Turns out my Wiz bulbs don't need the app or any encrypted API. I ran a network sniffer and after a few minutes found they just listen for plain JSON on UDP port 38899. Sending this sets a bulb to red:

{"method": "setPilot", "params": {"r": 255, "g": 0, "b": 0}}

Aleksandr Rogozin's blog post on hacking Wiz lights from the command line gave me a quick head start.

From there the weekend got away from me:

• A Python class to discover the bulbs and send on/off/color commands, wrapped in a FastAPI server with a basic HTML page for control from the browser.
• An audio visualizer that runs an FFT on mic input in real time. Bass (20-250Hz) drives red, mids (250-4000Hz) green, treble (4000-20000Hz) blue. I also added a pulse mode (warm white, brightness follows amplitude), a strobe mode for beats, and a multi mode where each bulb takes one frequency band.
• A DIY Ambilight using OpenCV that reads an mp4 frame by frame. One mode uses K-means to pick the dominant color of the whole frame. Another samples only the border pixels, like a real Ambilight. A hybrid mode takes color from the video and brightness from its audio track. I measured around 93ms latency.
• A stock indicator using the Groww Trading API. Green-ish if the price is above the day's open, red-ish if below, with brightness scaled to the size of the move. There's also a replay script that runs a historical trading day at 20x speed.

The UDP protocol was the easy part. The real problem was scope creep. What started as a custom light switch at the start of the weekend had me still going at 11PM with the video stuff.

The code for everything, from the basic API to the stock ticker, is on GitHub under myselfshravan/wiz-hack.

Rainy season is starting here in the PNW, so I’ve been researching where small household leaks go unnoticed. A few setup details seem more important than buying a big bundle:

• Warning vs. shutoff: a sensor can warn you, but stopping the water needs a compatible valve and a tested setup.

• Local sound vs. phone alerts: check whether the exact model needs a hub or internet, and test notifications with your phone locked.

• Placement: put the sensing contacts where water is likely to collect, while keeping the unit accessible for testing and battery changes. One sensor doesn’t cover a whole room.

• Clear names: “Water under kitchen sink” is more useful than “Sensor 03.”

• Maintenance: follow the manufacturer’s test instructions and set a reminder to check batteries and alerts.

Beyond the water heater, washer and under sinks, what less-obvious spot has caught a leak for you? And was a local alarm enough, or did you need a remote alert?

I’m trying to make my front door smart while keeping the existing Mul-T-Lock hardware/security if possible.
This is what the inside of the door looks like. The Mul-T-Lock has a pretty large thumbturn and is mounted on a metal reinforcement plate. There are also a couple of metal studs/nubs sticking out from the door near the lock, so I’m not sure if those would interfere with a retrofit smart lock.

I’ve been looking at the Aqara U200 and SwitchBot Lock Ultra. I’m leaning toward the U200 because I use Apple Home and really like the idea of Apple Home Key, but I’m not sure if it will physically fit over this setup.

Has anyone made a Mul-T-Lock setup like this smart without replacing the exterior cylinder?
Ideally I’d like to:
Keep the existing Mul-T-Lock and exterior key
Add Apple Home/Home Key if possible
Avoid drilling or permanently modifying the door
Still be able to manually unlock it normally
Use a retrofit lock on the inside
Would the U200 work here, or would the SwitchBot Lock Ultra/custom adapter be a better option? Also, are those metal studs near the lock likely to cause clearance issues?

An automation that breaks loudly gets fixed. A light that doesn’t turn on, you notice that evening.

The ones that worry me are the silent kind. Say an automation turns on a fan when a humidity sensor goes above a threshold. If that sensor drops off the network, nothing errors. The automation just never triggers again, and everything looks fine until the day you’d have needed it.

