I have a non LHR 3080 10gb FTW3 Ultra and want to get the 450w bios but can't find it anywhere. If anyone could help that'd be greatly appreciated.

Good afternoon... I need to know the exact thermal pad dimensions for the GTX 1650 SUPER SC ULTRA GAMING model. I hope you can help me; thank you very much.

Hello everyone! I had bought a 3080ti on Amazon recently and it said new. Was all excited and such. But on receipt the box JUST included the foam protection and a 3080ti. No manuals, no mounting bracket, not even a secondary box that opens up to the foam (something I've seen on unboxing videos).

Just curious what is actually included with a new 3080ti. Luckily I can return it still but feeling I got got.

Thanks!

I got this 1070 FTW edition ($478) beauty back in 2018 and I've been gaming with her ever since and I just upgraded to a RX 9070 GRE $520. I have no plans buying a 5070 or 5080 for $1,000, out of my budget. I definitely got my money worth out of this card.

I never overclocked or underclocked, she still runs like a charm but sadly game performance is coming at a higher demands and needed to upgrade to play newer games in High settings again.

Wish EVGA could come back and team up with AMD.

So long FTW, you'll be missed. 🫡

Hi everyone, recently bought a used evga 750 gq psu which was working good. The only issue is, when i bought it, it only had the 12hpwr connector for the gpu, but my 9070 xt requires 2x 8 pin connectors.

What should i do? I also searched in cablemod and in general and couldnt find much about this model in specific. Would appreciate any help as im worried about frying my gpu.

Hi everyone! Could someone suggest a simple method or a full step-by-step guide on how to restore the keys and Secure Boot functionality on an EVGA Z690 Dark KINGPiN? I’ve seen a few threads about this here, but I guess I’m just too dumb to figure it out.

SUP

Hi there! 👋 I have an EVGA GTX 980 and am thinking about replacing the thermal pads. I’d like to know how many it uses and what the correct thicknesses are. Thanks! 🙂

https://us.download.nvidia.com/Windows/617.42/617.42-desktop-win10-win11-64bit-international-dch-whql.exe

GeForce RTX 50 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D v2, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5050

GeForce RTX 40 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060

GeForce RTX 30 Series

GeForce RTX 3090 Ti, GeForce RTX 3090, GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, GeForce RTX 3080, GeForce RTX 3070 Ti, GeForce RTX 3070, GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, GeForce RTX 3060, GeForce RTX 3050

GeForce RTX 20 Series

GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2080, GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2070, GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2060

GeForce 16 Series

GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, GeForce GTX 1660, GeForce GTX 1650, GeForce GTX 1630

NVIDIA TITAN Series

NVIDIA TITAN RTX

Good evening, my pc was shutting down randomly and not getting power to the mice and keyboard all of a sudden and i decided to RMA it since it's covered under a 7 year warranty and after that I've tried for about 2 weeks to get information on the RMA I did for my PSU that was delivered to EVGA on September 24 and marked processing. I emailed on October 1st to check the status of the PSU to get more details and no one ever responded until today around 1pm eastern that my PSU is going to be shipped out with no details about the PSU only thing I have is that I'm receiving the same PSU since the serial numbers matches and that's it. No note on whether or not they fixed something or if nothing was wrong and they sent me the same unit. I waited near a month for it to be shipped to them and for it to come back. My RMA is 5421260914815443

Honestly for all that nonsense with not being able to get in contact with them or them sending me back a dysfunctional unit I should've just bought a new psu from Corsair...

This is my second card that was replaced in 2022 from a leaking water block. I assume after 5 or so years, it got brittle from the liquid flowing through it and started to leak. So I got an exact replacement card. My question is: If this cards water block starts to leak again, can it be replaced with a new water block? Does EVGA still have these original, brand new, old stock of these water blocks for my card to purchase for any future repairs I may have. Yes, I know its an older card and there are much bettter cards on the market; but the games I play, its all I need and I'm happy with its performance. If EVGA doesn't have any new, old stock of these water block made for my card, what 3rd party water block can I use? Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Hey all, got a blown diode on my 3090 FTW3 ultra. Hoping to identify and replace it. Contacted EVGA support but they were not able to identify DM1. Looks like its for the fan header.

Card posts and is recognized by windows, only issues so far seem to be 4 red leds, no iCX temp readings except for gpu core, 100% fans by default with no rpm feedback but still controllable. I'm hoping this one blown diode is causing all these issues, but I'm unsure at this point. Any pointers would be appreciated, thanks all!

