Rip to my 04 Mazda 6, sad to see her like this after years of having her. There she is next to her big sister the speed. The city decided to split the family 😔

Hello,

I am getting a 2021 carbon. Loved the test drive. Is it really true that you can use reg 87 gas and everything will be fine? I thought it would be okay to use reg in an 02 celica gts, but that killed the cat after 8 or 10 years. I do not want to repeat that mistake

I have a base 2017 mazda 6, the base speakers are leave a lot to be desired, are the bose speakers plug and play? Dont wanna have to do any wiring and whatnot. Also for those who have them would they be worth the hassle to upgrade?

Does the 2012 and 2014 Mazda 6 share the same cylinder head if they are both 2.5l na? My 2014 either has a cracked or warped head and local junkyard has a 2012 Mazda 6 with the 2.5l na do they use the same head?

88088

Here I am whit this mileage. 😊

I am not sure. I found it on AliExpress and I am not sure if it belongs to Mazda. I can't find it on any Mazda 6 or cx 90 etc.

I am thinking this would be an upgrade to the existing light dome on my Mazda 6?

How to wire a lightbar?

Hello everyone,

So as the title says my engine locked up after a carbon clean.

Car: Mazda 6 2016 2.2 Skyactiv-D

I went to start it up, it turned for a second or two and seized. However, it is not locked completely, I can turn it almost a full turn back and forth until it hits something. pistons 1 and 4 move freely up and down, 2 and 3 stops just before TDC.

So far I have removed glow plugs, injectors, valve cover and both camshafts. Inspected valves, they are not stuck (anymore 😄) or bent. There could be a chunk of carbon on top of the pistons, but that should have crushed easily, as thy are very brittle. I can’t look inside the cylinders because the glow plug and injector holes are too small for my borescope.
All that’s left would be the bottom end, but I don’t see how could that be related to carbon clean.

Any ideas anybody?
Thanks

Hello,

I'm about to purchase a (used) Mazda6 2.2d se I nav (Skyactiv).

I'm aware of the issues these engines face, such as the DPF and the oil (which can be monitored), but given that I drive on the motorway really often, I don't think that the DPF will be an issue for me.

I'm pondering between a 2016 (118k miles - about 190k km) version from a private seller and a 2015 one (87k miles - about 150k km) from a dealer.

Both have a clean MOT, and they seem to have been properly serviced recently.

The 2016 one is £1000 less than the 2015, but the screen next to the speedometer does not work (speed and rpm meters work fine).

I feel I'm really facing a strong dilemma now because I want to save money, but I also want peace of mind.

Which one do you guys think is the more reliable and value-for-money option?

Thanks

Apparently Mazda switched rotor vendor/design on 02/03/2020? Searching for a front rotor on a 08/2020 build. Lots of choice for pre 02/03/2020 builds. Not so much for later.(No Powerstop)

I’m looking for a cheap but reasonably reliable automatic car that I could hopefully get another 3-4 years out of.
I found a 2007 Mazda 6 sedan for $2,000.

I don’t know much anout cars so here are the specs:

2.0L petrol/gasoline engine

5-speed traditional automatic

260,000 km / about 161,500 miles

Automatic climate control

Engine heater

Two sets of wheels/tires

Asking price: $2,000
The ad itself is pretty short and doesn’t give much information about the service history, transmission fluid changes or previous repairs.

From what I’ve read, the 2.0 petrol engine and conventional automatic seem relatively solid, but rust is apparently a major concern on this generation of Mazda 6, especially the sills, wheel arches, underside and subframes.

Before buying I’m planning to ask about:

service history

automatic transmission fluid changes

rust / previous welding

oil or coolant consumption

recent inspection results

any major repairs

Assuming the underside isn’t badly rusted and the transmission shifts properly both cold and warm, does $2,000 sound like good value?

Would you trust one of these at 260k km 162k miles for another 3-4 years?

Anything specific I should look out for on a 2007 Mazda 6 2.0 petrol automatic?

Hey everyone,

Have any of you encountered this, ever?

Mazda 6 GJ 2018 2.0 Petrol engine, it gives this hissing sound every time the gas pedal is pressed down even the tiniest amount.

Weirdly enough right after start, with cold engine it does the same sound upon releasing the gas pedal.

