I reached the point where there was more exhaust tape holding it together than actual steel. So I guess it's time 😆

Finally got my 240 up on the lift and discovered a couple fun things, 1 the rear muffler is held on by what seems to be chicken wire tape and hose clamps, and 2 the shocks mostly the front passenger side are very much dead/on their way out.

I just installed these Kicker 46CSC54 speakers in my 1993 245 using the BNE mounts, and I’ve been having issues with the sound. The highs and mids sound fine, but there’s almost no bass even with it cranked all the way up on my stereo (JVC KD-SX38MBT). I’m pretty sure I wired them correctly (yellow-grey as positive and grey as negative) so what else could be causing this?

After spending my last five autumns living abroad, I can finally enjoy a proper Northeast autum in the USA, and comes with it some obligatory photos. (filters added).

Do you guys know what is the top part and the bottom part? I think it's how I hold it in the picture but if I install it this way I can't turn the H<->S knob... would it be wrong to install it upside down (the brass part at the bottom)?

I have a Thule Canyon rack with an extension on my wagon. I see lots of people with Subies and trucks adding LED light bars, off road lights, position lights, etc. Anyone add a LED lightbar to a 240 roof rack and have pics?

In the process to make this engine run smooth, today was valve clearance time.

The block does turn way better but I noticed a pretty oil leak at the back of it, coming from the plastic cam shaft cap.

It seems the PCV is not helping, I replaced the flame trap a while ago but not the box it's connected to, so the pressure in the engine is pushing oil through the gaskets and seals.

So next step will be to buy the parts, the cam cover and intake manifold gaskets, and take everything apart again, hoping it will sort my ''oil sweating'' issue 🤷‍♂️

I have a 1991 Volvo 244, had a gas leak before got it repaired. Went to put gas in it and started to leak at the right rear again… can’t tell if it overfilled or if it was an actual leak again. Any tips on how to track that down? Haven’t worked on cars in a minute and I have forgotten how to diagnose a problem.

Second issue, check engine light is on. Codes I have are 232 and 113. Any tips on repairing those?

I’ve collected a very rusty 83/4? Inter-cooled 2.3 245 with a 4speed overdrive with a known history. (I actually wanted the rims but ended up with the car) And I’ve got an extremely solid, clean 75/6 244 automatic in the barn with a title.

Engine and transmission in the 76 are of unknown condition 2.1/ 3 speed automatic. (Seller claimed that the engine was very healthy)

You can easily guess what the plan was, but in all honesty I’ll never get to it. Besides I’ve got an 86 wagon already.

Northern Maryland if anyone is interested, price is right.

Hi I need help figuring out what this vacuum line is. It’s right below the intake manifold. The other end isn’t attached to anything. B21ft

Is this something that can normally happen?

So far both rear hubcaps of my Volvo 240 Estate have come off at some point whilst being driven. We're not sure when either as there was nothing along the lines of any unusual sounds

Looking at getting this replacement fender on my 240. Just wondering what people use to coat this up in a protective layer to stop rust.

Can see some rust through the old coating - would it be fine to just coat it in a thick paste of something to prevent it worsening or if I sand it down to bare metal what's the procedure for preventing further rust? Just put a primer over it and then the thick waxy coating?

Last night got a fix it ticket for my tail light being out i have 30 days to figure it out. Though i’ve been trying to figure out this taillight for over a year now. I’ve spent over 1000 to replace the light and harness two years back worked for a while then water got inside and messed it up but the wiring wasn’t done good either. My taillight also has a crazy issue of it likes to burn i’ve replaced that green thing that holds it all (forgot what it’s called). I’m just at a standpoint i really don’t know how to fix this i’ve taken it to two people and still not sure.

Anyone got recommendations on how to fix a taillight that doesn’t want to fix???! i can provide pictures if needed as well to get a better idea!

