Such a blast.. We had a convoy of 7 coming from Texas and are already planning to be back next year. Over 100+ fits showed up, making it possibly the biggest Fit meet in NA. Crazy what these little machines have brought to all of our lives.

My ig: @17kountry
Blue GK5: @scootas.way
1: @killboydotcom
2-3: @129photos
4: @_iamasian_

I’ve currently got rain leaking through my rear seat belt port and a bucket catching what comes through. Is this from clogged sunroof drains or something different? I’ve had front drains clog and flood my driver side footwell but don’t know where the rear drains run to find a source. Any ideas?

Had her for 3 months best car ever

European spec, L13Z1 with i-VTEC and 100hp. Manual, of course. Top Luxury trim, meaning panoramic glass roof, automatic climate control, automatic lights/wipers, cruise control.

Added by me: EUDM/JDM sport bodykit, exhaust and spoiler; OEM rain guards, OEM armrest, Miata ND 16x6.5 wheels, 3D printed Honda center caps, Sony XAV-AX3005DB head unit, Tomei shift knob.

Ready for another 5 years of simple, yet stylish motoring.

Finally found mud flaps for my base 09 Fit, I think. The fronts fit, but I just can’t figure out the rears. Anyone installed these before?

TL;DR: back hatch will neither close nor open.

Something happened - kids opened and shut the back, a couple days later, I realize I can’t open it.

Problem:

The hatch can neither be opened nor fully closed.
The handle is stuck in the “unlatch” position.

The “door open” dash light and rear lighting aren’t on, telling me at least IT thinks it’s closed.

I think something got in the way when kids pulled stuff out of the back, and some whatsit got squished into the latch mechanism.

The poor thing now has dents from two “oh I got this” dudes who both didn’t “got it” and wouldn’t quit ‘til I was screaming to stop f* touching it, because I was afraid they’d pull the handle and whole back panel off. This is not a brute force issue.

It seems like it’s so close, like we should be able to just bump it shut, but it just… will… not.

Can someone give me an idea of what the latch looks like from the inside, I mean I can clear stuff out and crawl back there and get to the inside part…. Is this something where I can kinda wedge a spring open with a screwdriver or thin metal?

Has anyone dealt with this? Can someone take a picture of their own Fit back latch so I can visualize how to get there from here? Because I do NOOOOT have the money, time, energy, or patience to deal with a dealership…. But I am PRETTY HANDY. I just don’t wanna fuck it up worse.

Help me, Reddit Fit Sub!!

UPDATE!! That diagram was EXACTLY what I needed, I got the hatch open! And the handle doesn’t seem to connect to the latch. So …. NOW I need to actually do REPAIRS. :(

An opportunity has come up where I could add a Fit as a second vehicle. I currently have a truck so this would be nice for longer trips and city driving.

My question is about the pricing. It’s a 2020 sport (manual transmission) with 130k on it. I’d say it’s in average condition. Any thoughts on what it would be worth or what I need to check on it?

Recent purchased this. Getting a low rumble/growl/vibration on light acceleration. For a short period of time. I tightened the plastic guards under car but doesn’t seem to fix it. Then I videoed the right engine mount. Is this my problem?

😎

Hello,
This is my first ever car and I am wondering what is the best to replace this . Fit 2014 GP5 Hybrid dashboard. It’s a Japan import and I have no access to it. I’m in the UK and would want a good and affordable one please. What would you suggest please.

I recently bought a GD3 to use as a gas saving daily with the occasional autocross weekend. Is it normal for the brake pedal to have about 2-3 inches of travel before fully engaged? With the engine off, the brake pedal feels nice and firm, like every other car I’ve owned, but as soon as I start the engine and the brake booster gets pressure, the brake pedal sinks almost to the floor. When driving, you can feel the brakes start to engage as soon as you start pressing the pedal, but then it travels about 2-3 inches before it feels solid. It doesn’t instill confidence. I’ve replaced the wheel cylinders, adjusted the drums, replaced the master cylinder, bled 64oz of brake fluid to ensure no air in the lines, and quadruple checked for leaks. Am I missing something? Do the GD3 brakes just feel this numb?

Hi everyone. I want to start by saying I'm not a mechanic, and I'm not recommending anyone do this. I'm mainly posting in case it helps someone in a similar situation in the future, and to see if anyone else has experience with this.

I recently found myself 6 hours away from home for Thanksgiving when my car started making a noise that turned out to be the AC bearing (check my profile for a video). After calling around to nearby scrapyards, mechanics, and Honda dealerships, I couldn't find a replacement anywhere. My only other options seemed to be waiting 3+ weeks for a new bearing to ship or risking the belt failing on the drive home.

After doing some Googling, I found a few posts about bypassing the AC compressor with a shorter serpentine belt, but most didn't mention the exact belt size they used. I ended up giving a local mechanic a 34-inch, 6 rib serpentine belt (exact belt pictured below), and he was able to install it without any issues. However, I'm not sure exactly how he routed the belt.

