Well, I did a thing today and now have 2 more cans in my collection. That makes 6 cans total for the year with 3 of them acquired in the last 48 hours...

I think an addiction to drugs or gambling would have been cheaper.

My first and only two, picked em up today.

I found an old Maglite XL50 in a drawer and thought it might be a good Beretta 30x can. Obviously it’s tiny and probably won’t do all too much… but do you think it would be worth my time trying to build?

The lock doesn’t do anything anymore. Anyone have this happen with Silencerco asr mount?

Picked this up at a buddy’s shop last night. I don’t have enough pistol suppressors yet so I figured what the heck.

I’ve read the reviews about them online and while it’s a bit dated, they didn’t seem bad. I also know Gemtech doesn’t have the best reputation on Reddit.

Host is a Gen 3 Glock 17 with a Brownells threaded barrel. Tungsten Guide rod with the factory weight. Ammo was S&B 140gr and PMC 147gr subs.

It’s pretty light and balances well. I shot it dry first.

First round pop is pretty bad but not unexpected due to its design. After that it sounded good but still noticeably but not excessively louder than my Ruger RXD910Ti.

I didn’t feel any blow back on my face from the gas but it was smokier than a cigar lounge. Glock cycled fine which was nice. Don’t need a reduced recoil spring.

I like their direct thread piston assembly. I was a little bit worried that it would come loose since it’s direct thread, but it cinched up tightly and didn’t walk at all when I fired rapidly.

I started shooting it wet after giving it a break for a little bit. I just dumped a bottle cap full of water into it and shook it a couple times.

To be expected, performance was much better when shooting it wet. Very minor FRP and zero smoke. It sounded great to me, as quiet if not quieter than the RXD910Ti.

Overall I’m pretty happy with it. It’s modular, but I don’t intend on ever really using the shorter length.

Took my 🦦 cans out today. VERY happy with my Titanium 22 and Infinity 556K.

Hey guys,

Hoping you can either tell me I’m crazy and good to go, or help me figure out what might be wrong with the FT556 on my Geiselle SD.

First pic is the one in question. The can has a Comstock Armory low profile plan b hub that’s mounting to a Comstock Armory plan B mini brake.

Pic 2: Rhodie 6 on the same rifle. This can has a Rearden Atlas gen 2 hub

Pic 3: Omega 36m on the same rifle. Comstock Charlie plan b hub.

Pic 4: This is the fireteam on a different rifle mounted up to a SDTA brake.

I took the BCG out and peeked down the bore. I didn’t see any obstructions, but not sure I want to send it with it this close.

Thanks in advance!

So, my question is which is better for my use case: integrally suppressed or normal di/qd type can?

Use case: hunting 1-2 months a year for Tennessee, Georgia, or Kentucky deer, AND spending the rest of the year at my bedside for home defense. Plan to load subsonic .300 blackout. Getting 1-2 range trips a month. I keep my tools obsessively clean, so WILL disassemble and clean the can regularly.

I’m basically looking at the Daniel Defense M4 lineup. That DDM4ISR is tempting me, but I want to really understand the differences between it and a can on the end of the barrel before I purchase one or the other. What extra complexity does integrally suppressed add? Are the benefits really worth that price jump? How difficult is adding a regular can to a DD M4 for a first time user that’s comfortable with tools and can read/follow the manual? (I’m including tuning the gas as part of the installation) What unknowns have I missed?

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

.308 using a Kratos designs alignment rod

First image is with the full size plan b Comstock Armory muzzle brake.

Second is with OCL Infinity 7.62 and Comstock Armory LPA adapter.

Three through five are with the OCL Infinity muzzle brake end cap.

The last three are with no end caps.

I'd rather not trash anything without at least checking first. Muzzle brake to barrel is torqued, adapter to suppressor is torqued, and QD is hand tight without too much sauce. I'm hoping it's just the adapter, but any thoughts would be appreciated. Just looks real off to me.