Hi everyone,

I have an EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra 10GB with dual BIOS (Normal/OC), and I’m trying to update the VBIOS to enable ReBAR.

My Device ID is 10DE-2206 - 3842 3897. The current BIOS versions are:

Normal BIOS: 94.02.26.48.68

OC BIOS: 94.02.26.48.AE

I’m confused about which VBIOS on TechPowerUp is the correct match for my card. Could someone please guide me on finding the correct ReBAR-enabled Normal and OC VBIOS?

Thanks! 🙏

Hey everyone,

Has anyone else running the 0x12F beta BIOS (v1.23) on a Z790 Dark KINPIN run into a completely broken Secure Boot state?

On my board, Secure Boot is permanently locked into an "AMI Test Platform Key" fallback loop. Whenever I try to turn it on, it throws a Secure Boot Violation screen and blocks Windows.

I've tried everything to fix it:

• Deep CMOS clearance (pulling the battery and draining capacitance)
• Resetting keys to factory defaults / clearing variables
• Toggling between Custom and Standard modes

Despite all that, the UEFI refuses to flush the test keys and instantly reverts back to the Test AMI loop. This is a nightmare because games with kernel-level anti-cheat won't let me play with Secure Boot disabled.

Did any of you experience this specific bug on the Dark KINPIN 0x12F build, and did you find a workaround to force-clean the NVRAM variables? Any advice is appreciated.

TL;DR: My Windows would only boot with Secure Boot off. Every file on my EFI partition was validly signed by Windows Production PCA 2011, which was in my db, and restoring default keys, clearing keys, and reflashing the BIOS changed nothing. What fixed it was booting Microsoft's own install media with Secure Boot on (it worked), then copying that media's boot manager over the one on my EFI partition. I never confirmed why the original file was rejected.

My setup: EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin (AMI BIOS, UEFI mode, CSM off), Windows 11 26H2. Keys in the BIOS: AMI test PK, Microsoft KEK CA 2011, db with UEFI CA 2011 and Windows Production PCA 2011, dbx with 211 hashes.

What I ruled out

• Missing 2023 certificates: my boot manager was signed by Production PCA 2011, not the 2023 CA, so the db trusted it. You can check yours with Get-AuthenticodeSignature S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi | fl SignerCertificate.
• Stale keys: restoring defaults and reflashing didn't change anything, because the defaults are stored in the BIOS image itself. EVGA stopped making motherboards, so no BIOS with new keys is coming.
• BIOS clock: it was correct.
• Other boot files: I listed every .efi on the EFI partition with Get-ChildItem S:\EFI -Recurse -Filter *.efi | Get-AuthenticodeSignature, and they were all signed by Production PCA 2011.

The test that found it:

1. Make Windows install media. The Media Creation Tool stalled for me, so I used the ISO instead. Format a USB stick as FAT32 with GPT and copy the ISO contents with robocopy E:\ U:\ /E /XF install.wim install.esd(E: is the mounted ISO, U: is the stick). Skipping install.wim is fine because we only need to reach Setup.
2. Check the stick's boot file is signed by Production PCA 2011, the same CA as your installed one, so the test is valid: Get-AuthenticodeSignature U:\efi\boot\bootx64.efi | fl SignerCertificate.
3. Boot the stick with Secure Boot enabled. In the BIOS Boot tab, set Boot Option #1 to the USB Key:UEFI: entry, enable Secure Boot, save and exit. It reached the Windows Setup screen. Don't click Install.
4. Confirm Secure Boot was really on. Press Shift+F10 in Setup and run reg query HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\SecureBoot\State /v UEFISecureBootEnabled. 0x1 means on.

That showed my firmware trusted a Microsoft-signed boot file, so the problem was in my installed boot path.

The fix (boot Windows with Secure Boot off first, in an admin PowerShell):

mountvol S: /s
Get-FileHash D:\efi\boot\bootx64.efi, S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi

(D: is the install stick.) My hashes differed. I backed up the old file and replaced it:

Copy-Item S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi.bak
Copy-Item D:\efi\boot\bootx64.efi S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi -Force

I confirmed the new hash matched the stick's, set Windows Boot Manager as Boot Option #1, enabled Secure Boot, and Windows booted. msinfo32 shows Secure Boot State: On.

Caveats

• I don't know why the original file was rejected. My best guess is a revoked or damaged build, but I haven't checked it against the dbx yet.
• This only applies if your files are signed by a CA that's in your db. If your boot manager is signed by Windows UEFI CA 2023 and your db lacks it, you have a different problem.
• A future Windows update may overwrite the boot manager. Keep the install stick and the .bak file as a fallback.
• If you use BitLocker, have your recovery key ready, because boot changes can trigger a recovery prompt.
• Don't use "Clear Keys" or "Reset To Setup Mode" while troubleshooting unless you know how to restore them.

