Does anyone know of RV campgrounds that offer extended stay in Georgia? My husband travels for work and we are thinking of adapting a full time RV life instead of just going out and purchasing a home. Any recommendations for affordable and reliable RVs and extended stay RV campgrounds will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

any thoughts would be great, thanks!

Does anyone have any good universal TV remote suggestions for my Furrion TV in my RV?

I'm replacing most of my floor due to extensive water damage and found that the manufacturer of my travel trailer installed polyethylene fabric under the OSB flooring. There's nothing between that and outside.

The more I'm researching, the more I'm thinking that fabric contributed to my extensive water damage by holding in the moisture. I can tell you when I took out the rotted floor sections, there was definitely moisture between the wood and the fabric.

I'm thinking about removing it entirely from underneath to avoid future issues and let the exterior wood breathe better. Am I thinking about this right? What am I missing? Other suggestions? It's a small travel trailer without any insulation in the flooring. It's just fabric, OSB wood, vinyl flooring from bottom to top.

I know a lot of these are self-inflicted wounds. But i just feel so defeated. I am not even quite sure why i am posting this- but just almost feels like giving up and like i made a hugge mistake. like i threw away a perfectly stable good life for insane chaos. any wisdom - life or rv helps.

[Background] we are a pair of city boy/gal in our 30’s. we are insanely blessed to work remotely. our dog is getting old and we want to see this beautiful country but always feel bad leaving him behind with sitter. started dreaming about Van life but ain’t no way my 6’1 SO is gonna be happy in it - esp while we both still work full time. then started looking into trailer, but still wanted more space. ended up with a 44ft fifth wheel Forrest River Salem Hemisphere + F350. Our plan is to go see 49 states in next 4-6 years depending on the pace.

[The prep before the journey] we knew how insane that leap is for white collar folk who’e never done a day‘s repair in life. so we took our time. we’ve researched RV life styles for 12+ months. countless YT videos, went to carpentry school, even took a 5-week RV tech certification class and also driving lessons, and hired inspector because we purchase second hand.

[Sad thing 1 Knowing vs Doing] we know going into this that RV breaks. doesn't matter how much you pay, they are all made in 2 weeks in a production line and QA is not a thing. which is part of the reason i went to RV tech/ carpentry school. but i still find myself knowing nothing. It’s always the same cycle- i feel so confident and happy learning new skills in schools but freeze in real world. from learning to use power tools for first time to buildinv my own damn shed. from not knowing wtf is a multimeter to being able to diagnose tuff. but all that- I still feel like i know nothing and feel useless- im scared in the real world. The thing is just so big and dangerous looking lol Even driving school, learned to 45 degree back in, but now we added a truck bed cover, our pinch point is different again and i can never 45 degree in. SO and i literally spent 1 hr and couldnt. Even though i passed a cert, Im still scared to do things. i feel so ashamed i spent so much time and money to learn and have nothing to show in real life

[Sad thing 2 - Renovation] This is our first month living in it full time. We’ve spent the last 20 days remodeling it at RV park in FL- i wouldn’t wish this on my worst enemy. We spray painted all of our walls/cabinets - that alone took whole 5 days with proper sanding and prep. we did that in suites in FL heat without AC because vent is covered in plastic sheets. my renovation schedule was 4 weeks. we‘ve completely blown through it. During renovation it’s the small things that would lead me to complete melt down - a stuck/stripped screw that i ended up having to oscillating saw out, pain drip, masking tape fails, etc etc the list goes on. And now all i see is the imperfections- the uneven paint areas, the peels pain because i Accidentally peel off a command strip too hard etc the tiles that’s crooked. the insane amount of trips to HomeDepot was disgusting. My SO tells me to slow down. and to stop comparing myself to picture perfect instagram/pinterest photos. i mentally knows he’s right, but physically my mind can’t stop. Maybe also because lack of sleep? idk. i just feel like everything looks so amerture and ugly- like what have i doneee.

[Sad thing 3 - the breakdowns] going into it i have no illusions that it’s gonna be easy. But the amount is overwhelming. Our camper was in storage was 3-4 months.
- thing 1: When we took her out to campsite on our first short trip, tire debeaded. thankfully it happened when we already got there. Turned out rim was bent. ended up deciding to change all tires out anyway.

