Make sure yall drive your cars, this is a low mileage princess but we still drive it and rack up the miles 😈

how many miles do y’all’s cars have???

Hey guys, question, what coilovers does everyone run for a similar stance to this, pretty good drivability and ride quality. Bought the car not too long ago and am pretty much starting from scratch as I have no clue what is on the car or how old the parts are. And if anybody runs a works9 body kit, or any kit that's +25mm wider in the front and +75mm in the back, what wheel specs do you run? Thanks!

Hey [r/Nissan](r/Nissan), I'm the guy behind this so flagging that upfront. I kept seeing the same questions here — "how much power can an SR20 take stock", "what do I actually need for 400hp in my S14", "is a VQ35DE build worth it" — and the answers always depended on the exact engine, budget and use.
So I built a free tool around exactly that. Pick your chassis and engine code, set a power goal and budget, and it gives you a realistic plan: what's feasible, what the weak points are, what supporting mods you need, and whether your budget covers it. It knows the difference between an SR20DE and DET, a VQ35DE and HR, and it won't tell you to tune a carb on an old Datsun.
Free to try, no account needed: https://buildlabpro.com/
If any engine's info looks off, tell me — I'd genuinely rather hear it here than have someone get bad advice. What would make it actually useful to you?

Anyone have a dual cam long block they’d get rid of? Located in the PNW

A friend of mine is looking for an adapter to connect his 240 coilovers to the Z32 knuckles but the meganracing and this part is out of stock. Does anyone know where he could get a replacement?

Hey guys, stock 98 KA24de here. Engine blew and new freshly machined and rebuilt long block is coming in next month. I’m trying to gather all other parts to replace and refresh with the new engine going in. Car ran fine before it blew a hole in the side of the block.

Should I look to replace the pulleys with the new engine or will reusing them be fine here? Also, is an ATI dampener worth replacing my stock one just for the sake of replacing it or am I better off reusing the stock on the new engine? Lots of the parts are caked in grease as you can see but I’m not sure what to replace given it’s all oem parts and hard to just find brand new at oem quality(and they were working fine when the car was running)

I’m sparing no expenses here while the engine is out so I want to replace/refresh everything that I should/can do so any extra input is appreciated!

Engine is rebuilt to OEM specs and will stay stock/not boosted. Thanks!

So far I have bought:

Bando belt set (AC/PS/Alt belts)

Nismo Engine mounts

OEM waterpump and Thermostat

If anyone was thinking of buying the factory carbon tail light garnish. Then now is the time. I was just told it has been discontinued. I'm not sure if it's just Nissan Australia or worldwide but just thought I should mention it to you legends just incase 🤙

I get that they buy a body kit/wrap and match it all together, but do they just throw decals on and it becomes something cool once they add a bunch? Where do they get these decals from and who installs them? Are the decals part of the wrap itself or are they added? Just curious on how this all works.

Anyone that has taken the leap care to shed light on what it takes to get your car looking like this?

Hey all,

Looking for recommendations on replacement brake components for my 240sx S13 hatch. When pressing down the brake pedal I can hear what sounds like fluid entering and sloshing around in the brake booster.

I’m planning on replacing the master cylinder and brake booster, but I’m curious what brands or replacement options you guys recommend. OEM, remanufactured, aftermarket?

Appreciate the help.

My rear end appears to sit back more than other 240's. My brother has one as well and his is centered. I had an alignment recently and he didn't think any of my adjustable linkage would resolve it. The care has solid rear subframe bushing. Equal distance on both tires, not just the driver side. Likely a long shot but wanted to see if anyone has seen this before.

Mostly worried for when I run my drag pack as it's very close to touching. As of now I plan to roll the low portion of the fender or work it with a rubber mallet.

Just would like to see some similar set ups/ get a bit more info before lowering the car

Hey guys, I recently installed the Gktech V2 RCC kit on my car, but I'm having clearance issues with the wheels hitting the rear wheel well where the harness is. With the tie rod adjustment point set to the grip setting I also had a big overcentering issue. This is with 17x9 +15 wheels and S14 knuckles, LCA, and RCC kit. Is anyone running a similar setup? Is my issue fixable with an alignment or am I simply too low? Any help would be appreciated, thank you.

Anyone had issues with Ichiba hubs binding ?
Installed them today and the bearing won't spin.

Hey guys, looking to sell or trade this KA24de from an s13. I have a compressor, starter and alternator for it. Can also include a s13 manifold or s14 manifold. Buyers choice. I also have s14 engine harness and s14 chassis fuse box harness.

I’m interested in s14 parts, particularly turbo manifold, bucket seats, etc. or as stated cash sale. I’m located in Los Angeles so a local deal is preferred (:

Just got the last little prices i needed to have a full complete interior. Just needs the center console bezel and door switches. Other than that full interior! With p2m floor mats and other goodies!

I have a 92' KA24de hatch and I'm having recurring issues with the fuel pump. Been through 3 pumps in a very short time.

