https://nvidianews.nvidia.com/news/volvo-cars-and-nvidia-expand-partnership-to-advance-safe-automated-driving

Been having a really rough time; constantly car offline. Infotainment system takes minutes to boot up; backup camera boots very slowly too

I was on 5.0.5; can't update to 5.2.16 constantly errors. Had the dealership look at it; they installed "5.3.13" !?!

Not a complaint or anything, but I could not find any info on this release; even Volvo officials show 5.2.16 was the latest, lol, will be keeping an eye out to see if this fixes my offline/slow boot issues

P.S. really have to say the software is pissing me so bad a few years into my ownership. I know it'd be bad, but holy, IT IS SO BAD, slow to start, slow to connect, Google Voice 50% of the time registers or understands, and I can list like 15+ more complaints

I’m in the process of buying a 2014 XC70 D5 AWD Summum (215 hp, automatic) with around 265k km (165k miles) on it.
It’s a pretty well-equipped example, looks to be in great condition, has a full Volvo service history and had the timing belt replaced at 180k km. Only two previous users, and according to the dealer it drives and shifts really smoothly.
I’m planning to keep it for another 5–6 years as our family car, so reliability is my main concern.
Does this sound like a sensible purchase? Anything in particular I should look out for at this mileage? I’d appreciate any advice!

寻找 XC90 sensus 全屏 CarPlay 的方法，是软件更新还是需要硬件支持呢

I have a 2019 XC60 T8 with about 102,200 miles on it. I bought it used back around 95k miles about a year ago.

A little while back I started hearing a whining noise from the rear electric drive area, along with a slight thump at low speed that seemed to follow wheel/motor rotation. I also had a Service High Voltage message.

I ended up taking it to a Volvo dealer immediately. They diagnosed the noise as coming from the ERAD and recommended replacing the ERAD transmission and bearing. The total quote is about $5,400 (50% parts 50% service approx).

The frustrating part is that the hybrid system warranty is 8 years/100,000 miles, so this happened only about 2,000 miles outside the mileage limit.

The dealer submitted a goodwill request to Volvo for me. Volvo denied it. The service advisor told me Volvo has apparently become pretty strict about goodwill if the vehicle is over 100k miles and the owner is not the original owner; this also isn't the same dealer that originally sold the car.

I also called Volvo Customer Care myself. They were able to see the dealer's goodwill request, but basically told me that once it has been denied through that channel, the denial tends to stick. I asked to escalate and they put me on hold and then came back and said it was still denied.

I understand that technically the car is outside the warranty, its just hard to swallow a $5,400 ERAD repair when the failure happened like immediately outside the warranty period; its sort of insane. Like, I seriously can't believe they wouldn't even cover a partial goodwill.

Has anyone here had a similar ERAD failure just outside warranty and actually gotten Volvo to help with the cost?

Is there another escalation channel beyond the normal dealer goodwill request?

At this point I am just trying to figure out whether there is any realistic path to partial assistance before I approve the repair. I just spent like $1500 i think getting the AC repaired from road damage to the condenser (wasn't considered a HV part I guess?).

I really thought such an expensive car would have better support from corporate. Looking for any help.

Happy 300.000 anniversary 🫎

First time I actually caught a nice number

Ordering motor oil for my SPA S60's next oil change, planning to DIY this change as I want to get an oil analysis done.

Looks like Castrol Euro Car, Motul, and Liqui Moly carry the VCC RBS0-2ae spec. Which one do you guys prefer or recommend?

My poor girl keeps getting beat up! My theory is that somebody tried to do a u-turn, thought they had me clear, and slowly crunched me. All 3 times I’ve been damaged, it’s been parked and unoccupied.

I think this thing is cursed, I can’t believe this keeps happening. Might be time to upgrade!

Thankfully insurance already deemed me not at fault. Out of curiosity has anybody else had to have their door repaired or replaced and know how much it’ll cost?

Hey all. This thread has been helpful over the past few years. Thanks.

Recently, my '05 V50 2.4 momentum broke down. One of the tensioners of the timing belt snapped off and it was the end of the engine. I love that car and looked at reviving it with a donor engine but costs quickly get out of hand here. Even worse that I had the belt replaced just a year ago. Just bad luck.

I am now in the market for a new car and I have two realistic options. Either I go have a look at a V50 from 2011 with 162k km's, or, my slight preference would be to upgrade to a V70 from '09 with 199k km's. Both cost around the same and both have the 2.0L Ford/Mazda i4 engine and a manual transmission.

