Hi, I’m not a homeowner but I rent an apartment that has an AHU in the backyard that I use as a home office. It’s very obviously not the most well-constructed structure, but it does the job.

After a recent leak in the ceiling, my landlord sent his preferred contractor to address the leak and the mold that had sprung up. He removed / replaced the insulation and sheetrock and presumably fixed the leak, then nailed the tin ceiling tiles back up. I assumed we were all good.

I was still experiencing mold toxicity symptoms so pried up a different section of tin ceiling and found more mold. I insisted on hiring a professional remediation company this time, despite my landlord and his contractor both rolling their eyes and insisting that all that needed to be done was replace the other sections of insulation / sheetrock.

The mold remediation company came this week and left me with this. It smells insane in there.

My landlord is holding firm that we still just need to replace the ceiling and maybe the beams, which his contractor will do. I’m of the mind that we need to hire a professional roofer asap, and that I don’t want his contractor involved in any more of this shitshow.

Anyway, I’m not an expert, but am I right in thinking that based on the condition of this ceiling, the roof is fucked? Also, shouldn’t that have been obvious to this contractor when he was doing his initial repair?

Not looking forward to the conversations I’m going to have to have here but would love to sound a little more informed going into them, thanks!

Editing to say: I appreciate and understand the “just move” perspective, but this is rent-stabilized NYC in a really great location with a big yard and this structure is not attached to my actual apartment. I got so, so lucky finding this place and I’m hoping the luck hasn’t run out yet. But I also recognize it is a disaster so it’s all up in the air, like the mold spores I’ve been breathing for months / years

What is the right way to fix this? The water from the top gutter should flow out to the lower gutter, then out to the drain. Instead, it is wrapping back under the end, and walking out past the lower gutter. It then drops to the ground causing a puddle. The upper gutter end is open.

Is this as simple bending it? Do I need to lower this end? Do you put a drain, or pop a hole in the top gutter?

Got a new roof installed last December here in Jacksonville. The entire install went relatively smooth. During final inspection, I noticed some of the mole runs, but due to bad lighting I didn’t see the extent. Eventually under good lighting conditions, I saw the scope. Surprisingly, this is only a problem on the front side of the house facing the street. But, it spans across the whole slope. Contractor said they would smooth out with warm weather.

I waited and waited, hot weather came and went, and now I’m finally getting back to addressing this. It was a crazy year with work and I finally just got through the big deadline, so give me a little break.

What is likely cause? What is the likely fix? Contractor seems open to fixing the issues, but wouldn’t be surprised if they try to cut corners. Owens Corning Duration shingles with self adhering underlayment.

My roof was replaced in 2020 after a hail storm. Recently I noticed some discoloration only on one half. We live in wooded and often shaded area. I'm curious if this is something I should be concerned about.

I have a radiator next to my window (zinc roof), and on sunny days, the room turns into a sauna.

I’ve done some research, and it seems that reflective roof paint is the most effective solution. There are also films that block UV rays and infrared radiation. Should I buy those films while I save up for the paint? What other options are there?

We had a new roof installed yesterday.

Mid Atlantic, $14,100, 2,600 sqft home.

The shingles are GAF Timberline HDZ.

How does the install look?

Additionally my HVAC did not work last night and I went out this morning to find debris on my lines.

Looking for opinions from people more knowledgeable than me.

I had a new Westlake concrete tile roof installed on my Florida home in July 2026 (Saxony 900 Slate Dark Charcoal blend, SKU 1FMCS1135O). https://www.westlakeroyalbuildingproducts.com/roofing/us-tile/saxony-900-slate?color=645&sku=1FMCS1135O&regions=4592

Shortly after installation, I noticed widespread gray or hazy areas, repeated white dots, streaks, and scuff-like marks across virtually all tiles. Additionally, the color is generally lighter than what is advertised on the website (although this is less of my concern at the moment)

The explanations communicated to me have included efflorescence, tile-cutting dust, and wax transfer from the tiles being stacked. I was told that at least some of the appearance may weather away naturally within 6–12 months.

I understand that concrete tiles can have normal color variation and temporary efflorescence, but this seems unusually widespread and patterned to me. Some of the marks also look more like abrasion or loss of the dark surface color than something deposited on top of it.

