I’ve been waiting about 5 months for the replacement motor from the company that supplied the original replacement and they’ve done send finally sent one the wrong variant and now I’ve been waiting another couple weeks for them to come pickup the one they send and deliver the proper one
For those unaware the fa20 s20 is its N.A. motor found in the ft86 community
And the e20 is its turbocharged wrx counterpart

Have not been given too much context from the shop yet, but upon tearing down my engine they found that a spark plug exploded and caused quite a bit of damage that resulted in knocking.

Would love to hear some additional questions I should ask the shop about this.

So for all the people saying I had oil issues or don’t know how to take care of the car, explain that one lol.

Either way, shop quoted $30,000 for a full rebuild, forged internals and a works stage 2 turbo kit. After hearing this price I am debating just throwing a new stock motor in, and buying another fun platform in the next few years.

Happy to hear anyone else’s thoughts.

I've had what sounds like a plastic on metal or metal on metal rattling sound right behind my left ear in my 2013 BRZ for months. I've torn the back interior apart, installed trd door stabilizers, dampened the whole car, and torn apart the b-pillar which is where it sounds like it's coming from. Anybody have similar experience with this and/or could share solutions?

Hey all, I did my first track day last weekend and had a blast, I want to go back for more in the spring, but I need some uprated brake pads and an oil cooler before I damage the car doing this more than once. I saw 257f oil temps as my highest during my 4 sessions and though I am running 5w30, I don't want to put the engine through that repetitively!

I am located in Canada, and therefore any kits from the USA are kind of out right now unfortunately due to the 50% tariffs currently in place on auto parts, the reality is that just makes none of their products priced even remotely competitively to us at this time. I had wanted a Jackson Racing cooler, but its out for that reason sadly.

I found this kit last night, from a brand HEL in the UK, they have a Canadian dealer and the price seems right. Setrab core, 200f thermostat, uses OEM oil filters... It seems decent quality?! Anyone have any experience with this kit? I found one review of their 2nd gen BRZ kit, but only the one, and nothing on the first gen cars. I think I would go with the 13 row core, larger seems overkill for my stock engine and max 15-20 min lapping sessions and I am worried about overcooling in the winter months as the car is my daily driver as well. https://ca.helperformance.com/hel-direct-fit-oil-cooler-kit-for-subaru-brz-zn6-zc6-2012-2020

Thanks for any input! I had such a blast at the track last weekend and I want to go back for more, but be a bit kinder on my engine next time!

Realistically how hard is it to wrap this car in my driveway with no experience

I recently got into a car accident other person didn’t have insurance, and my driver side door is cooked looking to get some help or if u have one to message me and see if we can work something out , got a 2015 Scion frs black

which one is better for engine longevity?

I just changed the sparks plugs on the car and then a day later this code came up and so did the oil and power steering light.

I recently got into a car accident other person didn’t have insurance, and my driver side door is cooked looking to get some help or if u have one to message me and see if we can work something out , got a 2015 Scion frs black

gas prices are crazy

Hey! I’m currently running the stock the suspension setup with stock premium 18 inch wheels and 215/40R18 tires on my GR86. Thinking of installing the RSR down for a mild drop and 20 mm spacers for a nice fitment. Anyone running that setup with the stock tires and wheels that I can see? Wondering also about the ride quality and handling improvement with that setup. Any insight is much appreciated!

Anyone got interior sound clips of indivia n1 and catless UEL headers?

I’m trying to convert my rear hubs from 5x100 to 5x114.3, but I’m trying to keep the cost down by sourcing everything through RockAuto, as I’ve seen other people do.
I’m aware that I need the 2008 WRX STI rear hubs, but I’m getting conflicting information about which rotors to use, especially since my car is a 19 ,86 with factory Brembos.
I’ve heard that the 2024 WRX turbo manual rotors work, but I believe that might only apply to cars without Brembos. I’ve also seen people mention 2008 WRX STI rotors and 17 wrx sti rotors, so I’m honestly a little confused about which ones will actually go with my car don’t want break pads to slip out later on.
If anyone could confirm the correct rotors and hubs for me pls anyone who has done the swap , and preferably link the parts for me pls from RockAuto, would go the gk route but it’s way out of my budget and would still have to re drill which i’m trying to avoid ,I’d really appreciate the help.I’m trying to get everything right the first time without spending more than necessary.
Thanks in advance!

Having a hard time finding the bolt number that holds brake line to the coilover if someone was help please thank you.

I have a 2015 BRZ and am going to do a MT gearbox oil change.

Question...

For those of you that have done this, did you replace the fill and drain plug washers/gaskets?

I priced up the part with Toyota and it's ludicrously expensive for a washer...

Cheers

I wanted to know what you guys consider to be essential mods, imo I think I need to get some window tints and fog lights, but what else is an essential to making your car comfortable on roads?

Ex: Fog lights, tinted windows, wide angle mirrors, tires, seat covers, sound deadening

My car's ignition advance multiplier has been dropping as low as 0.8. I did some logging and found a bunch of "knock" around 2500RPM, but it's mostly with the engine cold and low load so I'm not sure if it's knock or just something triggering the sensor. I can post the time series on datazap but the above figures are from many logs over many hours.

Is there an easy way to determine if this is actual knock or just something making noise? If it is just some noise, can I stop this happening without pulling timing from that RPM band?

Car is 2017 86 with Gruppe-S UEL headers, tune is OFT OTS v4.03. Only tuning tweak is IAM to 1.0.

Looking to see if I can get any advice for an issue I’m having with my FRS where the coolant is turning brown and giving off a strange smell. I refilled it just yesterday and it was already gone today when I drove it for a bit.
The AC did stay cold for a little, and the check engine light (which had come on) went off after a bit. On the way home, however, the problem started to come back with the engine starting to overheat and the AC warming up a bit. I’m sure if I hadn’t headed home right away the check engine light would’ve come back on. I haven’t gone to an auto shop to grab a new radiator cap, but that’s my next move. I also might have heard a leak somewhere under the engine after parking, but I’m not sure. Beyond that, does anyone have any ideas or has maybe faced the same thing before? Trying to figure out if I’ll really need to take it into the shop 😕

Does anyone have a hot lava with oem clear tails on it? I’ve been going back and forth on if I want to clear mine but I really want a visual and never have seen one w them. Thinking about photoshopping it atp 🙂‍↕️ the pics are my baby and then the typa clears im thinking of

I've been in the market for an 86 for a while now, but I'm really struggling to find one that meets the spec I want:

Pro spec, midnight blue, 2019 or newer, automatic (I daily drive the car)

Is this spec just super rare? I've only found one on the internet which was sold last year, for a fantastic price mind you, the person who bought this got the deal of the century:

https://www.cinch.co.uk/used-cars/toyota/gt86/details/efca714f-4c23-4830-995c-6e0d880be0ee

Has anyone else had similar issues with trying to find their 'ideal' 86?