Cruze started overheating intermittently (no shock). Past couple weeks I’ve been driving it’s bounced up to the mid point instead of a notch below where it usually sits, then would go back down, and periodically continue doing that. Today, drove over an hour with no issues until I was about home & it actually started overheating to the point it turned my ac off. I pulled off, didn’t turn the car off yet, and it bounced right back down to the notch below the mid point. Turned the car off for awhile, turned it back on to get home & now every time I drive it’ll bounce around. Sit normal, start overheating, bounce back to normal & start overheating again. I’m getting it checked out tomorrow, just want some ideas as to what it could be before then/things I could check out. I’ve also been hearing a humming sound when it starts to overheat so I’m wondering if it could be the radiator fan going out? Idk. Thanks in advance.

2014 1.4 LT Turbo

Car Turns On. idles at 800-900RPM. Gives LOTS of codes. i removed the intake manifold during maintenance and unplugged the Battery first then the MAF, MAP, Coolant Temp Sensor, Boost Solenoid, Boost Pressure Sensor, Both Cam Sensors And o2 sensor.
Now it’s giving codes

P00EA, P0236, P0237, P0238, P2227, P0135, P0131, P0068.

While Driving and i accel fast my dash says:

Engine Power Reduced
Service Traction Control
Service Stabilitrak

Then goes completely limp until i restart the car

While going uphill i have to push to 6000RPM just to make it up a hill.

WTAF is going on :(

I recently replaced my valve cover gasket, and it’s already coming weird in some spots, but I didn’t use any locktite so I know for a fact some of the screws have gone loose.

I’m going to re-do it with a felpro gasket and locktite. Is there a specific kind I need to be using?

I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze and whenever I get somewhere around the below half way mark of gas my check engine light will come on a present me with a knock combustion blah blah blah code, but when I put any amount of gas in it (I been using 87) it goes away and comes back when it gets low again. The engine has the word turbo on it and I heard mixed answers some saying turbo engine needs premium gas and others saying it doesn’t matter and I should use 87?

I have my first car and it’s a 2016 Chevy Cruze I got it in August at 87 or 88k miles I now have almost 90k miles. Everyone has been saying these cars are bad and I’m just nervous if I made a mistake but it has been reliable with no issues. Just wondering if it’s a reliable car as long as I keep up on maintenance , it’s a monthly car payment so yeah. Maybe people are fear mongering I don’t know

^{I think old unreliable is giving up, today i ran out of coolant so i put some more forgot to put the lid back on, i drive for a few mins and the engine overheating came on, i pulled over popped the hood, saw the cap was off, and refilled my remaining coolant. I drive a bit more and it comes right back on and then a check oil level came on, i pulled over saw white smoke coming from the hood, opened the hood, and saw my coolant dripping out.. it was either white steam or oil, additionally when i took out the oil dip stick i saw the white steam/ burned oil just swooping away in the engine, could a head gasket, or valve gasket, or is my engine just fucked, and i need a new one bc the engine in a 1.4L turbo my cars manual said to use 87 but dont turbos need 93. anyways i think hold white is a goner}

Started with a Po299 code and a p1101 code. Had to replace turbo. (Wastegate flap) Now im getting this pink film over turbo. Is this coolant? Lines don’t seem to be leaking. Car feels a lot better. Now I’m getting an overboost code with a P1101. Just trying to fix and get rid of it! 1.4t Gm LE2 engine.

Recently had to have a shop replace my lower radiator hose. The shop returned my car the following day and when I went to start it up it started terribly and the check engine light was flashing. After turning the car off and starting again it started up like normal and no more flashing light. Had the code pulled and it's p0300 but it says pending?

It's obviously a misfire but why only once? I know there's been issues with people getting contaminated gas in the area but how can I tell what the issue is? I drove the car around for about 30 mins making sure to stop and start a few time to try and replicate the issue and it didn't happen.

Could somebody please point me to the right replacement hose for my car, it is a 2012 Chevy Cruze LTZ

I have replaced many parts of the cooling system in the past and know it’s a common issue

I have a 2014 1.8 gas. Does anyone know if the Temp Sensor in the Coolant thermostat housing and the one in the radiator are the same. I’ve looked at old posts and searched online and I’m still not sure. I was told they are the same except one has tin plated connectors and one has gold. Called parts store and they couldn’t figure it out either.

I’ll try to make this short. My 2013 Cruze 1.4L I replaced the head, cams, valves all that in one complete unit. Also replaced intake, valve cover, timing chain, timing cover, alternator, spark plugs, both VVT solenoids, both camshaft positing sensors, crankshaft position sensor. It’s still throwing p0016&p0017 codes. Engine bounces between 600-800 RPM shaking and chugging. I put it in gear and hit the gas and it falls on its face, barely any power at all. Can someone help me narrow down what the issue could be?