The cheapest guard I know of is a separate automation that only watches for the sensor going unavailable:

automation:
  - alias: "Sensor unavailable for a while"
    trigger:
      - platform: state
        entity_id: sensor.bathroom_humidity
        to: "unavailable"
        for: "00:30:00"
    action:
      - service: notify.mobile_app_my_phone
        data:
          message: "Bathroom humidity sensor has been unavailable for 30 min"

A few notes on the choices:

• the for: delay avoids a notification every time a device reconnects briefly
• one watcher per important sensor is repetitive, so a group or a template that lists unavailable entities may scale better
• newer Home Assistant versions use a slightly different key layout (triggers: with - trigger: state), and the old one still works, so check what your version expects

What this doesn’t cover: a sensor that stays “available” but is stuck on a stale reading, which looks healthy and is wrong. That one is harder, and I haven’t found a clean general answer.

How do you handle it? Do you monitor sensor health separately from the automations that use them, or just accept that you’ll notice eventually?

Just got a smart toilet off wayfair (canada) and installed, I can’t seem to figure out how to turn off the automatic lid open/close function.

I’ve checked the manual, nothing in the manual works, and have tried pressing and holding the button to ‘turn off’ the function. Still no luck…..

So looking for an alternative to the smart displays like the nest hub, Amazon echo show, etc that I can use with 4 goals.

All one box with speaker, display, and some kind of computer

Able to use it to control Home Assistant

Able to play video from Plex/YouTube

Voice features would be a great addition but not a requirement.

Been looking at trying to build something with a radxa rock, a pi 4/5, or other sbc with a 7-10 inch touch display, power supply, and speakers. But don't have the best mind for cad drawings in 3d prints to get it accomplished and just worried that it will work. So trying to see if anyone may have a similar setup or found a good alternative

I know there is a lot of discussion regarding building DIY version of the Skylight calendars… but I need some input and to toss around ideas.

My wife has been asking for a Skylight for at least a year now and I keep telling her I will try to DIY a solution instead of forking out the money for one 😁

It needs to be touchscreen so it’s easy for the whole family to use instead of just a display. But the real roadblocks are:
1) she would like it to be larger… like 27-32”!
2) We homeschool so she basically wants it to act as a digital whiteboard also. Thinking like second monitor or “cast” her iPad to it or something of the sorts.

Has anyone had any luck with those IR touch frames? That would definitely be a cheaper option than the $1k touchscreen monitors I am seeing at that size. Any other thoughts? I am not afraid of adb sideloading, “jailbreaks”, and any other tinking.

My dear fellow home automators,

The home automation space is progressing fast, and I find it hard to keep up with all the latest gadgets and standards. I am hoping you can share some guidance for my next project.

My only experience so far is with KNX and Home Assistant. I know about Zigbee, Z-Wave, Matter, etc. but have no practical experience with it.

For context: my current KNX-heavy setup, and why I hate it

In my current place I am quite deep in the KNX ecosystem: room controllers, climate systems, lights and blinds with centralized actuators, the whole shebang.

I run Home Assistant (on a HA Green) on top of it, which is nice for fine-grained control and fancy dashboards. If HA is down, the underlying crude KNX setup continues working. And because of HA, I started introducing some non-KNX stuff into the overall setup.

I have slowly developed a deep hate for KNX though.

• Every little thing in KNX is so ridiculously expensive. I am jealous of the prices of non-KNX smart hardware.
• I dread booting up ETS, knowing a trivial task will probably become another frustrating time sink. The module firmware ecosystem feels incredibly dated and limited.
• Sure, KNX is distributed... if you design it properly. I still run everything on a single KNX bus, because it's too time-intensive and expensive to run multiple. If the bus power fails or it gets flooded by a rogue sensor, all the wall switches still stop working. Who am I fooling.

What I would love my next setup to look like

I am likely moving houses within a year or so, and want to take my learnings from my current setup to improve the next one.

So given what I love and hate about my KNX setup, for my next project I would like to:

• Not get locked in again in a single ecosystem — especially a proprietary one
• Continue using HA for fine-grained control, but ensure basic house functions work without it
• Ensure it is easily configurable without requiring apps, hubs, extensive programming, etc. — I suppose web interfaces are the way to go
• Remove the 'single KNX bus' SPOF that I have today, and be careful not to introduce any new SPOFs for the whole house
• Continue having centralized actuation for lights and blinds in the breaker board

I really, really like that last point. I am enjoying the ease of maintenance and extensibility of having centralized actuation.