1. The day I bought it, the old owner mentioned he just replaced the fuel pump because it wasn't starting that morning. I think with a cheap Autozone one.

2. That fuel pump died on a short 5 minute drive from 7 eleven, after only an hour of driving since the new one went in. It just cutout mid drive. I replaced it with a ISR high flow pump, and it started right up again.

3. Yesterday, after another ~30 minutes of driving (few short trips), I went to start it and it briefly came to life and then died again. Same issue. I tried to do a field repair in the carpark with another new autozone pump, and got it going but it was sputtering and dying at idle. Then stopped working altogether after I'd been tinkering with the electrical connections and trying to start it a bunch. So I got it towed. I haven't pulled this newest pump out to bench test it yet to see if it's actually dead.

Any thoughts? What could be killing pumps like this? I'm planning to swap in another new pump but feels like there must be a separate issue.

What I've tried:

- I've looked in the tank, and it doesn't seem to have any obvious rust.

- Haven't changed fuel filter (but planning to now)

- Cleaned up the connectors in the trunk (was super gunked), and made sure the ground wire was connecting properly to the top of the fuel pump access hatch

- Swapped in a new relay

Was shooting for 350 wheel and dynoed at 353. Could have made significantly more but I bought the turbo (G25-550 equivalent) before I knew what I was doing 😂 One day I’ll get a bigger one and retune but it’s plenty for drifting.

Hey everyone! I recently picked up a 1994 Nissan 180SX with what I believe is a mostly stock SR20DET. I’m looking for advice on putting together a reliable 320–330whp street build without spending money on unnecessary parts or building the engine beyond what I actually need.
Current setup:
1994 Nissan 180SX
SR20DET, believed to be internally stock
ISR exhaust and downpipe
ISR front-mount intercooler and piping
Blitz intake
Unknown aftermarket clutch
Stock-style blow-off valve, as far as I know
Manual transmission
My goal is a fun, responsive street car that I can drive regularly and occasionally enjoy spirited driving in. I’m not trying to build a 500–600hp car, and I’d much rather have a dependable 320–330whp than chase bigger numbers.
1. Turbo and fuel system
What turbo would you recommend for this power goal? I’m looking for something that can comfortably support 320–330whp without being unnecessarily large or laggy.
Which turbo would you choose, and why?
What injector size and fuel pump would I need?
Would I need a new fuel pressure regulator, fuel lines, or anything else in the fuel system?
Can my existing ISR intercooler, piping, and exhaust support this power level?
Would you recommend replacing the blow-off valve?
Are there any supporting parts people commonly forget when budgeting for this setup?
2. Engine reliability and internal upgrades
I’d prefer to keep the engine unopened if its condition allows, but my mechanic mentioned installing head studs to help prevent head gasket problems at this power level.
Are head studs actually necessary at 320–330whp on a healthy, unopened SR20DET?
If I install head studs, does the cylinder head need to come off, meaning a new head gasket and additional labor?
Would you recommend keeping the factory head bolts and focusing on a conservative tune instead?
What compression/leak-down tests and other checks should I do before increasing boost?
Are there any other preventative maintenance items I should address first?
I want to make decisions based on the engine’s condition and actual risk, rather than opening up a healthy engine unnecessarily.
3. ECU and tuning
This is one of the biggest things I need help figuring out. My mechanic suggested looking into remote tuning, and I’m interested in finding a reputable tuner who knows SR20DETs.
Which ECU or engine management setup would you recommend for this power goal?
Is the factory ECU suitable with appropriate tuning, or would you recommend a standalone or aftermarket ECU?
Can you recommend reputable SR20DET tuners who offer remote tuning?
What hardware, sensors, and logging equipment would I need for a remote tune?
Would a remote tune be appropriate for my setup, or would an in-person dyno tune be worth the extra cost?
What should I budget for the ECU, tuning, and any required supporting equipment?
I want a tuner who prioritizes safe air-fuel ratios, ignition timing, boost control, and reliability over an impressive dyno number.
4. Realistic total cost
I’m trying to establish a realistic budget before buying parts. I’d appreciate actual prices people have paid recently, including parts, installation, and tuning where applicable.
If possible, could you break down the approximate cost of:
Turbo and any required manifold or oil/water lines
Injectors and fuel pump
ECU and tuning
Boost control and monitoring equipment
Head studs, gasket, and labor, if recommended
Miscellaneous parts, fluids, gaskets, and unexpected expenses
Shop labor and dyno time, if applicable
5. Anything else I should know?
If you were building a mostly stock SR20DET-powered 180SX to make a dependable 320–330whp, what exact combination would you use today?
Would you take a different approach to keep costs down without compromising reliability? Are there particular parts or tuners you would avoid?
I’m not looking for the cheapest possible setup at any cost. I want to spend money where it matters, avoid unnecessary upgrades, and end up with a car that starts, drives, and performs properly.
Thanks! I’d really appreciate recommendations from people who have actually run this power level on an SR20DET, especially long-term street cars.