- thing 2: Then learn our black tank had a crack. Changed that out.
- thing 3: Then last week FL was rainy non-stop and learned there’s some water intrusion at bottom of 1 slide out- eternal bonded it because sealant wouldn't cure in rain.
- thing 4: Finally time to go on our first big trip ftom Orlando to Northern Georgia. super proud of my SO towing the big ol boy and made the big drive. At one of the gas stop, a truck driver told us something was dragging. Turned out our underbelly near rear black tank fell and it severed a wire. We bought 4 rolls of gorrila tape at gas station. I crawl under and tape the shit out of it until we could get to GA. we learned at campsite that severed wire was for our auto leveler

- thing 5: then one of our gray tank started leaking. which the technician is temp patching it then we will replace it.

all of these - from start of renovation to now in Georgia and all the breakdowns from first big trip happened in a span of 2 month while we both still work full time.

I am exhausted. I feel defeated. I want to give up. I’ve had so many ugly cry melt downs. Idk what to do. I feel like i really gave it my all to be prepared mentally and also skill wise, but I'm just so sad.

yesterday we finally got yo explore georgia a bit. Northern Georgia is so beautiful. And i kept telling myself it will settle down. It will be worth it. But it almost feels like im lying to myself.

Any advice you have or perspective you can give me would really help. I feel like im drawing.

2026 Alliance 252 RL that has a camp side, rear outdoor grill. I want to service/clean it up real good and the only way that I see to do that is to remove it and scrub it down. Any ideas on how to remove it temporarily for the winter months, then mount it back on in the spring? Any guidance/help is appreciated.

We are currently travel-trailer camping in Ky with my spouse and dog. The campground is lakeside in a forest. Here comes the problem.

We are being pelted for the last 24 hours with hickory nuts. (Literally a good hit every couple minutes.) What are the chances our roof is being damaged? I have no idea what to expect when we get home and I get up there to look.

I see so many posts saying to not go to Camping World. many mixed reviews - some people say they’ve had amazing experiences while others say they were ripped off. I’m in NJ and been looking beyond Camping World like General RV and RV Trader. I’m actually really interested in General RV inventory - looking for a 25-30’ travel trailer to live in full time. I’m willing to travel to find a camper that is well priced and suits me, and interested to know where people had gotten theirs with great success. Any suggestions?

I feel a little dumb asking this, but here goes. We're replacing the cover on our trailer, and the old one came with it when we bought it used years ago... so I've never actually had to size one myself.
Now every site wants a length. The spec sheet says one number, the model name says another, and I've seen people say measure bumper to bumper, include the hitch, or add the ladder and spare. Which is it?? Does it depend on who makes the cover? I'd really rather not order twice lol

The forecast shows a low of 29°F tonight. Your travel trailer is parked in the driveway, and you plan to camp again next weekend. Do you really need to winterize it now?

The answer depends on the RV, its plumbing layout, whether it is heated, and how long freezing conditions may last. But the decision should not be based on one reassuring thought: “It is only one night.”

Water trapped in a line, valve, pump, filter housing, or water heater can expand when it freezes. Grand Design's owner guidance tells owners to winterize before exposure to temperatures at or below 32°F (0°C). Treat that as a serious manufacturer warning, not as a guarantee that a particular RV will fail at exactly 32 degrees.

Here is a practical way to make the decision before the first cold night.

## 1. Check the RV's Actual Exposure

Start with the forecast for the RV's location, not the town where you live or the campground you plan to visit. Look at the overnight low, how many hours temperatures may remain below freezing, wind, and the next several nights.

The National Weather Service distinguishes frost conditions from freeze warnings, but those alerts are designed primarily around seasonal vegetation. They are not an RV plumbing certification. A trailer's exposed hose or exterior shower may cool differently from plumbing inside an insulated, heated compartment.

If you cannot verify that your specific RV's plumbing will remain protected, follow its winterization instructions before freezing exposure. Do not assume an enclosed underbelly, a space heater in the living room, or a “four-season” marketing label protects every component.

## 2. Locate the Plumbing Parts That Get Forgotten

Before touching a valve, open the owner's manual for your exact year, model, and installed water-heater type.

Identify the fresh-water tank drain, low-point drains, water pump, city-water connection, water-heater drain and bypass, and any winterization suction line. Then look for the less obvious outlets: exterior shower, outdoor kitchen faucet, spray port, toilet, water filter, and black-tank flush connection.

Winnebago's 2024 towables manual explicitly includes exterior faucets and spray ports in its antifreeze procedure. That is a useful reminder: protecting the kitchen sink alone is not the same as protecting the plumbing system.

Take photos of the valve positions before changing anything. Labels and diagrams vary, and a valve arrangement copied from another RV may be wrong for yours.

