Title basically says it all. Have a 2016 fiesta st. Absolutely love the car. Kept up with all my regular maintenance. The only problems I’ve had up until now is a very peculiar overheating problem on extremely hot days (99* or higher) while going up hill. I lost power and the check engine light was flashing on my way to work. Made it to work and managed to check the spark plugs after a day and numbers 3&4 were SOAKED in oil. Just got the pictures from my mechanic and the cylinders are absolutely soaked in oil as well. Idk if there’s coolant in the oil yet but there’s definitely gasoline mixing with the oil somewhere.

Basically my question is am I absolutely cooked? Should I even bother rebuilding? I wanted to keep this car as long as possible. I love having it as a fun but practical daily. But now I’m considering other options just to be financially responsible.

Any help and advice would be appreciated.

After the new tires got put on I figure I'd have my alignment checked... And it was way off. Here's the before and after. Did I screw up asking for zero toe? I've heard zero toe is a good balance of aggressive and daily driving, so I went with it.

Hi all, wondering if anyone who’s installed aftermarket DRLs, RGB angel eyes or custom headlights on a UK Mk7.5 Fiesta could help.

I’ve fitted aftermarket headlights to my 2016 Fiesta ST-Line 1.0 EcoBoost (Yes I know not ST but still applies). The main headlights work perfectly but the RGB halos have a separate 12V Lotus Lamp controller with loose power wires.

I’m looking to power the controller using a piggyback fuse adapter in the engine-bay fuse box, ideally from an ignition-switched circuit so it powers off with the car.

I’ve looked through the Ford fuse diagrams and found several unused positions (F18, F20-F22, F30-F31), but can’t establish whether any actually provide ignition-switched power.

I’ve also seen American Fiesta ST owners use F26, although that position has a different function on UK models.

So… I ask
Has anyone successfully used an ignition-switched fuse in the engine-bay fuse box on a UK/European Mk7.5 Fiesta? If so, which fuse number did you use?

I’d prefer not to run wiring through the bulkhead to the passenger fuse box if there’s a suitable option under the bonnet.

Any advice from someone who’s actually done this would be massively appreciated. Cheers!

Where can I get engine cooling fan control module? I am in South Africa.

Hey all,

Recently I found out that my passenger rear calliper doesn't engage. Not handbrake nor pedal make it work. So i believe it narrows it down to the calliper. What do you guys think this could be. Obviously hard to tell but maybe theres another (brake related) thing that the Fiesta is notorious for.

Hey all,

When I start my car (2013, 52K miles) I get a strong fuel smell inside the car but only when starting. When I open the bonnet you can still occasionally get a whiff of lean fuel. I have no visual leaking such as dripping.

Any help would be much appreciated

2019 US mk7. Local shop is doing a slave cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch job for me. Do they need to be doing a reverse bleed on the install for longevity’s sake, or just a standard bleed? Or standard bleed followed by reverse bleed?

I have acquired some very, very cheap used hardrace arms that need new ball joints.. all other bushes are ok.

I’m reading some mixed information that I can’t put OEM equivalent ball joints in these but at the same time I know you can put hardrace ball joints in OEM arms 🤷‍♂️

Anyone had any dealings with this?

I had an accident in my Fiesta a couple of years ago. It damaged the radiator support snd front bumper.

I took the front end apart last summer to repair, and then got distracted by other tasks. I have looked at multiple repair manuals, including the Haynes Manual, and the official Ford repair manual, but neither of them show the ST specific front end.

I can't remember now exactly how the plastic trim pieces go back together, nor exactly where each bolt / clip goes. I took photos, but was not as thorough as I thought I was.

Any idea where I can find a guide specific to getting these parts reinstalled on my ST specifically?

I just got back from an oil change for my car. My mechanic said I should have changed the timing belt along time ago, That he was taking too many risks at this point. Should I?

2015 FiST.
I've just got my head back from the machine shop and I'm looking to reassemble. Manual shows all of these bolts are trash. Ref the trashcan. Finding replacement bolts was a lot more challenging than I originally though. What I can find is M6x35mm (#5-16), M7x38mm (#1-2), and M7x59mm (3-4).

All I'm looking for is if I'm barking up the right tree. The torque specs for these later show degreed torque specs so it does make sense these are TTY bolts.

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

So not to sure what this is someone told me fuel injectors? But basically you can just about hear it in the video but when you accelerate and the the revs drop it makes this weird like mechanical pumping sound.

