Holy shit it can fly.

most relaxing traffic stop ever. was in chill mode and knew I didn’t do a thing wrong heck my car was driving. wasn’t playing on my phone either. turns out the cop could not see my temporary tag/plate in my rearview windshield. It was just trying to get dusk out the time of day made it hard.

She was super friendly apologized that it was so hard to see it. I said no problem. But the pure chill feeling knowing you were not speeding or doing anything crazy even accidently was amazing.

I gotta say, not only do I love the Halloween mode, but I am most definitely going to engage it more throughout the year! I didn’t even know you could touch the screen in different parts and make it do things. People turn into skeletons. There’s more for you to find out.

The trick or treat mode is awesome, too! Now I don’t need to set a light show every few minutes when I am handing out candy. My kids were dancing near the front of the car when I took this picture.

Awesome update!!

Pulled the trigger yesterday and I’m super excited and I can’t wait to use FSD for my commute to work! First few items I plan to get:

1. Spigen OneTap | Screen Mount (Mag Fit) or should I get
   MagBak Phone Mount And Charger?

2. 15% Llumar FormulaOne Pinnacle tint all around

3. All floor mats (maybe 3W?)

Suspension will still be crap though

https://x.com/sawyermerritt/status/2110901817441948006?s=46

he told me today if he can find good enough rates, he wants to trade in his truck for his own model Y.

I never thought I would see that day ever!!! as of a few weeks ago he was going to hold out for a cyber truck “someday” as of two weeks ago when I got my model Y and I thought that was huge.

and now he just said “ I don’t need a cyber truck or a truck I want my own model y too. These cars are just so amazing. I just want my own. “

🤯 another convert y’all!!!

Stek dyno purple PPF.

And before any comments, this wasn't some sort of 'investment' I did it because I wanted a purple car, and it looked amazing. Was 100% to make me smile every time I drive it...or it drives me... :D

24' MYP on Lightweight Forged Wheels. MPP Front/Rear Camber Arms, Coilovers.

Delivered Oct 15

Model Y Premium AWD in Quicksilver
Ordered Sept 22
Received VIN and scheduled delivery on Oct 8
Texas

FSD’d 90% home. It’s pretty neat. Love the adaptive high beams. My commute goes through a national forest where deer and hogs just spawn out of nowhere. Being able to still see all the trees on the side while passing an oncoming vehicle is so reassuring.

Front and rockers PPF and tinting getting installed tomorrow morning. I live off a dirt/rocky road.

2023 Tesla Model Y HW4 – Aftermarket Trailer Wiring Guide (4-Pin CURT #59236)

Hey everyone!

I recently installed trailer wiring for an aftermarket hitch on my 2023 Tesla Model Y Performance with Hardware 4 (HW4/AI4).

I ran into a few challenges that weren’t covered in the installation guides I found online, so I wanted to share what I learned, including the differences between HW3 and HW4, the available wiring options, and the exact wiring connections I used.

Hopefully this saves someone else a LOT of time!
The Problem: Tesla Changed the Factory Trailer Wiring Connector

When Tesla transitioned from Hardware 3 (HW3/AI3) to Hardware 4 (HW4/AI4), they also changed the factory trailer wiring connection.

2021–2023 Model Y vehicles with HW3/AI3:
These vehicles use a 16-pin Molex connector. Several aftermarket trailer wiring kits plug directly into this connector, making installation essentially plug-and-play without needing to cut or splice into the vehicle’s wiring.

2023 and newer Model Y vehicles with HW4/AI4:
These vehicles use a completely different 9-pin Molex connector. Unfortunately, the plug-and-play aftermarket wiring kits designed for the older 16-pin connector are no longer compatible.

Why the New 9-Pin Connector Is Different
Unlike the older 16-pin connector, the new 9-pin connector is designed to communicate with a dedicated Trailer Electronic Control Unit (ECU).

The ECU (Tesla part #1764896) is essentially a separate computer that interprets signals from the vehicle and controls the trailer lighting functions.

Importantly, the trailer ECU is NOT already installed on vehicles that didn’t come with Tesla’s factory tow package. Even though the 9-pin connector is present, you must purchase the ECU separately.
The factory setup uses:

9-pin Molex connector: Already present in the vehicle’s factory wiring.

Trailer ECU (part #1764896): A separate computer that must be purchased and installed.

Jumper harness (part #2534249): Connects the ECU to the 7-pin trailer socket.

7-pin trailer socket: Provides the physical trailer connection.

Interestingly, the trailer ECU and connector are shared across the Model S, X, and Y.

The ECU also requires software configuration through Tesla Toolbox to activate the appropriate towing functionality.

The important takeaway: Unlike the older HW3 connector, the HW4 9-pin connector carries communication signals rather than individual trailer lighting outputs. You cannot simply connect an aftermarket 4-pin or 7-pin trailer plug directly to it.

