orient blau ZHP just spent 2 years rebuilding it hate and love this car…

Hi all,

I have a 2004 330i on standard suspension and have been researching wheels and tires for weeks and am going with 18” Apex Arc8’s. However what’s not clear to me is the optimal setup for direct fitment. Apex recommends square 18x8.5 et38 on 235/40 tires but I prefer not to try and find 235 tires, just wanna go with continental or Michelins.

My question is this: what is the optimal setup for direct fitment? (btw I am fine with a bit of fender rolling if absolutely necessary but I don’t want to “chase” rubbing reduction).

1. Square: 18x8.5 on 245/40 or 245/35 (will there be rubbing) offset??
   
2. Staggered: 18x8.5 in the front on 225/40’s and 18x9 or 9.5 in the rear on 245 or 255 (is 35 or 40 tire wall measurement better) offset??

Please share your experiences with 18” fitments and offsets so I can finally pull the trigger and not worry about rubbing.

So I have undone everything in the area and I need to pull the fuel rail up but the O rings are so old that it’s a bitch. I only need to swap one injector. Any tips for removing it without breaking the other ones? I tried shaking the rail and pulling up to no avail

So I’m selling my 07 civic hybrid and someone offered to trade a 2001 325i Automatic with 247k miles. Haven’t asked about maintenance but according to him (3rd owner) it was a well maintained family car. It’s really clean and everything seems to work. Wasn’t going for it at first because I want to sell but how bad of an idea is it to take the trade. I’m able to do all the work myself if I decide to keep it. Initially thought of just flipping it but noticed high mileage ones don’t go for all that much either. Interior and exterior are in pretty good condition other than the torn seat. Just high miles. Still in talks. I’d be new to bmws and German gars in general since Ive only ever owned jdm cars. Anything I should know before pulling the trigger. It’s grey with a black interior.
I just reread the description while taking the screenshots and apparently the engine was replaced and should have around 90k miles. If that’s true i think it’s worth it.
Still any input would be nice

Its under the secondary air pump and has left a white residue under it.

There is that little square piece on the sill and it doesn't seem to fit into the trim? The only spot I can see that'll fit is if I can push it down further to get past the barbs. But it seems to not go.

How do I get it to fit in properly?

Thanks

I had the famous internal failure. Ordered a used one off ebay matching part number of my original unit. After activating the abs and using my schwaben foxwell tool to calibrate the steering angle, it showed no faults. Im guessing it didn’t need coding ? Cause it would throw errors if it needed it right ? Also the dsc button works and as said no faults no lights on dash. Maybe it was already programmed before ? Any ideas and do i still need to program it if it has no faults and works

Hey everyone!
I’m trying to reconnect my CCV hose. When I removed the intake manifold, I connected the hose, but while putting the manifold back on, the CCV hose somehow came disconnected from the oil separator.
Unfortunately, I only noticed it after I had already reinstalled and connected most of the other components.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks for reconnecting the hose without having to remove the intake manifold again? Access is extremely limited, and we’re struggling to get it back into place.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

extra info. Happens when switching from 1st to reverse. When inside the car it's coming from under the center console and under the car is seems to be near the front of the driveshaft. Pretty sure it's the handbrake cable but would love some second opinions!

Hi,
So my electric fan conversion isn’t going as planned.
First module made the fan turn on high speed constantly.
Second module I took from my front fan and didn’t turn on at all. My next try is to buy a new module from Ali express. Has anyone had any luck with these or are they shit?

As can bee seen in the image the cable is wayyyyy to long. This is a new carrier with the same part number as the old one. Is there anyway to shorten this cable? My car is a RHD coupe and this is the drivers door (RHS door).

Image 2.

Also i have a spare actuator, however it seems that the latches are placed on the other side? Is the actuator in my car the wrong model? For all I know the previous owner could have tried to rrpair it with the wrong part. As this issue has existed before I bought it.

Thanks

E46 M47Tü. Hey. Is there any way to change the coding data on the instrument cluster so the water gauge shows a true reading instead of a buffered one? A quick look with NCS Expert gave me 0 results. I have a CH341A lying around and I am comfortable with desoldering EEPROMs or On-Board reading. Just wanted to know if anyone did it before me, and what other options I have. Maybe there are other tools needed, maybe it can be done via OBD alone. Any suggestion is welcome.

Hello everyone! On my e46 325I 2003, my key does not unlock or lock the car, the key starts the car and the central lock button works as well. What might cause this? Thank you very much!

[M54B30 06/2002]

Hello there,

I have a problem with my oil pressure control lamp;

when I turn the key to position "ignition", the lamp already turns off after 2-3 seconds. (No engine start)

If I start the engine, the lamp will continue to stay off.

I know for a fact that my old oil pressure valve inside the housing was bad, I switched it out yesterday.

So it could not have been enough pressure inside the housing.

Other than that, when I drain the oil for an oil change, it also turns off while the ignition is on.

That means at the moment I have no way of knowing if my oil pressure is enough.

I already changed it out for an original new one, straight from BMW. So it should be the correct one in good quality.

If I understand correctly, the lamp will shut off when the switch closes (Pressure is applied), which means it grounds to the chassis/engine.

In this case, the cable couldn't be broken because it would loose the connection to ground and show the light.

What ways do I have to check it?

At the moment my best guess is, the switch functions the wrong way. I have a 2002, in that year a lot of things were changed to facelift, maybe that could be one of the things. But it wouldn't make sense to change something this important without any documentation to find.