Can anyone tell why my Engine is acting weird

Starting after I got off the Autobahn

Pushed it a few times up to Maximum Speed while I was on it

When I got off the Autobahn and came to a Stand still it felt like it was running on 3 Zylinders

Now it's running on all 4 but does that

Only fault is 3-1-1 but I know where that's coming from

Also feels like it has no Power

Thanks for the Help

Checked Cables for Spark and Sparkplugs are also lookin fine

If you've seen any of my past posts here on this subreddit, you know why this is here. I pulled this car out of her grave in 2024 after sitting in a garage since 2000-2001, over the course of about a year, I replaced just about every fuel system component on this car. After an oil change and a new battery, I got her to start right up. However, to my dismay, the engine sounded a little rough and was shaking itself quite aggressively in the engine bay. Not a huge deal right? She had started right up without much of a fuss. The engine hadn't run almost 3 decades, and maybe the engine mounts were just worn. Unfortunately, giving her a little throttle revealed a dead cylinder. Odd, but not completely surprising. The service records suggested a miss in '96, and a dead cylinder in '97, but she passed emissions in '98 and '99, and received a new water pump in '00. It couldn't have been caused by a fuel system issue, as everything besides the fuel rail and soft lines to and from the engine where replaced. So I checked the ignition system, she got new NGK copper plugs (gapped to 0.030"), and all the spark plug wires tested, 2500-3000 ohms, all within spec, cap and rotor looked almost brand new. ECU coolant sensor read within resistance spec at ECU terminal, and the engine sputtered if the MAF was disconnected. So I rented a compression tester, lo and behold, 50 psi in cylinder 3. Taking off the oil fill cap revealed some pretty bad blow-by and atomized oil, confirming a ring issue. 48 hours and 8 fl oz of MMO later, and nothing changed.

The possibility of this car driving on 3 cylinders for 2-3 years is pretty high. Looking into the cylinder reveals a non zero amount of wear. I do not have a picture of the resting side of the cylinder where the wear is likely to be worse, as the picture was taken through the spark plug hole, and I do not have a good endoscope.

She's had 2 owners before me, all within my family. Owned in Missouri from '85-'95, then moved up the Illinois in '95 until she was parked in '00. Odometer reads 129,110 miles.

So here it is: My NA Auto 1985 Volvo 244 DL

The Good:

• 2 sets of original factory keys
• extra working LH2.2 ECU
• service and emission records from previous owners ('95-'00)
• new fuel tank
• new fuel sender
• new pre-pump
• new filter sock
• new rubber feed and return lines (tank side only, engine side still retains original nylon/rubber hosing)
• new in-line Bosch fuel pump
• new in-line fuel filter
• new-old in-line fuel system cradle (from cali car)
• new Bosch 62354 injectors (replacing clogged 280150209s)
• new fuel pressure regulator
• new spark plugs
• new battery (original harness leads have been moved around to account for lack of reverse pole terminals)
• all lights work
• blower motor works and sound healthy
• near new looking textile blue interior
• working central locks
• no dry rotting rubber as far as I have checked (still a good idea to replace critical rubber components though including brake flex lines)
• clean intact blue door pockets
• blue factor waffle weather mats (never removed from what I can tell)
• untouched floor carpets
• working CR-3138 radio (tuner needs new string, and cassette player is unknown as I have not tried to put a cassette in)

The Bad:

• broken right side mirror
• broken A/C (record states needing an o-ring at "muffler", most likely need more than that now)
• needs new coolant
• likely to appreciate new brake fluid
• needs new tires (tires sat flat since parked, but has held air without top offs for 2 Chicago winters)
• needs new engine mounts
• needs new belts (old)
• needs new engine seals (old, not leaking)
• unknown suspension bushings condition
• surface rust here and there
• Chrysler ignition control unit
• original bio-degradable harness has never been replaced (all tested wires have good continuity and resistance under 0.2 ohms)
• stains on rear parcel shelf
• right side rear seat belt needs some coaxing to retract, could be getting caught on should guide though
• broken trip odometer button

The Ugly:

• driver floor pan needs to be cut out and replaced
• left butt cheek rusted all the way through
• worn rings on cylinder 3
• worn cylinder walls on cylinder 3
• engine needs to come apart to run on 4 cylinders again

I will post a link to a zip file containing all 79 labeled pictures in the comments.