You can only hear it outside, not while normally operating the car, and it does drive totally normal.

No check engine light, no error codes, only noticed it by accident.

Thanks!

Hi, the smoke issue stills but works fine and soonish will see a mechanic for that issue, so i was thinking about first mods, do i should leave the current radio and so on?, or do you recomend some model of screen to fit in the future?

Hello fellow Mazda6 owners!

​It's been a few years now since I bought my pre-loved 3rd gen Mazda6, and the time has come to overhaul the suspension. Since I’m already tearing into it, I figured I might as well replace everything at once before getting a proper alignment.

​Now, I'm stuck on what to do with the Eibach lowering springs (paired with the original shocks) that came on the car.

​On one hand, I love the handling. It's responsive and precise, and the car feels remarkably well-planted. But on the other hand, I am getting really tired of the bumpy ride. I honestly don't know how much of that harshness is due to the old shocks (though the car did recently pass the TÜV, for what it's worth), versus the springs themselves.

​My question for you: Has any one of you driven a Mazda6 (3rd gen specifically) on both the stock setup and lowering springs? If so, what was the real-world difference in ride quality? More importantly, what would I be missing out on if I decided to return the car to stock ride height?

​Thanks in advance for your insights!

Hey everyone,
I’m looking for some help diagnosing a pretty strange electrical issue with my 2014 Mazda6 Grand Touring, 2.5L SKYACTIV-G, 6-speed automatic.
Over the past several days, the car has developed multiple intermittent electrical problems that have now turned into a complete no-crank/no-start situation.
I’m hoping someone here has experienced something similar, especially with this generation of Mazda6.
Here’s the full story:
Friday, October 9 — First incident
I was driving in the rain when several warnings suddenly appeared on the dashboard:
Keyless Entry System Malfunction
SCBS/SBS System Malfunction
Check Engine Light
At the same time, the steering became slightly heavier, the brake pedal felt somewhat harder than usual, and the backup camera stopped working.
The weird part? The engine was still running perfectly fine. No noticeable loss of power, no misfires, and the throttle responded normally.
After parking and shutting the engine off, the car wouldn’t restart. The START/STOP button kept flashing orange, and at times the ignition wouldn’t switch off normally.
I tried holding the key fob against the START button, but it didn’t help. Eventually, the car started again on its own.
I scanned it using my INNOVA 3040RS and found:
U0155 — Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)
P2610 — ECM/PCM Internal Engine Off Timer Performance
I cleared the codes, and the car behaved normally again.
Saturday and Sunday — Everything seemed normal
No noticeable issues. The car drove perfectly fine.
Monday, October 12 — Multiple failures while driving
The problems came back several times, and this is where things got really strange.
The tachometer would suddenly drop to 0 RPM even though the engine was still running normally.
I could press the accelerator, and the engine would rev and respond normally, but the tachometer would remain at zero.
Sometimes revving the engine would make the tachometer and dashboard start working again.
During these episodes:
Paddle shifters stopped working.
Manual shift mode stopped responding.
The backup camera wouldn’t work.
Steering assistance seemed reduced.
The brake pedal felt harder than usual.
Multiple warning lights appeared simultaneously.
A new warning appeared: Battery Charging System Malfunction.
However, the headlights didn’t noticeably dim, even with the high beams on. The audio system kept working, and the automatic windshield wipers continued operating normally.
It didn’t feel like the car was losing all electrical power. It felt more like certain modules were suddenly losing communication.
Battery and alternator testing
I had the battery and alternator checked.
Both were reported to be in good condition.
The alternator was producing approximately 13.5 V.
I also used my INNOVA scanner during an active malfunction:
Alternator test: 13.46 V — GOOD
PCM live data voltage: approximately 13.27 V
PCM live engine speed: approximately 717 RPM
So the PCM was still reporting engine RPM and communicating with the scanner during at least one of these incidents.
However, during another episode, the scanner couldn’t establish an OBD2 connection at all, despite the engine still running.
Wednesday, October 14 — Now it won’t start
The car has now developed a complete no-crank/no-start condition.
Current symptoms:
START/STOP button continuously flashes orange.
The button never turns green.
Keyless Entry and SCBS/SBS warnings appear.
Pressing START does absolutely nothing. The starter doesn’t engage.
Holding the key fob against the START button doesn’t help.
Holding START with the brake pressed doesn’t help.
Brake lights work when pressing the pedal.
The shifter is physically locked in Park.
The dashboard doesn’t display any gear position at all — no P, R, N, or D.
That last symptom seems especially suspicious considering the earlier failures of the paddle shifters and manual transmission mode.
Professional diagnostic scan
Today, a mechanic used an OTOFIX professional diagnostic scanner to perform a full-system scan.
It detected the following numbers of fault-code entries:
Module
Fault-code entries
PCM (Engine Control Module)
12
TCM (Transmission Control Module)
4
ABS
7
RCM (Airbag/Restraints Module)
2
IC / IPC (Instrument Cluster)
3
That’s 28 fault-code entries across five modules, although I understand that doesn’t necessarily mean 28 separate problems.
One of the screens also showed two entries described as:
“Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A”
I haven’t confirmed the exact alphanumeric code or which module stored those two entries yet. The description appears consistent with U0100.
The scanner was able to communicate with several modules during the scan.
We’re still collecting the complete DTC list before clearing anything.
Additional information
The car has a history of a significant front-end collision before my ownership and was subsequently rebuilt.
It is also currently missing the right-front inner fender liner and the lower engine splash shield, which may expose some wiring and connectors to water.
The first malfunction occurred during rain, although I don’t know whether moisture is actually involved.
There have also been some previous abnormalities with the blind-spot monitoring system.
What I’m trying to figure out
My main suspicion is that this could be one underlying electrical or CAN-bus communication problem causing multiple modules to throw codes, rather than several modules independently failing.
I’m particularly interested in the instrument cluster, PCM/TCM communication, module power supplies, grounds, wiring harnesses, and the transmission range/park signal.
Has anyone experienced something similar on a 2014–2016 Mazda6?
Especially:
Tachometer dropping to zero while the engine continues running normally.
Multiple modules simultaneously reporting communication faults.
Intermittent loss of paddle shifters/manual shift mode.
Orange flashing START button with no crank.
Missing P/R/N/D indication on the dashboard.
U0155 and P2610 appearing together.
Could a single failing module, ground connection, power supply, or CAN wiring issue realistically explain all of this?
And are there any known trouble spots on the third-generation Mazda6 that we should inspect first?
I’m not planning to throw parts at it without proper testing. I’d really appreciate any experiences, diagnostic suggestions, or Mazda-specific information.
Thanks in advance!