For example, a month ago I added two wall sconces in my kitchen. Now my (KNX) kitchen light switch triggers three (KNX) actuators at once: the ceiling light and the two sconces. Without requiring HA to orchestrate anything.

The dumbest smart lighting I can think of

As I started designing my next setup from scratch, I (of course) want to start with lighting. With the above wishlist in mind, I am ending up thinking I should keep the setup as dumb as possible. So for each room, I would have:

dumb momentary switch -> (room-specific) smart actuator -> dumb lightbulb(s)

For example, I found the Shelly Pro 4PM actuator. It has a web interface and supports MQTT. If it fails, the blast radius is limited to only the lights in that one room. And, it can seemingly even take an analog input from an old school momentary switch to trigger one or more of its outputs.

Replacing the dumb wall switch with a (semi-)smart one would also work, of course, as long as its easy to configure and uses some open protocol. I cannot find any such switches, however. Most seem to come with a hub or an app, or force you to use some built-in actuator.

I'm finding it surprisingly hard to find any alternatives similar to this Shelly setup. It seems like in most cases I have to give up at least one of my design principles.

What do you guys think? Am I thinking in the right direction with my design principles? Is this Shelly setup I found truly unique within these principles, or am I missing some obvious (and possibly better) alternatives?

I'm hopeful to find some people on here that have more experience with this whole topic than I do. 😁

Hello everyone,

I've been looking to buy a Smart door lock for my home, but I am unable to find any options with UWB in europe. It seems that you can make the U400 work, but that its not 100% supported. Even new releases like the LG doesn't seem to have any options in Europe. Is there no future releases that are not too far away, or should I assume that there wont be any releases or any available options any time soon?

Looks like Zooz got bought out. We'll see how this goes, but I don't think Jasco has a great history, right?

I just received this email from Zooz:

We have some big news to share!

Zooz and The Smartest House are joining the Jasco family, and we’re excited about what comes next. This new chapter gives us more resources to grow while keeping the experience our customers already know and trust.

You’ll continue shopping through The Smartest House just as you do today, with your existing account and order history, the same commitment to support, competitive pricing, and fast fulfillment.

What stays the same

• Your Smartest House account and order history

• The Zooz brand and products you know

• Our customer support

• Competitive pricing

• Fast fulfillment

• The same focus on helping you build a smarter home

What’s new

• More resources for product development and innovation

• Expanded operational and distribution support

• More opportunities to grow Zooz and The Smartest House

• Potentially faster delivery for some customers

• 50% of Jasco’s net profits from the Zooz brand will support charitable causes

We’re incredibly grateful to everyone who helped us get here, and we’re excited to have you with us for what comes next!

I've tried everything, and none of the devices or apps want to work together.

HUE doesn't see IKEA stuff.

SmartThings only sees HUE bridge, but can't access it.

I have no idea how to connect them. They all support Matter, which is why I bought it all. And because the IKEA DIRIGERA hub has been unavailable in my county for... well forever.

Please help, I'm so close to just binning the HUE and keep using the IKEA lights with the IKEA buttons, no hub or anything.

I'm currently looking at Nest thermostats, but the fourth generation is about $200.

Quite a few recommendations for Honeywell T6

Are there other options that would allow me to control temperature and automations through HAOS and via a dashboard I create?

I'm trying to automate as much of the yard work as I can because I'm tired of spending my weekend in it. Recently got the Rachio 3 installed so the irrigation is mostly done. It's easy to use. Next up is figuring out a robot mower. My plan is to have the sprinklers run in early morning, give the grass enough time to dry, and send the mower out later.

My yard is around 7,000 sq ft with mostly flat terrain. There are a few trees and small shrubs it would need to work around. I've watched a bunch of YouTube reviews, but so many of them feel sponsored and can't tell which model is good.

I'd love to hear from people who actually own one. How reliable has it been? Does it get stuck around trees or lose its position? How much trimming do you still have to do manually? I'm especially interested in boundary-wire-free models (Navimow and Mammotion seem popular in discussion). Any help is appreciated.

What were the biggest pain points? What would have been helpful to know when you were starting your home automation journey?