I've been driving with it for about a day now, including multiple highway trips in the rain, and everything seems fine so far. Obviously, I don't have AC anymore, but this is only a temporary solution until I can get the bearing replaced once I'm back home. I couldn't afford to take that much time off work waiting for a replacement.

Has anyone done something similar before? Are there any potential issues I should watch out for, particularly with running a shorter belt? I'd appreciate any input or advice!

Is okay to push my oil change to 7500 miles usually change it at 5000 ?

I've been wanting to get a car that's better on the gas and good for longer trips on the high way. I wanted something with a hatch, preferably manual but doesn't have to be, good on gas, and extremely reliable. The fit has always been in the back of my mind as an option for years. It wouldn't be my only car but would be the daily. I found a 2nd gen 5 speed and he wants 14k for it. It's got 34k miles and from Texas. Unfortunately it's a 6 hour road trip to get there so just going to look at it isn't an option. Would you pay what the almost new cost of one is today?

I bought a Honda Jazz a month ago, used approved Honda 3 year old here in UK.

The main thing that comes to mind when I think of the latest Jazz model is that this car is incredibly smooth in town and very agile because that torque really kicks when you need it... It is very well put together, it has all modern essentials and it feels refined for a brand entry model. The active cruise control works well too. I believe this is the best city car in the market all things considered such as versatility. The reputation that this car has for being for old people is ridiculous in my view. I'm 48 years old.

What I plan to do is what makes people giving me a weird look when I say it: I plan to keep the car until it has around 20 years old.

I had a mk8 Civic from 2010 that I part exchanged for this one. I always respected the oil changes but the rest was a bit neglected. The car was starting to get a lot of rust in the undercarriage and the paintwork looked drab and full of scratches and chips. Now I plan to address these problems early on with the Jazz and take better care of it so it lasts longer.

Honda's, like many other Japanese brands, has soft paints so I had a plan to give it a little boost to protect the paintwork early on, so it will look acceptable when the car is older.

I had it applied a 7 year ceramic coating on the car. It was expensive and I seriously think I am the first person to spend 650£ on a Honda Jazz ceramic paint coating!

What I will do next, and perhaps the most important thing is undercarriage rust protection, again to delay rust problems and keep rust under control until the car is at least 20 years old. I will probably go with Dynax UC.

I will also wash the car more frequently, particularly in the winter freezing months, using self service stations and not machine washing to prevent both rust, paint swirls and fading.

Also in a chat with AI I got aware of other issues given the context of my mileage and routines. I mostly drive short runs in the city and do about 5000 miles a year. With this low mileage and short runs, the petrol engine doesn't have time to warm up and this can cause moisture and fuel vapours to accumulate in the oil and degrade it quicker. So the AI recommended me to either use the car for at least 30 min on the motorway every weekend of every other weekend or change the oil more frequently. The other issue with low mileage cars that do not warm up the engine enough, often tend to accumulate more carbon in the engine. This is probably what caused misfire and failed injectors on my previous car at the 15 year old mark. The Honda specialist recommended me to use branded fuel more often, as opposed to supermarket fuel (which I was using constantly), back when I had this injector problem, because these fuels have more detergents to clean injectors and AI actually advised me to once or twice a year use branded E5 fuel to give it a good clean.

I take what AI says with a pinch of salt but this makes sense to me... I was just wondering what are your views on this?

A couple of questions if you got this far into reading this post:

Do you know any good aftermarket mudguards for this Jazz? The original Honda mudguards are pricey... Did you manage to install the rear mudguards without drilling or removing the back bumper? I believe this facelift version of the Jazz uses the exact same mudguards as the previous one since 2020.

Do you think buying a Vgate iCar Pro 2S Bluetooth OBD2 Diagnostic Tool is useful to keep an eye on the car and the hybrid system? Or is this just a pointless toy when I'm not a mechanic?

Got new wheels tell me what you think don’t be afraid to hurt my feelings

Here’s my BOM Fit-box. Got it about 4 months ago. Full suspension refresh with front coilovers and rear lowering springs, LCAs, inner and outer rods, sway bar delete, all services, a Kenwood headunit, JDM wiper mod, made a cold air intake, using a Nuka Cola Quantum bottle for a coolant overflow, and I put a fart can on it. Very fun commuter car.

Need to know if she's Celestial or Tide Water blue:)

Bought for CHEAP “just needs a clutch” 2008 Base with 257k. I replaced and serviced just about everything, there are a few little things left to do, tires, detail, inspection etc. but she’s rippin!

I'm looking for a fun, manual daily that I can thrash at autocross on the weekends.

What are the pros & cons of the different generations?

Manuals for sale are few & far between, I'm noticing. 😬