Anyone else got their finger stuck in this atrocity?

Have there been changes in any components, such as the air suspension, that have been known to have issues within the gen2 years? Also is the premium audio any better or is it consistently bad in 27 as well? My wife loves the R1S but I’m hesitant to spend 90k on a SUV.

Super excited to finally be a part of the Rivian Family!

Just picked up my 2025 Rivian R1S Dual Standard.

If you have any tips or tricks drop them down below in the comment section.

Was just told that my 2-week-old R1S needs to be towed to a Service Center because the latest update 2026.36.0 "failed" and has completely disabled the vehicle. For some reason, they're unable to reset it remotely.

I am deeply regretting buying this car right now. Anyone else regretting their recent purchase? I know there's a Rivian learning curve, but after spending this much money, this seems ridiculous and unacceptable.

UPDATE: 

Thank you, everyone, for the encouragement—I really appreciate it. Happy ending tonight!

The software update stalled at 8% for hours and Rivian Support tried to remotely push/reset it, but that failed. At that point they told me the vehicle would need to be towed to the Service Center.

Thankfully, I had actually just bought a key fob and was able to use it to get into the vehicle, connect it to a stronger Wi-Fi, and the update finally completed.

Afterward, everything came back except the vehicle’s cellular connection. An infotainment reset didn’t fix it, but I did one full vehicle reset and LTE came back immediately. The SOS warning I'd had for the last few days is gone, as well, and everything now appears to be working normally.

So—no tow truck, no Service Center, and my R1S is alive again.

I’m also VERY glad I bought the key fob. Without it, this would have ended with the vehicle on a flatbed tonight.

Thanks again for talking me off the ledge, you guys. I was very excited to buy this car, so I’m just hoping this was just a very dramatic software hiccup.

Got our R1S 2026 (dual motor so no back cubbies 😭) and we tired sleeping in it using camp mode, but having issues setting it up:
- first night we just turned on camp mode, energy managing option off, it was warm, and our understanding was that in camp mode car will self ventilate— well it didn’t we had lots of condensation on the windows.
- next time we tried still camp mode, energy managing off, but then we tried setting hold temp with low fan for 8h in the app. Well car just shut down and no ventilation..
- so next we tried the energy managing ON, and set the temp on 70 with low fan (or better auto?), that worked in terms of running fans all night, but the screen would randomly turn on during night waking us up (could that be the gear watch option? We forgot to turn it off..). Also it ate 10% of battery 😬

Another thing we could not figure out - in camp mode it says you can just pull on the handle from inside and it will unlock the car without triggering the alarm. Well it did trigger an alarm (not loud or anything but had to tap something on screen)

So what’s your optimal system settings for sleeping inside to keep the battery usage low and get some climate control or at least ventilation (other than just sleeping with open windows:)

Pic from the trunk on our current trip in Sierra Nevada :) this car is FUNNNN

Although the owl ‘hoo hoooo’ is rad, passive entry has my wife pretty annoyed. I wanted to do a ‘not at home’ setting change, but couldn’t figure it out. So I turned off passive entry because my wife was over it lol.

But then when I unlocked via the app and got in the car, it wasn’t detecting a key. I put my phone on the little charger tray as instructed, but no success.

Turned passive entry back on and I can drive it again.

My noob questions:

1. How can I adjust passive entry to disable while at home?
   
2. Without passive entry, what is the best practice for unlocking without waiting 4-5 seconds for it to unlock via the lock icon on the Rivian app?
   
3. Using the phone as key inside the car: what am I doing wrong?

Thank you 🙏 🙏

2025 Tri Motor 19k miles. Seems isolated to just rear 1/4 panel no bumper or tail lights. I’m estimated a couple k? Pulling gear guard footage but can’t make out tags clearly. Happened in Ga. Any other ideas? Specific Rivian body shop? Considering paying cash vs claim unless it’s $$$

If you own a Rivian, or if one of your neighbors owns a Rivian, you need to be aware of this issue of “unintended acceleration,” or what I might call “Hyper-Acceleration.”