Has anyone tried the new budget suppressor from One Horse? (The new Anderson Manufacturing brand)

I’m curious how it stacks up against the other budget 5.56 suppressors.

I can’t take the bolt off of the supressor but I can’t pull the baffles from the inside out. How do I clean this thing?

Attempting to sell off my Saker 7.62 ASR (this isn't a for sale post) and replace it with something smaller and lighter for my BRN SBR. Looking into what is on the market I'm fairly interested in things like the rhodie 6k, the infinity k, and titanium variants thereof.

My main hangups:
- the saker 7.62 ASR is 10 inches and 23 ounces. I am still using the ASR ecosystem and this will add 3.7 oz to whichever suppressor i end up running
- the rhodie 6 would be about 19 oz with an ASR mount
- The rhodie 6k would be closer to ideal weight wise and length wise, but then I am running a shorter louder can
- Infinity k looks like a decent option but is similar to the Rhodie 6 in spec and weight
- a Ti rhodie or Infinity would be great for weight, but again I am running a 10.5" 5.56 and dont want to completely eat out the baffle stack.

I'm not running this thing super hard, it is on a truck gun that sometimes makes range cameos. My saker is just too heavy and unweildy and frankly barely gets used.

any suggestions? Kinda hard to find sound specs on the ridgeback cans but everything else about them looks good on paper. Thanks!

Thanks for everyone’s help on my previous post! I’ve narrowed it down to these two and trying to decide which is the best for me. Out of these two, which performs the best for sound suppression and recoil reduction? Will mainly be on all bolt guns and almost all of the time on a 300 win mag fierce with a carbon barrel. TIA

My first one that was registered has been so good to me that I had to get another one undocumented, cuz freedom. Also, I need a dedicated can for every gun I own, because reasons. 😁

Looking for a dedicated, direct thread 350 Legend can for my deer rifle.

Been using a HuxWrx Flow 9k Ti to date, and it’s just “okay”. I’d rather leave that on my .357 lever and shoot the occasional pistol with it.

Looking for something that can live on the bolt gun and get some better suppression.

With the new ruling im interested in slapping a supressor on this bad boy. Any recommendations? Also trying to stay "period correct", anything that looks like it came out the 90s or early 2000s would suffice 7.5 inch barrel, .300 blk

I know I know everyone has questions,

So let’s say someone purchased a suppressor with 4473 and determined they want to sell it to someone else.

Say you sell it to your local gun store as a used suppressor or you find someone that wants to buy it and you go through a local FFL and have them do the 4473 paper work for that person.

Would that then clear you from issues in the future if the ATF decided to enforce suppressor again that weren’t register under the NFA??

At that point would it still be considered an illegal sale of an unregistered NFA item?

Hey all. I recently purchased a YHM R9 to go on my 9mm AKV PCC. When direct threading the suppressor, it is pretty bang on concentric, maybe favoring one side slightly based on an alignment rod. However there seems to be clearance (albeit minor) on all sides of the rod.

As I know the AKV doesn’t have a shoulder on the barrel, I purchased a comstock facemount break, along with their hub adapter for the YHM r9. With both the new facemount break and adapter, the suppressor alignment is now off and actually touching the sides. Not sure what I’ve done wrong, or if something is out of tolerance. I don’t want to blow out the end of the can on its maiden voyage.

Attached two pics of the closest tolerance between suppressor and alignment rod between direct thread and comstock.

Any advice appreciated.

So i got a huxwrx 9k for my pcc they come with the booster not a plain direct thread. I got a yhm hub adapter cause i thought they were all universal and the same. Anyways i hand tightened to this the yhm is slightly larger in diameter and maybe slightly longer?

Is this problematic or just a cosmetic issue?

There’s like 1-2mm of gap there. This is only hand tightening i didn’t want to commit and make a potential problem worse.

I'm debating on picking up a supressor for a 6.5 deer rifle and another for a 22lr. I've used supressors on friends guns at the range but have never pulled the trigger.

Do you think price will go down with less regulation in the next year?