I posted the prep and heat pics awhile back so I thought I would share the finished pictures. Really difficult project that came out clean AF

This is the main back wall all set.

Hello all. I’m looking for some advice for our very specific situation.

Our #1 choice for new tile in our shower is a glass tile. My question is about how easily it would crack when sort of “stabbed” with various types of sticks. Haha, yeah. So some context maybe?

We have a 7yo son who is severely autistic. One of his stims is “sticks”. Think either wood dowels about the size of chopsticks or acrylic sticks about half that size. He spends most of the time with them poking them into kinetic sand and a handful of other sensory type things.

But when he gets heavily dis-regulated, it’s a constant struggle to keep him from pounding the walls, including the shower enclosure, with them. The drywall and plaster in our house is pitted in many places. So, worst case scenario would be 3-4 chopstick size dowels in his fist as he’s “stabbing” the tile repeatedly like he’s Chucky. Obviously when we hear it, we come running to stop it. But it’s gonna happen. Our old shower was ceramic tile and he never cracked anything.

Any thoughts or knowledge as to whether glass tile will fare as well? Or will it crack more easily under those conditions? Do we need to stick with ceramic?

Weird question, I know. Thanks in advance to anyone offering advice. You are much appreciated.

I couldn't come up with a better title but maybe I will be able to clarify why and what advise I'm after.

I have a 5 x 15 foot unfinished area of my basement that I want to convert into a sort of greenhouse for tropical plants. Think grow room but lots of humidity and standing water. I've designed a floating ceiling that will have three tempered glass panels, ventilation duct holes that will vent outside from both inside the room and above the floating ceiling.

2 of the four walls are cement block and part of the home structure. ​2 are currently drywall that I plan to replace with cement board. Ill do a shower curb under where I plan to install a hurricane door (the access to this room is about 5 feet wide and 5 feet in from the right side of the 15 foot wall.

My big questions:

Should I use a plastic liner over the cement floor, kurdi type membrane, or something else?

How should I address the joints between the cement board and slab floor? I was thinking kurdi corner membranes then the same over the slab. Would a plastic liner with thin set and tile over it be the most likely to hold water and keep the slab dry permanently?

Im definitely not hoping for a product warranty.

I may be able to tie a drain into the shower drain in the adjacent guest bath or the drain behind the utility sink in the adjacent utility room. Utility and guest bath share space under the bath for a drain. With access from under the utility sink permanently and temporary access after I tear down the drywall before installing the cement board.

Despite this potential drainage option, I do expect standing water at times and I wasnt planning on sloping the floor to tie the room into the mentioned neighboring drains. I figure when standing water builds up, like after watering, I can push the water to the drain with a squeeggee type push tool.

Last question. Is this a really bad idea? If not, or not so bad, do you have recommendations on how to do it better? If its a horribly bad idea, please tell me why so I can put this to bed. If you were to take on a project like this how would you do it?

Ill add a couple more details. I plan to have constant air flow by way of multiple fans. Ill have intermittent misting and fogging, but I'll also hand water from a pump to hose coming from a reservoir inside the room. At least once a day Ill program exhausting the room outside the house and can have it automated to exhaust when the humidity gets about 90%. Above the floating ceiling Ill have three large-ish led grow lights suspended above 3- 4x4 tempered glass. Above the floating ceiling Ill have a duct fan turn on when temps get about 85-ish pullingair deomnthe house ane not the grow spac. I will also, likely be hooking up an ac unit to the room. The air exchange ports for that would have to be in the adjacent bonus room with an exhaust duct and condensate drain running across that room exhausting ouside.

Im a total novice, at best, but would like to get rid of my two grow tents in that room and really he able to get in the room and treat it like a greenhouse. As is I'm using aqua lifter pumps every other week to drain the waterproof pans in the weed tents and have had some minor flooding when over watering caused water to go behind the waterproof pans.

Thanks for any advise, pointers, opinions, and criticism. Like I said I know nothing but want to make this work if it can.