She's my first car, and first 240. It's a shame I'll never get to drive her, and I'll probably never find another with an interior this nice, but she deserves another life on the road. If a generous soul is willing to do the work for cheap, money is ready.

This does mean I happen to be in the market for another 240, 740, or 940. My budget is only about $3000 max unfortunately.

Otherwise, I'm asking $1000 obo, I know she has parts worth more than that, but I will not be parting her out. Feel free to talk me down. I am located within the broader Chicago area.

Got bored and snapped a couple of pics.

I’ve tried putting in a new fuel pump relay that a friend got me I’m guessing he checked it but I have not tested it myself, also put 3 gallons or so of gas in it to see if I just ran out since my fuel gauge doesn’t work, tried starting a couple times after each, will check the timing belt tomorrow morning as I’ve not checked its condition since I bought the car a few months ago. Any ideas on how I’d be able to know if it’s a crank position sensor or other issue would be good as well as if I just need to try starting it a few more times to get the fuel system to prime.

This one was in immaculate condition, which is quite amazing is this car is at least 33 years old or more.

Any good brands for a 140 amp alternator, I want to use the current 800 watt amplifier I have to it's fullest extent but I just don't know of any good brands

Hi everyone, last month i purchased a 1983 Volvo 240 gle (b19e engine k-jet) with 300k km on it and just recently finished refreshing it a bit as it was pretty neglected in terms of maintenance. I wanted to ask for some opinions about how the engine sounds to you as i have no previous experience with Redblocks and when cold it sounds kinda "clunky" to me in a concerning way. I'll add another video in the comments with the sound of it at operating temperature.

This is a list of what i did:

Oil and filters (10w-40 Liquimoly mos2)

New fuel filter

New spark plugs

New oil separator + cleaned flame trap and all related hoses (had a lot of crankcase pressure before)

Cleaned injectors and auxiliary air valve

Cleaned intake manifold + new gasket

Flushed cooling system

Removed hot air intake valve from the airbox as it was stuck open (i live in Italy so not really necessary imo)

New engine mounts

Replaced some connectors and engine wiring + did some other stuff unrelated to the engine (like suspension and diff fluid).

The car now runs INFINITELY better (before it would immediately die at every stop and same if left idling without throttle when starting), the only "minor" issue i've encountered so far is that occasionally after starting it the idle stays stuck at anything between 1.5k and 2k rpm then slowly go down after some minutes. Similar thing happens sometimes after a "spirited" (for what the car can handle lol) driving session, the car stays stuck at 2k rpm without going down until i turn it off.

Normally it idles well at 800rpm.

Thanks in advance to everyone and sorry for the bad grammar.

I see this orange triangle sign on a lot of Swedish Volvos, what does it mean and why does everyone do it?

Long story short, I started to take my 240 apart to assess the ammount of rust, before I take her to a body shop.
I found out that both sills under the front doors are completely rusted through from the inside, and inside the sills there is a lot of accumulated debris and tree leaves.
Turns out that all the stuff entering the intake grille in front of the windshield, ends up in the sills. Even water, that’s why it’s so rotten.
Where does the rainwater and molten snow supposed to leave the ventilation system after entering at the intake grille?
Some time ago the car had an amateur rustproofing job done on the underside, could it be that the draining hole was ‘walled off’ unintentionally?
Because it doesn’t seem normal for water to flow into the door sills, and make them rot from the inside out.

Thanks!🙏

ello I have a 1990 Volvo 780 Bertone that has been having rough idle. I figured it is the coolant temp sensor causing the idle issue but I can’t seem to unbolt it with my ratchet to replace it. I have tried putting lubricant and applying a little heat, no luck. Im not too experienced with cars and worried about breaking off the bolt, any tips?