Cash Beacon - one of my flagship wallets. This one has been heavily customised though - higher cash pocket, open internal pockets for easy access to hidden pocket, and the cash pocket has a massive skip stitch down the side, again for easy access to the cash pocket. This required A LOT of forward planing to make sure stitches lined up and keep things open. The reverse sides, where the stamp is, have been glazed with Tokonole for added protection. And the brand stamp inside the cash pocket was intentional. I love using Leder Ogawa shell cordovan, the finish is amazing, colour range is on point and its easier to work with than other shell brands. This is truly one of a kind. Hope you guys like it!

This was my first larger scale project to attempt. I’ve made a few notebook covers, valet trays, small satchels before. Decided that I want to make a few larger bags (a messenger bag, and a duffle) but wanted to practice a few aspects of that first so I made this laptop bag that is approximately 15” wide and 11” tall. Definitely learned a few things that will make my next attempts easier and tidier but overall I’m happy with it. Working with limited tools right now, cheap stitching punch and a few stamps, so everything is hand stitched which which is something I’m looking to improve on soon. What does everybody think?

i made this post almost a year ago now and realized i never shared my progress with all the lovely people who gave me advice! to keep it short, i did end up investing in the hobby and fell in love with it, did a few projects, and finally ended up making that choker for my girlfriend for her birthday. i’m pretty proud of how it came out but the charm broke off after she flew back home so im working on a new and improved one…haha

thanks to the people who talked some sense into me and encouraged me to try something new! 🩷

Some years ago, I started working with leather to make BDSM gear for me and my wife. It was solid, but not so beautiful.. :)

After learning more by making leather belts and wallets, I came back to where I started, and I’m really happy with the result!

Curious what you think!

This isn’t an ordinary machine-made boot—it’s an authentic Heritage Monkey Boot, meticulously hand-stitched piece by piece. Built with handpicked full-grain leather, a vintage lace-to-toe pattern, and a heavy-duty commando lug sole that stands strong from rocky trails to city streets. With time and wear, this chalk white leather only gains more character.
100% Handcrafted Leather
Classic Lace-to-Toe Fit
Rugged All-Terrain Grip

Regarding the card holder, the bottom card on both sides, how do we ensure that the bottom card doesn't slide the down and become hidden in use.

I hope my question is clear.

Little thing I made

Hey everyone, sharing a recent pair of high-ankle leather boots finished in our workshop.
• Upper: Full-grain genuine black leather, hand-lasted.
• Interior: Fully leather lined.
• Sole: Heavy-duty rugged lug sole, bench-crafted.
Added a benchwork shot of the sole construction. Would love to hear the community's thoughts on the silhouette and overall proportions!

(this image is not my work, if you know the creator lmk so I can credit them)

I'd like to make a pouch like this, and I'm confident my skills match the task. I'm just not sure how to approach the patternmaking of this! And the construction, too... My inclination would be to sew the soft panels to the front, then sew that assembly to the backpanel, but then I'm not sure what shape the soft panels need to be.

Any advice from someone who's made one of these, or a tutorial/pattern, would be appreciated. Thanks!

Made a little green Saffiano passport holder for one of the fellow redditors.

It's now off into the wild thanks to the reddit community 😊👍

Made another bag again sea creature inspired, this time by a clam. I used 2,7 mm (7 oz) veg tanned leather for the shells themselfes and chrome tanned leather for the "corners of the mouth", they hold what every is in the bag in while it is open and still keep it movable.

The space insight is surprisingly much. What is special about it in the crafting process for me is I had to reposition the attachments for the shoulder straps 3 times and setteled with both attachments on the same shell side, so it open easly away from the body which makes it super comfortable to use while wearing, which for me personally is also a big learning. The holes form the previouse tries I covered with rivets and since I already used a lot of rivets they do not stand out.

What do you think? Any ideas, improvements are welcome :)

What should I use instead to wipe away all of the antique paste that's compatible with resolene?

This is my first attempt at tooling anything, still very new to this in general. 4-5 oz economy veg tan from Tandy. Cut a D20 with a swivel knife and attempted to just textured bevel all the lines. I have some obvious mistakes like the slipped lines and alignment and the lines from shifting my beveler. Ive been watching some videos, specifically Joe Meling, and I think I know what to practice there.

