So I have I bikepacking trip coming up and last time the p-clamps I used broke and messed up my paint before they broke. So I’m wondering if I can drill my dropouts to hard mount my rear rack. The frame is chromoly and the dropouts are 7mm thick on the thickest parts. I marked where I think they would go

Bike: 1996 Cannondale m500

Bought from Facebook market

I got new riser bars so I need to install new cables in order to allow the bike to be able to turn right properly. Before I do this though I was wondering if cables need to be routed like how it is in the photo? Wouldn't it make sense to keep the cables parallel? If anyone is familiar with these 90s frames I'd love advice please and thank you.

Edit: Thanks for the answers everyone. This is in fact a fairly normal technique and is up to the rider. Just in case anyone else has this question.

I've bought a Sturmey Archer hub where seller didn't know exact model. I thought that this is multi-speed one (X-RD3) but I cannot find where speeds pin goes into.

Are there single speed hubs? Is it possible that there are no speeds or am I just missing something?

Any way to make it last for another month lol?

Got this trek 820 for free and I’m trying to restore it. I would need to buy tools and new parts for drivetrain and the wheelset for sure. Lots of surface rust on the outside but can’t tell how bad the inside is yet.

I’m hoping someone here can help me find a replacement part for my Diamondback Sync’r. I’ve been trying to fix this bike for a while now and I’m running out of options.
I’m missing the D-shaped threaded nut/receiver that the rear thru-axle screws into on the derailleur side of the frame. It’s a small removable piece that sits inside the dropout and prevents the axle from spinning.

Bike details:
Model: Diamondback Sync’r (believed to be 2019, possibly 2021 based on serial)
Serial: AMV21A03764
Rear axle: M12 × 1.75 thread pitch
Axle length: 180 mm
Rear spacing: 148 mm Boost
Possible OEM part number: 99-45-0447
I’ve found references to Diamondback selling this part separately as a “Thru Axle D-Nut 1.75T,” but the product page is dead and I can’t find anywhere to purchase it.
I’ve also tried contacting Diamondback through multiple phone numbers and support channels without success.

Does anyone know:
Where I can buy this exact D-shaped nut or a compatible replacement?
Whether another bike manufacturer uses the same style of threaded receiver?
If there’s a derailleur hanger or dropout assembly that includes this nut?
Whether a machine shop could realistically fabricate one if the original is discontinued?
I’ve attached pictures of the dropout and axle.
It’s frustrating having an otherwise perfectly usable bike sitting around because of one tiny missing part. I’d really appreciate any leads, part numbers, or advice from someone who’s dealt with this before.
Thanks in advance!

Looking to order a replacement key or new set. It has a rounded nut with two sets of “slots”, one set is shallower than the other and the two sets are perpendicular to one another. Tried to take pics from both angles to show each set of slots. Thanks in advance

I found a small scratch/dent on the fork of my Scott Addict RC.

You can feel the scratch with your finger, but its not deep.

Is the fork still usable or will I hurt myself badly, once indoor season is over?

I swapped my wheels for Elitewheels 2.0, bike is a Bianchi Sprint with Shimano 105 Di2 11-34 12 Speed. Cassette and Chain are stock ones, didn't change anything. This only occurs on the smallest Gears, shifting etc. works fine. the freehub doesn't block when losening the axle a bit, when tightening it to 10nm this happens. Im not sure if this might be normal behaviour from the freehub maybe or something assembled wrong? I made sure all the spacers are sitting right thrice at this point and nothing on the cassette is loose. Went to my local Bikeshop where they also had no clue and said it just might be the nature of the cassette + freehub combination but I'm unsure, maybe someone had something like this happen and can give some input, thanks in advance!!

Hello

Shimano 105 7100 chain. 110 links total.

This is a side by side with a brand new chain.

Could that be my issue from my noise from my previous post?

I can't find a perfect adjustment so far. Always noisy on certain gear.

I need new cleats and have no idea what kind to buy
Anybody have any idea?

I had it on my kickr core and tightened it down. Did 20 seconds of riding and then found out it's not compatible with the older adapter models. I ordered the new ones that support my tcr. An idea if the marks are carbon damage and if it would still be safe to ride? Thanks in advance

Hi all, I have an old Peugeot 10-speed that I'm looking to fit new wheels on (630 to 622 conversion). How would I go about measuring the width that I need? I assume I should measure the dropouts, but I don't know if I should be measuring from the inside of the dropouts, or the outside of the dropouts, or the center of the dropouts.