First timing tiling, pictures are just after grouting so its still a bit dirty. Opinions and feedback on what you would do different?

Hi everyone!

We run a family-owned tiles and sanitaryware retail business in Kerala. We source most of our tiles from Gujarat through freight and own our showroom and two warehouses. Our team consists of 6 sales staff, 1 accountant, 1 billing staff, 1 cashier, and 1 manager.
I want to increase sales, attract more customers, and grow the business.

What are some practical strategies to:
• Increase walk-in customers and sales?
• Build relationships with contractors, builders, and architects?
• Improve employee productivity?
• Use digital marketing to generate actual sales?

If you were in my position, what would you do to grow the business over the next 6 months?

Need suggestions on best way to approach this inset wall. it’s 5.5” in from the wood flooring and i’m using 12x24 rectified tile.

i have read 33% staggered is preferred and im going with 1/8 grout spacing.

what length should the 1/3” piece be? if i keep it at approx 8”, then the 1/3 piece is 8-5.5=2.5” along the wall. is this the proper approach, or am i taking the 1/3 too literally? thanks!

edit- i know i have to cut the tile to L shape. it’s just there as place holder for now. i’m referring to the tile that would be immediately left of it

Hey guys.

Edit. Which bolt holes in the flange are best. The 2 straight notches or the 2 curved grooves?

I am hearing different things from my contractor and the guy on the plumbing isle at home depot.

My contractor, who i fell like is just covering his abs his tile guys ass, says that the flange is okay with the finished height above the tile. See the picture.

The guy at home depot said that the top of flange should be flush with the finished floor or even lower.

These are complete opposites.

Who's right?

I feel like my contractor just doesn't want to pull and re-cut a tile. The flange isn't glued in yet.

Our old tub and shower tile was replaced. I noticed that all of the grout line and joint (guess at terms) are already cracked after installation. Contractor says tubs are meant to “flex” and it’s normal for it to “settle” and crack. They recommended clear roof sealant around it. Is that normal or was this just a bad tile job? I had mentioned several times my concern about water getting through any areas around the tub with small kids. Yes, the is waterproof backer board around the tub, but not the entire back wall where there isn’t tile.

Last 2 pictures for before/after to show similar sized tub was replaced and footprint was not changed.

In the middle of a bathroom renovation and contractor just grouted the shower floor tile. On one edge, the tiles just stop because I guess the wall is uneven. Boyfriend thinks I’m being unreasonable but certainly there was a way for them to plan around this and make it less noticeable? Also they took this shower down to the studs so wasn’t it their job to make sure it’s straight? The other end of the shower is fine. Ugh - please tell me if this would be acceptable work to you. I am waiting to hear back from our contractor on this, but I sent him photos.

I need some suggestions on cleaning out grout in the recessed decorative grooves in these tiles.

PICTURE FEATURED IS EXTRA LOOSE TILE

I was grouting a niche in a shower and didn’t want to disturb the grout around it too much so I let it set and wiped it down carefully and got a good amount of grout out but I had to leave the job and couldn’t finish cleaning the tiles. What would be a good option for cleaning it out the next day? I’m sure either way it won’t be fun.

I’ve used peel and stick tile to cover my ugly bathroom tile. I’ve done this for the first time and I’m fairly proud of it, but there are some gaps due to cuts that I cannot change now. How can I seal these gaps ? Can I use silicone or grout ?

Hey guys. Our house has shifted significantly over the past couple of months and I noticed that all the grout in my tiled shower has cracked where the floor meets the walls and in a couple other spots. Pics attached. We have stopped using the shower at this point. I’m concerned about mold. How do I know if this is something I can determine and fix myself or not?