## 3. Shut Down the Water Heater Correctly

A water heater deserves its own step because the wrong sequence can damage equipment or create a burn hazard.

Turn off the water heater's electrical and fuel-powered heating functions as directed by its manufacturer. Allow it to cool, remove pressure according to the manual, and follow the model-specific draining instructions. Never remove a hot, pressurized water-heater drain plug.

Tank-type heaters often have bypass valves so RV antifreeze does not fill the heater tank. But tankless or on-demand models may have different requirements. Jayco's 2025 towable manual specifically distinguishes these systems.

Do not assume every water heater should be bypassed, drained, or treated with antifreeze in the same way. If the manual for the installed heater is missing, pause and contact the manufacturer or an RV technician.

## 4. Choose the Approved Winterization Method

Manufacturers commonly describe an RV-antifreeze method, a compressed-air method, or both. The right choice depends on the plumbing and equipment installed.

For an antifreeze procedure, use only the product type approved for potable RV plumbing. Never put automotive engine coolant or windshield-washer fluid into drinking-water lines. Jayco warns that these products can be poisonous.

Follow the prescribed sequence for draining, setting bypass valves, removing or bypassing filters, drawing antifreeze into the correct lines, and treating drains and traps. Include every outlet the manual identifies.

If your model permits compressed-air winterizing, use the pressure limit and procedure specified for that exact RV. Internet pressure settings are not universal. Air-blowing also may not protect every appliance, trap, or accessory by itself.

When in doubt, book a qualified RV service appointment rather than experimenting with an unfamiliar valve panel.

## 5. Don't Forget the Outside Connections

The hose between the campground spigot and your RV is particularly exposed. Disconnect, drain, and store it when freezing weather is expected unless you have a properly designed, approved cold-weather setup.

Check the exterior shower and spray port, which may contain residual water even when the inside faucets seem empty. Consult the manual for any black-tank flush line; it may need separate attention.

A heated water hose is not proof that the RV's inlet, fittings, tanks, and valves are all protected. Nor does an electric space heater make an unattended RV safe from freezing. Never use improvised heating devices near combustible materials or defeat ventilation and electrical safety requirements.

## 6. Make a Return-to-Service Note

Winterization is not finished when the last faucet runs pink or the last drain closes.

Record the date, method, product used, valve positions, filter removal, and any appliance requiring a special restart. Attach a visible reminder at the water-heater controls if they must stay off until the system is properly refilled.

Before the next trip, follow the manufacturer's de-winterizing and sanitizing instructions. Restore normal valve positions, reinstall or replace filters as specified, and verify that the water heater is full before energizing it.

The point is not to panic over every chilly forecast. It is to know your RV well enough to make a defensible decision before trapped water becomes an expensive repair.

Before the next cold night, find the winterization pages for your exact RV and photograph the plumbing valve panel. That ten-minute preparation is worth more than guessing at midnight.

Has anyone ever tried building a little dome over your rv during the walnut barrage? A PVC dome with billboard plastic ratcheted to the frame?????

Right now I have 1” RTech foam board up there secured with Tyvek tape and sandbags. Also installed Maxx Air covers over my skylights.

Thoughts or ideas welcome

Got an odd situation, I’m looking at an f550 with a gvwr of 19,550, gcwr of 43,000, and payload of 11,300 as well as a cedar creek 398FL so a 18,000 GVWR. With this being said I live in Missouri, USA. I will be living out of this full time while working a traveling job for Herzog. Where I wonder is we get an exemption for personal use, I am using the RV for personal use as it is NOT required for my job nor am I getting paid to haul It, it is my house. BUT I will be getting paid to bring my own personal truck which is registered under me and insurance under me not commercial, but I get paid mileage and hourly for driving my TRUCK to the job areas (whole USA) and I choose to bring the RV for personal.

I purchased the subject trailer and brought it home about 3 wks ago. It had problems the moment I drove it off the lot. The trailer brakes didn't work (unbeknownst to me at the time), it leaked a lot during the 135 mile trip home as it snowed on me as I approached Walsenburg, CO (pulled over and stayed at a Love's for 2 days). Two days later I slowly nursed it home the remaining 30 miles. The next day it rained and that lasted, on & off, for 2 1/2 days. I spent that entire time mopping up rain water, not knowing how it was getting inside. As I wrung out the towels in the kitchen sink I noticed the water wasn't draining. So I used the bathroom sink. I'll save the other issues for a different post. Tomorrow night we are supposed to get an unexpected freeze in south-central Colorado. Typically that happens in mid to later November. So, I either need to winterize or build a skirt, which I have enough materials to do but not enough time. Therefore, winterization seems the best course of action. My question to you all is thus: is it possible to winterize this rig when the plumbing from the kitchen sink won't drain? There is no visible p-trap to remove and check for insects, etc. That sink has only seen water since I've had it here.

