First time using Sassafrass, so fun! It smells so nice and works beautifully. Finished with 6 coats of waterlux original.

I recently finished making a traditional(ish) Finnish dough pail. I was rather nervous to use it for the first time. I put some water in it and I guess I got it right as it held the water in perfectly. Not a drop leaked.

The true test will come with time, how it holds up with repeated extreme cycles of wet and dry, but at least it cleared the first hurddle magnificently.

Needed a new entertainment console for my living room. Made for a 65" TV to sit on top with a turntable/record player cabinet to the left.

Mostly walnut and finished in danish oil for now, going to coating the exterior in poly soon.

Still need to finish a couple of smaller things and move it into the room! More to come.

90" long, 21" deep, around 30" tall

We’re a small restoration workshop in Odesa. Right now we’re working on the carved ornaments from the doors of the Rauchverger house on Italiiska Street.

Our rule: keep the original. Repair what’s damaged, recreate only what’s lost.

The bracket. 
A section of it broke off and was lost. We glued oversized blocks of new wood into the gap and clamped them up. Once the glue cures, they’ll be carved down to follow the lines of the original scroll.

The rosettes. 
Cracks and chipped petals, filled.

The frieze and acanthus pieces. 
Next in line.

All of this happens in Odesa during the war, between air raid alerts and power cuts. To everyone who follows us here: thank you. Your comments and support keep a small workshop going.

Happy to answer questions about the process.

Every wedge I installed today cracked/split. Is this a cause for concern?

is it worth it?
what alternatives exist that are better/cheaper?

Such a stressful glueup for this desk-leg.. So many moving parts at the same time including 3 different miterjoints, and only 15 minutes open setting time for the glue.. i was exhausted..

Quite satisfied with how it turned out though.

My interpretation of a Hans Wegner CH25 and some random pics of the journey.

Started making some salt cellars for holiday gifts, but also wondered if these are sellable at a local high-end wood craft store. If so, how do you go about pricing them? I've never sold something I've made before. I have a few more styles, but these are the first I've made.

I have this fresh Osage orange log and I'm trying to figure out the best way to process it for carving and use in tool handles. Do I seal the ends with wax and let it dry for a year or two or do I take it to a Milling plant and have them cut it and then let it dry? I'm just not sure how to go about it.

Spread over the course of a month, 212 hours were spent in creating this beautiful aircraft. The Hawaii (II As the first was destroyed) Mars was and still is the most awe worthy piece of engineering. I wanted to convey this in my own ways as well as giving my original Martin mars being the Philippine Mars a sister.

The Martin JRM Mars was a massive, four-engined cargo transport and firefighting flying boat built by the Glenn L. Martin Company during World War II. Only seven units were ever completed, making it one of the largest and rarest Allied flying boats ever operated.

In 1959, the surviving aircraft were slated for demolition, but a consortium of British Columbia timber companies called Forest Industries Flying Tankers (FIFT) bought them.

Forest industries was later bought by Coulson aviation and the Hawaii was refitted with cutting edge avionics flying until 2016 and once more in 2024.

This plane is personally my greatest ever creation and hits home as well having seen it once in action on the field.

So enough of that here’s some stats if anyone is crazy enough to make a 3.5 foot wide plane.

Wood used for the main aircraft: pine so shaping would be easy.

Wing: oak

Tail was cedar and MDF

Floats are oak

Stand is black walnut.

The cost was about 250$ total (not bad!)

And the time spent was summed up by around 100 hours of shaping and sanding and 60 putting it together. The rest was on finishing which took several all nighters.

I hope looking at her brings the same weird feeling of looking at a hunk of wood in the shape of one of the most gorgeous flying boats ever built.

Cheers guys.

It’s time to wrap up before my retirement from making planes.

Your favourite plane maker,
-nasty

Hello all!

I just finished up this shaker hanging cabinet, made from riftsawn cherry harvested from trees in my yard.

I also used quartersawn eastern white pine for the drawer box, from Alexander Brothers in PA.

This is my first complex, heirloom-quality build. First time doing dovetails, as well.

I really took my time. This took me about three weeks. I borrowed heavily from designs by Christian Becksvoort, and borrowed Rob Cosman’s drawer bottom slip idea.

I’ll make a quick peg rail to go with it. Both will be a wedding gift for my mother.

Excited for this!

I saw this guy at habitat for humanity (but only had like a minute to grab a photo before having to leave…I’ll prob go back). Is this some sort of jig for flattening? It’s got a hand turned wheel knob that isn’t visible for raising and lowering the router on a sort of dovetail slide. But I honestly have no clue because it’s static in the one location along the parallel boards. It’s $40. If someone can help me out and tell me if I should go get it I would appreciate it. TIA!!!!

I've been in the market for awhile for a jointer, and looking at used models, mostly on Marketplace. I see quite a few popup and most of them look pretty worn. Take the picture for example, this just popped up in my city, with no price listed. I'm interested but skeptical. I don't mind to put some work into something like this to get it in shape, but man that rust looks pretty bad. And if this unit was left to rust it just feels like the owner didn't take care of it... what else could be wrong?

