New tyres developing this line. Even though alignment and balancing is good.
What could be the issue?

A rock on the highway pinged against my car (bottom crack) and connected/spread to another ping I got a year or so prior (top crack) and it appears to be spreading. Am I cooked or can this still be filled?

First I know I did a bad thing and I am sad about it 😔.

It's a Honda civic fn2 type r 20011

Just wanted to ask for a quick rough guess on what would need fixing to get the wheel straight again and would I need the steering adjusted or something after I fix it ?

"So, I have felt this bouncy motion on my driver's left side when driving, and I'm asking if anyone has also experienced this on their car. I'm going to get this checked and also remove the rubber lifter over the weekend to see if the issue will go away." Btw it was my father who installed those things it just got really worn out over the years

Kunde Sagte das Auto ging aus und lies sich nicht mehr Starten. Sein Schrauber sagte Anlasser sei defekt und den haben sie erneuert. Mehr Informationen hatte ich auch nicht.

Looking for front suspension advice. All new front suspension for both sides linked to a sway bar. This has been a project of mine for a few years. I replaced the components a while ago so the originals are gone for reference.

I measured the sway bar to make sure it's not off center as well so that's covered. I loosened the u-bolts holding the bottom suspension arm so I could get it into place but it still doesn't line up.

Has anyone dealt with this kind of issue? Would it be ok to drill new holes and send it? I'm at the point where if I jack it up it lifts the vehicle instead of compressing the spring. Even if I find a way to compress the spring I don't think it'll line up with the sway bar bushing.

The other concern is making sure the other side matches. I can measure the top bump stop to do that but what does the community think?

Another bit of info is that if the tire is on with the weight of the vehicle the top bump stop is hitting maxed out. I'm going to assume that isn't correct.

Can someone tell me what parts to buy to fix my 2026 Hyundai Elantra SEL sport Sudan. I want to fix it myself.

2004 ford mustang 4.6L V8 this is a photo of my transmission fluid (manual transmission) I’ve been driving it for 2 years with a grinding noise unable to fix it due to cost and now I’ve got the money to do so, but based off the fluid and metal shavings in it how cooked is the transmission itself?

Hello

So I have a 2009 nissan altima coupe 2.5 L that is roughly at 190,000mi. The previous owner replaced the transmission around 90,000mi back when I got it in highschool. The work I did was routine oil changes, filters, MAF sensor clean, brakes, canister purge valve change, radiator change and will be changing the thermostats here soon because thats what the code reader said. CODES: P0128

For a while now my car has been having issues while accelerating fast. If I accelerated too fast it would stall and the rpms would go up but then eventually shift into the next gear to accelerate. Once I got into high speeds everything would be fine and sometimes if i drive at those speeds often enough the Service engine soon light (for code P0128) would go away. Although once I get to lower speeds especially after a longer drive the CVT would change gears hard often accompanied with a metal like squish noise and a rattle noise. (I may be able to record it later)

I have checked the CVT fluid and it appeared good but I will likely still change it. I wouldnt be surprised if its in some sort of limp mode but I wanted your thoughts on it whether you think its a transmission problem or something causing the transmission not to change "gears" properly.

I am able to drive the car normally when I take accelerating slow because the gears seem to shift easier. When doing this I am able to drive and accelerate normally after i see a very very tiny drop in rpm. Gears are still shifting weird just not as bad unlike after driving at high speeds.