For starters, I’m looking for something I can drive until the wheels fall off. Been looking mainly at Hondas & Toyotas, doing extensive research on particularly the CRV’s (2.4L, not turbo) and RAV4’s.

I can find pretty solid prices on both of those cars with like 60k miles but some of them have rebuilt titles. I understand it will be hard to resell it, and know you really won’t get much for a trade in, but I’m looking to keep it as long as possible.

Now it’s from my understanding that a rebuilt title is a vehicle that’s been in an accident and the insurance company came to a conclusion it would cost more to repair for them rather than deeming it a total loss. But with like 2017-2019 years of those cars, the damage would have to be in thousands right? So what could possibly go wrong with those vehicles where they’re deemed a loss and they’re only a few years old?

I’m trying to do more research and get more opinions on it

Have been looking for a pickup truck for some time now and having a really hard time finding anything decent, looking mainly for a ford f150, my budget is about 20K$, around 2017 and preferably no over 100k miles.
Is that reasonable? Realistic? Am i asking for a unicorn here? I honestly don’t know and would appreciate any tips on where to look and what to look for
Thanks

Looking for a sub $6,000 car my daughter to learn on and drive under 10 miles a day on to and from school and practices. No highway driving so the risk of a breakdown far from home is not a concern then again brand new cars are not immune from that risk either.

Anything under 200k miles seems to be an R title in that price range.

I’ve read a lot of folks saying they’ve owned multiple r titles and had great luck and obviously the horror stories.

But for a vehicle that will not be heavily relied on that’s safe and cheap to maintain would an r title make sense?

I ask for the vin, try to pull the damage pics, ask for repairs completed (most don’t have that), and compare to KBB private party fair condition. Deer attacks and theft recoveries with little to no damage seem to be the better route.

Basically looking at it this way, buy R title for $5k. Let her ding it up for the next 2 years and if it’s still running reliably into college great. If she goes away and needs something newer/more reliable trade it in for $1-$2k and move on. Better than a $350 monthly payment that still has reliability risks. Right?

A few months ago, I found myself in a situation that many people can relate to. After being involved in a car accident, I suddenly didn't have a vehicle. What I thought would be a straightforward process of replacing my car turned into a months-long journey filled with frustration, uncertainty, and more research than I ever expected. Looking back, what I learned wasn't really about buying a car. It was about how to make a major purchase without letting stress force a bad decision.
 
Like most people, I started browsing online listings, checking sites like AutoTrader, and looking at anything that caught my eye. At first, I wasn't following a process. I was simply trying to find a vehicle that fit my budget and seemed reliable. Eventually I found a 2018 Honda Accord Sport that looked promising. The mileage was higher than I would have preferred, so I did what any cautious buyer should do: I arranged to meet the owner and scheduled an independent inspection. I was ready to spend money to verify the vehicle before making a commitment. Then the unexpected happened. Before the inspection could even take place, the seller decided not to sell the car.
 
I was disappointed, but that experience taught me my first lesson: never get emotionally attached to a vehicle before you've actually bought it.
Back to square one, I continued searching. Not long after, I found another Honda Accord Sport, this time located in Florida. I researched the dealership, reviewed their reputation, and arranged for a local inspection company to evaluate the vehicle. Once again, I felt like I was getting close. Then history repeated itself. Before the inspection was completed, the vehicle sold to someone else.
 
At that point, many buyers might have become frustrated and settled for something less than what they really wanted. I was tempted. Being without a car for several months is stressful. Every day without reliable transportation feels like pressure to make a quick decision. Instead, I reminded myself that the goal wasn't to buy a car quickly. The goal was to buy the right car.
 
Eventually I found another Accord, this one at a dealership in Montana. By now, I had developed a much more disciplined approach. Instead of simply looking at photos and reading the description, I treated the purchase like a research project. I verified the dealership's reputation, reviewed vehicle history reports, researched the VIN, requested additional photos, conducted video walk-throughs, discussed the vehicle with the seller, arranged for independent verification, and negotiated the purchase price based on facts rather than emotion.
 
