Hi everyone! I drive a 2021 Forester Premium with 67K miles. I was changing out rotors and pads and noticed the bushings have been deteriorated somewhat. If you zoom in on the left side you can see some larger damage. Both the left and right bushings are like this.
I do not have any symptoms besides uneven tire wear and the visual appearance of the bushing. Two of my tires have significantly more tire wear on the inner inch of the flat part of the tire whereas the rest of the tire looks healthy. But it has also been 30k miles since I have had a wheel alignment done, so it could just be that.
2016 Forester - I have the usual oil weep from the bottom left and right corners of this interesting design by subaru that relied on RTV sealant. I'm fine topping off oil every few thousand miles or so, but the passenger side is dripping onto the connector to the primary oxygen sensor. Has anyone found a way to protect this sensor/connector from the oil to reduce the risk of it failing?
Does anyone recognize this sound? (My husband opens the window around 30 seconds, so ignore that sound). We began hearing it in July, took it into a shop (non-Subaru dealer)at that point
they replaced the CV axle. It didn’t fix the issue. It is an intermittent issue and disappeared for a while, showing up only occasionally. But it has begun to happen more frequently. We are on the verge of winter where I am in Canada, so want to get it sorted out before the possibility of being stranded in frigid temperatures.
Here are some possible correlations we have noticed: it seems to happen pretty consistently after driving at high speeds and then slowing down to city speeds. There might be a relationship to damp weather. Also, if I brake while it is happening the sound stops immediately, it usually resumes as we keep driving, but eventually subsides completely. When I turn the wheel while it is happening there seems to be no effect. It is a font end sound that is heard better inside the car than by opening a window. Yesterday we took it back to the shop and they replaced the front rotors and brake pads. Rears are already done. This didn’t stop it.
The Subaru dealer in my city has a terrible reputation for dealing with. So that’s why we have gone to another garage. But if they can’t accurately diagnose it, I guess we will have to try Subaru, cause trouble shooting like this is getting expensive and frustrating.
Dealer noticed my muffler is cracked at the seam and there's some exhaust noise (I haven't noticed because I was bringing it in for brake noise). They want $670 to replace it and the gasket. A quick Google says that's fairly high.
I have basic mechanical skills and access to a jack and jack stands, as well as general power tools. Is this something I can do myself in a day?
What brands would people recommend? I'm hoping maybe $200-300 and would definitely prefer a model-specific kit.
Or is this something I can have an exhaust shop just weld and it'll hold for another however many thousand miles?
So the problem is I'm getting codes P0011 & P0021 Its been extensive Oil pump was changed. Banjo bolt filters removed. Timing was checked and was off a tooth but still have those codes. Oil pressure tested good up until the vvt solenoids. Even to the turbo it was good. But here's the kicker the vvts tested great. But I don't know if it could be the fact there aftermarket and dude who had it before me put them in. Maybe there out of tolerance with Subarus standards in oil flow? Tolerances I mean. I ordered some OEM vvt solenoids and if it's not that maybe it's the cam phasers? See under a scan they were able to excel and retard the timing. But not as fast as the ecm wants. Not to mention the angles it does it are always different which is strange. I'm wondering what the odds are that it actually is the non OEM vvts or if this fixed it for anyone else. My oil is clean. And pressure remains optimal. It just reached the 136,000 mile mark
I am having issues accelerating from a stopped position, as well as at higher speeds around 45-50 miles per hour.
When accelerating from a stop the car tends to hesitate around 10 mph. It doesn’t necessarily jerk, but it feels as if it’s empty. It then picks up and I experience higher revs around 4500-5000.
When going 45 to 50 mph at an incline I can have my foot all the way down on the accelerator and the car revs high around 5500-6000 and feels like it doesn’t shift. I top out around 50-55 mph until I am on a level surface.
Since this has been happening I have changed the fuel pump, battery, alternator, and most recently swapped the transmission fluid.
I fear my transmission is pretty much shot. Does this sound like the case, or am I overlooking something?
Is there anything else I can test/try to replace?
Please let me know if you need additional information or have any questions about the behavior.
Well I’m back. I’ll be linking my previous post that I thought was resolved here. https://www.reddit.com/r/SubaruForester/s/I7XEk5cLEq
The engine light turned off for about 6 days and then came back - no vehicle dynamic control system light this time (just didn’t take a new picture). Could the MAF sensor need another cleaning? Could this be something more?? Could it be I have to replace the MAF sensor? What else can I try?
Code: P0171
TLDR (linked post): My 2015 Subaru Forester at about 110,000 miles has a check engine light and vehicle dynamic control system notice. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body air intake.
