Looking for some advice as a complete epoxy novice.

I’ve built this custom vanity unit out of marine plywood for a small corner space in our utility room. I have the ceramic sink basin and plumbing is all ready to go.

I want to waterproof it before installing it. I’ve bought this Epodex kit (https://www.epodex.com/en/product/epoxy-resin-for-table-tops-worktops/?colour=pebble-grey).

I’ve obviously checked the website instructions for using the Epoxy but I’ve read it’s rarely as simple or smooth sailing as one anticipates.

I am planning to epoxy everything above the blue line I’ve drawn in the second picture.

Does anyone have advice before I epoxy this structure?

E.g. wood prep. I’m already planning to gently round the sharp edges and remove any wood glue excess. Do I also need to fill any small gaps with caulk/filler etc?

Thank you.

I'm opening up a restaurant and my mom thought of this cool idea of covering the bathroom wall with coasters. Now she found some kind of clear coat to put over it so it doesn't absorb any water but it's not solid, you can still pick at it and people will be able to peel stuff away. I'm looking for advice on what to do and was thinking about putting epoxy over it and sanding it down polishing it Etc but I'm not really experienced I would love some help, let me know what you guys think!

I just need 1/2” of epoxy to keep the decorative glass in place
I’m in Tipton IN

Maybe this group can help me out. I want to do an epoxy flooring in my semi truck. Ive watched videos on a bunch of people doing it and using either pvc board or plywood. My question is, would i need to change my pedal mounting any if I use 1/2 inch pvc board? I plan on using sound deadening mats down underneath, but I dont see how it would change height enough for me to worry about assuming the epoxy doesnt pool to create a different thickness right there. Im not pouring in the truck, but getting the template and cutting out the board then pouring. TIA

First project with oak wood!

A new customer of mine is adamant that they want to go over the limestone perimeter aswell as the concrete floor.

I’ve strongly advised not to but they’re willing to ”take the risk”.

Has anyone had any long lasting jobs or any advice they can offer? Maybe an extra coat of epoxy on it after I fill all the divots?

It’s a flake epoxy floor btw.

Or possibly another sub that might help me? Its a 2019 bay harbor buck in a tux mug and i love the set. But ive cleaned this oneover and over and everytime it dries, the bottom half looks faded almost like its got a film of chalk on it. I chose this sub because i believe its steel coated epoxy and then painted but sorry if this is a dumb spot for it.

I wanted to share some photos of the floor I just did in my basement. I used Leggari epoxy products to create a galaxy-inspired look and wanted to share photos because nearly all the photos I found online were AI-generated trash and I wish I’d had more real inspo photos to use as reference. I used Leggari’s epoxy floor kit # 29 (black metallic base with purple accents) but added in pink, blue, dark silver, and white epoxy plus a heck of a lot of glow in the dark glitter and white spray paint flecks. I’ve worked with epoxy on a much smaller scale for crafts before, but this was my first attempt at a floor. My biggest mistake was running a bead of silicone around the entire room where the trim met the floor. Apparently epoxy and silicone are mortal enemies and the silicone repels the epoxy, so now I’m going to have to install a quarter round to cover the edges since I have about 1/4” where the epoxy refused to stick. That’s my bad though, and has nothing to do with the product. I‘m stoked with how it turned out. I had a great experience with Leggari’s customer service too. I called them a few times with questions and they were always very patient and got me the answers I needed. I highly recommend their products. 🙂

I’m planning to epoxy coat my approx 1100 sq ft garage and would appreciate some advice from experienced installers.
The concrete is fairly old and has some cracks, surface imperfections, and areas of white powder residue that I suspect may be efflorescence only around the wooden posts. I’ve attached some photos showing the current condition.
My current plan is:
Rent a Husqvarna PG280 diamond grinder and dust extractor to prepare the concrete.
Clean and fill/repair cracks and damaged areas before coating.
Apply LABPOX 30 (100% solids, two-part epoxy) in a solid tan colour.
Do I need any other coats on top the epoxy? I was recommended a polyurethane topcoat for added durability?
Anything helps thanks.

Hey everyone im planning on diying my garage floor and im trying to pick out what color flake to use.

Has anyone had any experience with the camo white color from magic resin? I cant find any pictures online of a finished project or something similar. Thanks so much!

So I have attempted an experiment. ( Which I kinda already knew it had like a 50% chance of cracking) By putting a bunch of broken Manzanita pieces organized the best I could glued down to a melamine mold. Tried bolting 2x4s to smush down some of the branches thin branches into the mold. The room temperature was 60° f which I thought would be cool enough but this just cracked like around 30 times which is crazy. You will be able to see the cracks in bottom right corner and the top middle. Most of them you cannot see due to bad picture quality unfortunately. So my question is if you guys have had enough experience. The dimensions are almost 100 inches long 48-in wide and 2.5 in thick on single pour. I think it's just because I did what everyone else said to not do a 2.5 in single pour. The epoxy I used was deep poor liquid glass 2 to 4 in. Is there an actual epoxy brand to where you can pour a 4-in epoxy at the dimensions I have said? Another possibility of how it cracked could be that my 2x4s were preventing melamine mold flex with the curing epoxy and then that made it crack. As well as most of the crack showed up where the 2x4s were hardly any at the bottom. I had two fans going across it as well full speed again at 60° f room temp. Any suggestions on better epoxy brands that can go to that extent without cracking? I guess I can just use the Japanese kintsugi style after dremmeling them out.

