Hey all,

I recently bought a bike and I'm trying to get into it.
I find when I pull the brake levers there is too much travel.
I messed around with the screw pictured (which I shouldn't have) to see if it adjusted the reach.
My two questions are:
Have I screwed anything up by turning the screw pictured?
Where is the actual reach adjustment screw?

It's Shimano Cues if that helps.

I'd really appreciate any advice.

My dt swiss 350s are slipping. I have tried everything and they keep sliping, only under sharp increases of torque like a race start though. I only let them slip 5 times before i quit trying because i would prefer not to ruin them. Im using dt special grease, i lubed the sides of tbe rachet, no they're not conical springs. How do i fix this?

I haven’t driven mechanical bike since years (di2 instead), so I’m not 100% sure but something seems off with this shifter.
My initial thoughts:

Pretty sure a spring is too loose, missing or stuck.

Shifting with the small lever is somehow strange, there is too much “play”, nothing happens until you really push it to its end position.

Can anybody confirm both, and how I could potentially repair this?

It’s an Ultegra 6800 groupset, hydraulic brakes.

Hi i'm running this setup on my ebikes, works perfectly but i feel like the shimano chain is "rubbing" against the sram pulleys on the derailler, do you guys know which pulleys should i buy to fix this? thanks

Hi everyone,
I just installed a new alloy stem on my bike with an alloy steerer tube and wanted to double-check the fitment for safety.
With the stem pushed all the way down onto the spacers, there is approximately a 4.4mm gap between the top lip of the stem and the top of the steerer tube (measured precisely with a digital caliper).
Since both the stem and steerer are aluminum (alloy), is a 4.4mm gap acceptable for proper top cap preload and clamping safety? Or should I adjust the spacers?
I'd love to hear your thoughts and expert advice! Thanks in advance!

I’ve either never seen one of these before or have forgotten about it.

Older 80's Fiji S12 S LTD, trying to get the bars off but can't figure out which direction to spin this Allen bolt that sits on the inside of where the shifter lever sits. On one side the whole bolt/housing just spins, on the other side I have to apply serious torque and it's not bugding. Can't find anything online.

I've been having discharge issues with my 105 Di2 and was told that if you set the RD limit screws wrong the RD constantly pushes on them and this drains the battery.

I've now set the screws so that the RD sits by itself in the gear without hitting the screw barrier (adjusted so that it sat in gear then a little extra until the RD didn't move). Is this now "set correctly" and will it fix the discharge issue?

Thanks

How the hell do I slam the bars/stem on the Giant Advanced Revolt 2? Do I need weird spacers that go on top?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for the best practice regarding bolt prep across different bike components:

Brake Caliper Bolts: Opinions are mixed between greasing threads to prevent seizing (I’ve stripped threads running them dry before) vs. keeping them dry because of pre-applied threadlocker. Since calipers are readjusted sometimes , what’s the best approach?

Factory Prep (Shimano vs. SRAM): Both brands use different thread treatments (dry mechanical patches vs. liquid chemical threadlockers). How should these be handled during regular servicing?

Shifter / Brake Lever Clamps: Should clamp bolts be greased to prevent creaking/seizing, or do they need threadlocker?

What is the golden rule for prepping these different types of bolts?

I bought a 2016 Orbea with Ultegra Di2. It has the junction box under the stem and a seat post battery. It’s worked great since I got it.

Well then I discovered if I upgraded my battery, I’d be able to install firmware updates that would give me shift modes, etc.

So I bought the updated battery and the in-line Bluetooth module to be able to connect to my phone.

I installed those items today and got my phone connected, no problem. The Shimano app showed that all my components were up to date, but showed a firmware update for the BT unit I just installed.

I let that update run, but when I checked my phone after a bit it said “update failed” and my phone was disconnected from the bike. I also couldn’t get any lights on the junction box to turn on when I pressed the button, so I figured the battery died mid-update.

I removed the BT module from the system and just connected everything back like normal. I let it charge for a couple hours and the light on the charger went off, indicating the battery was full.

I still can’t get any lights to turn on on the junction box and the shifters do nothing. Like the system is dead. Attempted a reset by unplugging the battery for 10 mins. Still nothing after plugging back in.

I have no experience with these systems, I hope it’s not totally dead. Any advice?

Thanks!

The bike is canyon stoic 2 2022 i got it second hand and im suprised that such a new bike makes this noise

Hey people, essentially what it says in the title, sometimes, specially on harder gears my chain gets stuck between the chainring and the shield there.

Is easy to fix, I just hold the chain at the top of the chain ring and pedal a bit, and is back on the chain ring.. but what could be going wrong here? And how to I fix it

I’m looking to replace the 172.5 mm FSA Gossamer crankset on my Scott Plasma 30 with a 165 mm Shimano 105 or Tiagra crankset.
My current setup:
Crankset: FSA Gossamer MegaExo
Bottom bracket: FSA MegaExo BB-8000/6000
Chainrings: 50/34T
Drivetrain: Shimano 10-speed
Front derailleur: Shimano 105
From what I understand, both FSA MegaExo and Shimano Hollowtech II use nominally 24 mm spindles, but I’ve read that there can be differences in bearing dimensions and compatibility.
My questions:
Can I install Shimano Hollowtech II cranks directly into my existing FSA MegaExo BB-8000/6000?
Has anyone successfully done this combination without issues?
If they’re incompatible, would I need to replace the entire bottom bracket, or is there another solution?
I’m trying to keep costs down while switching to shorter cranks for a more comfortable aero position.
Thanks for any advice!

Thanks in advance !!

Unfortunatelty i bought a magura MT5 for my rockrider EXPL 500 to fit as the rear brake, but i discovered the caliper does not clear the triangle and that it cant be mounted correctly; hoping this helps others not make the same mistake as me especially while using Gemini/ChatGPT to try to find an answer to this question.

Using a 160/180/203mm adaptor still wont make the caliper clear the triangle

I have my bike on a trainer (wheels and tires are worn out, probably on the trainer until spring) and I hear this clicking sound when I pedal. It only happens when I’m on the bike. No sound when I spin with my hands. Is it a loose bolt? Or some other issue. It’s pretty annoying if this continues the whole winter.

Idk if the groove is large enough to be considered hooked but i guess it is

My Trek Domane AL5 Gen 4 has been making this squeaking noise when I pedal. If I'm coasting, it doesn't make the noise. Doesn't do it all the time, so it's been hard to pinpoint where it's coming from exactly. Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Replacing headset bearings on my 2022 Giant Propel Advanced Pro. In order to replace the bottom bearing I have to remove the hydraulic brake line. Do I have to cut the line or can I get it out of the fork with nut and olive in place?