Gunna do this in silver... jw what yall think of the design?? Yall liked my nepehews pendants but curious what u think

I'm looking into molding some stuff with self skinning foam. Think like armrests for chairs and stuff but I want them to have integral mounting equipment. How would I go about molding something with a skeleton inside it so it's not just a plain old pad. Is there a specific way to do it where the in molded peace won't shred the inside of the foam?

This is an eco-resin blend casting material called AquaCast I got my hands on a while ago and tried a terrazzo finish. This was my first attempt with this stuff! Hope you like it.

Navratri Jumkha made with resin. This can sf sparkle to you Navratri look ..

Cross posting here to see if anyone has any tips for the process. I had a single bubble cause a chip near the top. The hardener was exposed to sun which caused it to yellow. Not a bad effect for this piece. That bottom (which was cast on top) has a razor’s edge.

So I'm doing the college teams. This is my first time doing clocks.

I've been looking into how much room temperature affects epoxy resin curing, especially with taller molds or pieces that have different thicknesses.

I know the resin type, mixing ratio, and recommended pour depth all matter, but I'm curious how much of a difference a stable curing environment makes in practice.

For those who make resin pieces regularly, do you just let them cure at room temperature, or do you use a temperature-controlled setup or curing machine?

Have you noticed a real difference in curing time or consistency? I'd be especially interested in hearing what works for taller molds.

Just pulled this test run of a new figure, Still to be named. This guy is made out of components from Halo, Pokémon, Mario, DBZ, Alien, predator, etc. I think I'm gonna call what I've been doing recently figure sampling because I'm taking little snippets and parts of other things and recontextualizing them into something new

I'm looking into duping a part for my gunpla model that I broke. I'm not too sure what I'm looking for exactly but the "smooth on" brand task 4 resin has caught my eye for this. I'm primarily looking for low viscosity and long pot times so that I can vacuum chamber out the air bubbles and still have working time left as well. I currently plan on using "silinot" for the mold. Any suggestions or insights would be very much appreciated!

In my on going quest to make my 3d printing as close to zero waste as I can manage (Motivated more by my wallet) I'm trying to figure out if it is possible to grind up the cured supports from my SLA printer and mix them in with two part epoxy for casting bases for miniatures.

I've got a DIY project I'm working on and I could use some advice.

We're repairing the ornamental railing on the outside of my parent's old house right now. That kind of pointless ornamentation some old houses have along the edge of flat portions of the roof. Specifically these are little onion shaped wood topper bulbs screwed into a wood beam that runs along the edge of the roof.

Originally they were wood, but this is in Texas and the weather here has a tendency to just destroy any wood that isn't properly treated. And these delicate little wood onions didn't stand a chance. I'd personally just leave them off or find something similar pre-made in polyurethane or similar, but there's a historic society thing happening here and I have to replace these with identical decorations.

I've done some resin casting in the past, and I got the idea that maybe I can make a mold of these little ornamental things and cast in a extremely durable resin. But I'm not sure what kind of resin would be the best fit for these.

Can anyone recommend a really tough resin that can withstand intense heat and rain? They'd be painted.

Thank you.

What is the best brand/type of epoxy to use for silicone casts of trinket dishes, bowls, small vases?

Hello talented makers!

I’m looking to commission a single, custom resin coaster for my desk setup. I have a very specific concept in mind. I’m not a resin artist myself, so I don't even know if combining these two effects is chemically or physically possible, but I think it could be a really fun mini-project for someone who loves experimenting.

The Concept: A dark/black coaster that reacts to the heat of a coffee mug to reveal a glowing core.

How I imagine it working:

1. The Base (The Core): A pour of either a Galaxy/Space theme OR a flowing Lava theme. This layer needs to use photoluminescent (glow-in-the-dark) pigment.
2. The Top Layer (The Mask): A thermochromic black resin layer covering the base.
3. The Effect: When the coaster is at room temperature, it looks like a sleek black slab. When I put a hot mug of coffee on it, the heat turns the black layer clear, revealing the vibrant, glowing galaxy or lava hidden underneath.

EDIT: Or maybe we could consider the exact opposite approach? For instance, putting the glow-in-the-dark layer on top so it charges easily in ambient light, and the thermochromic layer underneath, which would turn clear from the heat to reveal a hidden base.

The Specs:

• Needs to handle the heat of a standard hot mug safely without warping or melting.
• Around 11-13 cm (4.5 - 5 inches). Shape is up to you (round, hex, square).
• A cork or anti-slip base would be amazing to protect my fabric desk mat.
• Budget: Around $40 for the coaster, plus tracked shipping to France. (Please note that I cannot afford endless extra fees and have a strict ceiling for the total overall cost. We'll just need to check the shipping estimate early on to make sure it stays reasonable!)

EDIT 2: Another breakthrough idea! Instead of stacking horizontal layers (which blocks light or heat), what if we distribute the powders spatially on the same plane? We could use the glow-in-the-dark pigment for the main parts (like a galaxy spiral or lava flow) so it stays exposed to ambient light all day. Then, we intermingle thermochromic pigments for the finer details (like subtle veins, dark asteroid belts, or thin lines). It doesn't need to be a massive color shift—just subtle grooves or details that react to the hot mug and reveal themselves alongside the glowing parts. Does mixing the powders this way make the project more realistic to craft?

Does this sound like a fun challenge to anyone? If you think you can pull off this "heat-reveal glow" effect, I'd love to see some of your previous work!

I did this with sheets of plexiglass. I rubbed paraffin on the plexiglass and wiped it off until it was clear. That leaves a thin film of wax. The plexiglass popped loose once I got a blade stared under the corner. It needs some work on the top and side but I think it came out pretty good. There wasn't much helping the line between first and second pour. It had to be solid to hold the medallion. Thinking back just now though I could have suspended it... I didn't wait for it to set up completely between the second and third pours and the line is much less obvious and for some reason looks mountainous.