I have a 2025 Forester Limited. I'm interested in a GROUND-LEVEL forward-facing camera. I want to see the parking lines as I pull into a spot. WHY? I still haven't gotten used to the Forester's width, coming from a 2010 VW Jetta. Does Subaru have such a device or do I need to look into an aftermarket one? Or maybe I should just learn how to back into a spot using the rear-facing camera. Whadda y'all think? Thanx much for any recommendations.

I currently have these on my 2016 Subaru Forester XT 2.0 Touring. I am in Colorado and want to get a set of Bridgestone Blizzaks this year. I’m looking on tire rack and they don’t have the exact size match of my current tire. My question is, out of this list of what they do have available, which option would work and be the most compatible?

Hey guys,

I made a post a little while ago about potentially swapping a JDM turbo engine from RHD SF into my NA LHD. I have abandoned that idea until I have the proper funds / space to do a swap like that, and I am now looking for a replacement NA engine. So far all my searching hasn't gone very well as everyone either wants over $1000 cad or the engines are over 300,000 km and probably worse than mine.

I have found a 1998 Subaru Outback which has an DOHC EJ25D and I could get the whole car for $500. Does anyone know if it is possible to put that motor in my 02' foz? I know my forester is SOHC and I have been told as long as the electrical connectors are the same should be able to swap over the intake manifold and some other small things and drop it right in.

After doing some research I think my 4 options are:

- Try to make the outback engine work which could potentially snowball into a huge headache / bill

- Say fuckit we ball and ride out the piston slap for as long as possible and pray nothing grenades

- Bite the bullet and drop $1k+ on a motor that will (mostly) drop right in with little issues

- Get the motor rebuilt as its decently healthy, but I think thats probably the most expensive option and requires the most time / work out of this list tbh

What do we think? What are some options I might have not considered? I am able to pull a motor no problem, but I am not confident when it comes to tearing down engines / internal work.

The shitter in question

Anyone have any experience with three single person kayaks on the roof? How did it go and what did you need other than crossbars?

Joined the club a few weeks ago ! First car purchase ever !

I’m known as the Subaru Guy 👌🏾 on my street.

Too nice of a day to not want to drive this thing.

Missing my Comma from my '19 Touring after updating to my '25 Hybrid. Since the Sunnypilot group already has been successful decoding the new angle-based steering, I'm jumping into the fire to see how I might help the Github/Discord groups get the 25+ Hybrid working. I've already modified the Subaru D harness and have it installed with no vehicle errors, but of course am getting the "unsupported vehicle" message. I'm not a programmer, but guess I might become one if it helps get lateral control implemented. So as I teach myself about fingerprinting, CAN frames, and the task of actually posting to Github/Discord without getting flamed, just wondering if anyone else has/is working on this, too?

https://www.reddit.com/r/Comma_ai/comments/1rzwanl/any_chances_the_comma_4_will_be_made_compatible/

Dealing with oil temp, stability, and ABS light issues and getting code P0971. Don't waste money at the dealer. I found a guy in Vancouver who fixed it for me for 1000, while dealers and shops quoted me 3500 and 2500. Let me know if you need his info.

2016 Forester - I have the usual oil weep from the bottom left and right corners of this interesting design by subaru that relied on RTV sealant. I'm fine topping off oil every few thousand miles or so, but the passenger side is dripping onto the connector to the primary oxygen sensor. Has anyone found a way to protect this sensor/connector from the oil to reduce the risk of it failing?

Does anyone recognize this sound? (My husband opens the window around 30 seconds, so ignore that sound). We began hearing it in July, took it into a shop (non-Subaru dealer)at that point
they replaced the CV axle. It didn’t fix the issue. It is an intermittent issue and disappeared for a while, showing up only occasionally. But it has begun to happen more frequently. We are on the verge of winter where I am in Canada, so want to get it sorted out before the possibility of being stranded in frigid temperatures.

Here are some possible correlations we have noticed: it seems to happen pretty consistently after driving at high speeds and then slowing down to city speeds. There might be a relationship to damp weather. Also, if I brake while it is happening the sound stops immediately, it usually resumes as we keep driving, but eventually subsides completely. When I turn the wheel while it is happening there seems to be no effect. It is a font end sound that is heard better inside the car than by opening a window. Yesterday we took it back to the shop and they replaced the front rotors and brake pads. Rears are already done. This didn’t stop it.

The Subaru dealer in my city has a terrible reputation for dealing with. So that’s why we have gone to another garage. But if they can’t accurately diagnose it, I guess we will have to try Subaru, cause trouble shooting like this is getting expensive and frustrating.

Was filling up my Forester and well, actually saw this old first-gen one.

Dealer noticed my muffler is cracked at the seam and there's some exhaust noise (I haven't noticed because I was bringing it in for brake noise). They want $670 to replace it and the gasket. A quick Google says that's fairly high.

I have basic mechanical skills and access to a jack and jack stands, as well as general power tools. Is this something I can do myself in a day?

What brands would people recommend? I'm hoping maybe $200-300 and would definitely prefer a model-specific kit.

Or is this something I can have an exhaust shop just weld and it'll hold for another however many thousand miles?

