My first 3D-printed fingertip grip mouse, designed and modeled entirely by myself!

I used the internals from a VXE R1 SE and took inspiration from the Lamzu ORCUS.

The final weight is 45g.

For my next project, I'll try making an even smaller mouse!

Thanks for checking it out!

ey everyone!

I'm looking for a 3D-printable lightweight replacement shell for the Endgame Gear OP1 8K V2.

I want to keep the original shape and dimensions as close to 1:1 as possible, just with a lighter shell.

What I'm looking for:

• Full-size original OP1 shape and dimensions
• Compatible with the stock OP1 8K V2 PCB and internals
• A complete replacement shell, not just a lightweight base
• STL or 3MF files that I can print myself
• Definitely NOT a mini, fingertip, or smaller version

I've seen a few lightweight OP1 mods, but most of the files I could find are either mini versions or just base replacements.

Does anyone know of a publicly available model, have files they're willing to share/sell, or know someone who could make one?

I'm also willing to pay for the STL files or commission someone to design the shell.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Just leaving this here.

Another program that silences faulty mouse switches—which tend to release and re-press the button multiple times—allowing you to keep using your broken mouse instead of throwing it away and buying a new one.

It has no graphical interface, nor does it provide any notification that it is running. If you wish to terminate it, you must do so via the process manager.

It is written in C using the Windows API and is compatible with Windows 95 and later versions; a 64-bit version is also available.

Its file size is 4KB.

Here’s a breakdown of each components’ weight reduction:

• Outer Shell — 11.06g to 7.47g
• Inner Skeleton — 7.94g to 5.92g
• Main Buttons — 7.50g to 5.11g
• Side Buttons — 1.23g to 1.04g
• Scroll Wheel — 1.91g to 1.15g
• Base — 8.36g to 1.96g
• Battery — 4.77g to 2.43g
• Haptics — 3.48g

The scroll wheel is moddo’s Lite Scroll Wheel.

From using my X2 before this, I found I preferred playing with the haptics turned off. So for this mod I decided to remove the haptics entirely. Heads up, this does not impact the magnetic field of the HITS, only the tactile feedback you get when using the main buttons. My initial goal was to hit 35g while maintaining a (mostly) full sized, solid shell.

For the shell’s finish, I started with a 1000 grit sandpaper and worked my way up to 5000, then lightly buffed it with a microfiber cloth. This gave the shell its shiny look that is smooth when rubbing your fingers over it, but still sticks to my fingers during use. I was originally planning to add grip tape, but will be holding off as I’m pleasantly surprised with the current texture.

You can see in the last picture the weight reduction I did to the inner skeleton and the insides of each mouse button. Because I opted to remove the haptics entirely, this freed me up to also trim out the housing the haptic motors sat on.

Didn't want to charge my Delux m800 mini so I made a custom usb cable with 32 awg cables then removed the battery. Weight went down to 37 grams, now feels extra floaty.

Hi everyone, i'm making 2 mods that will get posted on cults3d and wanted some opinions on the holes pattern design. Both mods will include 3 versions (holes including clicks, holes only in the back of the shell, no holes). Shapes are inspired and not 1:1.

Scyrox v8/v8s mod:

Op1 shape upsized to 124.62 x 64.33 x 38.76

Forward sensor

35.38gr with dot skates and grips

Atk f1 v1/v2/v3 mod:

Egg xm2 shape inspired, size 124.63 x 67.04 x 38.55

Centered sensor

32.56gr with donut skates

Weights are in petg.

This mods where not made with the intent of going "super light" (since atk F1 and scyrox v8 are already really light) but more with the intent of having some shapes design at a weight that i never tried before, i've always wondered what the op1 feels like for people with small hands so I upsized it for my hand, and i wanted to try what a more forward sensor would feel like, so i made this scyrox mod. For the other one i just made the xm2 shape for the lightest PCB i own, so I could try what a light xm2 shaped mouse would feel like

So i'm making this post to ask what you guys think about the holes patterns, at first i thought i liked the triangle pattern i made on the scyrox mod but i don't like it anymore, instead i could do the standard triangle pattern like ipi float or something else if you have any recommendations. For the atk circle pattern I like It a lot but i still want to know what you guys think, since it's a really easy thing to change.

