Any ideas how I can safely remove the glass out of this cabinet door? It’s sandwiched between the wooden frame and won’t smash easily…

Product: 503.267.89

Are there separate shelves available for the Knoxhult 40 cm? I can hardly believe they aren't offered. I'd like to drill additional holes in a cabinet so I can have more than just the one shelf that comes with it. For my bathroom, I need dividers that are shorter than the 2x 35 cm ones.

Hi y'all! I'm changing the set-up in my garage and had previously used Ikea's VATTENSTEN led light strip. The usb wire lenght to get the light plugged into the wall was perfect. Now it seems it has been replaced by the KABBLEKA model, and now it is dimmable. It would be a welcomed feature for my new set-up, although the usb wire going from the light strip looks very short on the picture. Does anyone has the info on the usb wire length for the white only option? The store is too far for me to go check it out so I'll rely on delivery. Appreciate your help 🙏

Does anybody know a simple and convenient way to do something about the gaps in the Lixhult cabinets?
The space around the door is rather large, and I´m worried about dust getting in over time, like I want to shut that thing, don´t bother and not care about dusting the inside!
I´ve tried adhesive stipes with bristles in the past for other cabinets but those usually just ended up being annoying and inconvenient & kinda pricey for that annoyance.
Or does anyone have any experience with the Lixhult cabinets? Are they dust proof? (Am I overreacting with my worry?)

https://www.ikea.com/at/en/cat/lixhult-series-43919/

Hello there!

I would like to buy some Ivar shelves and do something similar to the image I attach to this post. I actually really like the tone of the pine and don’t want it to turn yellow/dark overtime. I believe in order to avoid this, I need to protect it from UV rays.

Thing is: I’m a total noob when it comes to wood treatment, I’m french but I live in Germany and I’m coming to you here in English. I’ve spent hours doing research but I’m still a bit confused regarding all the existing products, what they do exactly and if they would be the right call.

For now, I think I need a transparent varnish which protects from UV rays. But ideally I would need something that has a mat texture (or at least doesn’t alter too much the natural look and feel of the wood) and which doesn’t need to be re-applied every so often.

Here are some products I’ve seen:
- https://www.obi.de/p/7838725/obi-innenlasur-transparent-750-ml
- https://www.baustoffshop.de/saicos-uv-schutzlasur-fur-innen-n605-30409-grp.html
- https://www.holz-kunz.de/osmo-uviwax-uv-protection-2-5l-7266-fichte-weiss
- https://shop.natural-farben.de/Natural-UV-Protector/NL-UV-Protector

What do you think I should do?

Thank you very much in advance for your input!

I have several EKET box-style shelves with glass doors. These doors have very tiny knobs (if you cavern call them that: the door-pulls); it’s hard to get ahold of them, especially when they’re in the bathroom (as mine are) and your hands are damp.

I’d like to find something with a larger head. Not huge, mind you, just a little wider. Has anyone done this?

If I wanted to get crafty and attach a piece of sea glass to a knob, what would be the best adhesive?

Hello,

Looking for recently installed Ikea lehryttan blue experiences

\- particularly if youve been able to find a colour match to it ?

We are looking at using it, but need to print certain areas of the kitchen to match or go deeper and a colour match would really help the plan.

So far the paint shops in my neck of the woods don't have a spectrophotometer service, or the stars just haven't aligned for me yet.

Thank you!

I bought two IKEA BILLY bookcases used off Marketplace with OXBERG glass doors already included, so I'm not sure how old they are.

I sanded the door frames, applied STIX primer, and painted them with Benjamin Moore Regal. They looked great until I removed the painter's tape from the glass. There's a narrow strip of the original white frame that's pressed against the glass — it's visible through the glass, but I can't reach it to paint it normally.

I've already tried two suggestions I found online:

• Thinning the paint and trying to let it seep under the glass
• Applying a line of paintable caulk along the edge

Neither one has given me a clean-looking result.