Throughout the process, I relied heavily on AI tools like Copilot. Not because AI could tell me whether to buy the car, but because it helped me ask better questions. I used it to compare vehicle trims, understand potential maintenance concerns, research registration requirements, evaluate dealership information, and organize the overwhelming amount of information I was collecting. It became a research assistant that helped me make sense of everything.
 
In the end, I purchased the Montana vehicle and had it shipped to my home. The process worked, not because I found some secret trick, but because I took the time to reduce risk at every step. Looking back, the two vehicles I lost may have actually saved me from making a rushed decision. Each failed deal reinforced the importance of patience and verification.
 
The biggest lesson I learned is that most expensive purchases aren't really buying decisions. They're confidence decisions. Whether you're spending $20,000 on a car, hiring a contractor, or making any major purchase, uncertainty creates stress. The more information you gather, the more confident your decision becomes. Research doesn't guarantee a perfect outcome, but it dramatically improves your odds of making a good one.
 
Today, when people ask me about buying a used vehicle, I rarely talk about engine specifications, trim levels, or features. Instead, I talk about process. Define what you need. Research broadly. Verify everything. Get independent opinions. Be patient. And most importantly, don't let urgency make the decision for you.
 
The Honda Accord I eventually bought wasn't the first car I looked at, the second car I pursued, or even the third. But it was the one that survived the process. And in hindsight, that's exactly why it was the right choice.
 
Has anyone else bought a car from out of state? What part of the process was most stressful for you?

listed for $4800 and of course would get a PPI. wondering if it’s worth it? looking for a reliable daily driver with occasional road trips to tote baby around. how many years will this last? 2011 honda crv lx sport utility 4D

Has a reported “minor accident” to the right side and right rear side… i don’t know what to look for when looking at it and i am not experienced enough to know if this is a fair or a bigger red flag than i think..
Thoughts?

Every time I helped someone shop used, the same thing happened: the listing says $14k, then tax, DMV and doc fees push it past what they can spend, and they find out at the desk.

So I built something simple: you type the total you can spend and your ZIP, and it only shows dealer cars near you that fit that number with tax and fees counted in. Free, no account, no phone number to browse. Right now it only covers LA, Orange, Ventura, Riverside and San Bernardino because the tax and fee math is set up for there. Everywhere else gets a waitlist.

It's an estimate, not a quote, and the listing data is a day or two old, so call before you go. I'm looking for honest feedback, especially if the price looks wrong on a car you know.

keymatchauto.com/?src=rd-usedcars

Am I getting scammed or good deal?

Also a local shop offers 50 pt Pre purchase inspection.

Dealership did a 131 pt inspection and said it was fine. I know dealership is not reliable.

Is 50 pt inspection worth the time and hassle?

I leased a car in 2024. A few weeks after I took ownership, someone backed into my driver's door while I was parked. The whole door was replaced. The repair cost close to $4,000 and was handled by insurance. The car was never quite right after that. There was a minor wind noise and the paint was duller on the new door I had the autoshop buff the door again, which helped, but it still was never 100%.

Fast forward to today. I returned the lease and found the car for sale at an independent dealer. They had a Carfax report available. I was curious how the crash showed up on the report. But it isn't there! The car shows as having no accident history. The damage and repair were never reported to Carfax.

Moral of the story: just because a car has no accident history doesn't mean it wasn't involved in a crash. Always look closely at used cars for signs of repair: paint overspray, uneven paint depth, improperly aligned panels, uneven panel spacing, askew badges, non-OEM replacement parts, etc.

Got hit at a dead stop while at a stop light.

I'm looking to spend around 30-37kish. I plan on getting 8-11k back from the car.

I test drove a 2025 Mazada cx-50 hybrid and it was nicer than my Kia.