Westlake’s proposed resolution was to paint or color-correct the roof, but I was asked to contribute $4,000 toward that work. This is a brand-new roof, so I have not accepted that proposal.

For the roofers and concrete-tile professionals here:

1. Does this look like normal efflorescence or ordinary variation on a new concrete tile roof?
2. Do the repeated white edge marks look like wax transfer, handling damage, abrasion, or something else?
3. Would you realistically expect this appearance to disappear after 6–12 months of Florida weather?
4. Is painting or color-coating a brand-new concrete tile roof considered a normal and durable repair?
5. What would you consider a reasonable manufacturer response?

I realize nobody can make a definitive diagnosis from photographs, but I would appreciate candid opinions from people who install or work with concrete tile roofs.

On our 10 year old NE Florida home I noticed discoloration on the ceiling that is nearly directly under a vent pipe. We had a week of heavy rain. I inspected the vent and found that of the 4 vents this one had the sloppiest install with the front sort of lifted and no caulk under the front. There is some light cracking in the row of shingles, perhaps from having the shingle bent during install (photo from build). Should the front be sealed/nailed down on the sides or is the cause more likely around the base or shingles?

There is also a valley where I noticed 2 or 3 spots where debris are catching on part of the shingle which is also very soft (circled bad spot in photo). The spots are on the right-hand side of the valley, not the cut side. No leaks in this area that I'm aware of. What is the best way to address this?

Other than that, I noticed some areas where you can lift shingles, so I plan on glueing those spots down with roofing adhesive.

I thought I’d rather ask the experts before pointlessly flailing any longer:

I am looking at getting our roof replaced, and the folks I have had turn up for quotes are eager to sell me a new roof, but all agree that they don’t do any insulation work.

Half of the house has vaulted ceilings, and I need some form of insulation inside, as the old one is messing up airflow and has caused mold issues.

Is this normal for WA state? Do I need to find different contractors? What should I be looking for (the insulation contractors I could find all appear to exclusively do spray foam attic insulation)?

Quebec City.

I’ve been looking for a local roofer and I’m having trouble finding a company I can trust. I went through Angie’s list and I now know it’s a mistake. So many contacts it’s overwhelming. I now know that those companies sell your information to roofers. I’ve been looking online and it seems everyone wants an appointment upfront.

3 bids, thousands of dollars difference and lucky I have a sales background so I didn’t fall for the usual sales tricks of buy today to lock in scenarios. Of course now my algorithm on facebook is spamming a bunch of roof ads and they all look the same or they are terrible AI lead grabbing companies. For those who recently purchased a roof, how was your experience and why did you choose the company you went with? Also any you regret or wish you had done sooner? My wife and I have a baby coming next week and it’s hard to take on everything at once. Any advice is appreciated I just want to make the right decision.

Had this given to me and need more but would like it all to match. The 1st and 3rd picture are the ends and the 2nd picture are the middle ribs. Never seen any like this before and cant seem to find it either.

I'm having my modified bitumen roof replaced. It's a flat roofed old Chicago brick 2 flat built in the 1920s.

One side of the brick parapet wall was badly damaged and I rebuilt it. Now, I'm trying to figure out how to re install the Terra Cotta coping tiles. I understand the direction they should be oriented to shed water but how are they attached? The old ones came off easily without breaking, maybe because the mortar was so badly decayed. Should I pre soak them, lay a mortar bed and set them in the mortar, or be more sparing, using mortar at the joints and only a few places to adhere the tiles?

Just so everyone is aware. I got the roof done in June and it has leaked at the flashing since. The crew has come out on 3 separate occasions to “repair it.”

The first was more silicone. The second was a new flash and reglet, now white (compared to my first post where it was black); and more silicone. Today was the latest repair, and if you guessed - more silicone.

The company name is GreenStar Exteriors.

Post-Isaias damage. Every roofer/GC I’ve reached out to has full voicemail boxes, or is already weeks out. So, I am trying to tarp this myself.

Looking for helpful advice from the experts.

The damage is right on the corner, so having a difficult time imagining the best way to secure a tarp or 2x4s.

