I’ve always loved taillight covers and don’t really see any readily available for bugs, still working out the kinks, thinking of going to a design that doesn’t catcher the bolt holes and just sticks on with 3m tape for a cleaner set of lines, but still dig this shape too!

The car is parked since 2018 i was thinking to repair it ,

How much will i approximately pay? And is it worth it? "Repair costs in egypt are too expensive"

I have a 1970 dual circuit master cylinder, drums all around. I couldn't get the front brakes to bleed so I bench bled the master cylinder. I got a clean flow with no air bubbles from the front and rear lines, all 3 outlets. Now that I put the master cyl back in, it won't bleed. I am starting with the front right wheel, and nothing comes. When I crack open the front right outlet on the master cylinder and push the brake pedal, fluid barely dribbles out. When I crack open the connection between the metal line to the rubber flex line on the front left, I can hear air when pushing the brakes. What do I do? I am trying to avoid removing the mastery cylinder as it was a huge pain in the ass to get back in.

I have dual webbers, currently I have a rear decklid that has the wide 2 column, 4 row vents.

I’d like a ventless lid and put a standoff hinge.

Would this decrease or increase airflow for the carbs?

Thoughts please!

i got lucky again. driving on i-35 N and a guy tried to pass a semi truck on the right lane and didn’t see me. pit maneuvered me and i almost slid into the median but regained control. thank god for lowered suspension.

damage is mostly rear fender and deck lid. some frame damage around the wheel well and engine bay, but nothing a donor car wouldn’t solve. the engine was pretty much untouched aside from the valve cover and it still was able to drive another 20 miles to where i got it towed (thanks hagerty)

i made a post a while back about how inconsiderate drivers are and this is exhibit A. all it takes is one guy not paying attention to end countless hours of love and work and nearly taking my life with it.

i’m lucky to have regained control of my car and i’m even more lucky that i will once again be able to fix my beloved super beetle.

Belle, you are an absolute trooper.

Hello, a few weeks ago I noticed that only the passenger side bright light works and the blue light on the dash board doesn't work.

Any ideas as to the cause?

Anyone know or use a good no bs mechanic in southern Maine that can diagnose issues in my super beetle?

I’ve been trying to fix a no start issue for months and I surrender. 🏳️ any advice or help is appreciated

Like the guy who was asking about the wheels spinning when the trans is in neutral, I replaced my seals on my swing axle and when the motor is running the hubs are spinning backwards. ???? Also put in the undated throw out bearing assemble and new clutch and flywheel. ????

H8 guys. We're working on this 79 super beetle vert and we are having some trouble finding a transmission mount. Any suggestions?

Anyone know of where to get these? I think the part number is 311953071 but searching that doesn’t get you far, anybody know of any generic part numbers that fit or hacks that work? Every time you find one of these housings they’re missing a socket.

I got this car after my father in law passed away. The shifter was screwed on (rather than bolted in with the original bolt holes).

When I try to use the original bolt holes (which are about 0.5 inches forward of the screw holes), I can find neutral, reverse, 2nd and 4th, but not 1st or 3rd.

What gives??

For some reason that I am not aware of my dune buggy "backfires" when I speed up and go into 3rd & 4th gear. It's so bad I have to slow down to make it stop. Runs fine at low speeds and idle.

What do you think? Bad coil or air leak at carb?

(was made from a 1971 vw beetle)

Rust & Trust - Running Out of Autumn [019]

Digital art, Procreate.

Been having a few electrical gremlins with my ‘74 Super lately and figured maybe the alternator wasn’t putting out enough voltage… well, quite the opposite! Amazed I haven’t boiled my battery already…

Still new to the aircooled world but as best as I can tell, I believe I have an externally regulated Motorola alternator. The regulator that’s installed is an Echlin VR-503 with 3 wires going to it, plugged into an adapter, plugged into the 4-wire factory harness.

I don’t have the budget/time at the moment to install a new alt so converting to an internally regulated alt and re-wiring my setup accordingly isn’t an option.

1) Is this the correct voltage regulator for my setup?
2) Is there a different/better regulator available?
3) My idiot light comes on with the key then turns off as usual, but it doesn’t come on the rest of the time I’m driving - shouldn’t it be lighting up when it’s overcharging this much?

So my 1965 beetle came with a box of parts. I think it’s alternator parts. The car was converted to 12v. It’s a 1200 engine. Is this the right part?

The guy who built my '74 said they bought a turnkey 1776. Looks like they have stamped it with a delta-ish looking logo followed by the date. Anyone recognize the stamp?

Driver's latch is a bit pitted because the replacement latch was broken in 2 pieces... couldn't see it under the glass. Still better than aftermarket! #63beetle

Hi everyone, I could really use some help. My fuel gauge, vibrator, and sending unit are all new but the gauge stays on empty. I’ve touched the sending unit wire (sender end) to a ground and the gauge moves to full. I used a multimeter on the sending unit and the ohm readings seem good. I sanded corrosion off the top two mounting tabs, bolts and body underneath. I’ve also ran a separate ground wire from one of the sending unit mounting screws to a clean metal ground. None of this has done anything to make the gauge move. What am I missing, and what are some other things I can try?

Community, I need some help with my 71 beetle. I feel like I'm going in circles with troubleshooting.

In short: When accelerating, bug backfires when throttle is past 50 percent-ish. Seems like either too much gas at the point or not enough?

More info: This is a lot more common when shifting into 3rd but definitely 4th. If I do not baby the throttle into third, it'll back fire. If I get it into 4th it'll for sure back fire or if I baby the throttle, I lose speed.

Knowns: point gaps are @ .016.

Idle timing is checked at 7.5 BTDC

Fuel is spraying directly down the throat of the carb.

All jets seem clean. I have checked them multiple times.

Accelerator linkage is maxed for throttle response (if I'm saying that correctly)

I think that's all the information you all should need.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If you need more information, just let me know.

Thanks!

Hello I’m looking to replace the seals between the front windows. It’s the one the runs agains the window when cranking.

Got an October 1969 bug gauge with ATF. Removed extraneous pieces as I’m using it for decor.