Vreau un MTB hardtail sub 1.500 Lei care poate sa fie luat la ride-out-uri, daily commuting, urban free-ride prin București și ceva care nu ii se rupe jeanta după 10 scări (nu vreau sa fac zbor peste ele, doar sa le iau). Ar trebui sa fie ok si pentru manualuri

Got this bike for free and stripped it down to clean up. Of course the last thing off was the seat post and the aluminum and steel are fused together. Any tips appreciated!

I’ve had the Trek checkpoint for around a year at this point primarily as a commuter. I’ve ridden it a lot and it has seen some gross weather (I live in the PNW).

Recently it’s been riding very loudly. All of the shifts happen smoothly but it’s just making a considerable grinding noise when pedaling. I’ve tried cleaning the drivetrain and readjusting the rear derailleur but nothing seems to be helping. The derailleur hangar seems to be in decent alignment but it’s hard to tell.

Is this level of noise to be expected or is there something I should look out for? Thanks.

Hopefully there is sound on this one

I'm new to bike repair/maintenance, but I recently repacked rear hub (new bearings), replaced cassette and chain. I torqued the cassette down with an adjustable wrench not too tight but it's not easy guessing what 40nm feels like. I checked the cassette for play by grabing the rear wheel and trying to pull the cassette side to side - no play

https://reddit.com/link/1x6vrt9/video/legwawaqtovh1/player

Is this Ritchey external cup threadless headset (Model 129805) properly assembled for the adjustment bolt to work? The top of steering column ends 3 mm below the top edge of the stem (photo 1). Compression ring sits atop the stem (photo 2). Top cap covers compression ring and straddles the stem (photos 3 and 4). Thank you.

I currently have a SRAM GX shifter connected to a Shimano I-Spec EV brake clamp using a WolfTooth MM-ISEV adapter as shown in photo #1.

I want to install an XT shifter & derailleur to my I-Spec EV brake clamp. However, new XT shifters come with an individual bar clamp as shown in photo #2.

What clamp adapter do I need to connect the new XT shifter to the I-Spec EV brake clamp?

I searched the internet but it isn’t very obvious from all the options out there and multiple Shimano standards.

Thanks

sheldon brown says a bad chain angle from the jockey wheel to the cassette can cause shifting issues:

the jockey pulley (the upper one) is too far away from the freewheel sprockets. This means that the chain angle created by shifting your dérailleur is less pronounced. It is this angle that makes the chain move from one sprocket to another.

If the jockey pulley is too far from the freewheel sprocket, you have to shift your dérailleur farther to create an angle sharp enough to make the chain climb out of its comfortable bed. When it finally does, the chain probably will overshoot and shift two gears when you only meant to shift one. This is because the dérailleur cage has moved farther than the normal 5.5- to 6-millimeter distance from one sprocket plane to the next. Once the chain is derailed, it is just as easy for it to jump two gears as one.

sheldon brown recommends adjusting axel position in the drop outs as one possible solution:

If you have Campagnolo, Sun Tour or other similar dropouts on your frame for direct attachment of the dérailleur without the use of an adapter claw, you can get some adjustment by moving the rear axle forward or backward. If you do this, you should be aware that the farther forward the axle is set, the less chain will wrap around and engage the rear sprockets. This will cause your chain to wear out that much sooner and skip in the higher gears.

So it sounds like if I move it backwards I could improve the angle and get better gear engagement? (and incidentally improve chain wear?) My dropouts have these screw spacers like so: /preview/pre/rijzn3ut59t71.jpg?width=960&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=50ee5c6607cf97094c3baf1153f7985322ff0e05

would removing them so the axel sits further back improve the chain angle and shifting?

does this make sense? should i remove the spacers to improve shifting?

Hi there - I googled for hours trying to get a replacement for my micro spline free hub body - can someone please help identifying which model is this?

I use shimano m6100 cassette 12 speeds.

Edit:
thanks a lot for the replies.
my axle dimension is 12x148mm
bike is Canyon neuron:on CF 7 (2023) model that I bought new.

Wheel is: RODI TRYP30 EVO

I have no info other than this, looked at the hub and there’s no marking or any typing to indicate the model.

Just wondering if anyone had gone wireless on their Super Pros. I have a microspline freehub on the existing 45t cassette. Just wondering if there's clearance!