Has anyone else run into this when painting OXBERG doors? If you found a way to cover that white strip neatly, I'd really appreciate hearing what worked.

Hi IKEA community!

Here for some help!

I am renovating my house. I am planning to buy an IKEA kitchen and buy the fronts from a company like Studiofedde, where we would choose really beautiful fronts.

The main questions are:

- Do you think the order of things in the kitchen makes sense? The only thing that cannot be moved is the CV boiler.

- In the plan, the hob is under the window, but I was thinking about placing it on the island. This is because the window it is placed under in the plan gets hit by the sun basically all day. I live in the Netherlands, so generally speaking 90–95% of days it is fine, but in the summer a few days can be quite hot, and cooking with the sun in your face is never nice. Also, to the right of the island there is the dining table, so cooking while facing the guests could be nicer than facing a window. At the same time, placing the hob on the island with those dimensions would leave only around 30 cm of space on the island for guests. That is suitable for a drink, but nothing more. Any opinion on this?

- Do tou have any suggestion on hardware to implement in the kitchen (not ikea) to step up the game?

But the most important question:

- How would you organize the space in the drawers in the kitchen, either based on your experience or expertise? Keep in mind that under the sink there is going to be a Quooker, and the hob is going to have air circulation under it. So basically the drawers will only have space on the side of the sink, under the coffee machine, and on the side of the oven.

Thank you in advance!

I was about to mount a Skadis on the side of my Platsa and realised that like an idiot I've put the top of my Platsa on upside down.

Looking at the assembly instructions there's no way to flip it with basically disassembling the whole thing. am I missing soemthing or do I have big job on my hands?

I want to use Hue Flex lighting strips instead of the Ikea ones, but I’m having a hard time working out how I’m going to mount them neatly.

The strip is nearly 15mm wide, so the type of mounts that go over the front of the shelf don’t work (the wider PAX shelves are too thick, and the channel for the LED is too narrow.

I’ve thought about routing a strip in the underside of the shelf but I can’t really find channels to suit.

Wondering if there’s a neat solution if anyone has come up with or seen?

Soon to be stuffed with my Wifes book collection, but my work is finally done. The counter top was made locally since Ikea doesn't offer anything that long. The ladder was an online kit that cost more than all the Ikea furniture.

I have a GLAMBERGET bed in my office and love it as a daybed, and thought “wouldn’t this make a good toddler bed? It’s low, it’s solid, and it comes with a step!”

Stained the bed with a chesnut gel stain and sealed with a matte clear Varathane, then added train shaped brushed nickel drawer pulls from Amazon. Here’s where we had the real privilege of getting custom: my in laws own a shop with a CNC router, and they made us the bed rail with the train engraved that I attached using the NATTAPA bed rail hardware (also from IKEA!)

We love that this can grow with our little dude ❤️

Hi everyone! 😁 Any creative IKEA hacks to hide the fibre optic and power cables near my TV unit? Not a fan of the basic white cable covers, looking for something a bit different! 🙌

Hi - Can anybody tell me is the 236cm height is the shortest height of the wardrobe? I’ve noticed there feet that can adjust the height, does this enable it to be taller?

Our ceiling is around 233cm so if anything, I might need to cut some off the bottom, has anybody had to do this before?

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I am currently using an ikea kallax as a room divider. I am thinking of using a Fridans as a projector screen for the kallax.

has anyone done this set up before ? if yes where would one recommend to mount the FRIDANS mounting bracket ?

if not this, does anybody have a clean solution to make this happen ?

thanks all :)

So pleased with how this turned out <3

Upgraded our toddler into her “big kid room” out of the nursery and flipped her Kura bed to the loft style, but we don’t trust her to safely get down with the ladder, so we used the trofast as stairs hack!
Löva canopy above bed to steer thoughts of standing up in bed away and I ordered extra of the brackets used for wall mounts and secured the bed and the stairs to the wall (can’t be overly cautious with a toddler)
Used the daggkaprifol picture ledge shelf as tonie character storage since it’s metal and the characters magnetize to it!
Sötenas was found in the as-is section in our store IN BOX and it fixed perfectly under the Kura bed for a lounge chair!
Toddler was over the moon ofc and loves her new big kid room

Any suggested solutions here to improving the wobbly and crap runners supplied with this Hemnes cupboard?

