New tire, alignment, shocks and struts, bushings and casings completely busted. Deemed a safety hazard until fixed. Hopefully it’s worth it to get it fixed and not spring for a new car.

Hello I have a 2014 fusion ecoboost car has been out of commission for a while with a misfire on cylinder one. Rings are shot and needs a new motor. Recently my friend has asked me what I would let it go for. Now I know I’m
Not sitting on a gold mine, but what’s a price for a fusion with a blown motor going for? Body is decent shape little corrosion on the hood interior is still nice no rips in the leather and it has options on it being a titanium.

87,000 miles

Comes with a national powertrain warranty

Oil was changed shortly before we bought it. It had a 91% oil life left according to the computer.

Inspection to get a sticker for the state we live in. Brake fluid flush, engine air filter change and cabin air filter change

Had to replace the battery as it was low voltage. Had to have the alternator replaced.

Had some issues with the throttlebody. They took it out and cleaned it and it seems to be running fine now

Does all of this sound typical? We're really looking to get to a place where we don't have to constantly have it in the shop.

I recently bought a used 2018 Ford Fusion AWD with the 2.0L EcoBoost and am trying to figure out what’s going on before spending money on parts. I had a P0303 cylinder 3 misfire code that went away after clearing it, but it has since returned as a pending code even though the check-engine light is off and the car feels completely normal. I also noticed the coolant reservoir was below the MIN line, although the level seems relatively stable over the last day or so and I haven’t confirmed a consistent drop when the engine is completely cold. My oil is a little dark but not milky, the level seems normal and hasn’t noticeably risen, although it does smell somewhat like gasoline. I also noticed the long-term fuel trim was around +18% at idle but dropped to around +7–12% while driving, while short-term fuel trim stayed roughly between -2% and +3%. The engine maintains normal temperature, starts normally, and I haven’t noticed persistent white smoke or rough running. I’ve read about coolant intrusion issues on these engines, but I’m also wondering about an ignition coil, spark plug, injector, or PCV/intake leak. Has anyone experienced this combination of symptoms on their 2.0 EcoBoost? What would you test first, and what findings would distinguish a relatively inexpensive repair from internal coolant intrusion? I’d appreciate any advice, has anyone diagnosed this themselves.

So this morning my buttons on my steering wheel, my turn signals, and my low, intermittent, and washer fluid functions stopped working on my 2014 SE. As well as all of my steering wheel buttons. I'm not sure what the issue was. But all of a sudden, they started working again.

It made me start wondering if my aftermarket android radio is the culprit. Occasionally I'll have to reboot it because I'll lose the steering wheel button functionality. I had noticed the wiper functions not working prior to the other things not working so I decided to reboot the radio and everything now works. So it made me think the issue the whole time was with the android radio. Is it possible that the steering wheel buttons not working also caused the wipers and turn signals to stop working?

I was originally thinking it could be a blown fuse or relay connected to the wipers but now I'm not so sure.

I paid $200 for the radio from China last year and I know you get what you pay for. For the most part, it's worked well for what I've expected from it. But if it's going to cause issues with my steering wheel buttons and signals and wipers, then I might just reinstall the factory 4" sync 1 radio and cd player and be done with the cheap Chinese radio. If that's even the culprit. I know the harness that plugs into the back of it has to have wires that go to the steering wheel and HVAC controls. But I just didn't think it would have wires for the wipers and turn signals in a harness. Like I said, the high speed wiper and the high beams worked on the steering wheel levers, but everything else didn't.

2020 Ford Fusion 2.0 AWD, 80,000 miles.

I bought this as my first real car in July, and since then I have put ~5,000 miles on it. So far I have loved it, but recently I have heard a few sounds from the RDU area that concern me.

Beginning a couple of weeks ago, I have noticed a dull or hollow thump sound from the rear. It only occurred when turning at slow speeds, and occasionally over small bumps (while turning slowly) It was not exceptionally noticeable, but I did hear it a few times over the week. I had some baseball cleats in the back, so I removed them, and the noise disappeared for several days.

I thought the noise could just be my cleats rolling, but as it turns out it was not. As I turned onto the highway up a hill, I heard a sort of crunch or grind from the same area, but this time, much louder.

I was already planning to do a change of the fluid in the differential, and I’m wondering if it could help. I also am unfamiliar with what the issue could be, and if this AWD system is known to be reliable or not.

any insight into this issue or past experiences with similar cars would be extremely appreciated

additionally, what fluid for the differential housing, I am getting conflicting answers as to whether or not it is 80w-90 or 75 SAE

what oil viscosity for 2020 awd rear differential? have seen a lot of conflicting information online

thank you for any information

I am needing to do some minor repairs on my 2017 Fusion SE . I am looking for a service and repair manual. Anyone with experience using these manuals. Which manual is the best to invest in?

Hi all!

I’m looking into purchasing a ford fusion and i had a chance to test drive a hybrid model from MY2013 with just over 100,000 miles. I’ve seen that the HF35 is known to have bad bearings and the cost to fix can be expensive because they either have to take out the transmission to fix it or outright replace it. For those who have seen this issue before was it at higher mileage and is it less of an if and more of a when for these transmissions?

