Is this a regular battery? Agm? Flooded? It's time to replace.

So I just received the main part of my Halloween costume in the mail and the jacket has integrated LEDs in the collar powered by this included pack. It holds three 18650 batteries which are labeled as being 3.7V each and appear to be connected in series. Other than a power button on the back there doesn't appear to be any sort of BMS. My question is, since I don't have any 18650 batteries and they're not a simple Amazon purchase, would I be able to replace this pack for one with a more standard battery form factor? Or if not, can anyone recommend me some 18650's I can get?

I accidentally dropped a flat auto flashlight in my residential apt dumpster

I tried to get it out for awhile, but I cannot get to the bottom of the dumpster and now it’s dark and I’m scared of getting bitten by raccoons. The trash pickup will come in the middle of the night while it’s still dark, and I’m worried that it could cause a fire when the trash company picks it up.

what should I do?

Genuine question, I am entirely tech illiterate with this kind of stuff. If it is, where should I put it in between taking it to the recycling center? I do not have transportation until Sunday.

I'd like to know what these batteries are and how to use them with which BMS. The measurements with the vernier caliper are 40 mm thick by 108 mm high. They come glued together in groups of four. I found them in a warehouse; several were glued together in a large box. One block of four cells delivers a voltage of 14.01 volts, and a strip of several of them delivers 85.4 volts. I'd like to know what they were used for and what the battery formula is, if they are LiFePO4, and how to use them without failing. Thank you in advance.

Hello everyone. If I want to bring my battery to storage voltage, should I start the process at 1A?

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to get a better understanding of the current state of sodium-ion batteries specifically for material handling and electric forklifts here in Canada.

I know that globally, companies like BYD have debuted sodium-ion forklifts, and Komatsu has been running tests with them. On paper, they seem like a massive win for Canadian operations especially because they handle freezing temperatures and cold storage way better than lithium or lead-acid without massive performance drops.

However, looking around domestically, it seems like 99% of forklift power suppliers in Canada are still strictly pushing Lead-Acid or Lithium (LFP) retrofits. Aside from some small-scale cell importers or off-grid stationary setups, I haven't seen any major Canadian material-handling dealers offering sodium yet.

Anyone have any experience with them or have had the opportunity to work with them. Looking for so insight

Thanks

And thought you would all enjoy seeing what was brought to us today for a likely rebuild. I haven’t looked at the other side yet.

This is a remote control battery. What’s strange is this one only has two leads. Every battery with the listed spec I’ve found has 3 conductors. I’m fine to terminate the leads myself but I’m not a battery expert so not sure if I can use a 3 conductor battery and just skip one of the leads.

I am looking into updating the battery for an old RC car. It takes 8 AA batteries and eats through them pretty quickly. Label inside says "for ni-cad only" so I am not sure what kind of battery would work. There is no other labelling on the bottom other than made in China. Any help is appreciated

This is actually a "brand new" one that noco warrantied because my last one went bad after 2 years of use. Trying to charge a gate battery that hasn't been getting enough light it was doing this... okkk check 2 other batteries 1 of which I topped off before warranty repair.. same thing. Okk maybe the extention chord (10/2 wire). So directly plugged into outlet. Same thing and im not getting a real good answer with google

some background: 3x 3.7v lithium ion packs in series connected to another setup in parallel for double capacity, 12v.

I already had solar panels and wanted to add storage without buying another panel bundle. The panels faced different directions, so keeping those groups on separate inputs was important to me. I ended up spending more time on the solar inputs than on the battery capacity.

At first I paid too much attention to whether the connectors matched. Once I started comparing the panel datasheets with the battery specifications, I checked the voltage and current limits for each input and the arrangement of each panel group. I also checked each group's open-circuit voltage at the lowest temperature expected at my site.

I chose the Jackery SolarVault 3 Pro after checking those requirements against my panels. Its four independent MPPT channels suited the way I wanted to split the panel groups. I ordered the battery on its own and kept the panels I already had.

