I live in Japan, and a friend told me that if I’m going to run ADVAN A052 tires and TE37 wheels, I need to add a GT wing. Otherwise, my car will look unfinished and tacky.
Personally, I prefer ducktail spoilers, but I haven’t changed my tires or wheels yet. I’d love to hear your opinion. What do you think?
Posting a tutorial on it is to create an ON/OFF switch for your ASC (active sound control) module since I haven’t found a complete one doing this before. Hopefully this will be helpful for those interested in having something like this.
I wanted to toggle Active Sound Control (ASC) without permanently disabling it. I didn't want to cut factory wires or drill/modify any interior panels, and wanted a small button that blends in rather than a big flashy switch.
I built a removable inline harness for the ASC and connected a small latching ON/OFF button. It cost around $25 in materials (excluding tools, tax, and shipping).
I haven’t decided where I want to mount this yet, but I’m thinking this is a nice discrete spot that I can reach easily while driving and I'll use double sided tape for easy removal.
Cut 7 equalish length wires and crimp a male and a female terminal on each end. I recommend watching some youtube videos on how to crimp, because I did mine all wrong the first time and wasted 16 pins (hence the recommendation to buy extra). This was honestly the hardest part to get right.
Sample wire
Then connect the wires into the harness, with the male side into the male harness, and female side into the female harness. Run pins 1, 3, 4, 9, 11, 12, and 16 straight through, matching pin numbers into the connectors. If you don’t know how to do this, there might be some youtube videos online, but there is a locking tab in the middle of each connector that you have to raise by 2mm in order to insert the wires.
Route pin 15 (ASC speaker negative) through the two-wire ON/OFF button. I soldered the wires and insulated the joints between the harness and the button. Optionally check with the multi meter to make sure all connections are good. Follow the molded cavity numbers in the picture below, not the apparent left/right positions. Male and female housings are mirrored.
Obligatory AI generated harness imageIRL picture of the harnessPictures of my first harness and I was too lazy to measure the wire length, go easy on me :)
2. Dash Removal
Remove the passenger-side dash end panel and lower the glovebox. Plenty of videos online on how to remove the dash end panel (search “fake sound asc brz gr86 delete”) and glovebox (search “subaru cabin air filter replacement”). The ASC module is behind the passenger dash on the right side.
From those two removals, you should be able to access everything you need for this install. You also have to remove the glovebox damper thing, which is just held on by one clip:
From here, you can unhook the harness easily by reaching in from the right side of the dashboard and pressing down on the clip while pulling down.
3. Connect All The Things
Plug the adapter between the factory connector and ASC module.
Then route the small switch wherever you want. I just pulled across the bottom of the glove box below the cabin air filter and down the left side of the glove box. And you are done!
4th oil change at 12,000 miles. Never had any metal shavings until now. Always used 5w30 with half a quart overfill. Did it finally happen to me? Should I take it to a dealer? It’s still under warranty but I’m worried they won’t warranty it.
Edit: to answer some questions
1. Yes the oil and filter will be sent out to blackstone for lab testing.
2. Using 5W30 and overfilling is how you PREVENT these cars from blowing up when driven hard (which is the whole point of this car), NOT the cause of it. This has been pretty consistently documented and tested and verified for the platform.
3. Yes the car has been tracked, but it’s meticulously taken care of because it’s almost exclusively driven on the track and in the canyons. Already 5 oil changes by 12000 miles.
4. Oil temperature was always monitors and never had overheating issues.
UPDATE: My friends cousin managed to get out the stripped bolt out for me but he mentioned how he’s going to rethread the hole since it did get messed up he said he’s gonna try to make it work with the oem part I reordered but if anything we might need to go with a bigger bolt my question is
(and I have attached an image because I suck at explaining)
The red highlighted part is the bolt that was replaced if we end up going with a bigger one will I have an issue connecting it to the orange highlighted areas? Sorry for the rough wording hopefully it made sense!
I know this is pretty low miles especially for daily driving but I just happen to live in a really small town (Athens, GA) so it doesn’t take much to get around the whole area plus I live close to work.
I have done 2 track days, dozens of mountain drives, tail of the dragon once, and a couple road trips to Florida in this car. It’s been a fantastic daily and I cant wait for the next however many miles.