So the problem is I'm getting codes P0011 & P0021 Its been extensive Oil pump was changed. Banjo bolt filters removed. Timing was checked and was off a tooth but still have those codes. Oil pressure tested good up until the vvt solenoids. Even to the turbo it was good. But here's the kicker the vvts tested great. But I don't know if it could be the fact there aftermarket and dude who had it before me put them in. Maybe there out of tolerance with Subarus standards in oil flow? Tolerances I mean. I ordered some OEM vvt solenoids and if it's not that maybe it's the cam phasers? See under a scan they were able to excel and retard the timing. But not as fast as the ecm wants. Not to mention the angles it does it are always different which is strange. I'm wondering what the odds are that it actually is the non OEM vvts or if this fixed it for anyone else. My oil is clean. And pressure remains optimal. It just reached the 136,000 mile mark

2008 Subaru Forester 180,000 miles.

I am having issues accelerating from a stopped position, as well as at higher speeds around 45-50 miles per hour.

When accelerating from a stop the car tends to hesitate around 10 mph. It doesn’t necessarily jerk, but it feels as if it’s empty. It then picks up and I experience higher revs around 4500-5000.

When going 45 to 50 mph at an incline I can have my foot all the way down on the accelerator and the car revs high around 5500-6000 and feels like it doesn’t shift. I top out around 50-55 mph until I am on a level surface.

Since this has been happening I have changed the fuel pump, battery, alternator, and most recently swapped the transmission fluid.

I fear my transmission is pretty much shot. Does this sound like the case, or am I overlooking something?
Is there anything else I can test/try to replace?

Please let me know if you need additional information or have any questions about the behavior.

Thank you!

Well I’m back. I’ll be linking my previous post that I thought was resolved here. https://www.reddit.com/r/SubaruForester/s/I7XEk5cLEq
The engine light turned off for about 6 days and then came back - no vehicle dynamic control system light this time (just didn’t take a new picture). Could the MAF sensor need another cleaning? Could this be something more?? Could it be I have to replace the MAF sensor? What else can I try?
Code: P0171

TLDR (linked post): My 2015 Subaru Forester at about 110,000 miles has a check engine light and vehicle dynamic control system notice. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body air intake.

I’m going on a roadtrip and I want to maximize cargo space since we will have a full car. I was considering a roof cargo carrier. I also don’t want to spend a ton of money, as it’s not something I’m going to use all the time, probably more like 2-3 times a year max.

I need to get cross bars right? and then whatever cargo carrier should be waterproof, as I live in the PNW and rain is always right around the corner. I’m not concerned about the cross bars supporting rooftop tents, thats not really something I see myself doing

thanks in advance!

Hi, I just purchased my 2015 forester from a Subaru dealership. I went through PPI and they brought up an issue with leaking on the passenger side valve cover gasket that was urgent but not enough to stop the deal, so I bought it with the intention of fixing. I called up a mechanic that specializes in Subarus, and he was very concerned that I had bought this car with the given pictures. He stated that it does NOT look like a VCG leak... something much worse. He urged me to talk to the dealership to try to get them to fix it or 50/50. Since I got a used "as is" car, how should I phrase communication with the dealership to at least get a 50/50 split on the repair costs (if that's even a possibility).

I went on a road trip last weekend and halfway through the drive I noticed that I had been driving in L instead of D. I was hauling a bunch of camping equipment and had the roof rack on the car, so I just assumed the car was driving differently because of the load. I only noticed when we stopped for a pee break and I shifted into park. Embarrassing mistake...oops

Anyway, it was roughly 100 miles of driving in L on country roads over some New England mountains, with maybe 20 minutes of highway driving. No warning lights or alarmingly strange behavior from my car, and I haven't noticed any weird smells since I've been back. The RPM stayed around 4k. It's a 2017 Forester with roughly 73,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile to drain and refill the CVT fluid after this, or whether it would be fine without. I've never done it on this car. Since it was a prolonged amount of time to be in L, and I climbed/descended some pretty big hills, I'm worried the quality of the fluid has been degraded.

Is changing CVT fluid the best course of action here? Other thoughts?

Thanks!

Hey guys, just bought my first Subaru yesterday. 2019 Subaru Forester - 60k miles, all in good shape from what I could tell and what my mechanic could tell. First time in a CVT vehicle.

However, is lurching a thing? I'll take my foot off the pedal to coast, it feels like the engine goes much quieter and power is reduced, then I'll ease back into the pedal but there will be no register - then it will shoot up 800-1000 revs and my car will do this mini-lurch which is very annoying.

Namely, it happens at really any speed (stop and go, or highway) and in both of those S and I modes on the wheel.

Context: just had a drain and refill of the CVT and there was a stored code for a misfire in the engine (though it was likely quite old).

Help!!!

My forester died on the highway. RPMS revved real high then car sputtered and i pulled over, shut it off, and it wouldnt restart. A little body shop towed me off the highway and took a look. Car sat there over night and they took a look today and said i was just out of gas. My gas light never came on and the screen said i still had 100 miles left. Ive run out of gas once before in this car and that time my gas light was on and it didnt rev. Just sputtered and started slowin down till i pulled over and shut it off.

Just wonderin if anyone agrees with the no gas diagnoses and maybe my gas meter has gone bad, or if anyone has any other ideas cause i dont trust the high RPM thing it did. It didnt do that the 1st time i ran out of gas.

Any advice is appreciated.