Your Two Options for Adding Trailer Wiring

Option 1: Install the Factory Tesla Trailer Wiring Components

You can purchase the factory trailer ECU, jumper harness, 7-pin socket, and any other necessary components, then use Tesla Toolbox software to configure the ECU and enable Tow Mode.
I considered this approach, but the cost of the additional components and software made it difficult to justify going with an aftermarket hitch in the first place.
Additionally, installing a trailer brake controller would still require an aftermarket solution using the wiring near the driver’s-side A-pillar.

Since I don’t plan on towing anything requiring trailer brakes, this wasn’t necessary for my setup.

Option 2: Install a Universal Taillight Converter (What I Did)

I went with the CURT #59236 universal taillight converter, which taps into the vehicle’s existing taillight wiring to provide a standard 4-pin trailer connection.
This kit was readily available, and my local U-Haul even had one behind the counter for same-day pickup.
I recommend using a converter specifically designed to support pulse-width modulated (PWM) lighting, since Tesla’s taillights use PWM signals and don’t have separate wires for every lighting function.
The CURT #59236 is PWM-compatible.

Another option is the Tekonsha #118845, although it’s more expensive.

CURT #59236 Installation Guide

These instructions apply to my 2023 Model Y Performance with HW4, using the taillight connectors with four wires: Gray, Black, Red, and Yellow.

1. Converter Placement
I installed the CURT converter inside the rear cabin, securing it behind the interior trim panel near the side storage cubbies. This keeps the module protected inside the vehicle rather than exposed to the elements.

2. Routing the 4-Pin Trailer Cable
For the 4-pin trailer cable, I used the existing rubber grommet that Tesla uses for the OEM trailer wiring.
I’ve seen several installation videos recommending routing the cable through the rear cabin pressure-relief flaps.

I specifically avoided doing this because routing a cable through those flaps would leave them partially open.
Using the factory wiring grommet provided a much cleaner installation.

3. IMPORTANT: Use Smaller Quick-Splice Connectors
This was one of the biggest headaches during my installation.

The CURT #59236 kit includes 18–14 AWG quick-splice connectors, but these didn’t cut deeply enough into the Tesla’s thin taillight wires to establish a reliable electrical connection.

I eventually switched to 18–22 AWG quick-splice connectors, which successfully picked up the signals.
If you’re doing this installation, I’d recommend having the smaller connectors ready before starting.
It would have saved me a considerable amount of troubleshooting!

4. Taillight Wiring Color Codes
Here are the exact connections that worked on my 2023 Model Y Performance with HW4.

Driver-Side Taillight
CURT Wire - Tesla Taillight Wire
Yellow Curt - Red Tesla
Brown Curt - Yellow Tesla
Red Curt - Gray Tesla

Passenger-Side Taillight
CURT Wire - Tesla Taillight Wire
Green Curt - Red Tesla

These connections worked with the four-wire taillight connectors on my vehicle.

5. Connecting the CURT Power Wire (Black)
Rather than running a new power wire all the way to the front of the vehicle, I used the existing power wire for the factory trailer wiring.

Here’s where to find it:
On the driver’s side of the rear trunk, near the floor, you’ll see the factory trailer wiring harness running back into the vehicle body.
Look for the large-diameter red wire associated with the OEM trailer hookup.

It’s noticeably thicker than the surrounding wires and sticks out like a sore thumb.

I cut this wire and connected the black power wire from the CURT converter directly to it.
This allowed me to use the existing factory wiring rather than running a separate power cable through the vehicle.

6. Connecting the CURT Ground Wire (White)
For the ground connection, I used an existing grounding screw located below the taillight.
I attached the white CURT ground wire to this location.
No additional grounding point was necessary.

7. Final Connections and Testing
Once everything was connected, I had a functioning 4-pin trailer wiring setup without purchasing Tesla’s trailer ECU or using Toolbox software.

Before towing, test the trailer connector to confirm that the running lights, brake lights, and both turn signals operate correctly.

Also ensure that the wiring is secured away from moving parts, sharp edges, and moisture.

Final Thoughts
If you have an HW4 Model Y and are installing an aftermarket hitch, don’t waste time trying to find a plug-and-play adapter for the factory 9-pin connector.
The newer connector works differently from the 16-pin connector found on HW3 vehicles.

For anyone who only needs a basic 4-pin trailer connection, the CURT #59236 offers a practical alternative without having to purchase and configure the factory trailer ECU.

My biggest recommendations:
Verify whether your Model Y has HW3 or HW4 before purchasing a wiring kit, especially if you have a 2023 model.

Don’t attempt to wire a trailer plug directly to the HW4 factory 9-pin connector.

Use a PWM-compatible taillight converter, such as the CURT #59236.

Have 18–22 AWG quick-splice connectors ready. The ones included with the kit didn’t work reliably on my taillight wiring.

Route the 4-pin trailer cable through the OEM wiring grommet instead of the cabin pressure-relief flaps.
If using the existing factory trailer power wire, verify its electrical capacity and circuit protection before connecting the converter.

Hopefully this helps someone else avoid the hours of research and troubleshooting I went through!
If anyone has questions about the installation, wiring connections, or where to find the factory harness, feel free to ask. Happy to help!