I have never done epoxy before watched a lot of videos and did research I had stone epoxy on my deck ripped it out was ply board subfloor filled joints sanded used technopol primer then hyperdesmo waterproof first coat then polyurea broadcast coat flakes then polyaspartic topcoat what you guys think

Hello,

Looking to get some tips. I have these old stone (sorry not sure exact material) that I’d like to just paint white.
Some have cracks that need to be filled in. What’s the best cost effective way to fill in any cracks/holes and paint it white?

Would appreciate any certain products that I can maybe pick up in Home Depot Canada and a step by step guide would be awesome!

You can see in the middle some staining. I've heavily sanded to where there is a groove bit it doesn't want to go away.

This is make. I never had the same problem when working with walnut.

Any tips on how to get rid of this?

Thanks!

Hi all,

The contractors came back that applied the first layers of the quartz system. (https://www.reddit.com/r/epoxy/s/3wTsz0IgWV) After a blotchy finish they blamed on our surface, they came and reapplied a tinted top coat. Now, the surface is covered in bubbles which were not present before. I’d have taken blotchy over this.

I don’t understand why they didn’t flag the surface as being a problem earlier on, but we still owe over $1k and I hate how this looks. This is unacceptable.

We are supposed to talk to them again today. What do we ask for? It is fall in New England so I don’t think they can grind and reapply given how cold it is getting.

Canyon-void root slab, split into two halves with one narrow strip of wood connecting them — it's doing the job of a hinge more than a structural member at this point. Edenvale cut, field seasoned, 10-12% MC on the pin meter as of March. 540x210x40mm.

Logged it as fragile rather than stable for exactly this reason. There's a bit of hairline checking starting at the far end too, away from the bridge itself, which isn't helping my confidence in it staying in one piece through handling.

Part of me wants to stabilize that connecting zone now, before it goes anywhere near a buyer's hands — some thin CA glue or a resin fill along the hinge line, nothing dramatic. But the whole point of documenting urban salvaged pieces individually is showing them as they actually came off the stump, not pre-fixed. If it snaps on its own before someone decides what to do with it, that's kind of the answer too. Reinforce it now, or leave it as the risk it already is and let whoever ends up with it make that call?

I have a large percentage if black walnut l. I am making ut into a head board, there are a lot of small cracks, not deep and the widest being 1/16-1/8 wide. There are also a few holes the biggest is 3/4 diameter and 1.5 deep. I happen to have deep pour epoxy on hand can I pour it on my slab and use a puddy knife to move it around and fill the voids?

I had my basement floor epoxied by a licensed company over a month ago. My basement slab was fairly uneven/wavy. The original quote was for 3 i guess prep/base coats then the final metallic coat. The final coat before the epoxy he said was the thickest and would get rid of most of the uneven appearance in the floor. Once he did those 3 coats he decided to do an extra coat of the thicker base coat to make it appear even flatter. Then he did the epoxy coat. We waited 7 days before putting anything on the floor. 2 days ago I noticed a bunch of marks on the floor where things were placed. Even a 20lb fiberglass ladder left imprints in the floor. 2 days ago I brought my central vacuum downstairs and I noticed now that even that left imprints. Clearly the epoxy being soft like this is not normal. All these imprints in the pictures are felt with a finger.

What are my options for repair ? I want to make sure this is repaired right by the contractor and not a bandaid. Will it have to be completely removed down to the concrete or can it be grinded down to a base coat and reapplied?

Can someone possibly help me understand where he went wrong so we can avoid a repeat ? Was there too many base coats applied or too thick or is this simply a mixture issue ? Tempurature ?

Garage conversion. Epoxy paint on floor applied by contractor and several days later they applied a topcoat sealer. It is still tacky after a full week. They used a Sherwin Williams product. Why did it not dry?

Hey all,

At the very early stages of planning my first epoxy coffee table project and looking for advice. I will be doing some wood covering the corners/edges of the table, with objects in the middle (thinking playing cards, poker chips etc… my family is huge on cards/game nights) I’ve never handled/dealt with epoxy before so any advice, tips/tricks, things you wish you knew before doing a project etc. no matter how “obvious” it may be, would be greatly appreciated!!

What is the best brand/type of epoxy to use for silicone casts of trinket dishes, bowls, small vases?

Did the garage floor couple of weeks ago with Rust Oleum from home depot. Did all the prep as described. Scrubbed the shit out of it with degreaser it’s pretty new cement. Used the etch. Is it going to pull off and how do I fix it. Thank you!