Got the Arduino UNO Breakout Carrier for my UNO Q. Anyone else got it? How do you program the MPU pins? https://docs.arduino.cc/resources/datasheets/ASX00085-datasheet.pdf

This started with a pretty simple project: a sensor station with an ESP32, a display and GX12 connectors for the sensors. The electronics part was fun. The enclosure part was not. I really didn't feel like spending my evenings in CAD.

So I just asked Claude to make it. And honestly, it worked better than I expected. It wrote the enclosure as CadQuery code with cutouts for the display and the connectors.

The annoying part was everything around it. I had no simple way to look at the model, so every time I wanted a change I took a screenshot, scribbled on it, pasted it back into the chat, and waited for the next version. Over and over.

At some point I thought: this has real potential, but it has to be easier. So I started building a small viewer for myself. That small viewer turned into SOMA.

How it works now: you run your AI agent (Claude Code, Codex, Gemini CLI etc.) in the built-in terminal, it writes the model, and the app shows it in 3D right away. If something's off, you click on the part, measure it, or scribble directly on the 3D view and send that to the agent. No more screenshot ping-pong. You can also load an existing 3D model as reference, for example of your board, and let the agent build the enclosure around it. When it looks right, export as STL and print.

It got way bigger than planned along the way. There are now sliders for dimensions, overhang checks, version history and even FEM. As a stress test I designed a complete CNC mill with it, 118 parts.

It's free and open source (GPL), with builds for Windows, Mac and Linux. I've only really tested on Windows so far, so if you try it on Mac or Linux, let me know if it even starts.

GitHub: https://github.com/Kai-Jungsthoefel/SOMA

btw: my first opensource project :)

I hope this helps someone, that hates cad as much as i do.

I've tested this with an esp32, no touch wired. This is the link of the screen.https://amzn.eu/d/0eC8Pxu6

I'm using an esp32. Already tried rewiring

Has anyone come up with a nice compact ESP32 Bluetooth controller with two motor/servo channels. I’m looking for something like the Romeo Mini ESP32-C3 Robot Control Board
but I don’t like the price of that solution.

So, I’m looking for similar ideas but I’m guessing I will end up knocking something up on strip-board using transistors or some driver chip. I’m not sure how much space I have at the moment, I really should have measured it up before hand.

It’s for a BT controlled car, I picked up one of those cheap CMJ RC cars from a charity shop but it has no controller. I know I can buy one for like £5-10 but whats the fun in that. It also has the wheel alignment knob missing so I have to fix that too. I will be using my iphone to control it unless I can find a cheap original replacement controller for it(but there’s no fun in that either).

Hey everyone! Previously, I built a 5-servo robotic hand controlled via computer vision. Instead of modifying the old setup, I decided to build a completely new robotic hand from the ground up.

This new version steps up to 6 servo motors to get much more complete, fluid hand movement.

How it works:

• Real-time Tracking: Using Python, OpenCV, and MediaPipe on the laptop to track hand landmarks live.
• The Hardware: Wired up 6 servos acting as tendons to control the fingers and the extra axis of movement.
• The Test: Putting the new frame and wiring through its paces to check gesture mirroring and response time.

Still working on refining the code and handling power distribution for all 6 motors. Would love to hear your thoughts or any tips you have for multi-servo setups!

I jst got my arduino package today and i started playing with it, i really liked it and this was one of the things i did

made an arduino arm(4 DOF) using sg90s and controlling with a joystick

I wanted to try out BT comms on an ESP32 board and at long last I have it working to shift an active LED left and right on the strip using the Dabble app(gamepad) running on my iPhone.

Hey Folks, I don't share every post here but this month's video shows off some hardcore Arduino stuff that I thought may be valued here.

Thanks for everything this sub has taught me!
<salutes>

I have created a website for hard-iron and soft-iron calibration . All you need to do is collect the raw values from the magnetometer and save it to a csv file , upload to the site. It will process and give the code to fix the errors and give proper values

Is anyone using these in the wild? I’d love to hear thoughts, I’m looking at potentially adding one to see how it works on my farm. Luckily I’m small, so I can add the WiFi card and be good. Looking for any real world scenarios where these would work.

12 AS5600 encoders sit behind two TCA9548A I²C muxes, and two BNO085 IMUs track the hand and forearm. The Dynamixel bus is half-duplex through a 74HC241, so the Teensy talks to the servos itself, with no U2D2 and no PC in the loop. On the bench the servo loop runs at about 1 kHz, and everything logs at 100 Hz to the SD card.

Firmware, wiring diagram and both KiCad boards are open: github.com/molanocortes/takto-one. The Dynamixel driver has its own repo: github.com/molanocortes/dynamixel-on-device

I built it alone for my master’s thesis, so if it’s useful, a star helps other people find it.

Hello I just bought a starter Arduino kit and was wondering if I am able to control it using c# since I'm currently studying c# at school just started the basics would I be able to code on the elegoo mega with c# since I dont want to learn another language while I'm already struggling with one thanks

I’ve ended up with two ESP32 Muse gadget prototypes: a little one that fits in my hand, and a bigger one that looks very pleased with itself.

