Brain had a dumb dumb moment and loaded up 44gr of h4350 with a 127 LRX in some alpha 6.5 creedmoor lol. Thankfully I pulled it and didn’t try to shoot it. Ran it through GRT and got just shy of 80k psi lol

Working on a few .357 Max rounds and forgot to swap dies.

I was and still am using expanded and trimmed 348 Win brass and 50 cal REAL bullets in my Rolling Block, but I broke down and bought some 50-70 headstamped brass and some proper bullets. I am not sure the improvement was worth the cost. I have the REAL bullet mold, sometimes I use them in my muzzleloaders. It is the only 50 cal mold I have.

bUT tHAt WonT StaBiliZE

I have no experience reloading, but I like machining and shooting. I decided to make a bullet mould that I can use to convert birdshot into slugs. I just want to check that it's safe before I fire them.

I'm using the same wadding from the original shell, and I've got the diameter of the slug down to a point where it and the wad push through the barrel just as easily as the wad alone. I used all the birdshot to cast the slug, so it would be almost exactly the same weight. To seal the shells, I used cardboard discs with a little wax poured over them.

I think it should be safe to fire, and I'm not trying to achieve high accuracy. I don't know if the slug geometry will even stabilise. For reference, my shotgun is an old English side-by-side 12 gauge with shortened 19-inch cylinder and cylinder barrels. Obviously, it's smoothbore.

The mould is two parts. The smaller part casts the cavity in the back of the slug, and the cut-out in it is where the lead is poured in. Other than the cardboard and wax seal instead of the star crimp, and the slug instead of the shot, I'm changing nothing about the shell.

I'd really appreciate any advice or feedback, especially from anyone with experience loading or casting shotgun slugs. I'm completely new to reloading, so if there are any obvious safety issues or things I've overlooked, I'd much rather know before trying anything. Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this and share your experience.

170 gr Hornady PSP .312 dia .303 British bullet in a .32 S&W case..

Aiming for a bullet so subsonic you can outrun it when fired from a S&W Safety Hammerless aka "Lemon Squeezer".

So far, it looks like I may have to use my RCBS .32 H&R expander die to expand deeper into the case. Damned ol' Lee dies anyway..

Charge will be 4 individual powder grains of H4227 lit with a SPM primer.

If it proves too long for the revolver's cylinder, I'll just cut the bullets off with a pair of side cutters

What is preventing me from putting a .223 bullet inside of a .22 LR case in firing it? Like say it was a lighter 45-50 grain bullet, would that not have better aerodynamics and penetration then a regular lead .22 bullet? Could be a stupid question, I’m kinda new to guns so I might be retarded but maybe, just maybe I’m a trailblazer here.

Looking for advise! Last deer season i shot 125 grain speed TNTs they expand violently and work good but I found i wanted a bullet that was similar in construction but heavier weight something say 150 grains or more. Does any have any tips or recommendations?

If this doesn’t get you to stop shooting and figure out what the fuck, I don’t know what would. There were more destroyed cases than not.

Anyways, how do you guys think I should go about fire-forming these shut? Should I solder them first?

Should I just send it and let it fire form back to normal?

Been awhile since I loaded 35 Whelen... Die was still set to a different bullet.

Opps... Welcome the entertaining comments.