Do you find yourself basically just telling everyone they shouldn't buy an RV here in this sub? Lol

I mean, it just makes so little sense for the majority of people. Especially when they wanna buy expensive rigs plus a new truck to try to save money on housing. That's like worst case scenario, and also the most common.

So is it just me?

We are looking at a used 2006 b touring cruiser. It has 52,000 miles. We have talked down the sellers to 13,500$ USD.

I'm not sure of the exact model but it has two couches in the front that turn into a bed and a queen size bed in the back with a slide out. Truth be told when I tried to find out the model I was having a hard time matching that setup that I'm talking about to a 2006 model. We are having a ton of debates we're kind of curious with it being a cheaper older RV if the cost of traveling May benefit us in the long run staying in the RV compared to hotels airbnbs etc. We have one kid so size wise it would be perfect for us even if we have another. We do enjoy camping and traveling and I will have a decent amount of time coming up in 2027.

My cons are maintenance on an older RV and gas prices to travel places. My wife's pros is that we can stay wherever we want to for the night. She also believes it'll give us the opportunity to travel way more than we do since we'll have so much time off coming up. She also thinks it'd be really comfortable traveling in an RV with the baby compared to hotels.

We just want to get some opinions from someone that has maybe made this choice and maybe there's some things that you guys can hit us with that we haven't thought about yet we appreciate all the input and responses.

Good evening, hopefully someone here can guide me in the right direction. I know I know, “Forrest River junk”, “Covid Junk…” I get it and agree. It’s what I have.
The unit has three of the Dometic A/C units. The only one that works is the bedroom. (Thank God) but the living area and the mid do not work. The display screen says Mid Air Con and Living Air con disconnected. The 12 volt fuse on the panel for the
A/C’s doesn’t appear to have power.
All the plugs work in the trailer.

Things I have done:
1.)Changed the main batteries. (I did accidentally arc across the pos/neg🤬🤬🤬.)
2.) Checked shore power cord and voltages are correct. I changed the shore power cord anyway.
3.) Had Two new slide floors replaced in Living Area. Don’t know why or how this would have anything to do with the A/C’s but who knows.
4.) I unplugged from shore power and turned the master switch off to the batteries. For about thirty minutes and turned batteries back on for a while prior to plugging shore power back in. - Didn’t work…

Im not super savvy on the electrical side of things but I can check the obvious. One other thing I noticed was that the inverter screen is blank with a green light on.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

2000w inverter with plenty of batteries. Recently expired warranty and factory wired for inverter power only for the outlets, was considering wiring it to the whole camper so I can also use the microwave on it. I can use an automatic transfer switch for the whole camper through the inverter or just add the microwave to the outlets circuit inside the breaker, then when I’m plugged in I need to flip on the inverter to activate the pass through and outlets as I do now. Any reason this would be dumb?

So this is an RV roof of the one I plan to buy Starting my travel journey can anyone give me insight on this roof. Im in south Texas currently anf Im new to this rv living so I just want to make sure my roof is good condition. It feels hard all around sturdy around the fixtures. The only thing I don’t know how to feel about is the area around the skylight. You know when you glue a paper together and the paper lifts in the middle but the sides are still glued down it’s not bad but it’s definitely noticeable when feeling it. I’m new to this any tips.

I might have forgotten to change my filters and might have been using this set of filters for about a year. Water didn’t smell funny but I did notice a slight drop in water pressure.

For $5,500* that is basically a UVC bulb, heater and series of screens and filters, diverter valve... sure seems like a not to difficult DIY project.

Yes, of course it would require minor careful maintenance.

NOTE: This post is focused on DIY suggestions not reactive personal emotions. Numerous city water systems have been using recycled water for decades that intake FAR more that just shower run off.

* Unit demo'd in this video is from The Infinite Shower https://www.instagram.com/reel/DVWXA0dAMA9/

Trying to move into this old rv. The shower head leaks on off and the hot and cold handles leak when on.

Is there a specific rebuild kit to save this unit. Or do I need to replace the whole unit. Also not sure of these fittings.

Would I undo the copper to 90.
Unscrew the 90 the.

Any help would be appreciated never worked with a shower but just did the kitchen sink.

Bathroom sink and toilet had no leaking issues.
Then unscrew the large part pressed up on the wall?