is it so or not?

Hello! I would love to hear feedback on my capstone on protective equipment, like mouthguards in skateboarding! If you are able to complete this it would be so helpful! It's completely anonymous! Thank you

Hello, if you could help me out.

I'm a 30 year old who recently found out what bmx racing is. I am looking for a beginner cruiser bike. I found this tony hawk park 720 bike, 24 inch on FB marketplace for 100 (I am a low baller though). Would this be a decent bike to get started on? I have found a couple of different posts for this bike and all are around bmx tracks, which leaves me to believe it would be a decent novice bike to learn on/ go to pump tracks?

My budget isn't huge, and am just looking to get into the sport. Reminder, I am 30 and a novice. Will not be completing big jumps.

Thank you all for your help in advance!

I’m looking to get a second hand race bmx, but I’m confused on what size i should get ( I’m 18 years old). I’m torn between pro 2xl and pro 3xl. im relatively new to the sport. I found 5 bikes around the same pricepoint (500€). If anyone could help me choose the best one it would be very helpful.

1) dk professional xxx, full aluminium, and high end components.
2) inspyre pro xxl, full aluminium, disk brake and forward components
3) one xxl, relatively high components
4) meybo clipper pro 22
5) rift pro xxl, carbon fork

the components listed are all i could find in the secondhand description and the pictures.

They’re selling it for $650. It doesn’t specify any pieces and i don’t really know much about racing bmx since im just getting into it so i don’t know if that’s a good price for that bike

I recently won a new frame on a competition site so I swapped my parts over from my meybo clipper which only had a couple months worth of use. Perfectly timed for the arrival of a set of carbon wheels.

I'm running Tioga fastr tyres with a 1.85" front. If I commit to this tyre size I think I'll need to drop down a height in handlebars as there's a slight difference in stack height now.

The frame looks great. It's a really metallic paint so I've put some ppf type stuff on the "I think this is going to get scratched" areas.

Race numbers on - first novice race this Sunday.

Full spec:

Meybo holeshot 2026, pro xxl/22".

SD carbon fork.

SD steel bars, 8" rise.

SD pro cranks, 175mm arms with a meybo thread together, press fit BB.

Shimano mt401 brakes and a 120mm disc.

Akoy carbon wheelset, 30mm wide x 30mm deep.

Tioga fastr 1.85f/1.75r.

Box two seatpost.

Maybe I've missed it in my searching but when does the GC schedule usually get released? If it helps I am interested in the South Central schedule.

TIA!

Hi my son was a very accomplished 6YO novice in his first year of racing. After taking first at the state race and second in the gold cup he recently got his 10th win and had a birthday. The other night he race as a 7YO Inter and while he didn't come in last he was nowhere near winning. We were at a new track and the competition was definitely good, but he went from being great at gate starts to like 4th in the gate starts. He also seemed completely phased by how tight the riders were out of the gate. I came to the conclusion that novice is where you learn to RIDE (standing, pumping, gate starts), but inter is where you learn to RACE. I have three tracks nearby each with varying levels of competition. My plan is to keep him on the easier two tracks to build confidence and sprinkle in the tougher track to build experience. Any advice though on race tactics (berm lines, passing, etc) or where to find help would be appreciated.

Had a crash a few weeks ago and finally now looking over my bike.

Tuning it up, realized the brakes seemed weak when engaging the lever.

Saw this spring sticking out. Any idea how to fix this?

This is my fist race bike. Bought built as it is from a dude so I don’t know everything yet.

Brakes are shimano deore xt

It’s time to call out the clip pedal orthodoxy for what it actually is: a dangerous placebo backed by stationary lab metrics that completely fall apart on real dirt.

1. Ejection is a Safety Feature: The Biomechanical Reality of Crashing Locked-In

Ask anyone who raced in the late '80s, '90s, or early 2000s versus anyone walking a modern national pit today: the severity of modern crash injuries has shifted catastrophically.

When you blow a turn or case a double on flats, your body has an escape hatch—ejection. Separation from an 18-to-20-pound projectile is your primary defense mechanism against rotational joint trauma. The moment you lock your feet to the drivetrain with stiff-soled carbon shoes and mechanical cleats, that leverage works entirely against you:

• Torsional joint blowout: When you go over the bars or slide out, your feet don’t release instantly under violent off-axis loads. Instead, the bike becomes a 20-pound torque wrench acting directly on your knees, ankles, and tibia. Spiral fractures, high ankle syndesmosis ruptures, and shredded ACL/MCLs are standard fare now because riders crash with the bike tangled into their lower extremities.
• Compounded impact physics: Without the ability to blow off the pedals cleanly and roll, riders absorb primary blunt impact with their clavicles, shoulders, and heads because their legs are mechanically tied to a tumbling frame. Locking a rider to a bike during high-velocity directional changes isn't a safety feature; it's a liability.

2. Lab Ergometers vs. Real Dirt: The "Power Transfer" Myth

The entire clip argument relies on flawed, static lab studies conducted on stationary ergometers measuring theoretical anaerobic peak wattage and pull-up phase output.

• The Pull-Up Fallacy: Decades of exercise physiology research (such as Mornieux et al., Korff et al.) examining pedaling mechanics show that even elite cyclists do not effectively "pull up" on the backstroke under dynamic conditions; they merely unweight the pedal slightly.
• Static Dynos vs. Dynamic Tracks: A stationary Wattbike test where a rider spins to maximum theoretical cadences bears zero mechanical resemblance to sprinting out of a 20-inch gate on loose dirt. On a track, bike control is derived from weighting and unweighting through your joints, micro-adjusting foot angle for cornering g-forces, and letting the chassis float beneath you—not being rigid-bolted to the spindle.

