Hello all, I am trying to run one MC58 in bridge mode from a CR16 and cannot get the bridged speakers to play. I would like help to confirm the correct wiring for this combination.

Equipment:
CR16 multizone controller
MC58, all four pairs set to Bridge, intended as four bridged channels
Zone 1: MC275, not using the MC58
Zones 2 and 3: two B&W AM-1s each, so each zone needs two bridged MC58 channels
Zone 4: no speakers

Sources: MP100 on AUX, MB50 on CD2
Trigger chain currently: CR16 to MP100 to MC58 to MC275, using 1/8-inch power control
7-pin DIN from the CR16 multi-channel DIN, the jack beside the DB25, to the MC58 MULTI-ROOM jack
DB25 is not connected

Audio is on the odd RCA inputs: 1, 3, 5, and 7
MC58 rear switch is Remote, front power switch is on.

What the MC58 actually does:
CR16 Zone 2 on lights only the 3/4 pair
CR16 Zone 3 on lights only the 5/6 pair
CR16 Zone 4 on lights the 7/8 pair, even though Zone 4 has no audio output connected
CR16 Zone 1 on does not light the 1/2 pair. Zone 1 audio goes to the MC275 only
With the DIN unplugged, the logo comes on at startup but no pair lamps light, including with the 1/8-inch trigger connected
Result: a bridged stereo zone needs two powered pairs, but each CR16 zone enables only one pair, and 1/2 never enables. The bridged speakers have no sound.

Any thoughts are appreciated as I can’t get this to work. Incidentally, all the equipment is in a front load only audio rack so it’s quite difficult to remove and readjust..

These PW-2522BM woofers have stiff surrounds, thus very little movement. I've been advised to apply some brake fluid. Is this wise?

Advice appreciated

I have an RCA RS2534 5-disc changer stereo that is not reading discs. I’ve cleaned the lens and lubricated the rails, but still nothing. This is a 25-year-old stereo, so I’m not sure what replacement I can get, if any.

I’ve just moved flat from the U.K. to Spain and in the move my Denon receiver looks like it took a bit of a whack, the front panel has a dent etc. I went to turn it on and it boots before going onto the blinking red light issue after a couple of seconds. I’ve downloaded the repair manual and gone through the debug process and when I disconnect the speaker board the amp stays on and it displays that the previous fault was an ASO protection which apparently means there is a short in the signal path, such as speaker wires touching but it happens even when no speakers are connected. Does anyone have experience with these in the past? The fuses are fine. The PSU is producing the correct voltages when the rest of the pcbs are disconnected so I don’t think it’s the PSU issue some other owners have had. I’ve tested the transistors and resistors on the amp board and I don’t think any are off, the parallel pairs are measuring between 0.2 and 0.3 for parrallel .47Rs and the transistors are doing 0.45-0.65V between the legs. Some of the resistors do have some discolouration though that they might have got a bit hot at some point. My feeling is it is a loose connection somewhere but I can’t see it and I’m not too keen on going further into the big hdmi/power amp pcb stack as I don’t think I’ll get it back together. Is it worth me replacing the resistors in case that is the issue? Any other tips before start removing components?

hello i don't know if this is the correct subreddit but i have a question can this adapter works with this radio is a sony hcd bx20i

Hey! I’ve got to replace 1 (!) knob on an old Yamaha mixer, but am struggling to find what the correct name for the type of knob required is. Doesn’t bother me if the replacement doesn’t look similar, it’s purely so the control can function. Any pointers appreciated, I think it’s a D shaft but I’m not having any luck with what to search for the type of design with the two tier style.

How do I access these speaker panels. I see a bunch of screws but we can only get to half of them because of the drop down component compartment on the right side. My mom wants to change the speakers and fix the fabric but we cant tell how they are attached.

My girlfriend has a single Pioneer DJ VM-50 that she runs off her DDJ-REV7. It suddenly stopped producing any sound at all.

The power LED still behaves normally:
It goes red when it drops into auto-standby
It switches back to white when the REV7 wakes up or a track plays.