I need help finding parts on eBay or any other website, I’m just a girl and I’ve bought parts and they been wrong. I need a grill and front bumper. This isn’t the regular Mazda 6 it’s a grad touring and it’s not only hard to find parts but expensive. I bought a bumper two years ago and it was the wrong one bc the headlights are different on a Grand touring.

Will this 6mm fit behind the plastic fender on the mazda 6 wheel well? Gemini is saying it might be a tight fit. Just asking if anyone has experience on this!

Ill be attaching the butyl on the SGM Black metal portion of the wheel whell (near the driver's pedal)

Thank you!

A 2021 Mazda6 GS-L! Absolutely loving it!

No information in the door sill, any clue what the color is?

Or any website where you can check (without paying) the color of your vehicle?

I'm saving up for a car and I happen to be a big fan of the Mazda 6. I originally settled to buy the Mazda 3 because I didn't believe I could afford to keep the Mazda 6 (maintenance, insurance, fuel and repair costs) but an acquaintance (who owns one) and my brother have argued that if I can afford to own a Mazda 3 then I can afford the Mazda 6.

I wanted to hear some more views from Mazda owners on the issue. Mainly on fuel consumption [I'm aware there are different engine sizes on both - Mazda 3 (1.5 & 2.0) and Mazda 6 (2.0 & 2.5). Are the differences big?],maintenance costs and repair costs and which car is objectively better. I know Mazda 6s were discontinued but I really love the car. I'm also a fan of the Mazda 3 so I want to make an informed decision. The Honda Civic is the back up option.

Any help will be much appreciated.