I’m going on a roadtrip and I want to maximize cargo space since we will have a full car. I was considering a roof cargo carrier. I also don’t want to spend a ton of money, as it’s not something I’m going to use all the time, probably more like 2-3 times a year max.
I need to get cross bars right? and then whatever cargo carrier should be waterproof, as I live in the PNW and rain is always right around the corner. I’m not concerned about the cross bars supporting rooftop tents, thats not really something I see myself doing
I made a post a little while ago about potentially swapping a JDM turbo engine from RHD SF into my NA LHD. I have abandoned that idea until I have the proper funds / space to do a swap like that, and I am now looking for a replacement NA engine. So far all my searching hasn't gone very well as everyone either wants over $1000 cad or the engines are over 300,000 km and probably worse than mine.
I have found a 1998 Subaru Outback which has an DOHC EJ25D and I could get the whole car for $500. Does anyone know if it is possible to put that motor in my 02' foz? I know my forester is SOHC and I have been told as long as the electrical connectors are the same should be able to swap over the intake manifold and some other small things and drop it right in.
After doing some research I think my 4 options are:
- Try to make the outback engine work which could potentially snowball into a huge headache / bill
- Say fuckit we ball and ride out the piston slap for as long as possible and pray nothing grenades
- Bite the bullet and drop $1k+ on a motor that will (mostly) drop right in with little issues
- Get the motor rebuilt as its decently healthy, but I think thats probably the most expensive option and requires the most time / work out of this list tbh
What do we think? What are some options I might have not considered? I am able to pull a motor no problem, but I am not confident when it comes to tearing down engines / internal work.
Hey guys, just bought my first Subaru yesterday. 2019 Subaru Forester - 60k miles, all in good shape from what I could tell and what my mechanic could tell. First time in a CVT vehicle.
However, is lurching a thing? I'll take my foot off the pedal to coast, it feels like the engine goes much quieter and power is reduced, then I'll ease back into the pedal but there will be no register - then it will shoot up 800-1000 revs and my car will do this mini-lurch which is very annoying.
Namely, it happens at really any speed (stop and go, or highway) and in both of those S and I modes on the wheel.
Context: just had a drain and refill of the CVT and there was a stored code for a misfire in the engine (though it was likely quite old).
The friend I introduced to Subaru gets a $750 loyalty coupon every time she asks, although she’s owned fewer Subarus than I have. Meanwhile, I got a $500 coupon once but this time, after I contacted them to let them know my Subaru was totaled in a pretty horrific accident and I was hoping to purchase my 4th Subaru, they simply said they don’t offer purchase assistance and gave me a link to current sales and incentives.
Kinda thinking I should just lean to Mazda (my 2nd choice), especially since they are offering $1000 cash discount or 0% financing on the model I’m looking at.
Is it worth trying to call back and see if I can get the loyalty/goodwill coupon or is it a lost cause?
Hey everyone, I'm shopping for my first Subaru and am bouncing between this and the Outback. I've sat in both and had good room being 6'7 and heavy, but haven't had a formal test drive yet.
I was wondering if there are any decent deals going on, or has anyone been able to get below dealer price. There were 2 new ones at my dealership for 35k, but I would really like that to be my max out the door price tbh. I just like the look of the new ones as anything pre 25 looks like a bubble to me.
My credit isn't the best, so I would be putting a large down payment on it and probably wouldn't qualify for any good APR deals.
So I was watching some DrivingSportsTV videos on both the previous and new Forester Wilderness models, and I've been very impressed with their performance.
However, upon reading the comments section, I keep seeing people saying that the Wilderness lineup and Subaru in general got surpassed and left behind by models such as the Bronco Sport Badlands and Passport Trailsport.
On the note of the Bronco Sport, I keep seeing comments saying that Subaru needs to add lockers onto their Wilderness models, even though I don't see why, as they're not rock crawlers.
Also, a couple of people said that Subaru's all wheel drive system isn't special anymore, and that apparently all other manufactures make a better system.
Traded my toyota for something a lil bigger. This was supposedly a 2014 Subaru Forester XT with 135kmiles. Turns out not actual milage(was not made aware till I received title). Also pulled Carfax afterwar the fact since I got the title and also had transmission changed. What y'all think of the current sound. If y'all want more info lmk
Just preficing this by saying, I don't have much of a clue what I'm doing here.
For my forester, I purchased these two boot lights Light 1 Light 2
Both of them I'll need to tap into my factory trunk light so they turn on when I open it up.
Light 1 has positive/negative wires that I just slide into the stock housing/plug
Light 2 has an adapter so it can plug into the factory female port and then the factory boot light plug can slot into it too.
I want to check before I do this and I won't be overloading my car's electronics and doing some damage.