Decided to move down to an 18” wheel from Martian with a 245/55r18 tire. Not many options in that size but these BFG’s are XL load rated and super smooth 😮‍💨

I was one of those people who despised EVs for whatever reason. I was foolish, ignorant and just plain hard headed. Now I see the light, the potential and the paradigm shift in how we view transportation in this country. ( USA, and globally)

One test drive was enough. The ease of making the appointment, the no hassle interactions with the representatives, how patient the advisor was with no pressure whatsoever to buy, a marked contrast from my years of interactions with dealers and the sharks that are infested in those God awful places. The FSD is truly a game changer. I was floored of how smooth and "human like" the driving was. There were times my butthole clenched up during the test drive not fully trusting the car, but after 20 minutes and seeing how it was effortlessly and smoothly it was going about its business, made me a believer. This is, literally, having a clean record chauffeur driving you around. Holy shiet. Ordering such a large purchase on a mobile phone still makes me baffled.

I just placed my very first EV, a MY Premium, and my very first brand new car. I'm excited, anxious, nervous and hopeful, all at the same time. And I'm happy to join this community of people who are knowledgeable, funny and resourceful. I hope i can contribute to this place over the years. There is a bit of wait but I'm hopeful. I'm glad to be here. And my phone battery is charged.

model y standard “dual motor”😭
the badge isn’t even placed right
annoyed me a little to much i guess, is it just me?

It seems like a lot of the options on any site or aliexpress, where most of these come from anyways, are using some new color variants. Earlier in the year there seemed to be more toned down silver color than the current options.

If you bought some many months back does that change seem to be true? If so and you aren't using or switched I am willing to buy! I like the look of the darker silver but just can't seem to find them except for the brighter silver version.

My Model Y Juniper is only 2 weeks old and a few days ago it started making a noticeable buzzing/whirring noise from the temperature sensor area.

It sounds like a small fan spinning, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't making this noise when the car was new. I've checked it carefully and the noise is definitely coming from the fan around the interior temperature sensor.

Has anyone else had this happen? Did you manage to fix it somehow, or did Tesla have to replace the fan/sensor?

Just wondering if there's something simple I can try before booking a service appointment.

Hi everyone,
I’ve noticed that the outer black protective jacket on my Tesla home charger cable has started separating from the charging handle, exposing the colored wires underneath (see attached photo).
The charger has been working fine, but I’m concerned about whether this could become a safety issue.
I wanted to check if anyone else has experienced something similar.

A few questions:

Is this a common issue with Tesla Wall Connectors?

Has anyone successfully repaired this, or does the entire cable/charger need to be replaced?

Has anyone contacted Tesla about this? Did they offer a warranty replacement or another solution?

Is replacing just the charging cable an option, rather than purchasing an entirely new Wall Connector?

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who has dealt with this, especially what Tesla recommended and how much the repair or replacement cost.

Ordered on 10/10 Y premium AWD white interior. Miami, FL.

Starting a new job with a long commute into downtown Miami. So excited for FSD!

The reason popup after taking over from FSD is annoying. I end up tapping random options just to dismiss it—not giving accurate feedback.

Please let us disable the automatic prompt while keeping voluntary reporting available. I don’t know how Tesla uses these answers, but meaningless selections could add noise instead of helping improve FSD.

Anyone else doing this? Would you use an opt-out?

I can’t decide between the 2026 Tesla Model Y Premium RWD or AWD, or White vs. Quicksilver!
I live in Georgia, so snow isn’t a big concern. Does anyone know if AWD increases insurance rates significantly? Is AWD worth the extra cost? Planning to keep it for 5+ years. Any advice is appreciated!

2021 Model Y owner, and the original low-voltage battery just started its failure process. Trying to get the car fixed ASAP, mobile service isn’t available in my area and local service locations aren’t offering convenient times.

I had AutoZone special order an EV-compatible Duralast battery to replace it myself, but I’ve heard that many have had trouble with compatibility for anything that isn’t the Hankook, Tesla-installed units.

Has anyone been able to get a non-Hankook battery to work as a DIY fix?

lease is ending this december and vehicle currently at 32k miles, buyout quote estimate from santander is about $27,000; Considering that I would need to do title and Registration Fees? based in socal so say 10% then probably 30k out the door cost? is that okay deal?

I have to say the Tesla CPO buying process is unrivaled. The fact that I didn't have to wait 6hrs at the dealership so the finance manager could wear me down before finding six ways from Sunday to screw me, is refreshing. Pickup took less than a minute.

That said, I'm a bit torn. I'm really happy about being able to go places with as little drama as possible in quiet and comfort. I find myself no longer hesitant to take 1hr trips across town.

The Y is quick. But.... I just can't find myself getting excited about it as a car.

I'm a bit of a car guy, and I find it just so.... Boring. Which is not necessarily a bad thing. It's a little porky, and the steering lacks feedback. I find myself super hesitant in exploring the limits of its handling.

Would I be happier with a new juniper model instead? I was considering a used S Plaid but they are hard to find with HW4 and cost a bit more.

It solves 9/10 of the equation, which means it can't be my only car. I guess it's time to get a GT4 for the weekends.