2019 Mazda6 2.5L — P0171 Lean Code, Intermittent High Idle/Stalling, Dealer Says They Can’t Find a Problem
I have a 2019 Mazda6 Sport 2.5L with around 57–58k miles. I bought it from a Mazda/Ford dealer earlier this year and it came with a Ford Blue Certified 90-day/4,000-mile warranty.
I started having an intermittent issue where the car would stall at a stop/light. After restarting it, the RPM would sometimes climb unusually high on its own while the car was in Park. At one point it was essentially “screaming” in Park from the high RPM. I also had an incident where the battery light and check-engine light came on after the stall, but they disappeared after restarting.
AAA checked the car and suggested possibilities such as the throttle body or an O2 sensor. AutoZone initially found no codes. I cleaned the outside of the throttle body, but the issue eventually happened again.
I took the car to Chapman Mazda. They initially said they couldn’t reproduce the stalling issue and that there were no active codes, although I had video of the behavior. They did a throttle-body cleaning/reset.
After that service, I had another episode where the engine started revving itself in Park. This time the check-engine light stayed on. I scanned it at AutoZone and got:
P0171 — System Too Lean (Bank 1)
U0401-00 — Invalid Data Received From ECM
The P0171 code is what really concerns me because it seems like the engine is detecting a lean air/fuel condition.
The dealership has now had the car for an extended period and says they performed diagnostics related to the P0171. They told me they checked the MAF sensor and fuel system/fuel-related items and ultimately couldn’t find a problem. More recently, when I asked for documentation of the diagnostic, I was told that they diagnosed it by driving the vehicle with a scanner connected.
That’s where I’m confused/frustrated.
If the P0171 is intermittent and the car isn’t currently throwing an active code, I understand that it can be difficult to reproduce. But I’m wondering whether there are other things that should actually be tested, such as:
Vacuum/intake leaks
Intake boot/duct or loose connections
PCV system
MAF sensor operation/readings
Fuel pressure/volume
Fuel trims (STFT/LTFT)
O2/A/F sensor readings
Throttle body operation
EVAP purge valve
Whether the engine is actually getting unmetered air
I’m also wondering if bad/contaminated fuel could realistically cause an intermittent P0171, or if that’s something the dealer may have suggested too casually.
The car currently drives normally and the CEL is off, but I’m concerned because I don’t want to assume the problem is gone just because they can’t reproduce it.
My main questions are:
Is a P0171 that disappeared after an intermittent high-idle/stalling event something that can legitimately be diagnosed just by driving with a scan tool?
What specific tests/data should I ask the dealer for?
Could a vacuum/intake leak cause the exact symptoms I’m describing?
Could bad gas cause a P0171 and intermittent high idle/stalling?
If the dealer says they “can’t find anything,” what would be the best next diagnostic step?
I’m mainly looking for advice from Mazda technicians or people who have dealt with P0171 on the 2.5L Skyactiv engine.

Hey Guys, my 6 has just hit 142k miles, and I need to get its annual service done.

I was looking back at the previous owner's record, and whilst he got it everything dealer serviced, I can see no record of a coolant flush / drain+fill on any of the notes. I saw online that it should be done at 120k miles / 10 years (which was when he had a service done but no remarks on anything with the coolant). How important is this to get done?

A lot of garages around me said they dont do it, Mazda is asking for £389/516 for a flush and fill, whilst a couple independent garages said £90 for a drain and fill (im assuming that's a radiator drain and not complete flush). Anything else I need to at this mileage besides brake fluid (2 years almost), oil (1 year almost)? Drives well otherwise and I got new tires last year.

So far been loving every second of it. Though I feel I over paid a bit, 6000 CAD 175k kms but clean title and good service records. The used market is rough. I was going to get a 2018 mazda 6 but I feel I am too young (21) to finance a 5-6 year loan regardless of my income. I am hoping to keep it for years to come.

Was wondering who else has some work done on their previous gen mazda 6.

I am looking to throw in new headlight assemblies, good seat covers since its clothed seats, factory trunk spoiler from the sports trim and nice set of black alloys. I have had already setup a new modern headunit.

Took a leap of faith and bought my first Mazda. My first baby, 2012 Jetta that I bought at auction in 2020, unfortunately gave out after 200k miles and I decided it was time to let go. I bought this 2019 Mazda6 touring, non-turbo, for 16k at 69k miles. My husband works for the dealer and had them replace the alternator that was bad and the blower that was making a horrible sound when we test-drove it, but other than that, everything was perfect upon inspection. But I do want to know what to keep an eye on, besides the usual maintenance.