On October 2, 2026, my next-door-neighbor’s Rivian R1S Hyper-accelerated (unintended acceleration?) in his driveway to what I calculate as maybe 40+ mph, not sure.  My neighbor was behind the wheel.  He swerved to avoid hitting his garage, ran through a hedge, and hit my daughter’s Jeep Wrangler.  Both the Rivian and the Jeep continued into my garage (a 1-car garage).  My wife’s 1964 Austin Healey was stored in that garage, and the force of the 7,000 pound Rivian crushed the back of the Healey and pushed it through the back wall of the garage.  We also had an older Jaguar next to the garage, and that was also damaged. No one was hurt, thank goodness--my daughter was unloading groceries just an hour before the incident..

On the police report the driver stated he “experienced an issue with the vehicle’s accelerator, which he stated got stuck in the engaged position.”

We are “old school” and our cars have a few years on them—so all 3 of our cars were totaled.  The Rivian was also totaled.  Our garage is totaled and will need to be torn down.

Our neighbor requested black box info from Rivian, but they have not provided anything yet.

Does anyone have any information how these Hyper-Acceleration cases are happening other than operator error?  Seems like if you (the operator) applied the brake, wouldn’t that stop the Rivian?

We are working through the rubble and rebuilding.  If Rivian is at fault, we need them to correct this issue before people die—or before more people die--before WE die--my neighbor has another Rivian!!??  Thanks for listening.  Any help appreciated.

Full disclosure up front: my son and I design and hand-assemble organizers for the R1 under the name OverSpec Designs. A lot of you were part of this from the start: the floor console began as a feature brainstorm and turned into the finished organizer, so I wanted to share the next one here first.

After the floor console launched, a lot of you asked about the armrest cubby. So we built one.

The fun part: my son designed the armrest organizer himself. Over the last few months, he did the CAD, the testing, and the fitment iterations. I mostly got out of the way and helped where he asked. Watching him go from co-designing the floor console with me to leading this one on his own has been the best part of the whole project.

Three common problems he wanted to solve:

• Trash: Garbage needed a real system, not a loose bag floating around the footwell or back seat. The trash setup (the Bin Kit) keeps it out of sight, holds a spare roll of bags underneath, and feeds a fresh liner up through the bottom when it is time to swap.
• Access underneath: Getting to the bottom of the cubby should not mean unloading everything first. A lot of drop-in organizers work like one bucket. If you need the space below, the main tray has to come out first. We split ours into trays, so you can lift one lower tray and get to the cubby below it.

• Versatility: One fixed layout doesn't fit how people actually use this space. Three removable trays, plus the ability to run the Bin Kit with or without the other trays, give you about 20 layouts before you even start moving the dividers around: all trays, open space below, bin only, bin plus storage, and a bunch of layouts in between. With the Bin Kit in, the top tray sits dashboard-side only.

Fits R1S/R1T (Gen 1 and Gen 2).

If you want to see it in motion, my son made a walkthrough: https://youtu.be/6Sltv4viiKw

Full specs are in the video description.

As always, happy to answer fitment or design questions.

I tow my race car 100 miles round trip about 8 times a year during the summer with an open car trailer. The route is 95% freeway at 75 mph. At most the trailer plus car weighs 4,600 lbs. Looking at towing range data from current dual-motor owners the standard battery should be more than enough. Even if efficiency drops 60% I should have plenty of range to spare. I have no desire to tow beyond that. If I need to go to a track further away I’m paying someone to transport the car.

Additionally, my daily commute is around 40 miles round trip in the Upper Midwest. Seems like the max battery would be way over kill and additional weight is always detrimental to a vehicle’s range, handling, and braking distance.

Curious if anyone can offer a real-world perspective on towing range anxiety?

Are you getting them third party or from the Rivian service center? How much are they costing you? I’m trying to budget for them. Thanks!