I also test drove a 2025 subaru Forester Hybrid Touring and hands down the Subaru was a better drive.

I'm not interested in another Kia or Hyundai. Not interested in VW either. Could there be something else I should be looking at?

The sweet spot so far seems to be a Forester with Touring package.

• heated and cooled front seats
• heated rear seats
• auto sensing windshield wiper
• upgraded leather and waaay more "comfy"
• integration into the infotainment will let you pull google maps or apple maps to the instrument cluster and you can dual screen spotify on the main infotainment. BIG PLUS for me.
• I also liked usb a and C in front and back however once I get a new iphone that might not be a perk anymore :p.

My 2008 Civic just got totaled (luckily I wasn’t in it.) I was in that car for 5k, had it for 4 years and put 100k miles on it. Now my neighbor and friend of the family is selling her 2009 Camry XLE with 25,000 miles on it for $10,000 dollars.

I got her down to $8,000. She’s kept it in her garage all that time when not driving it so it’s in pretty great shape. I’d just be worried about the oil consumption, also just paying that much for a car that old. Is there a way to check for the oil problem? Also would this be a good buy at 8?

I’m in northern Europe and looking for a simple, reliable automatic car that I could hopefully keep for several years without major headaches.

I found this 2004 Toyota Corolla Wagon 1.6 VVT-i automatic at a dealer for $7000.

Some details:

1.6L petrol/gasoline, 110 hp

Traditional 4-speed torque converter automatic, not MultiMode

151,336 km / about 94,000 miles
First registered in January 2004

Wagon

Recently serviced

Passed inspection on October 7, 2026

Same private owner from 2009 until October 2026, so about 17 years

The previous owner apparently serviced it himself for much of that period, so the service history is not fully documented

I also bought the inspection/history report.
The mileage history looks consistent and there are very few failed inspections.

It failed inspection in 2014 and again in October 2025, but passed shortly afterwards both times. It passed the most recent inspection with no listed faults.

One slightly unusual thing is that the car was taken off the road for fairly long periods during the last few years and has barely been driven recently. It went from about 140,000 km in 2019 to 151,000 km now.

The main things I’m trying to verify before buying are:

\\- Rust condition underneath, especially the sills/subframes

\\- Whether the engine consumes oil

\\- Whether the automatic transmission fluid has ever been changed

\\- Why it was used so little / taken off the road frequently in recent years

\\- What caused the failed inspection in 2025

From what I’ve read, the E12 Corolla 1.6 with the conventional 4-speed automatic is generally considered very reliable, although early 1.6 VVT-i engines can sometimes develop oil consumption.

Assuming the underside is solid, it doesn’t burn much oil and the transmission shifts properly, would you consider $7000 reasonable for this car?

Would you trust one of these at 151,000 km / 94,000 miles for another 4–5 years?

Anything specific I should check on a 2004 Corolla E12 1.6 VVT-i automatic before buying?

This would be the newest used car I've ever bought. Wondering if anyone has anything to say about this ride. Not looking to pay 500/month for 6 years but my other car is rusted beyond repair.

2022 DODGE DURANGO SRT 392
Miles: 58,213
CARFAX: 1 minor accident and 4 owners
Price: $48,999

2022 Dodge Durango** **R/T Sport Utility 4D
Miles: 53,288
CARFAX: No accidents and 1 owner
Price: $32,990

Hello all,

Going on Sunday to checkout a 2014 ES350 luxury with 49K miles, one owner, 2 keys, clean title with service records. Clean car with one minor accident which was fixed by insurance. Car is super clean inside out we locked the deal at 16K + taxes.

Buying privately so need to know things to check in the car? I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine he said with that low mileage just drive on highway with high and at low speed too, there wouldn't be much else to check at that mileage. Anyone here with ES 350 that can point out things to test in the car?

Help! Female car shopper. Is the price of the car good or can it be negotiated more ?