However, my swivel knife cuts appear very sharp, bevelling doesn't seem to have smoothed them out much. Did I cut too deep, or not bevel deep enough? It feels difficult to line the bevel up with the cut since it has a curved back edge, is there a purpose to that design?

I am new to leather crafting and want to make a simple box sleeve for this small perfume bottle (a custom leather fragrance I made). The bottle is very small, about 4" H x 1" W x 1" D. For the template, I am thinking of just using a single piece cut into a cross shape, folding the four sides around the center base. I know making the corners look neat and box stitching them nicely is the hardest part. A couple questions:

1. Materials: I have a thin 1.1mm flatgrain chrome-tanned leather sheet and 0.4mm stiffener sheet. I don't know if the stiffener will be needed to hold shape on such a small bottle, but I got it just because it might be easier to for the glass to slide in-and-out instead of against the suede.

Besides the leather I have the following:

3mm Pricking Iron set, needles & 0.45mmthread, awls, wing divider, #0 beveler, exacto cutter, leather glue/cement, sandpaper, edge color, wax.

1. Construction: The main thing is I want it to stand upright rather than falling over. My concept is to cut a single piece in a cross (+) shape, base in center, then folding the corners around and box stitching the corners? Should I use the stiffener pieces and glue them to the internal sides or no?

2. Edges/Corners: If I do the box stitch, what's the cleanest way to stitch the edges and base corners? I don't think I'm capable of rolled edges and skivving, especially on such a small piece, but maybe that would give cleaner finish? Should I just bevel, sand, paint, and wax the corners?

Sorry if these are super basic questions, any advice would be appreciated!

Hey guys, I am going to buy a travellers notebook cover and am going to convert it into a wallet. I thought about at least stitching in a zipper pouch to the back of it myself. Do you guys think that is an appropiate beginners task?

Beginner looking for some wisdom and guidance :) I sewed up a sample, but obviously it’s a lot different working with fabric vs leather, and I can press these side panel seams flat with an iron when I’m using fabric. I was planning on sewing these two side seams and the bottom seam using a saddle stitch, right sides together, then flipping it inside out (kinda like you would sew with fabric). Would this technique even work with leather or is there a better hand stitch I could use (I dont have an industrial machine so I have to hand stitch).

If pressed the seams and used glue to flatten them, would it be be the same shape as above? I assume it depends on the stiffness of the leather. I think I would use a softer / more pliable leather for this project.

Any and all tips welcome and thank you!!!

Hello all, I usually use a round knife for cutting, as I find it gives me good control and lets me cut through a lot of layers easily..

However, I was told today that how I cut with it is wrong(or unusual at least).
I don’t do many push cuts, but instead pull cut with the handle in an ice pick grip, so that the handle is perpendicular with the leather. I find that this gives me good control as it lets me use my shoulder and hips to pull… however, apparently this is uncommon?

Am I doing this wrong? Should I learn how to push cut with a head knife?

Essentially I am working off a foam mock up using a different wolf mask pattern to assist me with creating a new pattern for a different wolf mask. I was thinking of wet molding the leather to give it a more wolf-like facial structure, rather than just having flatter look. For wet molding, should I make the pattern pieces bigger to accommodate the more 3d shape or is it generally fine to just leave the pattern pieces as is?

I’ve been doing leather work for about 7 months now and there’s still so much to learn and invest jn.

I’m trying to make a keychain/bag tag as a gift and I have a design on both pieces of leather. I plan on gluing and saddle stitching but how should I finish these edges so they are flush and burnishes properly?

This is 7oz Tandy leather and I’ve skived it as much as possible until my disposable blade broke. I can still take some off the edges but the middle is practically impossible. So the thickness is what it is at this point.
I’m also burnishing by hand with Angleus Burnish Gum.

I would love to make this look better than my last project (last picture). I do plan on upgrading my skiving knife and tokonole gum at some point but it’s not possible for this project. I’ll take all the advice you can give me!