The bigger one blinks, has a few animated poses, and gets happy when I tap the screen. Getting a happy reaction out of it is apparently enough to distract me from building anything useful 😂

So now I have the character animation working, a touchscreen, and a fairly blank plan for what comes next.

I’ve thought about a focus buddy or something that reacts to room sensors. But I’m curious about ideas that actually benefit from being a physical object you can touch and leave somewhere.

What would you build around this? A small, slightly weird project involving a sensor, a button, or something on your desk would be especially welcome.

I’d like to pick one useful job for it and try building that next.

(Solved)

I know this is going to be a dumb fix, but for the life of me I cannot figure out why the LED is not coming on. I tried the LED both ways but still nothing. (220ohm resistor used)

const int slidepin = 2;

const int ledpin = 9;

int swstate = 0;

void setup()

{

pinMode(slidepin, INPUT);

pinMode(ledpin, OUTPUT);

Serial.begin(9600);

}

void loop(){

swstate = digitalRead(slidepin);

if(swstate == 0){

digitalWrite(ledpin, HIGH);

Serial.println("HIGH");

}

else{

digitalWrite(ledpin, LOW);

Serial.println("LOW");

}

delay(100);

}

Started to explore how it can be utilized in one of my projects. 👍🏻

I want to create a sort of timed locked safe using arduino/rasberry , python , and a led matrix to create a way to restrict access to hardware (PC/phone) until a specific time. I only know a bit of python but here's what i theorycrafted:

Step 1 : The user blindy scrambles a 4-digit mechanical padlock

Steo 2: A webcam scans the lock and take screenshots

Step 3: a python script use an ai api or an ocr app to recognize the code

Step 4: code text is sent through an usb cable an arduino chip and it is stored with a built in code that makes the code visible once a timer is finished

Step 5: The user puts their hardware inside the safe and locks it with the padlock, then scramble it again

Step 6: the code is revealed through the led matrix and the user can unlock the safe

So what i'm asking is, what kind of hardware should i use for this project?

I heard about Arduino Nano V3 CH340 presoldered or raspberry Pi Pico H

And for the matrix i heard about LED MAX7219 8x32

But i know nothing about hardware and im scared that my project is harder than in thought so that’s why i'm making this post, to know if it is doable, and if yes where to document myself and what to do

Thanks for reading !!

planning my first real project, esp32 + small screen + a couple servos, and the parts list is done but ordering it is way more annoying than i thought

aliexpress is cheap but 2-3 weeks and apparently some sensors are fakes, amazon is like 3x the price, and the case needs to be printed somewhere bc i dont have a printer. so right now its looking like 3 or 4 separate orders with separate shipping for one small project which feels dumb

how do you guys do it? one shop and live with it, split it up, or just buy kits? im in europe btw, shipping is sometimes more than the actual parts

and what do beginners always forget to order. pretty sure im gonna end up without screws or with the wrong connectors

i just got this board and it came with an arduino starter kit, i plugged it in but its not even detected by windows, no chimes, no device change in device manager and it doesnt show up on arduino ide. the lights do work tho as the green ON light is on and another orange L light is blinking (tht preloaded pin 13 led blinking thing ig). i do think that this is a clone board but it doesnt have tht ch340 where u want to get the drivers first, this have the ATmega 16u2 so drivers should be there with the stock ide but i did try getting them manually and it didnt help. the usb B cable is working cuz i checked it by plugging it into my keyboard and tht detected and even played sound (both ends of the usb is pluged completely in with the click sound) i really hope tht i can fix it easily, plz help

Hey guys!

I'm building a reaction game where you have to catch falling sticks using electromagnets controlled by an Arduino Uno. I've done some basic research on transistors, but I still have a few questions.

• When should I use a TIP120 transistor versus a MOSFET? What's the actual difference, and why do so many people recommend MOSFETs?
• How would I need to change my current wiring to use MOSFETs instead?
• Is there a better solution for switching the electromagnets in general?

I also ran into another issue: If I remove the LEDs from my circuit, Tinkercad warns me that the current drawn from the Arduino pins is too high, even when I significantly increase the resistor values. Why is that? I thought LEDs essentially behaved like resistors, but apparently, that's not quite right..

Tinkercad link: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9h8pbskkHt8-reacgame-v7?sharecode=mYeKz8fwfGdTTMQ_6mFZ0mBpfoyh3fpuB1tDFTfQg54

How the game works:

The vibration motors in the simulation are placeholders for the electromagnets. They're all switched on initially. When you press the button next to the white status LED, a sound indicator starts, and the Arduino randomly switches off one electromagnet at a time until they're all off. Once the sequence is complete, all electromagnets turn back on, and you can restart the game. The other button lets you select the difficulty level.

I have some basic knowledge of electrical engineering, but I'm primarily a mechanical engineering student looking to learn more about electronics. I'd appreciate any advice or explanations!

TL;DR: I'm building an Arduino-based reaction game with six electromagnets. Should I use TIP120s or MOSFETs, and how would I wire them? Also, why does Tinkercad report excessive current draw from the Arduino pins when I remove the LEDs, even with large resistors?