So my questions are, what should I be looking out for, what questions to ask on something like this? How much work and what process is involved in refinishing that bed? Can it be done by hand or is this a job for a machine shop? What's a fair price? Should I just run and not look back?

Hello

I am building a hotrod.

The dashboard is mahogany. It will have brass plates and various other bits on it when finished (one example pic attached - the circular hole was dpne with a hole saw but then had to be clearanced by hand with what I had to hand very clumsily by me, I know I know I am sorry but I was in a big rush with my foundry running, long story! But that will have the speedometer in there, the bezel of which overlaps the brass that is already there so you wont see the hole).

I was wondering before I have at it how best to get this to a beautiful lustre and protect it in a car? Isnthere anything special I need to do with mahogany?

I am not a woodworker (clearly!!!), welding and forging and cars and engines is my bag.

The dash is 15mm thick and is currently just planed flat and smooth.

So, how best to tackle this to get the best from it and keep it nice forever? Any advice from the experts on the room?

Trying to put together these “faces” to go on top of my frame for an outdoor kitchen. I though 3/4” stainless steel brad nails would hold the horizontal pieces to the vertical ones and I would screw the verticals into the frame. But the horizontal pieces are falling off.

Does it really need glue/screws? It’s only 1” thick where they overlap so teeny tiny screws?

I picked up this cheap center finder on Ali after admittedly not looking at the photos too closely. I assumed at a glance this would be a vernier scale but it's actually 20 units in 2cm. Is this just a fake scale for precision-aesthetic, or is it an actual scale with a use I just can't think of?

I started this last September based on videos from Graham Blackburn and Wood By Wright. It never worked too well, binding badly as it approached full depth, and after using it a couple times I just went to the tablesaw for grooves. Yesterday I was finishing a couple of small coffers from American Peasant and needed to groove the breadboard ends for the lids and decided to finally give this the attention to make it work.

I used a chisel to ease the inside edges, applied a good amount of paste wax to the plane surfaces and to a piece of grooved cherry, and spent a few minutes aggressively riding it back and forth. What a difference! The burnishing action along with the wax worked the wood into compliance and left a glassy surface to slide on. After that I gave it some final shaping and finishing work, then an all over coat of paste wax.

It's made from a piece of steamed euro beech that I keep on hand for plane making, with initial cutting and shaping done on my tablesaw. Cutting the recess for the iron and wedge were done with hand tools, as was the final shaping and smoothing. The iron is a 12 dollar DeWalt 1/4 inch chisel with the handle cut off, an affordable and expedient way to get a good plane iron for grooving or rabbet planes!

This thing really cuts like a dream now! I can pull this out of my tool chest and cut a perfect quarter by quarter by quarter groove in seconds. Far faster than I can set up the tablesaw. This is one instance where the hand tools absolutely outperform the electron-driven madness of power tools. If you don't have one, don't be afraid to try making one, it's a great tool to have and a fun project!

I hope this post inspires you to go make something, or at least to go out and caress your tools in appreciation of their beauty and quiet utility.

I made this dresser. Solid walnut with a homemade finish

Hi folks,

I am currently working on a larch street facing gate for my house in Scotland, and I can't make up my mind about the finish. Looking for some guidance now.

The plan is to rent out the house after the winter. I am looking for the finish that requires the least maintenance, but handles moisture/dampness well. There is almost no sunlight on the gate year-round.

Should it be oiled it with osmo for larch or instead painted with primer + paint coat? Which solution will need the least maintenance?

​

Hey r/woodworking I've been woodworking for years and wanted to start posting the projects I've done. This is a PC built into a desk that I finished about 2 years ago and is one of my favorite projects I've done.

Design process:

I drew out the layout several times. I actually ended up using graph paper and to make the pc components to scale and arrange them in a scale drawing of the desk. After finding the layout I wanted I designed the desk in Sketchup. I used that design to get the measurement for each piece.

The build:

I have always loved using maple and walnut so that's what I used for this project. I had not done much hand tool woodworking before this project and wanted to try to do hand cut dovetails. I did many practice pieces before doing it on the desk. I have a CNC and did use that for the front panel of the desk for the intake fans and to make removable grills for the fan intakes. The fan grills are held on by magnets. For the top I wanted to be able to see down into the desk so I did a clear resin pour to create the windows. This was the first time I worked with pouring resin and did end up having a leak in one of the smaller windows at the top but was able to do a second pour to fix it. After an insane amount of scraping and sanding it looked pretty good. I used a clear resin to finish the top and on the desk body I did a French polish.

It has some flaws but I'm extremely happy with it!

I've just taken apart a paper guillotine and had the thought that the blade might be useful for woodworking. The blade is 3.1mm thick, so it needs the brace if it's going to be used at its full width.

My first thought was a draw knife. I'm sure I could fit some handles without too much effort. The problem is the curve, I've never seen a curved blade used in a draw knife.

Any thoughts welcome.