One of the GR Test Drivers just posted this on Twitter.

I first test drove a manual October last year. Liked it enough to put an order down this July. The dealership I ordered from then received an automatic last week, and of course I test drove that as well in the name of science.

I don't recall anything that's particularly bad, but critically, it doesn't impress as a sports car. It feels like driving a standard commuter car, just happens to be rwd. Yeah the chassis is stiff, the rear axle rotates and all, but fun factor is nowhere close. I won't feel the same urge to take an auto on a weekend drive as I would a manual. It's almost like the engineers are begging you to buy the manual.

Those who are able to drive or learn manual, but chose the auto, why bother with something impractical if what you want is commuter car experience? A Golf GTI would have made more sense if you want fun but aren't committed.

(Pic for attention. This will be my spec.)

Had an absolute blast, happened to show up on the week of gtr vs dragon.
Insta: Halllogan.86

Posting a tutorial on it is to create an ON/OFF switch for your ASC (active sound control) module since I haven’t found a complete one doing this before. Hopefully this will be helpful for those interested in having something like this.

I wanted to toggle Active Sound Control (ASC) without permanently disabling it. I didn't want to cut factory wires or drill/modify any interior panels, and wanted a small button that blends in rather than a big flashy switch.

I built a removable inline harness for the ASC and connected a small latching ON/OFF button. It cost around $25 in materials (excluding tools, tax, and shipping).

I haven’t decided where I want to mount this yet, but I’m thinking this is a nice discrete spot that I can reach easily while driving and I'll use double sided tape for easy removal.

Harness and Switch Parts List

- TE 1376106-1 connector housing x 1
- TE 1318386-1 connector housing x 1
- TE 1376109-1 male terminals x 8 needed (recommend buying double in case you are new to crimping like me)
- TE 1123343-1 female terminals x 8 needed (recommend buying double in case you are new to crimping like me)
- 22 AWG stranded automotive wire
- Small MUQIDA latching ON/OFF button

Tools

- Open-barrel crimper

- wire stripper/cutter

- trim-removal tool.

Optional but handy:

- Soldering iron (I soldered my switch to the harness connections but you can use your wire connector of choice)

- Multimeter (I recommend a multimeter for checking the harness connections and troubleshooting)

- Terminal pin ejector tool (incase you mess up the pin position)

Instructions

1. Building the Harness

Cut 7 equalish length wires and crimp a male and a female terminal on each end. I recommend watching some youtube videos on how to crimp, because I did mine all wrong the first time and wasted 16 pins (hence the recommendation to buy extra). This was honestly the hardest part to get right.

Then connect the wires into the harness, with the male side into the male harness, and female side into the female harness. Run pins 1, 3, 4, 9, 11, 12, and 16 straight through, matching pin numbers into the connectors. If you don’t know how to do this, there might be some youtube videos online, but there is a locking tab in the middle of each connector that you have to raise by 2mm in order to insert the wires.

Route pin 15 (ASC speaker negative) through the two-wire ON/OFF button. I soldered the wires and insulated the joints between the harness and the button. Optionally check with the multi meter to make sure all connections are good. Follow the molded cavity numbers in the picture below, not the apparent left/right positions. Male and female housings are mirrored.

2. Dash Removal

Remove the passenger-side dash end panel and lower the glovebox. Plenty of videos online on how to remove the dash end panel (search “fake sound asc brz gr86 delete”) and glovebox (search “subaru cabin air filter replacement”). The ASC module is behind the passenger dash on the right side.

From those two removals, you should be able to access everything you need for this install. You also have to remove the glovebox damper thing, which is just held on by one clip:

From here, you can unhook the harness easily by reaching in from the right side of the dashboard and pressing down on the clip while pulling down.

3. Connect All The Things

Plug the adapter between the factory connector and ASC module. 

Then route the small switch wherever you want. I just pulled across the bottom of the glove box below the cabin air filter and down the left side of the glove box. And you are done!

Don't want to crimp a whole harness?

Hachi Electronics sells an ASC CAN Adapter for 2022+ BRZ/GR86 starting around $40 that you could splice directly

Credit to DocWalt's 2022 BRZ adapter post for the connector part numbers and the Japanese BRZ ASC switch DIY blog for the installation inspiration.

Disclaimer

This is my first tutorial post and I'm not an expert, so feedback is welcome!

I live in Japan, and a friend told me that if I’m going to run ADVAN A052 tires and TE37 wheels, I need to add a GT wing. Otherwise, my car will look unfinished and tacky.
Personally, I prefer ducktail spoilers, but I haven’t changed my tires or wheels yet. I’d love to hear your opinion. What do you think?

Drop pics of your mags for your brz.

Good day all, im looking for my first sports car as a secondary car, its my first time getting a low vehicle and i am torn between these two, i know its totalally different series of cars but these two i liked mostly, didnt have the chance to drive any of these but rode a GR86 and felt a bit cramped.

Those who tried these two vehicle what do you think is fun car and sometimes going to track.

Anyone received a 2027 model year 86, i was told today that mine should arrive by the end of this month! If you have one with the red interior id like to see some pics.

Any reason people don’t do both holes?