I'm doing my first gig working with film as a 1st AC soon. We'll be shooting on the ARRI SR3. I've loaded a handful of times but I've never pulled focus for film or rigged a film camera before.

What are the practical differences between shooting on digital versus film? Is there any extra equipment I'll need or something different I need to consider when working with film both in prep and on set? Any tips are greatly appreciated!

I'm having a hard time finding practical information about this on the internet, but if you guys know of any videos, books or internet courses that cover this please lmk!

I've worked as a DIT / QTAKE operator based in Thailand, working since 2012 on features, series, and commercials. I built a tool that puts the things I use on set in one app. It's called Ant CineKit. 14-in-1 pocket toolkit for film crews .
What's in it: 95 Camera & 261 Lens Database, Director's viewfinder with AR Sun trail, Sensor & Lens coverage, Data calculator, Depth of field calculator, Dynamic range, Angle of view, Digital slate, Film calculator, Underwater focus, Flicker free, Shutter angle converter, Data Transfer

https://apps.apple.com/ca/app/ant-cinekit/id6797132208

Any feedback from people on set is welcome. What would make it more useful for you? Thanks for reading!

Doing my first ever job with an FX6 and cannot for the life of me get it to trigger recording on a sumo 19 via Teradek. SDI out of camera into teradek transmitter. Sdi from reciever into the atomos. Tried most formats in the sumo, and multiple ports/cables. I feel like I’ve gone through all the normal steps, but no matter what I do it just won’t work. Managed to get RS from the Cpro working really easily so this is the final thing to work out in prep.
Done a bunch of jobs on Venice, f55 etc, and fx3 for that matter. But not this specific camera.

Looking to make this Upgrade Innovations articulating arm work with my new ultra 10. To my frustration the monitor has an arca mount so none of the UI vesa plates will work but I could maybeeee gerry rig an arca base plate to a cheese plate into this UI arm without the vesa base. Does anyone know the size and spacing of these threads? Appreciated.

https://upgradeinnovations.com/product/mms09-spigotmount/

Booted up my 703 this morning to find the display would only show these bars. This is with no input and just a v-lock on the back. Unsure of what is happening or how to resolve . Bought it back in january so should hopefully still be under warranty. Any help would be appreciated!

Already planning on hitting the Panastore. Anything else I should plan on doing?

Also totally down to grab a coffee or something with anyone who might want to meet up and trade war stories haha.

Looking for a Cfinder III to purchase, ideally in the US

Hi I was wondering if the original nucleus nano follow focus motor (image attached) can be combined with a newer hand wheel controller?

the old hand wheel controller (shown on image) is unfortunately damaged beyond repair. I’m looking for an affordable replacement, that will work with the original motor…

will a never version of hand wheel controller also work, or only the original one? I have read online that all of tiltas newer models are backwards compatible but I wanted to be sure.

thanks in advance!

I have also rtwp but I couldn’t find any relevant information.

Hello all,

I’ve recently acquired a used Cine13 for a very good price. While the monitor functions perfectly well, it does have some noticeable problems, such as; dust on the LCD panel, a burning plastic smell after being on for 30min, the joystick being slightly loose and the fan bearing getting slightly squeaky.

I have so far had it powered on for roughly 50 hours without any issue otherwise.

I come from a technical background, so I would like to open it up and have a look at the internals before sending it out for repair. I’ve managed to take all the screws and connectors locks off , but the back panel refuses to separate around where the battery connector is.

I obviously don’t want to pry it open and risk permanently damaging it.

I’m hoping someone from this community has some experience with opening these up and can share either a service manual or point me in the direction of what I’m missing.

Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I'm looking to add a second motor to my kit. I've been happily using a Mk 3.1 motor for years, so I'm pretty open to any of the models (except for maybe the MOTOR.S). I know people usually sell their whole setup as opposed to single motors, but maybe someone's upgraded and has an old Mk. 3.1 or MOTOR.X they're trying to part with?

Hey everyone, could use some advice here.

Our crew’s gotten bigger, so I need to pick up a few more headsets for shoots. We’re using a SYNCO Xtalk X kit right now, and honestly, it’s been fine.

There are more options in the lineup now, and support confirmed that the newer headsets we’re considering can work with our existing ones.

I’m not sure we’d actually get much use out of the extra features, so I’m wondering if it’s worth replacing all the old headsets.

SmallHD 1303HDR in excellent condition with mount, AB plate, cables, protectors, hood, covers abcd pelican plus extras. $2400 Los Angeles 91602. Shipping available.

Using a set of 8 Hollyland c1 pro headsets (master headset, no hub). Two of the headsets can speak, but cannot hear anyone else speak. Any diagnostics worth trying? We’ll try re-pairing at lunch when there is some down time, but curious if there is any button combo or other tech fix. Thanks!

Camera jimmy, Jaeger, the tilta boulder heavy ass but modular cart, I'm so indecisive. Seems like that all have pros and cons. Pricing and accessories pushing me towards tilta, sturdy ol'reliable mindset I hear pushes me to Jaeger and jimmy, well I just found out about them.