I hope to post the scyrox v8 next week, i sent the files to different testers and i'm waiting to get some opinions to change the last things.

I was wondering if there is any tech savvy wizard out there who can make this mod but for a op18k v2? Iasked the original owver of this how much i could pay them but no response

https://www.printables.com/model/1385951-kabrio-fingertip-mouse-mod-for-mad-r

I don't know how to put the Xraypad Obsidian Air dot skates on my Incott 029 mouse and I have an Mousepad Atk 99g Xsoft Green. The photo on the right is as it originally came.

Hey, I’m looking for a 3d printable base mod for the a9, and if anyone knows the A9 lineup, is the base compatible with the a9 air.

I want to mod my base A9 and try make it work with the a9 air and have the a9 air stock base too instead of modding it directly.

my palm gets really sweaty during sessions and i use my finger tips to micro adjust like push the mouse inward to controll recoild in cs2 and its hard to play i use the superlight 2 right now its so like really grimy and sticky so i cant micro adjust . what mouse do you recommend me trying?

Hey everyone, I'm looking for recommendations for a good gaming mouse under $100 CAD. I have Pachydermodactyly, which affects the shape and size of my fingers, so finding a comfortable mouse can be difficult for me. I'm looking for a mouse with well-positioned side buttons that are easy to reach and press, with enough space around them for my fingers. I don't really like mice where the left and right click buttons stop before the edge, like the Logitech G Pro X Superlight. I prefer a design like the Glorious Model O, where the left and right click buttons extend closer to the edges. I mainly want a mouse that feels comfortable, has a good sensor and low latency for gaming, doesn't have a hollow case like the Model O, and preferably has two side buttons that are practical for my thumbs. Wireless would be nice, but wired is fine too. My budget is under $100 CAD, and I'd appreciate any recommendations. Thanks!

This is my first mouse mod I’ve ever done and I think it turned out pretty good! (Could be a little cleaner) Didn’t save much weight (55g-51g) but it was a fun little project and there isn’t really much else I can do to reduce weight on this mouse. I’ve also tried to find posts on here or videos on YouTube of people modding this mouse but there seems to be none as of now

if the zen 8k mini (5% smaller viper v3 pro) hurts the left side of my palm is it a tension issue or a shape issue or possibly both?

if it is a shape issue should i buy a pulse 2.0 (lighter op1 8k) with v1 internals?

ROCCAT was retired as a brand in 2024 and Swarm II doesn't really support my Kone AIMO Remastered anymore, so I wrote my own settings app. It's free, open source, and unofficial.

What it does:

\- DPI stages, polling rate, sensitivity, angle snapping

\- Lighting: effect, speed, brightness and the color of all 11 LEDs, with a live preview on the mouse

\- Every button on the normal and Easy-Shift layers

\- All 5 profiles, backups, and a check at login that the mouse hasn't lost its settings

\- Settings are stored in the mouse itself, so they work on any PC without the app running

It also has a Blender page (shortcuts and macros), because I'm a 3D animator and built it for my own workflow. Ignore it if you don't use Blender.

Things to know:

\- Only tested on my own Kone AIMO Remastered (USB ID 1E7D:2E2C). Other models aren't supported.

\- The exe isn't code-signed, so Windows SmartScreen will warn you. Source is on GitHub if you want to check it or build it yourself.

\- It never touches firmware, and it saves a copy of your mouse's original settings the first time it connects.

\- Not affiliated with Turtle Beach or ROCCAT.

Download and source: [https://github.com/Valencia33/Kone-AIMO-Config\](https://github.com/Valencia33/Kone-AIMO-Config)

Feedback and bug reports are welcome, especially from anyone with the same mouse.

