Want to higher a design to put a seat and adjust tilt table on the rear cargo area of the tricycle.

Need design to commission fabrication of mount for set and table

This here is a minibike frame in cad I'd like to make but I'm scared it won't be strong enough.

it's square tube mild steel 35mm 2mm / 1.4 inch and 1/6 thick. You guys thing it will be strong enough?

Edit: made some changes in cad, pictures can be found here and there in the comments

Was my test run for it today lol made some pastor tacos for my wife!

Gotta weld in the angle iron to hold the cast iron top higher off the stove but other than that it works pretty good the table top stays cool and bottom shelf doesn’t catch fire lol

I just picked up a used Makita LW1401 chop saw and the blade is nowhere even close to square with the table. There are no obvious adjustments on the saw. I rooted around looking for a solution but no luck. Anyone here know if there is even a way

I understand that
row 1: 0-180 right to left
row 2: 0-180 left to right
row 3: is the single miter cut number

But what is row 4: 0-110 used for? thought it might be the number for double miters divided for you but it i’m not sure if that’s the case anyone know what it is and is useful for??

Been having a lot of fun with these projects this bath month!

I feel like I’m slowly improving in my Santa Maria BBQ builds!

Made a simple gallon rack and bottle holder for my buddies detailing company!

My dad and I helped my neighbors and made an affordable barn style fence and double gate to help them keep their dogs in the yard!

Currently making a rocket stove built into small cooktop table for my friend that likes to go out camping! Just need to weld in the metal great for the table top/ lower shelf and test it out!

Overall been a really fun month!

If this isn’t allowed sorry.

Hey everyone, I am trying to make a number of museum quality bases using both 1/2 in and 1-in thick cell cast acrylic in gray, but I'm having a heck of a time finding it. And if somebody has the material that can actually cut it into smaller blocks and polish it for me that would make things all the better. Can anybody offer any advice?

What's up... I'm looking for diagrams or atleast a measurements guide for making brigandine braces and rebraces. I have canvas, leather and cheap sheet steel from work to play with (may drill out the rivets and upgrade to decent steel later, if I like the final piece).

I understand the basic shapes of the pieces (the fabric cuts and the plates/splints), but are there clear instructions to be found anywhere?

I got a great job working at a fab shop that makes grates, I’ve been offered a position as a welder if I can pass their mig weld/fab test (not structural). If not, I’ll be working on the production line loading the forge welders. I have a Lincoln 110c that I have practiced flux core with in the past and I can stick shit together, but I’ve never really made anything. Just ran beads on scrap. Does anyone have any insight on what I could do to practice for their test? I’m pretty handy with woodworking, but I’m a bit nervous since I haven’t actually used my welding skills for anything. Any advice is appreciated! Thanks

Hey Folks, newish to working with fiberglass. The best way to explain what I am tryingalignment to do would be to give an example. Lets say I am making a fiberglass hood for a car (once again an example). I have the 4 layers down and it has dried ontop of the template. If I need to cut it into several parts and then reattach them how can I add allignment tabs or overhangs to the part in order to make it easier to recombine at a later time? The actual project is much larger but the example gives roughly what I am trying to do. I have seen people refer to it as alignment tabs or overlapping tabs but I am not quite sure how to go about this.

Thank you for your time.

Needed a brutal brush cutter that wouldn't fold on hidden stumps, so I fabricated this:

Frame & Structure: Strenx S700 high-strength steel.

Skin / Deck: S500 plate.

Welding: ESAB AristoRod 69 wire for high-tensile joint strength.

Spindle: Lathe-turned shaft with heavy tapered roller bearings.

Drive: Direct-driven by Rexroth hydraulics.

Rig: Mounted on an articulated Bucher frame with locked Mercedes G-Wagon solid axles.

Survived brutal testing in thick overgrowth without bending. Full build video in progress—happy to answer any metal, welding, or geometry questions!

I have a covered tool body mounted to an 82 Dodge D350 that I am thinking of turning into a trailer so I can keep the tool body but not have to license, insure, and fuel another truck. What would be a good way to bend the frame rails inward to create an a-frame to mount a hydraulic surge brake tongue on? I am thinking that a piece of C-channel welded between the rails would give a good bend point but would heating the rails to get them to bend destroy the temper? Or should I just cut rails at C-channel and weld up an A-frame tongue?

This is just a thought I had so any words of wisdom from fabricators that have done this kind of thing would be appreciated. At 8mpg with a granny gear 4 speed it has been parked for a while. But with diesel prices it might not be too bad to put it back on the road.

So I got a bit of a problem with our autopilot engagement simulator project where the yoke is too far out to place a solenoid (which we found out, requires a return spring on the plunger but it lacks one) to pin lock the yoke. The control comes from an Arduino, we thought of using the solenoid as a friction brake instead of fully locking the yoke but it looks too complicated and I think it's too weak, being only 12v. What do you guys think?