Hey all (again),

Finally got around to tearing my motors down and I’ve sent the new block off to the machine shop to get resized and prepped to be used. But when I took out my old pistons, I noticed a couple of weird spots around the ringlands and one mildly concerning one. Are these still usable if I bring them to the machine shop too or would I be better off buying new ones? They’re forged and they only sell them in sets of 4 from what I know so I’d really rather not buy them again if I can avoid it for a while at least. Block is not being used anymore, photos are for context of what happened

Hi guys, i am new in reddit and i created this to ask this question. i would like to know about california BAR legal engine swap for 1991 honda civic.

Are both b18c1 and k20a2 engine swap can be BAR legal?

If i am to do the B series engine swap, how hard it is and how much will it costs?

If i am to do the K series engine swap, how hard it is and how much will it costs?

Is there any shop in california hat can do the engine swap?

Thank you in advance for all the info.

Trying to figure out where to take my project civic. I love the car, I still want to do a full front end suspension rebuild. The rear is already done. Don’t like the fitment of the wheels, they feel heavy but when I bought it, I figured I could find something I like, any suggestions on the best wheels specs to run on these civics?

got it for dirt cheap

I replaced all four sensors and cats

I replaced sensors again after getting this diag and still getting the same codes

Front 2 sensors NTK
Rear 2 sensors Denso

Can anyone help please

Had a running 92 eg hatch with k24a2 swap. Running Linkg4x ecu (for all intents and purposes, treat it as a type s exu) and 02-04 rsx type s harness with ktuned conversation harness.

Car would die during WOT pulls, isolated a sensitive “A” connector to the ecu.- when I pushed the connector, the battery voltage would drop.

I bought a new “A” connector, and very patiently transferred each pin (one by one) from the original connector to the new connector. I took many pictures beforehand, and there is nothing obvious that I incorrectly pinned it.- except for the fact that the car won’t start now.

No, fuel pump prime, ecu won’t turn on. But otherwise I have power to accessories (horns, lights etc.)

Pins A2 and A3 correctly show 12 volts when I ground pin E7 (main relay power to ecu), and A4 and A5 correctly show strong grounds. Please help!!!!

do i js reseal all the gaskets and get an aluminum radiator and new hoses or how do i go about this situation cause im 7/10 sure its the gasket,its my first car and i wanna keep it rolling maybe out some performance parts to daily it for better dailying so does anyone have any advice i should know before i go ham

First time doing something more involved than the struts on my R55 MINI, so there's that. At least it only took 10 hours to get the head off and it's already at the machine shop so... yeah. We'll have to wait and see how I did.

My question is, the person selling it says that when they stop at a stop sign or light, the car starts shaking in the engine area. He says otherwise the car runs good. I’m just wondering if anyone has an idea on what it could be. The car has very low low mileage and in great physical condition.

Been doing alot of work and trying too keep up on videos. But man finally getting the 95 running was a relief. No knocking, no weird noises. Only a wobbly belt (thinking tensener or water pump) and a couple oil leaks.

Plan on pulling it out in the morning and doing a rebuild. Maybe find out the true culprit too the previous owner overheating it.

D16z6-236,340 miles 1995 sedan EX

If you do want more or even prefer love action Im on all platforms under Keeping_It_Alive_cars.

Need Wheel recommendations,

Im unsure if this looks ok or too corroded.

Im building just the bottom end of my d16y8 bored to75.5 forged pistons and rods king bearings and upgraded to acl oil pump...how much boost will my motor be able to handle reliably

I finished both chassi legs and welded in the trunk pan yesterday. I only need to do the rear wheel wells and around the fuel fill neck and the rear of the car is ready

Running a B18B1/B18C1 LS/VTEC turbo in a 95 Civic, Rev9 TX-60-62 (journal bearing) on a bottom-mount ram horn, Moroso 20911 4 qt,The -10 PTFE drain goes into Moroso's upper turbo bung, which is already up right by the pan rail.

problem.: the turbo's sweating oil and the drain backs up. I pulled the drain line at the pan with the engine off and about 1.5 L came out of the bung before it stopped. That left about 3.5 L in the engine, with the stick just above LOW. Moroso says 4 qt plus the filter (about 4.1 L), so at a correct fill the bung sits under the oil.I also have strong crankcase pressure at the oil cap. A vented cap is on the way and I'm fixing that first.

Questions:

1. Anyone running a low ram horn on a Moroso 20911 or 20910 with no drain issues? What's your oil fill?
2. Has anyone measured how high the 20910's turbo bung sits compared to its oil level at 5 qt?
3. Did fixing your crankcase venting alone stop the backup for anyone?
4. What did you end up doing: a different pan, a custom bung, raising the turbo, something else?

I have an automatic transmission that I took off an Integra that I swapped to manual.

I'm not sure what to do with this transmission.. it worked when I had it on the car but it does have 214k miles. I don't see a lot of old hondas in my area like that and I also don't have Facebook to post on marketplace.

I'm thinking about scraping for metal what would you do?

Any stock eg ek on the market NY eastcoast area ?