I did always notice this sound when I just go to unlock the car and thought that was normal but I’m not sure maybe I just never noticed it while driving? It does seem more apparent now though I’m not sure if that’s because it’s colder now in the uk as this was a shortish drive I’ve noticed it on. Just hoping it’s not another fix I need to do 🫩

https://youtube.com/shorts/w9qFVaEwwAk?is=Oz_T9jwCQ7R9tnEF

Recently replaced my blower motor actuator (YH1895), now I can’t change the direction where the air/heat comes out. It’s only out of the windshield setting.

Replaced the blower motor actuator because of the clicking coming from my dashboard. Now I’m hearing another clicking, not sure what that is either.

I’m sure this is user error, just need to know how to fix it. Thanks folks.

The Focus SVT 17" wheels fit the fiesta perfect. Wrapped with 205/45/17 Hankook Ventus V2 concept2 rides smooth, no rubbing. Have Mountune Yellow Springs and Mountune Shocks on all 4 corners so it's a bit lower.

Excited to see how these compare to my current Falken RT615k+s that wore out after 10k. Probably not as much grip but much more longevity and still sporty, especially for a 300tw.

Does anyone have experience with R1 Concepts rotors and pads? Found a pretty good deal on them and ive never used them before.

What’s this tick? What causes it? How to fix?

Bought this car for cheap with a blown turbo, replaced turbo and just trying to make it a nice daily.

Hello everyone,
I’m planning to buy my first ST early 2027, and I can’t decide if I get an mk7 182 for 10k€ or an mk8 200 for 15k€, idk how reliable they are, i’ve heard that the mk7 is pretty solid, how does the mk8 compare?
Also, i want to remap it to an e85 stage 1.
Thank you in advance

After owning my FiST for almost 12 years, things start to fall apart faster than they can get fixed.

The car ran into issues that I just couldn’t find the time to fix for about a year and a half. After I finally got around to fixing them, I drove it around for about 2 weeks and remembered why I hadn’t gotten rid of this fun big turbo machine.

I eventually heard a noise coming from the right rear strut that turned out to be a loose locking ring and after assembling everything back together (as well as the rear strut tower brace) I realized I saw something that’s NOT supposed to be there.

Can’t catch a break.

Hey everyone, I’m new to the fam. 2017 with 83k miles. I bought it a couple months ago and have absolutely loved it. Recently I’ve noticed the blowoff valve has a new sound. From the day I got it, when I would give it moderate throttle and let off, it would be a nice “pshh” sound. When I would floor it the sound changes to almost a quick high-pitched whistle. As of about a week ago it still makes those noises only sometimes after I get on it the sound after letting off the gas after moderate throttle, it sounds like a flutter. It does that a couple times then it will go back to the normal “pshh”. I’m worried the turbo is failing. Is that normal for BOVs? It still produces boost perfectly fine and the boost gauge doesn’t look abnormal to me. The car is stock. Any input would be appreciated!

Edit: it’s a Boomba racing BOV adapter

Been working on a sound system in my car for a couple months now. Got most of it to where I want it, but still not happy with my speaker mounting and placement. Currently got a 3 way system with a 3 inch midrange and 1 inch tweeter on the dash in pods.

Anyone here have experience with mounting mids and tweeters to our a pillar/dash? Was thinking of potentially checking if the mids fit in the triangle sail window and filling that area in, and then tweeters on the pillar in pods. Ideally would take the dash out and have the mids in the corners almost flush mount, but not sure what space looks like behind there yet. Or some fiberglass pillars but that’s out my skills set at the moment.

Any ideas would be great even if a long shot with our cars

It does not matter if you have PPF on the front bumper, half of the hood, front fenders, A-pillars, mirrors, side skirts, or part of the rear quarter panel; these areas will rust, and it seems like there is no stopping it. It is almost as if they left the factory with rust. If I even drive the vehicle with salt or snow on the ground, I always go through the car wash and get an underbody wash. I called a body shop near me and sent them a whole bunch of pictures; they said they do not do any rust repair and that since there is a hole, the only way they would fix it is to replace the whole quarter panel because Ford only allows you to cut it in a specific spot. My old shop foreman recommended them because most of the body shops around me suck, from what I have heard. Anyway, the guy told me 5k, which I think is crazy, but I do not know what repairs like this go for. I am not going to spend 5k on her, though I am more curious than anything. Gotta love thin factory paint, body panels that rub, and Indiana winters.