So it seems to detect the signal and power on, but nothing comes out of either driver.
What we've ruled out:

No hiss at all, even with the volume knob maxed and an ear right against both the woofer and tweeter

The REV7 works fine through headphones

Tried different REV7 outputs, with Master and Booth levels up

Swapped cable ends and wiggled the connections at both ends. No crackle, no sound.
Checked the volume and the settings on the back of the speaker

A shop quoted $300 to fix it, which is close to the cost of a new one.

Honestly, we're pretty new to this and don't really know how to go about diagnosing it. We're both pretty handy with this kind of thing though, so we'd love to try fixing it ourselves if it's realistic. Is this something we could DIY? Any pointers on where to start would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I've had my AXC35 for a number of years, and I love it. Recently, however, the drawer has developed an issue. When a CD is inserted, the unit makes a grinding sound and refuses to recognize the disc. Opening the drawer and then closing it again usually gets the player to recognize the disc and they always play without an issue. Is there a way I can eliminate this problem?

I need a recommendation for repairing my Yamaha KX-580. The right channel has dropped out to about 10% of normal. The VU meters show a normal signal for both channels. The head phones are dead on the right, but that's a preexisting issue. It's my number 2 deck in my main system so it's not a rush job. Still I use it enough I really need it fixed. I live in SW Missouri and there is no one around here that I am aware of. I've been on net but I would still like some direction from.the community. And why does there need to be flair. It reminds me of Office Space.

There is a weird metallic artifact/undertone from the FM section of this Onkyo receiver. Sounds like some kind of bad digital compression. More apparent with music with distortion or reverb, or lots of audience noise. Hear it on all stations, don’t hear it on my car radio with same signal. Not using any of the DSP modes. Is this just how this receiver sounds?

Hi all. Managed to grab a Beosound 3200 and Beolab 2400 set out of a skip the other day. Didn't really know much about it when I picked it up but seems after doing some research I've got pretty bloody lucky.

Unfortunately it doesn't fully work. The Speakers power on and the beosound powers on but not together. Seems like an issue with the connection between them? Also the front panel seems to get a bit stuck when opening and closing. Is this just a case of cleaning it out?

Hope to get it working and tested soon :D

Got some 15 inch Bose speakers this past Christmas and recently I’ve noticed that they haven’t been playing as loud as they used to(they played super loud). Wondering if because I play my music loud, it’s damaged them more and more. Let me know. Thanks

Hi everyone!

I’m a Master’s student in Product Development, conducting research for my master’s thesis on circular design and the repairability of consumer electronics, with a focus on hi-fi equipment such as amplifiers.

I’m looking for people who use hi-fi audio equipment, regardless of their technical knowledge or previous repair experience.

Whether you repair your own equipment or have never attempted a repair, your perspective would be very valuable to my research.

Thank you for your time and contribution!! :)

Survey link: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScOF1ACzZeIdLZ-vHgwHnAAyzQgS55B48F05K_VNGoGdTRcqg/viewform?usp=header

How to fix these if i must

Hi everyone, recently i had to put my soul cat to sleep due to health issues. I've been wanting to get a build a bear with his Purrs as a sound inside, however the videos i have of his purring are crackly due to my phone. I'm wondering if there's any way anyone can fix this? Or knows of how I can fix it? Any help is immensely appreciated!
I uploaded the video to welink so i can link it here! Welink
(photo above for attention!!)

Never mind how old I am... this was my grandfather's book.

I was showing my son some of the old books I've got, and realized I had never posted any pictures.

Thought you'd enjoy!

Anyone know of a place in the L.A. area?

The right speaker sound more than the other, is in aux stereo mode, when i switch the cable behind the one that sound more than the other switch too, when i switch the mode to cinema, music etc, the volumen in each one is random and the quality is horrible, per example in the music mode the subwoofer is barely sounding, i tried everything, configuring the tv, laptop, spotify, switching cables, what can solve this? I only want to listen music in the best quality 😭

I have a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 10.6 floorstanding speakers, and the bottom woofer in one of the speakers has developed a pretty bad rattling sound during bass-heavy music.