I have a Noco genius 1 hooked up to my 2017 Subaru STi that I rarely drive. Sometimes, not even once a month. I replaced this battery in the last 6-12 months. When I first installed and hooked up the charger, it went through the normal process and eventually turned solid green. At some point, it’s back to a pulsating red and stays like that. I didn’t notice and when I went to start the car, it was completely dead. I was able to force jump start it and have had it hooked to the trickle charger for a couple days but it’s still pulsating red. If the car is on, the trickle charger will go green so I’m thinking the trickle charger itself is working as intended. When test the battery I get about 11.75 volts while the car is off.

Is my battery toast? I thought the trickle charger was supposed to be able to charge it back up and then maintain. Is this correct and I just have a bad battery? Thanks!

Ok, first off i feel like an idiot when it comes to this stuff. Im a machinist by trade but am pretty clueless when it comes to magic pixies from the wall.

I’m venturing out of my wheel house this year and decided to put some custom leds in my kids halloween costume, and im trying to save some cash by using a 12v battery from my fleet of power tool batteries.

the chip that I got needs a standard 3.7v input and I know that the 12v battery has 3x 3.7 in it. can I step down this battery easily while maintaning it as a normal battery?

Sorry if this is a stupid question or asked often, I did do a search.

I have an old Dyson battery pack that has stopped working. I assumed it was because one of the cells was out of tolerance (one of them was).

I discharged/charged all the cells to get them all the same but when I tried to use it I got flashing lights that makes me think the BMS has bricked the pack. I know Dyson batteries can be funny like this.

I can replace the BMS but I’m wondering if it’s worth it as I don’t know how good the cells are or how long the vacuum will run for with it. Im wondering whether I might be better just buying a new battery pack.

Is there any way to test how good the cells are in the pack and how long they might last on a full charge?

Hi.

I just bought some CNHL MiniStar 4S 550mAh 70C batteries for my FPV drone, but I can only use around 300mAh from each battery, even though they’re brand new.

What do you think about this? I’m getting around 35mΩ per cell on every battery. For comparison, my Tattu R-Line batteries are around 23mΩ per cell, despite having approximately 30–40 cycles on them.

I have 9 Murcipel 18650. 3 3 cells wired in parallel.

3s 12 volt 25 amp bms board. 12.6 , 2 amp cc/cv charger.

Wired and assembled. Charged batteries separately at first. Back and forth with tests but last run thru:

B- B+. 12.57

P- P+. 12.17

First charge with charger, each 3 cell got a little high with charge , Concerning ? . After an hour, they all settled under 4.20.

Bad BMS? I tried a quick charge to wake the board but no go.

Hi everyone,

I’m a power electronics engineer and founder of cirBATT (cirbatt.com), a battery reuse project based in Grenoble, France.

I’m interested in what makes a cell qualification report useful to someone assembling or integrating a battery.

Measured capacity and internal resistance are important, but the measurement conditions also need to be clear. A capacity figure without discharge current, temperature and voltage limits can be difficult to interpret.

The information I would include is:

• Cell identification, chemistry and format.
• Measured capacity and the conditions of the capacity test.
• Internal resistance, measurement method, temperature and state of charge.
• Inspection results and the criteria used to accept or exclude cells.
• Batch identification and the basis for grouping cells.

If you have purchased or evaluated used cells, what information was missing from the documentation?

I’d particularly welcome examples of data that changed your decision to accept or reject a batch.

How can I know if a battery and charger is for 3.6v or 3.7v lithium ion? From what I had remembered before someone told me I shouldn't mixed them up but I can't really tell them apart without markings and not sure how to tell them apart by a multimeter

PS I had taken the pictures from the same store I bought mine as I don't wanna dismantle mine just yet without prep

It's current battery last 13 minutes when on none stop spinning

A lot of the standard wall usb adapters I see are 5v. However, a few portable power banks I’m interested in all seem to be listed as higher voltage (15-20v). Would these not be safe to use? I don’t want to damage my device or cause long term battery issues.

I built this DW01A IC spice model(also is proteus library), can anybody use it and give me feedback whether it is correct or not? thank

I am trying to find actual Alkaline batteries that won’t leak or at least won’t leak before I get a chance to replace them. I have a feeling Duracells are the main culprits as non of my devices with Energizers with the battery meter back in the day have failed, but all my devices with Duracells have leaked and destroyed my Gameboy, my smart lock (they were basically new batteries).

Anyway, I want to see what brands people have experienced the most leaks.