Hi guys, new here! what do you think of this?

I'm planning to get W218H with negative display and I found out that I like w218h-1b but I would like to change the strap. So my question is do I have to use strap designed for W218h like you do it with AE1200 or any specific width strap will fit?

In the process of converting all my f91 faceplate designs to fit the MW240. What you guys think?

Did my first digital watch mod! I've been big into Seiko modding but I went to Japan last month and bought this watch as one of many souvenirs. I knew it needed to be more - so I added an F91 filter and reassembled in oil and changed out that awful strap. Now here we are!

I really want to buy the 5000U but would love to find another bezel and strap color. Preferably gray or tan. Does anyone know if it’s possible to mod it? If so, what other models fit the 5000U case?

Took a metallic mosquito mesh and added BG-W9 super luminova..
The mesh adds some texture and it gives some gap so the luminova doesn’t stick to the lcd, avoiding to make it darker.

Let me know if you’d like to buy this! Details at the end of the post.

I saw [u/wriggles24](u/wriggles24) post about grinding down the ends of a 22mm engineer bracelet to fit the 18mm lug width of a Casio AE1200, and decided to try my hand at the mod!
(I didn’t have a picture of the bracelet packaging, so if you look close at the 2nd image, you might recognize that the end links have already been trimmed 😬)

I started by removing the end links so I just had the links in hand that needed to be ground down. (see image 3)

Then I measured out the 22mm, so I could tape off the 18mm I needed to grind down to. (see images 4, 5, and 6)

I picked up a grinding wheel from Amazon (see image 7) that was said to work on stainless steel, along with some sanding discs (see image 8) to make everything all smooth in the end.

The actual grinding was slow going (make sure to wear proper eye and respiratory protection. Last thing you need is some metal dust in your eyes or lungs). It seemed to go faster if I used the sides of the wheel, but as I got closer to the tape I switched to the flat top to make sure I wasn’t ending up with a curved surface. (see image 9)

Once I was down to the tape, I would attempt to test fit the links until I was able to slide them in between the lugs comfortably.

At this stage I switched to the sanding discs, starting with:
• 240 grit, moving up to . . .
• 600
• 800
• 1000
• 1200
• 2000, finally finishing off with . . .
• 3000 (see image 10)

Super pleased with the results! Excited to have been able to execute this mod myself. And the bracelet looks and fits great.

If I were to try it again . . . I’d probably stop grinding as I reached my tape marks, and start sanding from there. I wonder if my sanding took off more than I wanted (which I question) and created a tad more play than I would have desired. (see image 13)

Speaking of tape, I’d probably tape everything up a bit more, as inevitably the wheel jumped and skipped a time or two, and I nicked one of the corners on the front. (see image 14)

If I had one word of advice, “take it slow.” I probably tried to go a bit faster than necessary (took me roughly an hour) and wound up with a little burr in the metal (see image 15), but it’s actually not even close to the burr that was present before I started. (see image 16)

I’d probably pick up a caliper to make sure my initial measurements (my taped off 22mm down to 18mm) were accurate before I even began.
I could also use this to make sure I’m centered, taking 2mm off on each side, so it’s not lopsided. (which wasn’t really a concern, but if we’re being precise, why not double-check my work?)

All this being said, if someone wants to pick this one up at cost, I’d happily give it another go! To see if I could bring some of those tolerances down, and make it a tighter, yet still fluid fit.

I paid $24.83 with a coupon and having it shipped on my Prime Day, plus whatever a flat-rate box would cost to have it shipped within the US (using Pirate Ship).

22mm Engineer Bracelet - Amazon - $26.99 at posting

Not the craziest “mod” per se but I like the new look to it!

Before and after
Came out better than I thought 💪🏼

Finished the 'ghost in the shell: SAC' AE 1500 build I have been playing around with.

Came back from Japan with a few F-91Ws. On this watch I added an Emacs image background, changed the stock led for a brighter red one, and changed the strap for a thick nylon band.

A while ago I made a tutorial on using glossy photo paper. It works well but I've been experimenting with other options. In this tutorial I try metallic tape and transparency film. Overall it works but is more finicky than glossy photo paper.

Finally found a strap I like but I keep thinking of doing the hydro mod but keep putting it off as I'm afraid it might get messy.

I just purchased one of the Aliexpress stainless steel A158 cases and was planning on swapping my A159WEVJ-2 into it. I've never swapped a crystal before, so I was wondering what advice you guys could give? I've looked into this mod as well as I could but still find myself fairly worried.

Regarding preparation, I have a 3D printed F91W crystal press I plan on using, alongside B7000 glue for attaching the crystal. I currently plan on using is the boiling water method to remove the crystals.

As far as areas of concern, I'll list them below:
1) what temp range should I get the crystals to and for how long? Eg, would leaving them in boiling water for several minutes risk damaging them?
2) How careful should I be around the prints? I've heard they can be easy to scratch, and considering the whole reason I got the WEVJ-2 is the print, I'd like to avoid that. Would rubber gloves be advised?
3) When pushing on the crystals, how much force should I use? I've heard a lot of cases where people have broken the glass trying to remove it, so I assume I shouldn't push too hard? Will I feel some give once the glue is loose enough?
4) A bit separate from the others, but how good is the waterproofing with the aliexpress cases? I was considering hydromodding the watch after this, and would like to avoid cleaning oil up if it's destined to fail.

Sorry for the long post, but I really don't want to screw this up. Any advice/anecdotes would be appreciated!

I'm doing my first Casio Mod - it'll actually be a Christmas present for my brother.

I already bought the faceplate, so that part is fixed. What I'm deciding on now is AE1200 starting case color, color filter either gold/sunset gradient, and black or tan strap.

Which one looks best to you? I'm open to other ideas too. I want to keep it simple and just do faceplate, filter, and strap.