I'd noticed it in the past, but only with really bass-heavy music, so I would just turn the bass down a bit using the EQ, and it sounded beautiful. However, after someone turned my amplifier ALL the way up at a party, it became a constant rattle, even at barely audible volumes.

I've taken the woofer out of the cabinet and noticed a few things:

• The cone looks completely intact from the outside.
• The surround and visible suspension don't appear damaged.
• The cone moves smoothly when gently pushed, without obvious scraping.
• Lightly tapping the cone produces a crackling/rattling sound that the identical healthy woofer doesn't make.
• My first suspicion was that the dust cap might be coming loose, but I've checked, and it appears to be completely secure.
• Most importantly, when I slowly tilt the entire driver from side to side, I can hear something physically moving inside it. It's silent when level, but once I tilt it far enough, something seems to roll or fall toward the lower side.
• The noise appears to come from near the center of the cone, possibly underneath the dust cap.

I've included a video demonstrating the noise.

Does this sound like loose debris or glue underneath the dust cap, or could something inside the voice-coil assembly have broken?

Would removing the dust cap to investigate be reasonable, or is there another way to diagnose it first?

I saw an old Reddit post about someone having debris under their dust cap. They said they cut the dust cap open, removed the debris, and glued it back afterward. I figured I'd ask for advice before attempting something like that myself.

I'd really like to repair the original woofer rather than replace it if possible. Any advice would be appreciated.

It’s a Sony STR-V45L. It takes about 20ish minutes after turning it on before I hear a click (which I believe is the speaker protection circuit?) after then the speakers start working. Works flawlessly after the click, will stay on without shutting off. I’ve checked for bulged capacitors and I can’t see any issues, no blown fuses.

Is this something I can possibly fix or is it worth just sending it to be repaired?

Thank you!!

I bought this CD player not to long ago from a salvation army knowing it could not work at all.

The thing turns on and spins the disk, but it refuses to read any of the data.

I've been looking for any info online that will help me, manuals and such, and while I've found some info, I've mainly ended empty handed.

Anyone know of any resources where I can look up info?

I'll post some pics and videos when I get home.

So far, this is the best resource I have found: (User manual) https://www.manualslib.com/manual/225550/Curtis-Cd149.html?page=4#manual

I've had this receiver hooked up and working for about 4 years.

Now, when I turn it on, it will come on normally for a few seconds, and then the Source display will change from the current source (e.g. "Phono") to the word "Protector" and the unit ceases to operate.

I've read that the most likely culprit is a short in the speaker wiring. I disconnected the speakers and the issue still persists.

Then I disconnected all inputs and outputs from the unit, and when I power it up the issue persists. So I know it does not appear to be the speakers or one of the inputs.

Does anyone have advice on further troubleshooting this issue?

Edit: Thanks for the thoughtful and helpful responses. I think this repair is beyond my ability. I'm just trying to decide if I should buy a new one or get this one repaired.

Hello!

I have a Kenwood KR-V87R that is having a weird audio issue. There is static on the speakers, but the ratio of static to music seems to change on different volume settings. For example on one setting there is a little static, then one click up is a lot of static, then one more click it goes back down. It doesn't have a knob to change volume, instead a rocker, so it can't be anything pot related... I'm just really confused.

Greetings! I have a Marantz 2215B receiver that my parents bought new back in the day. Recently, I’ve noticed that the right channel is louder than the left channel. The problem occurs with both the headphone and speaker outputs.

Today, I dismantled my Hi-Fi setup so that I could try cleaning the switches and pots with contact cleaner. Unfortunately, that did not resolve the problem.

I’m now looking into having this receiver repaired. I’m in eastern Massachusetts, and I’ve found a couple of repair shops “nearby” (both located about an hour away). These are Tech Hi-Fi in Hanson and AudioTech Services in Somerville. Does anyone have any experience with either of these repair shops or have any other suggestions?