I've always been scared of owning any ford model but enjoyed them from afar and riding in them. Like when i was 20 i remember shopping for my "first" car and test drove a ford fusion and loved it (im glad i steered away from that one though lol). My older sister ran through Escapes like they were made of paper which made me even more scared of ever owning one. But wow i finally own one and im not regretful yet. I absolutely love it---

My only concern is that its a high mileage past rental vehicle that was part of a fleet with 96k miles. Everything about it feels new and it drives like its not even pushing 20k miles. Im wondering what i need to do to keep it this way and ive read the guide, handbook, and a few other posts here but I'm still unsure of whether or not to immediately get the car serviced for a transmission fluid flush or if its too late at this point...im also scared of getting screwed by a mechanic or better yet a mechanic screwing the transmission.

When you keep a vehicle for years, it’s usually the interior wear-and-tear that starts aging it faster than the mechanical side.

I’ve seen older Edges where the driver-side seat bolster cracks, the steering wheel leather starts peeling, or the center console buttons get gummy. The other big battle is the front carpets—once road salt, mud, and slush soak through generic mats, getting that ground-in grime completely out is a nightmare.

For those trying to keep the cabin looking fresh:

Did you stick with factory mats, or switch to deep-dish molded liners (Husky, WeatherTech, 3W, etc.) early on to save the floor pans?

What part of your Edge’s interior held up surprisingly well, and what’s the one spot you wish you’d protected from day one?

I just don't seem to understand how these settings work. I have cabin temp set to 72 degrees (both sides). Seat and Steering were "off" when I parked the car after work. Next morning, outside temp was in 50's. Seat and Steering wheel heat were "on" when I started the car - which was fine. When I left for home that afternoon, the outside temps was 82 degrees. When I started the car, both the Seat and Steering wheel heat was "on".

The reverse has happened when the Seat Cooling was activated and AC was turned on...the next morning, the temps were below the 72 degree setting, but the A/C was on as well as the Seat Cooling.

I have tried the Auto setting and it does not seem to matter. I thought maybe a Sync3 firmware update was needed, but it seems to be at the current version. Maybe this is just the way it works.

Have 2013 Edge SEL. Started making "whomp whomp whomp" sound when making turn from a stop. Not every turn but enough to get it checked out. No other noises or issues. They told me it was the rear differential. They "unplugged" the rear differential so now it doesn't make the noise. He said it's safe to drive as it is, it's just not AWD now. Is this correct? Can it really be driven indefinitely with it just unplugged or will it cause more damage or be unsafe?

While I was driving a wrench symbol came on the dash what does that mean?

I'm just outside my warranty at 105000kms is it possible that my PTU is not failing. Wondering if anyone has experienced the same problems. I have not heard any noise just AWD fault service required. In the dashboard. I had the RDU replaced last summer under warranty.

I've got a 2013 Ford Edge SEL with the powered seats. Three driver seat will move backwards, but not forwards using the controls.

Is there a way to manually release the motor so I can slide the seat forward? TIA

We purchased this about 3 weeks ago. Love this car. It it so smoth and quiet.

Cant wait to get the power sport red calipers with them so exposed now

That was my helpers face when lifted the whole car, hope he torqued them down otherwise i wil share the same face.

Just joined and wanted to show off my 2016 Sport!!

I own a 2013 ford edge SEL, it currently has 192,000 miles and the biggest issue at the moment is it needs a bank 1 catalytic converter. Other than that she runs good. Definitely a work horse and means business because for the past 6 months my wife has been driving 4 hours a day Monday thru Thursday and we have taken it to Mexico 3 times. Thankfully she doesn’t do that drive anymore but it took care of her. What have you guys done to ensure it runs healthy and problems have you encountered along the way, I’d love to see 200,000 and up.

Please help me out! I’m going to check this car out tomorrow but some of the things I’ve read online makes me a tad nervous 😬

2008 Ford Edge SEL front wheel drive– $3,100

109k miles! Nice SUV with plenty of room and a comfortable ride. Great everyday driver.

Comes freshly inspected.

Just purchased this cream puff 2014 Ford Edge. Only has 38k on it. Obviously garaged. Still smells new. No scratches or dings. One issue though.

A low end rumbling that starts at 50 + mph. Tires were original with decent tread but I replaced them with new Michelins with an alignment & balancing. (Sound was there with original 2014 tires & I thought that was the issue). I checked all plastic coverings underneath & everything is tight. Trans fluid, front (PTU) and rear differencial fluids were changed. I was thinking it's the torque convertor, but mechanic doesn't think so & this is the second mechanic that has checked it out. Hub/ wheel bearings good. The sound persists when I hit the brakes while giving gas and in neutral - so not torque converter? Wondering if I should change trans fluid 3 more times or try adding shudder fix. Seems odd with only 38k on it. The rumble is not super loud but annoying. Any suggestions?

Thx all!

I've got 350mm vented front rotors.

It seems there's two different brake pads available for the configuration but without taking the tire off, I'm not sure which one.

Even a visit to the ford parts site isn't a help even after inputting my VIN.