Estou tendo um problema com o mouse que eu já tentei de tudo e não consigo resolver, Ele parece um mouse fantasma na tela, pois o cursor se movimenta, e quando passa por cima de algum aplicativo em vez do aplicativo ficar mais claro mostrando que o mouse ta em cima, não acontece nada e também não consigo clicar com ele. Mas esse bug passa temporariamente quando eu aperto as teclas “Ctrl+Alt+Del” ou quando eu aperto o botão lateral do mouse ou o scroll mas depois de um tempo ele volta. E quando jogo valorant no meio da partida aparece o cursor do mouse piscando. Já troquei de mouse e não resolve também

Disclaimer: This is a semi-permanent mod and there is a high chance that you won't be able to revert it back to stock afterwards. And if you lack the dexterity there is a chance you might ruin your mouses shell so then i advise against doing this. If you still want to do it, then i suggest first testing this method on some other stuff to get used to working with this materials first. You can see the exact tools i've used here.

Hello!

I always wanted a mouse without a side button, and made one with the Lamzu Atlantis Mini on the right like a year ago. Recently there was an accident about my ATK A9 Plus on the left, which made it beyond repair, so i had to change it's battery and cut it in half and turn it into fingertip mouse. For this i also had to do the side button-less mod again, so decided to make a post about it.

I know this will be probably useless for most people, but thought it might be helpful to some people out there, even if one person finds this useful then it's worth it for me. I tend to post about niche things that's mostly not found anywhere anyways. And learning this carbonate method can help you with other repairs/mods aswell. You can create 3D pieces in whatever shape you want with it, for example i've done it when modding a controller here, and in many more ways and places over the years. Very useful for repairing cracks and broken parts aswell, it is very strong. I've even used it to repair a broken hinge of my old laptop in past. Anyways, so maybe:

- You are left handed, but the perfect shape mouse for you only comes in right handed version and you removed the side buttons already but dislike how it feels to hold.
- You prefer small mouse but have big hands or have a tight grip and side buttons get in your way.
- Or etc...

How to:

1) Disassemble your mouse and tape your side button holes from the outside like this.
2) Fill the side button holes with carbonate inside, and shape it with your finger like this. Then apply not more than 1-2 drops of super glue, if you apply more than carbonate can absorb it will stay liquid and move/leak around. Also be careful not to touch it even from the outside it will get hot for couple seconds when chemical reaction happening. Also don't stay too close and don't breathe the fumes, it will irritate your eyes. It will get hard as a rock in couple of seconds.
3) Afterwards you will end up with something like this. But it will be dented to the inside because of the tape.
4) So we need to mask around it from the outside this time, like this.
5) Then add more carbonate and shape it with your finger like this. Sweep the excess. The reason why not do this as the first step is because we don't want it to be paper thin and crack afterwards.
6) This time when applying glue, don't hold it directly on top. It might burp air out or the force from the glue droping down might ruin the carbonate shape you made. So instead hold it sideways, and gently let the drop of glue come to the side of the nozzle and touch it to the carbonate yourself, like this.

It is also important to be careful not to apply too much glue, because it might leak and go to places we don't want. Then the only choice left will be to apply acetone (which depending on the plastic type it might start to eat away your mouse shell) and try to scrape with your fingernails.

7) Then you will end up with this monstrosity in the end.
8) So we need to tape it around again to protect the mouse's coating as much as possible like this. Then cut the excess parts that sticks out around it with your knife and then sand it down the whole thing until it's flush with the rest of the shell, and it's finished.

It will never look perfect, but if done right it will feel very matte to the touch and hard to feel apart from the mouse shell and lower the weight of the mouse.

Also you can check if interested:

- About how to put mechanical switches in mouses that only supports optical switches, you can click here.

- About more in-depth look, comparison and some niche informations about mechanical and optical switches, you can click here.

Hope you find this useful and good luck!