Hi yall, im looking at getting a 2020 titanium. The only concern I have is the coolant intrusion problem. Ik the problem affects 2013 to 2019 2.0t engines but I would love to hear from other 2.0t engine owners to see if they still have problems or if the 2020 modle year is safe. Here is a link to the car if yall wanna check it out. https://www.luethjesales.com/inventory/details/used/Ford/Fusion/2020/Gladbrook/Iowa/6267540/F0825

also mb if putting a link in here is against the rules.

I have had a 2020 Ford Fusion S for 6 almost 7 yrs will 111/112k miles on it. Is it safe to wait till 150k to get it serviced. I’m no mechanic. Transmission doesn’t give many issues

So this morning my buttons on my steering wheel, my turn signals, and my low, intermittent, and washer fluid functions stopped working on my 2014 SE. I'm not sure what the issue was. But all of a sudden, they started working again.

It made me start wondering if my aftermarket android radio is the culprit. Occasionally I'll have to reboot it because I'll lose the steering wheel button functionality. I had noticed the wiper functions not working prior to the other things not working so I decided to reboot the radio and everything now works. So it made me think the issue the whole time was with the android radio. Is it possible that the steering wheel buttons not working also caused the wipers and turn signals to stop working?

I was originally thinking it could be a blown fuse or relay connected to the wipers but not I'm not so sure.

I need to get my front number replaced and 1 mechanic gave me an estimate including active shutter, and 1 without active shutter. I don't know which one i had originally, but I want to keep it running smoothly.

Also, the bumper does have some hairline cracks in it so 1 said get a whole new bumper and the other will put the old bumper back on.

I'm just overall trying to decide what to do to extend the life of my car. any advice would be appreciated. thanks.

So my 2020 Fusion has 87k miles on it.
About 6 weeks ago I started hearing a grinding/clicking noise coming out of the front left wheel when I would turn the wheel and apply power to it.
3 weeks ago I took it to a mechanic, he looked at it and said the wheel bearing was damaged and falling apart.
He replaced it. I drove about 300 miles and then I started hearing the clicking again. I brought it back to him and he was shocked that the new wheel bearing was damaged and it was under warranty so he replaced it this past Saturday. I drove back home(180 miles) on Saturday in stop and go traffic through LA.
Sunday morning I went to go get coffee. Back out of the driveway, that damn clicking sound, again!
Drive 2 blocks, hit a dip then the front left wheel seizes up like I smashed the breaks and then keeps going.
At this point I know I can't drive this car much longer. Drove it down the street to a local mechanic and they looked at it and said I need a new wheel bearing/wheel hub (for the 3rd time) and a new axel on the front left.
They repair it and I go on my way. Today when driving I didn't hear any real noises, but over time am feeling the same delay in movement when I press on the gas from a stopped postion. And almost like a light clunking sound. I did hear a Couple clicks out of the front left wheel today, but nothing like before.
What the heck is going on?!

Also new mechanic said front motor mount is colapsedZ could this be the root of the issue? With the motor mount collapsed causing more pressure on the whole drive train?

Today I became a member of this here subreddit! 2020 Hybrid SE with 68k miles for 11k from IAA.

Coming from a 2012 Chevy Cruze and I’m stoked. Let me know of any tips or secrets with these, thanks!

My car is currently at 103k miles. I brought my car to a shop to replace a broken CV axle at 101k. At 102k I noticed the axle seal was leaking on the same side the CV was replaced(passenger). Now at 103k the seal is leaking again. The shop is replacing the CV again and the seal. I’m trying to figure out since they are using aftermarket CV axles if this could be causing the seal to go out. They just got a new seal in and it’s not lining up properly and they don’t know if it’s a seal issue or not. I know 100% it wasn’t leaking before the CV axle change because I just did a second drain and refill of the transmission and checked both seal prior to them doing any of the work.

Full tank of mostly highway driving MPG this week with my 2016 2.5L SE

My fusion only has 61k miles. Recently, I noticed that at certain speeds, there's hesitation in the drive drain. I took it to be diagnosed at a ford garage because it wasn't showing any error codes. The ford garage told me it needs a new $7000 transmission. Please help!

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I just finished replacing the head gasket on my 2017 Platinum. It took me 9 days of working a few hours at a time. It felt really good to drive it for a half hour tonight to see if there were any gremlins.

It's not a small job but it is doable if you are very careful.

I used a Haynes manual and these videos for reference:

https://youtu.be/34municAvMQ?is=1KJ1judprZuqoaRD

https://youtu.be/sw16nUZV7JA?is=tCN7b1gS6C6g8fr8

I'm probably crazy for doing it but it seemed a shame to junk the car or do a full motor replacement. Neither of those options were in the budget and I couldn't afford to pay a shop to do the job.

187k miles, never had the fluid changed.

It's not a slip as I understand but more that it feels like the transmission takes a few tries before actually engaging to the next gear. RPMs don't surge without the car moving like with a slip, they seem to drop a couple of times within a second or two and then fully engage and then everything is fine after that.

Should I change the transmission fluid?

Am I sitting on a transmission time bomb?

Last week I drove from Hungary to Munich, Germany and back, mostly on the highway with the cruise control set at 75 mph. My actual average speed ended up being quite a bit lower, around 56–62 mph, because of traffic, construction zones, and slower sections along the way.

These are the numbers my battleship managed to put up. The car displays everything in European units, but converted to U.S. units:

Total distance: 907 miles
EV miles: 180 miles — mostly from construction zones, traffic slowdowns, and other low-speed sections
Average fuel economy: 44.4 mpg

I absolutely love this machine! <3