After a hell week involving a dying battery, a (potentially) faulty door latch microswitch, and buying a Cruzekit, my final straw with Coraline was... This. Damn you, Coraline the Cursed Cruze.

1.4lt Chevy Cruze, currently making a spreadsheet on what to replace as preventative maintenance/improving the car, sitting at 148k miles.

I had to spend $460 so far for the coolant/overheating issues(smooth so far!) something is up since check engine light still shows up+check oil even though the oil is full/filled. I will check the code later this week Friday at a nearby auto zone+look into replacing the brakes and rotors (it makes a grunting sound when it brakes).

I’ll install a catch can with the cruzekit and later on replace the stock turbo, but how long can it realistically last for? If it lasts up to 200k miles, it definitely has done its job but I do want an estimate to see as my first car.

Those of you that have had both Gen 1 and Gen 2 cruzes, what are the pros and cons of each?

I have a 2015 Chevy Cruze LTZ 1.4 turbo and some reason the rpm keep going up and down while I’m waiting at the light but it doesn’t cut off. I already replace pcv value cover, map sensor and maf sensor. Any suggestions of why the rpm keep going up and down?

My friend has this 2019 Chevy Cruz that she bassically just got its nowhere near new in fact is had about 157k miles but after scanning and doing a look over myself the dip stick housing smoke lightly when the car is on and soon after turning it off and the oil on said dipstick is overfilled towards the handle of the dipstick. But that’s not even the main issue, the main issue consist of what I can only assume is a faulty MAF sensor which is causing an under boost code does anyone have an idea what the issue could be? Other than the PCV like I understand full well it could be the PCV but that’s been overstated almost everywhere we looked. And she’s tight on money so she 1 dosent want to pay a shop for diag and 2 dosent want to buy parts until she 100% knows the issue. Any help is welcome

I’ve checked the thing about the P0299 code and while I’m not sure if she has replaced the recalled part I do know she says the check engine light originally came on when it got colder but we live in Lubbock Texas so colder meant around 70 degrees maybe 50 (I don’t remember all to well) but that was only for a week and it dosent explain the other codes. Once more any help is welcome and needed cruzers

Normally when she throws this signal, the temp gauge drops to stone cold. A tick below halfway is her normal running temp. 2014 Cruze Eco 1.4L
Edit: Temp gauge was jumping around the first ten minutes or so of sitting on the side of the road. After about thirty minutes it settled at a quarter so I decided to drive home and watch the gauge myself (about a ten minute drive). When I started the engine the high engine temp warning went away so that was nice, but then I noticed my turn signals were off-beat and sort of erratic? How likely is it this may be electrical related? Thanks all for the help and suggestions!

My sensor on the intercooler hose is loose and being held on by ducktape. I know it’s definitely not optimal but i’m curious if that would cause any problems or anything major. It also appears that there’s a slight oil leak at the end of the tube and oil coming through the sensors socket

I have a small coolant leak in this area. 2012 Chevrolet Cruze 1.4 L turbo with 175,000 km. It seems to be pooling on top of the spot circled slightly. I cleaned it about 2 weeks ago and there's a little bit more wet coolant there.

2016 Chevy Cruze LT constantly sitting under the halfway mark and yesterday got an “overheating, idle engine”warning. Originally I thought I had a leak in the coolant tank(which I did) so I got it swapped for a better one. Hadn’t had a problem for a few weeks. Yesterday I worked quickly then opened the engine to find the coolant tank almost empty. Had some more 50/50 in my trunk so I filled it up then watch it fall back down almost immediately. Put in some more and then stayed level for some reason. Seen people on here say water pump thermostat or the tube that connects the tank. Is there some tests I can do to find out what’s causing the problem without just swapping everything?

Tl;dr: I cut and spliced some wires, and now my car won't start.

So, I was trying to install the backup camera that goes with my radio. The radio works fine and has been installed for a few months now. During that process, I made the genius decision of disconnecting a connector (left side of driver footwell) it's a real big one, with a lever to lock it in. Well, I broke the lever. Not sure if it was just weak from age or if I'm a brute. Either way, i can't "lock" it in place anymore.

After it was unplugged and reconnected, my car would no longer start. With the key in the run position, the dash shows a notification for low fuel and power steering service needed (neither of these are true, I have fuel in the tank). When turned to start, the dash goes dark, and i hear a relay in the cabin fuse box, but the engine doesn't crank.

I cut a few of the wires while i was looking for a way to signal the backup camera to turn on. (Followed a wire from the reverse light to the front.) As best I can tell, every wire is connected. They are as they were, there's nothing jumped off of any of the connections.

Is there any way I can reset something with the control units so they will resync?

Edit: I took some clamps and squeezed hard on the plug to push it together. Seems like everything is functional now. I'm not saying the lever lock connectors are the best option, but they do work, and I felt more confident in them than the butt splices I had used originally. I'll be heading to a junkyard to get the plug housing and replace it so that connection stays together. Thanks for your input, everyone.