I’m DIY’ing a glue down lvp floor and 5”x5” tile fireplace hearth. The tile is 10mm and the lvp is 3mm. The hearth is just for show; no one will be sitting on it or likely nothing will be placed on it either, but I still want it to look decent and it seems like the best transition between floors is the schluter reno u. The only Reno u strips I can get right now is the 3/8” (same thickness as the tile) as i can’t wait a week for the 1/2” to get delivered. I know the schluter should be slightly thicker than the tile to accommodate the thin set. Will it be that noticeable having the tile stick up past the schluter if I use the 3/8”? Since it’s just a fireplace hearth, can I cheat a little and not use as much thin set near the schluter so the tile sits closer to even with the trim? The only two colors are the nickel and darker brown/bronze color. I’m thinking the darker brown looks best and might hide any height difference the best with a dark charcoal/black grout? Thoughts?

Also, has anyone used the schluter TSM grinder blade to cut the aluminum schluter? Can I cut a mitre with it or just use a chop saw? Thanks!

Hello all,

Im having my shower/tub redone as a walk in shower and have run into an issue.

Long story short, I had to return the polished/glossy tile and now need to get a new one. The place I’m looking to buy from has a lot of nice matte porcelain 12x24 tile patterns that I like.

My installer has warned me twice now not to get the matte because he says it’s more porous and could lead to leak/mold problems?

I can’t find anything online to that effect so I thought I’d ask here for people’s personal experience. Maybe he’s thinking of stone?

Thanks for any help

Contractor did a horrible ass job and left a lot of grout residue on my marble mosaic shower floor. It’s been several months, so the grout has hardened and feels gritty.

What’s the best way to clean this up without damaging the marble? Any products or methods you’d recommend?

I’ve always wanted to take on a small project, and with my trusted tile guy having moved out of state, now seems like the right time to DIY a 6x3 hallway closet.

The floor is a concrete slab. It’s smooth except for some rough patches around the radiant floor pipes. There are doors, so if I mess it up too bad, I can always shut them and never look at it again…

Should I just leave a small slab area around the pipes? I’m not sure I’m adept enough to manage those cuts.

Do I need to pull up the baseboards? I’d rather not.

Can I apply tiles directly on the slab?

The tiles will be slightly lower than the door track.

Any recommendations?

Am I the only one who thinks this product is stupid?

Don't get me wrong, I was happy when Schluter announced the Vario. I liked the idea of using it in large showers where the drain isn't centred, especially with its sleek, narrow design. But the fact that the drain body itself has no slope makes absolutely no sense to me. If you install it according to the instructions, water pools inside the drain. Kerdi underneath isn't sloped as well, so if there is a leak, water will stay there. It really doesn't make any sense. Linear drains are already messy enough, but this one is by far the worst I've worked with.

Is there a similar product to the Vario that doesn't have this problem? Because I'm definitely not buying this one again. I generally like Schluter products, but come on, guys!

Just wondering for people who have done DIY projects before.. is it worth it to try and diy to save on costs or do you wish that you had hired someone? We have this ratty bathroom that really needs some new flooring, the linoleum is old, peeling and can’t look any cleaner even with mopping! I’m wondering because it does seem like there’s quite a few nooks and crannies to get into. I haven’t done anything flooring related at all before, but do have some experience with cutting things as I do stained glass/mosaic work as a hobby (but am not even sure if that would translate to a project like this).

Thanks in advance!

We recently purchased a home and had a pony wall removed. We are left with an area that we are trying to patch in some tile. The plan is to eventually replace all of the flooring but we have little kids and need to take care of things as is.

The home was built in 2006. Cabinets, countertops, etc were from Home Depot. We suspect the tile may have came from there as well. Tile is 12x12.

I had a bedroom fireplace surround tiled, and after taking out the mantle the tiled added cement board to even the wall. This left about an inch around the fireplace that my contractor grouted. I'm looking for suggestions on how I can fill that space.

I have three main places in my shower where the grout has cracked. One is around the window in the shower where the grout is almost completely missing except along the top of the window. The second is on a built in seat at the top and bottom corners of the tile on the seat. The third is where the wall tile meets the floor tile. How do I fix these problems and do I use grout or silicone for each different place where the grout is cracking/missing? See photos for reference. Thanks!