I'm not doubting that the lower mileage is a smarter buy, but the V70 tickles me a little more. I guess what I'm asking if it is still worth it to invest in the V70 that has almost 200k. My old V50 broke down at 296k, but that was the 'indestructable' 5 cilinder engine. Are there more issues with the 2L in the V70 since it's heavier than the V50? Any things I need to keep in mind?

Thanks a lot!

I've driven many cars, NA and not, and my XC70 both impresses and worries me a little.

First thing is that the turbo is really loud, like it sounds like it's got a monster aftermarket one under the hood. It sounds healthy but at any rpm that's not idle I can hear it spooling like a power stroke tuned to roll coal non stop, I unfortunately have a rusted catalytic converter with a noticeable exhaust leak which I wonder if that contributes to it but I wanted others opinion on it (don't worry that's getting a new one welded in). When I get a chance I'm going to check for play in the turbine and actuator, but for now it's just brainstorming.

The other issue is that it feels really inconsistent when coming off idle, especially when it's warmed up at intersections. I'm pretty consistent with my throttle inputs and sometimes it feels like a normal car while other times it feels like I'm dumping the throttle and the car is trying to break the tires free when in reality I'm not. Is this just a combination of gearing/ecu/small turbo? Do these ever start in second gear for some reason? Any input helps, I want to know if this is normal and I'm just an idiot or if I need to look further. (I could very possibly be an idiot, but I like to think I'm consistently a good driver haha)

The only thing I messed with that directly affected the drivetrain so far was changing transmission fluid, otherwise no work I've done on it pertains to how it would respond on throttle (other things include timing/water pump, that cross member above the catalytic converter, oil and breather)

This V60 Momentum has this hideous dash, but has an oil temp gauge on the right?

My “top trim” inscription doesn’t get an oil temp gauge but the momentum does?

As you all know I bought this car knowing I’d need to service the pcv.

I had the PCV serviced by a local shop for a fairly affordable price.

I got it back and there was little to know change in the crankcase pressure, smoke was present and the glove test failed.

It was mixed feelings after this as I was worried maybe it was just a worn engine, not the case!

They took it back under warranty to deeper dive into their compression test that originally passed, and to do a leak down.

I guess something was off in the pcv install because they fixed it now and the engine has negative pressure now!!!
No more smoking and I almost lose a glove by the suction in the engine.

I’m sooooo stoked now to have this car because it truly is a healthy engine and now I know what a true beauty I’m able to drive.

Thanks everyone for reading this, and departing your knowledge on me during this process.

This is my favorite Volvo ever now, and I’m going to take care of it and hopefu

I’m in the midst of shopping for a used CPO 2023 C40, and came across one that checks just about all of the boxes. It would be my first EV. I’d be coming from a ‘22 GLC (premium gas no more, please). It has about 35k miles on it, was a leased vehicle, and the battery health report came back at 93.7%. It’s got 2 years of unlimited mileage warranty plus the standard battery warranty. It just got new tires as well. Is that an acceptable battery percentage for the mileage? I had been looking for MY24 RWD for the bigger range, but the ultimate trim we’re looking for has been hard to come find. Is the 226 miles of range on the ‘23 not a worry if I can charge at home? I appreciate any advice!

Hi all, looking at buying my next car and am pretty much set on a V40 or possibly a V60 depending on availability.

Specifically I’ve been looking at a range of D2 V40s.
(2016+)

My question is, how do the different engines (D2/3/4/5 , T2/3/4/5) stack up against each other in terms of reliability, economy and could a petrol be worth considering given my requirements.

I will be doing a lot of miles (25k annually mainly all motorway miles) and have a budget of around 7k while also needing the car to be ULEZ compliant. So naturally the D2 was the first option, though with the rising cost of diesel I’m wondering if petrol could be an alternative.

Any input is appreciated 🫶

I was replacing my pcv diaphragm and when i was trying to get the cap back on i thought i heard a snap and when i looked this metal sleeve that goes in the middle of the diaphragm starting moving in and out, please tell me its okay and its not that important. it doesn't sound like any plastic is moving inside the diaphragm or anything. i put some jb weld on it but im not sure if its going to bond to the metal

I am on my 2nd visit to dealership to address dashboard lighting up showing abs not working, tire pressure, parking brake disabled, check engine light. The first time i took it in they said they could not recreate, and reset whatever. 4 days later, dash is all lit up and the bottom portion has condensation or water on the inside of the windshield. i am so worried i have a clunker. i have only had the car since May. any ideas?

This is a new one. Just finished a road trip (that’s why the bumper is dirty). Looked at my bumper and one of the rubber seals is coming out. 10k on the clock, so it will be replaced under warranty. Has anyone else had experience with this? 2026 xc 60.