Thanks to everyone who suggested things. Happy to answer questions.

Oh, Yeah! =)

I have two EVGA GTX 580 Classified 3GB but only have 1 original box still. They have been in a drawer for years.. I am still running a 2080 ti and looking to upgrade.

Hola 👋 buenas noches, tengo una GTX 980 EVGA y estoy pensado en cambiarle los pad termicos, me gustaria saber cuantos lleva y que espesor son los adecuados

Muchas gracias 🙂

Awhile back I was going through my closet and found my 7800GS, which had burned out long ago. Realizing that EVGA was going away, I decided to open a ticket and ask if they could try to repair it.

They had me send it in. Unfortunately they couldn't do anything, so they sent me back a GT 730 - which serves as my tester card. I just had it out yesterday. Every time I do I remember back in the day, going from an EVGA Geforce 4 MX 440 to 6800GT to 7800GS to GTX 480, a brief stint with AMD (r9270x), then a 980Ti - all EVGA.

It looks like EVGA is fading away, so I wanted to say thank you while some of the folks involved in EVGA might be around to hear it! :)

Thaiphoon burner says it has Hynix chips

GeForce RTX 50 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D v2, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5050

GeForce RTX 40 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060

GeForce RTX 30 Series

GeForce RTX 3090 Ti, GeForce RTX 3090, GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, GeForce RTX 3080, GeForce RTX 3070 Ti, GeForce RTX 3070, GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, GeForce RTX 3060, GeForce RTX 3050

GeForce RTX 20 Series

GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2080, GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2070, GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2060

GeForce 16 Series

GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, GeForce GTX 1660, GeForce GTX 1650, GeForce GTX 1630

NVIDIA TITAN Series

NVIDIA TITAN RTX

My 850G+ died on me and i used the warranty. it was approved and they sent a 850GA. which normally id be less likely to complain. i got my power supply right? but they only request and send back the unit not the cords. and its not recommended to use cables between different models or risk frying components. also in the RMA warranty it says they are obligated to provide a replacement of equal or greater performance.

am i being A overly paranoid? i run local LLMs on my computer and i run a lot of power through my PC, 3070TI, R7 5800X3D

is it technically equal performance? even when it has 2 less Molex Connectors? and reviews say its a worse model?

New in box cooler, the power supply was never used, x299 motherboard with i7-9800x (might upgrade to a 10940x later on), 1080 ti cleaned and repasted, intel wifi 6e chip, and I have some EVGA superSC ram coming to add to the 32gb of OLOY and make 64gb of quad channel with all 8 sticks

Long story short, my Optimus water block for my 3090 failed from a stripped screw into the block. Had to go back on air and the temps are scaring me from what I was used to (40C-50C vs 70C-80C). I used Thermal Grizzly Extreme for the die, and Upsiren UTP-8 for the memory and VRMs. I was able to hybridize the setup a bit and continue utilizing the massive aluminum heat-sink back plate that Optimus provided with their water block. So back plate memory temps are in the 60C range including underneath with the air cooler. I've limited the GPU temp to 80C in PX1, and so everything seems to be contained under normal air operating temps.

I guess my whole point to this post is to see how many of you are still on air with your 3090 FTW3 Ultra's and what are your normal temps. I know these cards ran hot under air and a lot of them had underlying issues that made them fail. Worst possible GPU financial climate for me to have to forgo water cooling unfortunately...

Hey guys,

Just bought a hydro copper block off eBay with no pads on it.

When I try sitting the PCB on the block with no pads, the capacitors are touching the block and preventing the PCB to be anywhere near any screw holes.

I cannot find any manuals online for the block, can anyone confirm if I am missing any parts or tell me why the PCBs capacitors are pushing the card up so high?

Seller insisted it’s a 3080 FTW3 HC block and I have all parts.

I apologize for the crap picture, but you can see how far the standoff is from the screw holes on the PCB as well as how the capacitors are bottoming out on the block, lifting the PCB up. The only thing making contact with the block are the capacitors.

If someone has an install manual I’d love to see it.

UPDATE: Just compared pictures of our cards PCBs. His has a flat capacitor on the row next to the VRAM while mine has the taller barrel style. I can’t believe this was a difference when EVGA made the card. Just my luck. This difference makes the block a complete paper weight.

So she died yesterday tried everything from another psu to another pc

anyone has any idea what to do now?