Got this today. Everything seems to work great. Not sure about the meter. Came with leather case, external light meter, closeup lenses, vintage tripod. My first rangefinder!

Still, i wish to ad the Distagon T\* 1,4/35 ZM and the C Sonnar T\* 1,5/50 ZM to the Zeiss Ikon, and the Sonnar T\* 1,8/55 ZA to the Sony A7RIII that i have… I love Zeiss lenses

In this week's camera-collecting blog, I'm offering a triple threat of cameras.

The quirky Bolsey cameras have been a favorite of mine for many years, so I thought it would be fun to discuss the early 35, Model B "Special, the Bolsey B3, and the rare Bolsey PH-324A cameras.

Take a few minutes from your day to get familiar with these oddball rangefinder cameras from the 1950s-1960s.

www.dancuny.com/camera-collecting-blog/2026/8/26/bolsey-ph-324a-camera-special-amp-b3

Old cameras, modern flashes, and an old vintage strobe.

Like every film shooter, I was afraid of shooting flash but its not that hard!

I put together a practical guide to flash photography with film, covering manual flash, Auto-Thyristor flashes, guide numbers and how I actually use a Godox iM30 with my Canon P.

There’s also a bit on bringing old flashes like the Metz 45 CT-1 back to life and modifying them with modern accessories.

If you’ve got an old flash sitting in a drawer, maybe it’s time to give it another go.
What’s your go to quirky vintage strobe?

Recently i decided i want to get the original lens for my zorki (industar 22) and while looking for it i found this thing for just 800₽ (8.35€). Seems like a rare find, when googling it i mostly see either the slr version or the kmz rangefinder.

My dream

Got a Mint RF70 recently and noticed that the rangefinder is massively aligned. The seller is saying it's normal but I don't have much experience with them. Does it need to be recalibrated or do people just shoot these by guessing the distance?

In the second picture I've shown how much I need to focus to get the rangefinder to align at infinity!

Hi all,

I’m trying to diagnose a persistent sharpness problem with my Fuji GF670.

Almost every roll I’ve shot with it has been chronically less sharp than I would expect, including properly exposed Provia 100 transparencies. This happens from approximately f/3.5 through f/8, both handheld and on a tripod. It does not simply look like normal wide-open softness or camera shake. When examining the transparencies, the plane of best focus often appears rail-thin and seemingly falls behind the subject I intended to focus on.

My first thought was that the rangefinder might be out of calibration, but I performed a basic film-plane test:
-I stretched a piece of matte Scotch tape tightly across the inner film gate, with the frosted/matte side facing the lens.
-I set the shutter to Bulb.
-I locked the shutter open with a cable release.
-I examined the image projected onto the tape using a strong magnifying loupe.
-I compared the projected focus with the rangefinder patch at several distances.

As far as I could tell, the image on the tape matched the rangefinder patch just fine.

That said, I realize this test may not perfectly reproduce the position or flatness of actual loaded film. Could the problem still be caused by a disagreement between the rangefinder and the true film plane? Could it instead involve the pressure plate, film rails, folding lens standard, lens alignment, front-standard alignment, or some other mechanical issue?

For comparison, my Fuji GW690III produces very sharp negatives at every aperture, including wide open, so I don’t think my expectations are completely unrealistic.

Has anyone encountered this problem with a GF670 or Voigtländer Bessa III? Are there additional tests I can perform to determine why the focus is consistently falling behind the intended subject?

I know the odds are against me, but I would greatly appreciate any recommendations for a repair technician who might have experience calibrating or servicing the GF670/Bessa III, preferably in the United States, but really anywhere is fine.

Thanks very much for any guidance.