Just need some real world experience users to hopefully point me right

Edit note* I will be consistently needing to transport this in my SUV I can lift heavy carts and load on my own but good breakdown times are preferred

Edit edit* yaeger is looking to be what I'm leaning towards. Specifically flex. Thinking of getting the dove plate attachment and a top bar/pins for monitors

Has anyone used S8s for an extended period? On a series and we have two sets and we’ve had to send numerous back for service more often than we have had for any other modern lenses.

Front barrel coming loose, focus shifting and having to get them re-shimmed, elements inside shifting affecting contrast.

Checked them on multiple bodies, all similar issues.

Don’t remember ever having to send an S4 for service :/

Hi there,

I’m in the market for an intercom system. For the past year, I’ve noticed that people we’ve worked with have mostly been using the C1 Pro, which I really like. However, they seem to be quite hard to find in the Netherlands for some reason. The new SE Pro models, on the other hand, seem to be much more widely available.

When comparing the two, I find it difficult to see any significant differences apart from the SE Pro being newer, having better battery life and being cheaper.

Is there any significant difference that makes the C1 Pro the better option? I find it hard to find any comparison online between the SE Pro and the C1 Pro; the SE is more written about.

circa 160 "steps" from infinity to MOD.

What is your process for naming cards when recording raw externally on an on-board monitor as well as a card in-camera?

For example - currently prepping for a shoot that we’re shooting on an FX6 that is internally recording XAVC-I on SD cards while the on-board monitor is an Atomos Ninja recording raw. Both cards are A camera obviously and production doesn’t consider the SD cards proxies (proxies are being rendered separately).

Need inputs on valid replacements for the shitty Nucleus-M clamp to mount a motor onto an 15mm rod. Any help appreciated. That pieces is way overpriced, way too finicky and the thread the screw takes strips out so quickly if you want to really tighten the motor…

Recently, I just got a Teradek Bolt LT 750 HDMI kit for around 950$~ (both TX and RX), i’ve never used these kinds of Teradek before, but are they good?

Hey all,

I had a weird issue with my focus motor yesterday and am wondering if anyone would have an explanation or fix.

I was prepping yesterday for a quick shoot (alexa 35, zeiss super speeds) and I mounted my motor underslung from a 19mm rod. My motor is the teradek MOTR.S.

When I tried calibrated the motor, it was really struggling to turn and couldn’t completely calibrate properly. My torque setting for the motor is set to high.

To fix the problem yesterday, I moved the motor to one of the LWS rods so the motor is upright and suddenly I could calibrate the lens no problem.

So I’m wondering, is this an issue of how the torque is applied differently? I would like to keep my motor attached to a top rod so would I need a dog bone to get that result?

Thanks in advance!

Having an issue with importing a LUT to a Red Komodo. When I go to the "on media LUT's" tab, the .cube files simply don't appear at all, I made a specific folder for the files called "luts" and they're all 33x33x33 so that shouldn't be the issue. Has anyone else experienced this?

Edit to write this first : Body was swap nothing change ! Hi all,

I'm the data manager on a feature film currently shooting in France. We have a recurring corruption issue on our A-cam (RED Gemini) that nobody, including our rental house, has been able to solve. We're still shooting, so any help at all is more than welcome.

In contact with RED support they don’t have a solution yet

The problem

• Randomly, the first frame of some clips is broken into purple/white corruption blocks.
• In worse cases, that frame isn't decoded at all (shows as media offline).
• In the worst cases, the clip crashes every app: Resolve, REDCINE-X PRO, Silverstack. The only way we've read one is on Windows with an Intel GPU (Resolve flags the first frame offline but plays the rest).
• Nuke flags the corrupted first frame as a debayer error.
• The B-cam (RED Komodo) has zero issues, same workflow, same DIT station.
• Happens on almost all mags, randomly. No link to a specific card.

Setup

• Camera: RED Gemini, 5120×2160, 5:1 (sometimes 8:1), 25 fps. Firmware: last v7.4.1
• Media: RED Mini-Mags 120 GB & 480 GB (High Speed)
• Offload: RED reader → Mac Studio M2 Ultra, later replaced by Mac mini M4. Silverstack XT, XXH64 checksums.
• Checksums always match. The copy is identical to the card.

What we've already tried (no success)

Camera / power / media

• Factory reset of the original body
• Swapped for a second Gemini from the rental house: issue persists
• On the new body: no hot swap, power via D-Tap and Lemo only, all I/O accessories removed
• Tried brand new 240 GB Mini-Mags: issue persists
• Cleaned all connectors (mags, reader, camera)

DIT side

• Changed the backup station (Mac Studio M2 → Mac mini M4)
• Changed the card reader and its cable ( try new 240gb media)
• Offloaded fully isolated: no UPS, no internet, nothing else plugged in
• Updated Silverstack XT to the latest version

Playback / cross-checks

• In-camera playback before offload: the corruption is NOT visible.
• But if we put the offloaded mag back in the camera and play it again, the corruption appears.
• Reading the card in RCX on the computer before offloading: corruption is already there.
• Same crash from the card, a TeraCopy copy, a Finder drag-and-drop, the shuttle drive and the DAS.

Questions

1. Has anyone seen first-frame corruption like this on Gemini (or other DSMC2 bodies)?
2. Any known firmware issue, or a setting (pre-record, recording mode, format options, etc.) that could cause it?
3. Could mounting the mag on a computer alter the clip ?

Any lead, even a small one, would really help. Thanks a lot!