Edit:

"Here's an update on what happened and why I haven't posted anything for the past month.

We were in Flatanger when my wife Sara noticed something unusual in her throat. The doctors told her to fly home and get it checked immediately, so we flew back to Italy for a biopsy.

The results took longer than expected, so we decided to return to Norway and wait there, so we could bring the van back to Italy if necessary. We were still hoping it was nothing serious and that we could stay longer and keep climbing.

Unfortunately, the medical report confirmed that it was lymphoma, so we immediately drove back home with our van."

After just a few more days of medical tests, Sara had her first chemotherapy session last week and began her journey to recovery.

It's going to be a difficult journey, both physically and mentally, and it's already been tough so far. We were scared at first, but we're now confident that she'll get through this. Sara is strong and resilient. She's already been through a lot in the past, and I know she'll get through this too.

We're incredibly grateful to our friends, family, and doctors for taking care of Sara and supporting us through all of this.

•

As for Silence, we'll be back stronger next year. The route will still be there."

This article is a great read with lovely photographs. It's worth reading the comments, too, though, inevitably, some are from people incredulous that anyone risks climbing anything steeper than stairs.

I just watched BIG WALLS & BEDTIME STORIES | SMALL PEOPLE, BIG ADVENTURES on YouTube.

[]()

And after all the drama with the other dad, I was skeptical about this trip. However, I found the story of the climb both entertaining and wholesome. Key differences in the story structure despite the climb style being the same, where the kids just jug rope bottom to top and never free climb anything.

1. It's not about records or competition in any way.

2. The Mom and sister are also on the climb, and it looks like a healthy family dynamic despite the ups and downs involved in having two children on a wall for 7 days, including one where they ride out a snowstorm.

3. The core story is just a fun camping trip with a family that has a dad who is a pro climber who can facilitate a safe rope-climbing ascent of a big wall.

In short, if I were to climb a big wall with my kid before they were old enough to lead pitches on a big wall. I would try to be like Leo Houlding and keep it focused on safety, fun, and adventure.

A bracing essay by pro climber Molly Mitchell about the surprising aftermath of her greatest career triumph. After breaking her back on a 5.13+ R route and then returning to send it, a series of events leads Molly from the stage of an international film tour to a mental health treatment center, where she finds herself farther from the climbing world than ever.

I found the most powerful part to be Molly's examination of how the same addiction to danger that drives success in trad climbing can also keep one trapped in a toxic relationship and unhealthy habits---moving toward the danger, not away from it. Sharing for anyone who's redefining (or still defining) their own relationship to climbing.

It’s a lot harder to go climbing at 40 with a couple of kids now! Still trying to (occasionally) get after it and I had a chance to climb Crystal Crag near Mammoth Lakes in California. Such a beautiful setting and some surprisingly excellent rock on the 5.8 variation of the north arete. At least for ~200 feet before the total choss fest higher up the mountain!

Fall colors are starting to set in which is sad cuz the seasons ending soon but it is also so beautiful

I've hosted ClimbTalk the Radio Show on KVCU Radio 1190 for 13 years. Fridays at 8 pm MST, 1190 AM Boulder, 92.9 FM Denver, streaming worldwide at 1190.radio.

Just launched climbtalk.com with all 16 episodes from this year (full transcripts included) and brand-new community forums: 9 rooms covering general climbing talk, episode discussions, finding partners, gear, bouldering, speed climbing and scrambling, sport, trad, plus an 18+ After Dark room.

Last sunday was a typical fall session with wind and rain, but decent conditions in the area. The Bischofsbucht has some spectacular up to 50 meter high routes in a pretty epic spot.

The routes are "Take a walk on the wild side" (7+/6b+) and "Donauweg" (8-/6c+)

Hantavirus V8 in the Benwood Meadows/PCT boulders area. It’s quite steep!

It's been really tough for me to be a weekend warrior especially now that my wife and I have our awesome daughter. It's tough to find time to get on real rock when the gym is so convenient, but I'm really grateful that I was able to send my summer season project yesterday.

'Twas a great fight.

Nice alpine climb, did the 'Simsalabim' exit with a nasty crack shown in the pictures.

Battle of the 9c livestreams today. Will streamed his first redpoint attempt in silence earlier today

I bolted one of the last remaining blank sections of this historic wall by the end of last year and was surprised by how good the climbing turned out. It's a 18 meters second pitch with really powerful moves on decent holds.

Pics by my good friend Simon :)

Edit: Of course 8a or 9+/10- is 5.13b. Sorry for the typo in the title. ​

A few of my proudest moments from two recent Boone trips.

Abominable Low (v14) FA

Inner Mounting Flame (v-compy)

Project (v14?)

Atomic Melvin Low (v13) FLASH

Curious what the community thinks about Mountain Project shifting to a monetization strategy?