It's just such a shame that they economised on the drawers, a little research makes me think they don't sell a direct replacement. I'm handy with DIY stuff, so hoping someone has a better suggestion.

Wanted a corner desk with a good amount of storage space and decided to do some DIY:ing. I'm really happy with how the wallpaper peeks out from the sections I left more open and that the big one in the middle fits both of my monitors. Kind of overshot it with the "main" tabletop's depth with the Kallax so I might saw it down a bit in the future. We'll see.

As for the top parts, I know they won't be as stable. I have a couple of Ramshult brackets that I'm probably gonna use to reinforce them a bit. Other than that, I'm planning to use that space for smaller knickknacks like photos and not anything really heavy.

Parts used:

Kallax 5x5

Two longer spare part boards from a 2x2 Kallax

Two Lakgapten 120x60 cm table tops

Two Olov adjustable table legs

Two packages of Inlägg connection fittings

(One Alex bedside drawer to use instead of legs & get some MORE storage)

(Probably 2 or 3 Ramshult brackets to reinforce the top shelves so they don't start caving)

Of course we love the oversized cork that comes with this set, but this works great too, and is a fraction of the price of similar sets.

What says on the tin, I recently bought a LACK table to put in my living room with the purpose of drawing and painting on it and generally use it as an alternative work desk while sitting on the floor or on a pillow. It's way too tall however and I can't comfortably draw on it. Can it be cut safely or are replacement table legs available? How would I go about doing the former?

(cat for scale and aesthetic)

I wanted pegboard in places where a full IKEA Skadis board doesn't fit, so I designed one that prints in a single piece on a 220×220 mm plate.

It uses the standard Skadis slot pattern, so regular IKEA hooks, shelves and containers fit. Print as many as you need and mount them side by side.

A few details:

- Prints flat in one piece, no supports

- Print it face-down on textured PEI and the front comes out looking clean

- Wall spacers in two heights are included. The tab clicks into a slot and centers the spacer, then you screw straight through with a 4×50 mm screw

- Use at least 3 spacers per board

- About 4.5 hours and 150 g of PETG per board

PLA works fine, but I'd go with PETG for heavier tools or a warm garage.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3419000-skadis-compatible-pegboard-220x220mm-wall-spacer

Feedback is welcome, especially on the spacer fit. Happy to adjust if something is too tight or too loose.

Hacked this Besta/Kallax unit together today with bits and pieces I had on hand. Used the shelves as structural supports, cut them to fill the bigger gaps. Functions as a display cabinet for family photos, memories etc. Held together mostly with timber decking screws. Thing is as solid as a rock 😂 I used white hot glue to fill the seams and cover exposed screw heads (thats all I had on hand), will go back over it with gap filler or sickaflex in the future if I need. Hole saw to run the fairy lights through the unit, hung them with glue. Was a fun project recycling a shelf that was destined for the rubbish bin, didn't cost me anything, fuctions quite well, made it work with what I had 😆😆 what do you all think, love or hate the assymetry? Good use of space?

I've ordered an underframe for my horizontally-oriented 2x4 KALLAX unit. I read oodles of comments on the IKEA website describing eventual sagging of the shelving after installing the underframe, frequently due to a tiny gap (see picture) between the KALLAX and its steel base.

1. To help prevent sagging, I'm planning to install some plastic spacing shims between the two pieces. Please, how many millimeters is that tiny gap?
2. What is the material of the threaded foot which contacts the floor? Is it metal?

Thanks!