Bought a 2017 Sentra 6-speed from a Nissan dealer.

I bought it 9/10, but the dealer had it until 10/7 for an airbag sensor repair that they had to order from Japan and that part was back ordered which took longer for it to get here.

Also, the steering wheel harness was also replaced in that time so I’ve only actually had the car for 6 days. Today makes it a week. Last night it completely shut off while I was parking and now it won’t start or turn over. Completely dead.

They already replaced the battery because when I picked it up last week, I went to drive it off the lot and it completely turned off. 4 jumps later and they got it going. And as a precaution, they said they put in a brand new battery.
After that it drove perfectly normally for several days. Though day before yesterday the radio did glitch when driving the infotainment system turned off and on as I was driving which I thought was odd.

The dealer told me I have a warranty for 20k miles and that if anything goes wrong, I can take it to any Nissan in the country. Then used a road trip down the coast as an example if I were to drive it off the lot that day. But can’t find that exact mileage in my paperwork they gave me. I had a friend with me who also heard the same number.

Yesterday afternoon I emailed the salesperson I bought the car from about the seatbelt warning light staying illuminated even when buckled since Thursday, and his only response was that I could take it to any Nissan due to the warranty.

This morning, after a jump the car wouldn't start or turn on, I emailed him yet again to alert him of the situation and asked him to call me when he could. Though that was this morning I haven't received a response thus far. Before this email he was very responsive to any emails and questions I had… which I find odd and unprofessional.

I called the dealership this morning and they did not offer to tow it there. They only said, “jump it and drive it up here” although with its unpredictability with it shutting down twice in a week I am hesitant to drive it back over several towns away.

I'm extremely frustrated, flustered and disappointed.

I'm planning to go in tomorrow to ask what my options are for getting it up there, looked at, diagnosed and fixed because I believe as per the warranty states it should be all covered.

I’m in WA state if that matters.

Any other steps I should be taking? I have screencaps of emails, texts and a video of the car not starting I took last night. In the last week I’ve maybe put 100 miles on it altogether.

I was so excited for this car and now I’m thinking that this is the start of possibly more headaches with this thing.

1979 Jeep CJ-5 Renegade ground up restoration, all running gear complete and everything rebuilt and painted...304 engine, Borg Warner T-150 manual 3-speed transmission, Dana 30 front axle, 20 rear axle...have several extra brand new jeep parts and there is actually way too much to list and nobody wants to read a book, I'm sure lol...see pics and contact me with any sensible and logical questions that you may have...really MSTA...asking $6,800 and a good home...located in Wheatfield, Northwest Indiana, zip code 46392

My kia died on me weeks ago. I’ve been car searching and need a car soon (my rental is adding up!) I have been negotiating with different manufacturers for either new or certified pre owned suv’s. I’ve gotten a final out the door price (all taxes/fees included) for a 2025 honda crv lx quoted at $29,527. This was after they lowered it from $30,699 after I first started negotiating. Is this a deal to jump on or wait and see? The crv is certified pre owned and has 13,000 miles on it. Only one owner and has been on the lot for 60 days.

Hey all, I have $10k to buy a car. I want a Toyota (please don't suggest other makes; I had a lot of trouble with my last Hyundai)...Does anyone know a good car lot in Indianapolis? I'm also open to using my cash as a down payment if that will get me something of good quality, but I can't go higher than a $15k car. My preferences are a Camry or Corolla, clean title, years ranging from 2015 to date; mileage maximum would be 120k; push-to-start button if possible but not compulsory; good on gas and no engine or transmission issues.

How much do you think you can resell a 2016 two-door Honda sports coupe?

Hi,
I am thinking about buying a 2013 matrix, 172km. Seller won’t go lower than 11.1k. I have not seen the service records as they do not have them. I also have not paid to see the carfax yet as this a private sale. I am not a car savy person, does this car seem overpriced? Located in BC, Canada:)
Thanks