Bike: 1996 Cannondale m500

Bought from Facebook market

I got new riser bars so I need to install new cables in order to allow the bike to be able to turn right properly. Before I do this though I was wondering if cables need to be routed like how it is in the photo? Wouldn't it make sense to keep the cables parallel? If anyone is familiar with these 90s frames I'd love advice please and thank you.

Edit: Thanks for the answers everyone. This is in fact a fairly normal technique and is up to the rider. Just in case anyone else has this question.

Hey everyone,
I’m wondering if I could fit 28c tires on this bike. As far as I know, the frame is rated for a maximum of 25c, but looking at the available clearance, it seems like there might be a little extra room.
Has anyone tried running 28c tires on a bike with a similar frame, even if the official maximum is 25c?

Got this trek 820 for free and I’m trying to restore it. I would need to buy tools and new parts for drivetrain and the wheelset for sure. Lots of surface rust on the outside but can’t tell how bad the inside is yet.

I've bought a Sturmey Archer hub where seller didn't know exact model. I thought that this is multi-speed one (X-RD3) but I cannot find where speeds pin goes into.

Are there single speed hubs? Is it possible that there are no speeds or am I just missing something?

Got myself an e-bike with a shimano 10 speed 11-46 rear cassette and a 44T front chainring. I changed the front chainring to a 48T Shimano (triple) chainring by using a spider. All is new (cassette, chain and front chainring). Now my chain keeps jumping off in the highest gear. Do you guys think it has something to do with the chainring width? Alaignment must be correct since the spider is made for this specific setup.

I want to add a lockout remote to my Marin Team Marin 2 which has the Fox 34 stepcast.

I have a terrible habit of attempting projects and missing the minor details / parts, so hoping someone can kindly guide me through exactly what parts I need to make this project happen :)

It is the 'Grip' damper.

Thank you!

Any way to make it last for another month lol?

I’m hoping someone here can help me find a replacement part for my Diamondback Sync’r. I’ve been trying to fix this bike for a while now and I’m running out of options.
I’m missing the D-shaped threaded nut/receiver that the rear thru-axle screws into on the derailleur side of the frame. It’s a small removable piece that sits inside the dropout and prevents the axle from spinning.

Bike details:
Model: Diamondback Sync’r (believed to be 2019, possibly 2021 based on serial)
Serial: AMV21A03764
Rear axle: M12 × 1.75 thread pitch
Axle length: 180 mm
Rear spacing: 148 mm Boost
Possible OEM part number: 99-45-0447
I’ve found references to Diamondback selling this part separately as a “Thru Axle D-Nut 1.75T,” but the product page is dead and I can’t find anywhere to purchase it.
I’ve also tried contacting Diamondback through multiple phone numbers and support channels without success.

Does anyone know:
Where I can buy this exact D-shaped nut or a compatible replacement?
Whether another bike manufacturer uses the same style of threaded receiver?
If there’s a derailleur hanger or dropout assembly that includes this nut?
Whether a machine shop could realistically fabricate one if the original is discontinued?
I’ve attached pictures of the dropout and axle.
It’s frustrating having an otherwise perfectly usable bike sitting around because of one tiny missing part. I’d really appreciate any leads, part numbers, or advice from someone who’s dealt with this before.
Thanks in advance!

I just got a Tern HSD P5i this last spring, and in the last 4-5 months, I've noticed a scraping noise around the back wheel, and it's been getting louder. When I was trying to troubleshoot it earlier today, I noticed that there was no scraping while I was pedaling, but as soon as I started coasting, it started. I thought it might be the brake pads rubbing on the rotor, but since I don't hear it while pedaling, that can't be it. I have to assume that is has something to do with the Nexus hub, unless you all have other suggestions.

Could anyone help me figuring out how to change the saddle on my bike?Ive loosened the bolt, even taken it out and the saddle won’t budge at all.

On my other bike switching the saddle is relatively straightforward but this guy is confusing me. any help appreciated

Looking to order a replacement key or new set. It has a rounded nut with two sets of “slots”, one set is shallower than the other and the two sets are perpendicular to one another. Tried to take pics from both angles to show each set of slots. Thanks in advance

is there anything i could get quick from amazon or something

The stock bearings are shot and corroded so I can’t read the numbers. Trek isn't clear on what they are and the parts they list as compatible are out of stock. Does anyone know the correct size bearings? If you have a brand suggestion I will take it as the FSA bearings that Trek seems to use always fail IME.

I found a small scratch/dent on the fork of my Scott Addict RC.

You can feel the scratch with your finger, but its not deep.

Is the fork still usable or will I hurt myself badly, once indoor season is over?

Got this bike for free and stripped it down to clean up. Of course the last thing off was the seat post and the aluminum and steel are fused together. Any tips appreciated!

I swapped my wheels for Elitewheels 2.0, bike is a Bianchi Sprint with Shimano 105 Di2 11-34 12 Speed. Cassette and Chain are stock ones, didn't change anything. This only occurs on the smallest Gears, shifting etc. works fine. the freehub doesn't block when losening the axle a bit, when tightening it to 10nm this happens. Im not sure if this might be normal behaviour from the freehub maybe or something assembled wrong? I made sure all the spacers are sitting right thrice at this point and nothing on the cassette is loose. Went to my local Bikeshop where they also had no clue and said it just might be the nature of the cassette + freehub combination but I'm unsure, maybe someone had something like this happen and can give some input, thanks in advance!!

I need new cleats and have no idea what kind to buy
Anybody have any idea?

I had it on my kickr core and tightened it down. Did 20 seconds of riding and then found out it's not compatible with the older adapter models. I ordered the new ones that support my tcr. An idea if the marks are carbon damage and if it would still be safe to ride? Thanks in advance

Hi all, I have an old Peugeot 10-speed that I'm looking to fit new wheels on (630 to 622 conversion). How would I go about measuring the width that I need? I assume I should measure the dropouts, but I don't know if I should be measuring from the inside of the dropouts, or the outside of the dropouts, or the center of the dropouts.

Can’t figure this one out! Happening in all possible gear combos. For lack of a better word sounds “crunchy”. Not feeling any play or tolerance between any parts.

SOLVED: The cassette had started to loosen despite the bike being fairly new. After tightening it back down the sound is gone.

I’ve had the Trek checkpoint for around a year at this point primarily as a commuter. I’ve ridden it a lot and it has seen some gross weather (I live in the PNW).

Recently it’s been riding very loudly. All of the shifts happen smoothly but it’s just making a considerable grinding noise when pedaling. I’ve tried cleaning the drivetrain and readjusting the rear derailleur but nothing seems to be helping. The derailleur hangar seems to be in decent alignment but it’s hard to tell.

Is this level of noise to be expected or is there something I should look out for? Thanks.

Hopefully there is sound on this one