It's nuts. One would think that given the VIN, there wouldn't be so many types.

Looking for help with my wife's 2017 Edge Panorama sun roof. Hit open switch, motor activates, pushes window up maybe 1". Then immediately retracts to a completely closed position. Tried lubing tracks. Also found on YouTube to re-program. Did not work, but TBH, not sure if I did it correctly. Hoping for a simple, inexpensive fix. Not important enough to me, to spend any $$ on repairing this. Wife knows exactly how I feel about having purchased a vehicle with a hole in the roof and paid extra for it.

I'm currently driving a 2016 Ford Edge Titanium and I love it. It has almost 130,000 miles on it. I'm ready for a "new" vehicle now and I would really like to buy a 2024 Edge Titanium. From what I've seen, they have good reviews, but I'm a little hesitant to buy one that's already 3 years old. Besides that, the low mileage ones I've found are $35K - $39K. I can buy a brand new Honda CR-V for that (the other vehicle I'm considering). Also, my mechanic pointed out that the Honda will be easier to sell later on. That isn't a high priority for me but is something to consider. I just hate that there are no other vehicles the same size as the Edge - it was perfect for me. A friend has a Hyundai Tuscon and likes it a lot, but I haven't been able to get past the low quality image it had for many years. I guess I'm asking for opinions/recommendations. Any help will be much appreciated.

Probably pretty subjective, but what (especially with geopolitics) have y’all been paying for fluid changes? I (Michigan)just had my 2020 ST (55,500) to my local shop and I paid about $740 for them to do the oil change and filter, transmission flush and fill, the RDU and the PTU. I did pay for all AMSOIL over motorcraft so that could drive it up a bit but it’s not THAT much more.

Also PLEASE do your PTU. I paid for amsoil severe gear 75W and for them to flush out the old Motorcraft fluid (never had been changed) that basically turned into black sludge. You can really tell the difference. It’s not that much in the grand scheme of keeping things working.

Is anyone receiving offers from dealerships for your Edge? I'm getting dealership offers in the mail and email for my 2022 Edge. I'm curious if anyone else is getting them too, or if you had received an offer and accepted it, what was your experience?

Hi everyone I hope you are all having a good day. I was looking for some input on issues I’ve been having with my 2013 3.5l recently.

About a month ago I noticed that once in a while (maybe once every other week) it would hesitant when I was trying to accelerate. Almost as if it was going into limp mode, I could press the gas pedal completely to the floor and there would be no response. Just would slow down. This didn’t happen at specific speeds/gears and it was very intermittent. The only way to get the car moving again was to take my foot off the pedal and put it back on, then it would drive normally for a bit.

Started happening more often, and my wrench light/icon came on. I brought it to a Ford dealer and they said it was the brake pedal switch (in their words, it was misaligned and was sending incorrect signals to the computer).

It drove fine for a couple days after they replaced it, but then the issue came back. It’s weird because that day I had driven it for almost 2 hours completely fine, then out of nowhere I started losing power again, worse than before.

After their second look at it they said the ABS module is having an electronic failure.

It’s a expensive repair, so I picked it back up from them. Drove perfectly fine on the ~15 mile ride home. Not to say I don’t think there’s something wrong, but it seems very intermittent.

I was curious if anyone has had this problem before and what the answer ended up being. If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it tons.

Has anyone experienced an rattling or rubbing sound coming from the back of the sun roof area while driving I had the wife drive and me in the back feeling around it coming from the headliner area I couldn't get my hand back there to try and feel for anything with out bending the liner

Started the car to leave for work Wednesday morning and only got about 4 blocks before the whole vehicle started shaking like crazy and the check engine light started flashing. Car was running fine with no warning lights or issues just 2 days before, and was parked at home in between. The only thing that changed from Monday to Wednesday was a drop in the local temperature.

Limped into the neighborhood garage around the corner, and the shop owner hooked up his tester. He didn't show me the readout, but said there was an misfire code on one of the back row plugs (#2) and another code related to its fuel injector. His shop doesn't do engine work, but he said if he was going to work on it, he would start by pulling the back row plugs and coils and looking at the lifters (have to remove the manifold anyways to get to the back row plugs).

Checked the oil and both the color and level are fine (doesn't look like coolant intrusion, see history below). Threw in some Red Line fuel system cleaner just in case the last tank of gas was bad or something might be blocking or fouling the fuel injection system. Left it idling for 30 minutes but no change. Loud lifter sound from back row persists at idle and gets louder with any level of acceleration.

Scheduled a tow to my regular mechanic on monday.

Vehicle history--

2013 SEL 3.5L FWD, 200000 mi

*Cooling system overhauled 2 months ago after repeated overheats (water pump, timing chain, coolant reservoir, thermostat, fan assembly). No signs of coolant intrusion before or after repair

*All 6 spark plugs, coils, and wiring replaced in 2024. (Motorcraft SP589 plugs and Motorcraft DG520 coils)

*Oil changed religiously twice per year (Pennzoil full synthetic 5w20 + Wix filter)

Suggestions appreciated, please and thank you.