I’m using this video as a general guide:
https://youtu.be/qC4ynfF8JrE?si=xx-lEJiHTG6hqnRc

Thanks in advance!

(PS, this roof is less than 2-3 years old. Is it okay for me to be drilling into it through the non-damaged shingles and part of the roof, or should I try to avoid as much additional damage as possible?)

My roof is getting redone- yesterday it was raining a decent amount as they were putting the shingles back on. Today it has been misting all day. I’ve heard that you’re not supposed to roof in the rain because the shingles don’t stick as well! How big of a deal is this? I called the company and they completely blew off my concerns. My whole neighborhood is getting new roofs and we are the only house being worked on today. :(

Looks lazy and goofy as hell with that AI slop plastered all over the place. Shingles all melted together, and a sunset happening inside the house.

Does nobody here have images of a quality install we could have used instead?

I really expected better of this place.

Last time it rained, I was in my attic and I noticed the boards framed around my chimney were damp/wet to the touch. Is this flashing obviously wrong or should I be looking elsewhere?

The chimney itself is brand new with a new liner. Roofing company recently came out and while working replaced the chimney flashing, for some reason.

Hey everyone, like the title suggest, Hurricane came through and thankfully there doesn't appear to be any damage. However I did notice that the ceiling at the very center of it has a crack running through the center of it. Its probably just movement from the stress on the home after the storm but i don't want to ignore it if someone with more knowledge thinks its cause for concern. Mostly its just 1 line but in some areas its 2 running parallel to one another, they seem small to me. I did walk the roof and found no issues.

Before the Hurricane the living room wall had a thin Crack running vertical and touching the center of the ceiling which im sure is just settling since the house is from 1989.

I am trying to install a set of Govee lights along my roofline and I am at the last stretch, which also looks to be the most difficult part. Any idea how I could get this last bit? Obviously I can get the corner part but the peak is too high, and I can't get a ladder any closer/higher. The only thing I can think of is to get on the very top and reach underneath which sounds sketchy for someone who doesn't have much experience being on a roof. Any ideas? Thanks!

GAF Approved a repair on my 8 year old roof. They selected the company.

Shingles are GAF Timberline HD (Pewter Grey), Replaced with GAF Timberline HDZ (Pewter Grey).

Scope of work: Replace drip edge, First Two courses of shingles and ice/water shield as needed.

Work was done today by two different crews from the same company. One crew did the front, the other did the back.

Other than the color not matching perfectly, the new shingles appear to have been installed well ... the problem is the shingles directly adjacent to the repair now show a ton of damage. There are holes, long tears, exposed fiberglass. I had 129 Linear Feet of roof repaired, and I would estimate around 50-60 instances of visible damage to the existing roof. I did a video walk through the night before the repair, there was almost no damage prior.

I will be contacting GAF and the roofing company in the AM. Just wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts?

The crew that did the front of my house seems to have created way more damage than the crew that did the back of my house.

Image Examples:

https://imgur.com/DLi9zrv

https://imgur.com/8QHzOyu

https://imgur.com/GuQIUwr

https://i.imgur.com/UWv83eS.jpeg

https://imgur.com/xTw0iY1

https://imgur.com/D3xmU8L

I live in western Washington and I am in need of a new roof. I spoke to many installers in the last week. I am mostly looking at Certainteed north gate shingles

4 installers with a shingle master premium certification and offer 5 star warrenty all come around 25k for installation

One installer quoted 20k and he also said he will install 40-50 new plywood depending on the condition. He is certified as shingle master, the very basic certification.

To me his quote is way below compared to other installers and I am having very tough time deciding. I am saving a lot of money with him but I am worried if I should go with others given how cheap he is.

What would you do in my shoes? Price I quoted are before tax so that’s extra 10%

We closed a week ago and I had a roofer come out to take a look.

Southern Washington, 1400 Sq House and the estimate is between 21k to 25k depending on package.

He thinks we should replace the roof based off his inspection (fiberglass, 18 years old, recent leaks).

These are the images he took with notes.

I'm going to get some more quotes of course but all of this is extremely overwhelming.

What advice would you give? My gut is telling me we can repair most of this stuff but factually from what I looked up online, 18 years is a lot.