I came across the XKNX Editor and thought it was worth sharing here, as I have not seen much discussion about it yet:

https://github.com/XKNX/xknx-editor

It is an open-source, cross-platform KNX project editor based on XKNX. According to the project, it can import and export .knxproj files, interact with KNX devices, recover project information from the bus, and includes MCP support for AI-assisted project work.

For anyone who works with KNX and feels the limitations or cost of ETS, this looks like a very interesting project to follow.

That said: it is still a young, experimental project. I would currently treat it as a lab/testing tool and keep verified ETS backups before attempting any programming changes on a live installation.

Has anyone here already tried it with a real project or compared its import and programming behaviour with ETS?

made a free site, https://jack-o.io . open it on any spare phone, put it in the pumpkin, and it glows and talks to whoever walks up. no hub or app needed. happy halloween

Hey r/homeautomation,

I built a flip-down mount for a kitchen tablet. It hangs under the wall cabinet, I pull it down to cook and push it back up flat when I’m done. The display wakes up by itself when it comes down and goes off when it’s stowed.

The mount

• A Ganter GN 437 friction hinge (40 mm) holds the tablet at any angle.
• The hinge is bolted to a 2 mm aluminium plate with two countersunk M3 screws, and the plate is glued to the back of the tablet with 3M VHB tape. Nothing is drilled into the tablet.
• Two stacked pot magnets in the cabinet floor hold it when it’s flipped up.
• A short 90° flat USB-C cable and a USB-C coupler stay fixed on the tablet, so only the charging cable moves. It loops over the hinge axis and runs under the cabinet, covered with furniture film in the cabinet colour.

I screwed the hinge and the magnets into the cabinet floor. Gluing them is the recommended way, I just didn’t.

The app

The tablet runs a small Android home app made for this mount. It reads the accelerometer: flipped down past 50 degrees it wakes the display into the recipe list, flipped up it locks the screen. The rest is a kiosk view of my self-hosted Mealie (no app bar, big buttons for meal plan and shopping list) and offline voice commands in cook mode, German only for now. It only talks to your own Mealie server, other hosts are blocked.

Limits:

• Tested on one tablet only, a Samsung Galaxy Tab A7 Lite (SM-T220, Android 14). The wake-up needs a few adb commands, some of them Samsung-specific. They’re all in the README.
• It’s built around Mealie. Without a Mealie server the app has nothing to show.

Build guide with parts list, drawings and photos: https://it-baer.github.io/mealie-kiosk/

Repo: https://github.com/IT-BAER/mealie-kiosk

Hi everyone!
I'm from Canada and looking for an affordable 3D hologram fan (POV LED display) with decent image quality for a Python AI assistant project.
I'd like to automatically upload and switch between pre-recorded animations using Python, preferably over Wi-Fi, without manually using an app.

What hologram fans are you using?

Has anyone successfully automated one with Python?
I'm looking for recommendations based on personal experience, ideally with a specific model or brand.
Thanks!

so i have free internet (spectrum 100mbs) and its been fine until we started connecting a bunch of smart home stuff. its running on a super old google mesh system. “my plan” was to leave all the smart home / tv stuff on that spectrum system and get att fiber for computers and phones. house is 3,000 square feet. i’m having trouble setting it up, guessing it’s because i need to move the new modem out of the garage because the door is metal and there’s a tesla charger by the modem / mesh pod. it’s a temp setup until i run a conduit from the garage under the house.

I didn’t even think to research this before I got the fiber installed. can i run two separate mesh signals in the same house ? or will they interfere with each other even though theyre connected to different modems and service providers? the old ones wifi 5 i think and the new one is wifi 7. or are my “problems“ all the metal and electrical equipment right next to the modem and router? the tesla charger is pulling a lot of juice and was connected when i was setting it up. i looked around online before posting and didn’t really find much information on this desired setup.

would hate to cancel my free internet, but i guess fiber speeds would be worth it. i know i can set up all the smart home stuff on a separate channel through the mesh system and max it out at 50-100 mbs, but really didn’t want that crap clogging up my fiber if i dont have too.

don’t even have fiber running yet and i’m already becoming a bandwidth snob…