I have a glass bed, but I wanted a textured base in my prints. I stuck sandpaper on the bed, and somehow it works perfectly.

I got a clog out but it took a lot to get the nut off and had to heat up the hot end to get the Bowden tube out.

Then I saw the heat sink (?) had gunk in it and so did the Bowden tube. I was wondering how you clean it out? I was thinking acetone (I got hot glue off of the motherboard with that).

Gear isn’t the issue, nozzle isn’t the issue, the tube isn’t the issue.

Just inherited an Ender 3 Max and looking to get it up and running as it hasn't been in use for over a year. It's currently bone stock. I have gone out and got a CR touch kit for it. Is there anything else that would be a good out the gate upgrade.

But here I begin instead! I decided I needed to learn the pain to understand the comfort. So far I've relocated to spool, and added a wyze cam mount for an old security cam.

I've been working my way up. Of course some how to train your dragons for the kiddos, a small box, trying out a toothpaste ratchet. $100 CAD with a couple partial spools was a lot cheaper than $1k to try out a p2s.

Learning orca settings, keeping a clean bed mat, paper setting the 4 posts. Now I'm addicted, and wondering why I waited this long. Sparky and PC nerd, I should've started years ago!

Ive pulled my ender 3 from its long rest and it has a pretty outdated firmware and was wondering if anyone had any up to date pre-compiled .bin firmware for the v4.2.2 board and a GD32 controller running a CR touch. Thanks!

I'm digging through reddit and with no surprise find that everyone suggests to just make your own, the cr touch on my e3 pro refuses to work, old mb died so I figured why not spend some extra and get something nice, and it doesn't work worth a damn, Ive tried custom software, stock software, the software form the github, pretty much anything I could find. most of that software is okay at best, some of the custom stuff screws the gcode up when printing from the sd card, and others send it into thermal runaway from 228c, or lastly the cr touch simply doesn't f**ing work. Im making this post as an attempt to see if anything worth my time is available. if all i get is "switch to klipper" and "make your own" I'm going back to the stock mb, cause at least it works out of the box.

Edit: I was rather frustrated while writing this. While I’m not against klipper, I’m stubbornly against AI or reprogramming something that I was told was plug and play.

SOLVED.

Hi, I recently bought a 3D printer and took on the task of repairing it. I’ve already cleaned it, but while it prints well at times, the prints sometimes come out looking like cobwebs or lint. Does anyone know what could be happening?

Can anyone diagnose this print give me solution

I am using num makers ASA filament

Nozzle temp - 260c and bed - 105c

And my nozzle size of 0.8mm

I figured out how to do Z-offset (@ -.07 rn) and leveled all the sides with individual boxes + paper test.

I read there’s an outflow thing I might need to fix tho?

Otherwise, how does it look?

20 min benchy, super small vers.

Been printing for a year now. Took an older used one. Upgrade here, upgrade there. Horror posts all over and this evening it finally happened to me. THE BLOB. Hoping it didnt ruin my hotend, but its gonna be a loong work day before i get to cleaning it. Also wondered why my bed was cleaned. First blob cleared the bed and second formed after.

Yea.... Just Switched to Orca. The Part itself looks clean, The layer and the bridging is way better than in Cura, But holy Stringing. Any uh.... Help?

Ender 3 pro on a Basic PLA from esun btw

Some great advice and lots of unhelpful comments so trying again. This is what I have so far. Not sure where to go from here. Can get a multimeter tomorrow but seeking any advice tonight to try to troubleshoot

I’ve been having problems with irregular or inconsistent layer lines on my Ender 3. The lines appear random but are consistent across prints. The leadscew is very slightly bent but I’ve read that it should be fine. I’ve installed a Z axis motor spacer, made sure there is little resistance in the filament path and also checked the extruder for any cracks. Any help would be appreciated.

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The fuse is brand new, the ring is for reference, and although my prints havent been afected yet i think this is the cause of the old one being bent. i have taken out and put the motor back and it didnt do anything, since its shifting to the side i cant shove a coin or something between it and the structure to correct it.

I recently bought 2 ender 3 pros, I also own a ender 3 v2 when trying to set these up the home seems to be higher than the print start and was causing issues when printing how would I make it so my print start is the same z axis?

A friend recently gave me an ender 3, because the power supply died, and the base was totally disarmed, not how it came in the box, and if someone could send a photo for reference or a small guide, i would really appreciate it

Extruder gear is looking worn so I'm looking for suggestions on a better one. Everything is factory on my Ender 3

I recently installed a bl touch with a direct drive extruder. I got most of the things figured out. But when I print now I have only had success when printing on a raft. When I try anything else it seems to just push the filament around.. another fun fact is the raft doesn't peel off like it should. It's literally stuck like a regular layer to the print.

Any idea what I should do?