3. Speeds, Jumps, and History: What Actually Changed?

The common narrative is that modern tracks require clips because riders go "so much faster" now. History and hard numbers dispute that:

• In the 1990s, radar testing (extensively documented by BMX Plus!) consistently logged pro platform riders hitting flat-ground sprint speeds of 35+ mph.
• Bunnyhop contests at pro events regularly saw riders clearing 36 to 40+ inches purely on flats, utilizing proper hip-hinge technique, bar sweep, and pedal traction—not cheating pop by pulling on mechanical cleats.
• Track design has evolved, but not because riders are fundamentally generating more dynamic velocity out of their legs. Modern tracks are essentially paved superhighways—hard-packed, slurry-coated, completely smoothed out, with asphalt berms and massive, uniform transition lip geometries. What changed is rolling resistance and rolling radius, not some mythical power upgrade unlocked solely by SPD cleats.

4. The Gravity Assist and Sprint Cadence Reality

Look at the math on an Olympic or SX-style start hill. Riders drop down an 8-meter ramp accelerating under massive gravity assist ($F = m \cdot g \cdot \sin\theta$).

Beyond the initial 3 to 5 power cranks where you are establishing baseline hookup against gate inertia, how much propulsive force are you actually adding to the rear wheel when you’re already screaming down an incline at terminal velocity? Spinning a high-cadence gear down a ramp with gravity doing 80% of the work is largely cadence matching to maintain engagement, not raw pedal-induced acceleration.

On a standard track, nobody is sustaining 180+ RPM efforts out of corners or down the rhythm section. Not withstanding if people were sustaing 180 rpm crank speeds, it isn;t the clips making that possible.You’re snapping 2 to 3 cranks, setting your pedals level, and pumping the backside of transitions. Pumping speed comes from momentum transfer through mass and timing—forces that platform pedals handle with absolute stability without welding your soles to the axles.

The Takeaway

Clips didn't save BMX; they homogenized technique, encouraged sloppy jumping mechanics masked by yanked cleats, and turned standard slide-outs into season-ending orthopedic reconstructions. Modern platform technology—concave thin-profile alloy bodies with hardened steel M4 traction pins paired with dedicated sticky rubber outsoles—delivers every ounce of necessary lateral and axial grip without turning a routine crash into a high-torque leg breaker. It's time to stop pretending clips are an absolute necessity for elite speed.

No doubt the dumbest thing the sport allows by far, right up there next to aluminum and carbon fiber frames and components, the issue isn't abstract we see the failures, the issue is the failure mode, steel bikes deform, and fail, slowly gracefully, carbon and aluminum do not.

The Materials Farce: Rigid Chassis Physics vs. "Borrowed" MTB Tech

The modern push toward carbon forks, carbon rims, and thin-wall aluminum cranksets on a race track completely ignores the fundamental physics of a rigid machine:

• The $\Delta t$ Illusion: Mountain bikes get away with carbon and lightweight alloy components because 160mm of tuned hydraulic suspension stretches the deceleration window ($\Delta t$). By damping the landing delta, suspension caps the peak instantaneous impact forces ($F = \frac{\Delta p}{\Delta t}$). A rigid 20-inch bike on rock-hard tires has zero dynamic damping. When you case a gap or drop out of the air onto a flat transition, that deceleration occurs in milliseconds, sending massive shock-load spikes straight through the front end and bottom bracket.
• Fatigue Limits and Invisible Damage: 4130 chromoly has a defined fatigue endurance limit and ductile yield behavior—it bends, twists, and warns you before it breaks. Aluminum has no fatigue limit; it accumulates irreversible micro-damage on every single gate snap and hard landing until it fractures. Carbon fiber brings high notch-sensitivity and internal delamination that no visual glance in the staging lanes will reveal.
• The Maintenance Dogma: Expecting racers—especially amateurs and working-class riders—to constantly coin-tap carbon layups, check torque specs on brittle clamp zones with a beam wrench, and retire expensive composite forks after a single tumble is pure industry theater.

Locking your ankles into the drivetrain with mechanical clips while straddling brittle, fatigue-limited structural materials on a zero-suspension chassis isn't high-performance evolution—it's an engineering mismatch that prioritizes marketing margins over rider survivability.

Rant off/

If the euro bottom bracket is tightened completely there is play in the crankset. Is it better to add BB shims or crank shims as shown? I’m pointing to the crank shims

I've been curious if I could get some "nicer" pedals for kids' bikes with less shin-eating sharp pins. I've taken a Race Face Chester and replaced the stock M3x0.5mm/10mm long machine screws with a 5mm screw and acorn nut. The original nuts have nylon in them, I put loctite on all the new screws. I haven't ridden on them but I'm happy with the result. I'm not sure if this is the outright best solution but for using pedals I already had around and a few dollars worth of new hardware from Amazon (enough to do SEVERAL pedals), I'm pretty happy with it.

Don't know how useful this is, partially I just wanted to see if it could be done and really I just wanted to show someone!

New/old pin comparison: https://imgur.com/6bEz7vQ

New pins 1: https://imgur.com/wLSYej3

New pins 2: https://imgur.com/M44tJbG