Guys,does anyone know how to solve this vga light problem.I started building pc yesterday.The graphic card showed display for first time but I removed it to make a video.But after reinserting i got this problem.I also made psu connections as first.i removed ssd and tried,i sgorted jbat1.But still nothing seems to work.

basically it turns on all the fans spin including the GPU for a second or too but nothing lights up on the screen. I have two GPUs so I tried both of them but nothing. is this an issue with the CPU or Mobo? Or is there even enough info to find out lol not sure. Based off my memory I'm using a MSI gaming 970 and an amd fx 8350 I think my GPUs are Asus strix gaming 8gb and a Nvidia GeForce GTX 6gb (not exactly sure if the GPU names are right or accurate exactly, also due to the fact that the pc failed to show anything on the screen I'm assuming that my GPUs are fine) I do believe I am running two 8gb ddr3 sticks and two 4gb ddr3 sticks if that could be the issue never checked that, ran fine with it though.

sorry for long post

I’m trying to determine whether my i9-14900K is defective before pursuing an Intel warranty replacement.

PC Specs

• CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI
• BIOS: 1836 (updated from 1805)
• RAM: 96GB Corsair DDR5 (2×48GB), running at 4800 MT/s with XMP disabled
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3090 Founders Edition
• Cooling: 360mm AIO liquid cooler
• Original Windows SSD: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB
• New SSD: Samsung 990 PRO 2TB
• Storage: Samsung 870 EVO 4TB
• OS: Windows 11 Pro

Initial symptoms

It started with Minecraft Bedrock crashing randomly, sometimes while loading chunks and sometimes while doing absolutely nothing. Other players on the same Realm weren’t crashing.

Eventually I discovered much broader instability:

• Dozens of Windows Reliability Monitor critical events
• Windows Search Indexer, Software Protection Platform, Windows Modules Installer, and other services repeatedly crashing
• Multiple BSODs and unexpected shutdowns
• Windows system-file/component-store corruption

Crash evidence

Event Viewer recorded:

WHEA-Logger Event ID 19

• Reported by: Processor Core
• Error source: Corrected Machine Check
• Error type: Internal parity error
• Processor APIC ID: 41

I also analyzed five minidumps:

• Four crashes with 0x3B (SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION)
• One crash with 0x50 (PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA)
• Access violation 0xC0000005
• WinDbg identified crashes involving ntkrnlmp.exe and Ntfs.sys, including Ntfs!NtfsReadFileRecord

Troubleshooting already performed

BIOS / CPU

• Updated ASUS BIOS to version 1836
• Selected Intel Default Settings — Performance
• Disabled ASUS MultiCore Enhancement (Enforce All Limits)
• Disabled XMP
• Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool: PASS
• OCCT CPU test stopped at its 90°C temperature safety threshold, with no computation errors detected before stopping

RAM

• OCCT 30-minute memory test: PASS
• Tested each 48GB stick individually in the recommended A2 slot
• Both produced the same Windows startup failure
• BIOS consistently recognizes both modules

Storage / Windows

• Both original Samsung SSDs reported Healthy / OK
• chkdsk C: /scan found no file-system errors
• DISM detected repairable component-store corruption
• DISM RestoreHealth failed with errors including 1726 and 0x800F0915
• SFC initially reported a pending repair, then later failed at 65%
• Completed Windows 11’s built-in repair installation, but component-store corruption persisted
• Windows Automatic Repair eventually failed, leaving Windows unable to boot

Current problem: Fresh Windows installation fails

I disconnected the original 1TB Windows SSD and installed a Samsung 990 PRO 2TB for a completely clean Windows 11 Pro installation.

Used Microsoft’s Windows 11 USB installation media and completely cleared the 2TB drive.

Windows Setup creates the EFI, MSR, and primary partitions, but the system restarts and goes back to BIOS with no Windows Boot Manager.

After multiple attempts, I checked the SSD using DiskPart. There is no D:\Windows directory. Only the temporary $Windows.~BT installation folder exists.

Setup logs show the installer preparing/restoring Windows image application operations, but no clear fatal installation error. The computer seems to restart before Windows finishes installing.

Temperatures

• CPU idles around 32–37°C in BIOS
• AIO liquid temperature around 31°C
• Left the PC in BIOS for 20 minutes; CPU temperature remained approximately 35°C
• No obvious overheating at idle

My questions

1. Does this sound like a degraded i9-14900K, given the processor-core internal parity error, unrelated application crashes, and repeated BSODs?
2. Could the CPU’s memory controller or motherboard explain this even though both RAM sticks behave similarly?
3. What additional testing would best isolate the CPU before requesting a warranty replacement?
4. Has anyone experienced Windows 11 installation failures like this with a failing 14900K?

I’m trying to avoid blindly replacing components, but at this point I’m strongly considering an Intel CPU warranty claim. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Before I bring this to a repair shop, I wanna see if anyone has a solution to my problem.

Im currently trying to build a pc. I’ve got the CPU in, the ram, and the ssd. Now comes time to install the fan for the cpu. I’m using the cooler that came with my cpu(amd ryzen 5 5500). These screws don’t want to come off, and I’ve tried everything I can think of. Mind u I’m using the right screwdriver (Phillip 2) and I’ve tried the rubber band method and everything. I’ve gotten two out (even getting these out took a bit of time too), but the most stubborn screws are the ones that are still on the mount. No matter what I do, nothing works, and it’s to the point where I see hella shavings. Every time I turn it counterclockwise it just makes this pop sound but nothing actually happens. I’m really confused because the two I took off were able to come off (with difficulty) but the other two are being really stubborn and I’m honestly just debating on whether I should just have someone build the whole pc. I wanted to build it myself but I’ve been stuck on this the whole night and I don’t see any solution.

First of all, yes, I do know I'm an idiot.

But to elaborate, I almost finished installing a Phantom Spirit 120 SE (just needed to put on the fans and do the wiring) when I watched a video to learn how to do a certain step, and in the video the dude peeled off a kind of plastic sticker at the bottom of the heat sink.

I'm guessing I need to do the same. I just don't know if I need to apply a new coat of thermal paste as well or not. And if so, can I use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to remove the previous coat? Or do I just stick with a coffee filter and rubbing alcohol like I've heard about?

This is my first time building a PC, so I apologize if I'm not being clear about anything or asking a really dumb question. I'll elaborate more if needed.

How can I fix this guys ? Anti sag, now the support is laying on the wan (which I’m not a fan of) and blocking the logo triggering my ocd.

Is there anything I could add to the screw holes in the front of the gpu ?

I was looking to upgrade my psu from 600w 80plus bronze and this psu was on sale for the same price as a 750/850w 80 plus gold. And I am wondering if this psu will last at least 10 years.

Pc in what it will be installed:

Rx 6700 XT

Ryzen 7 5700x

I know that 1200w is an overkill but efficiency at around 400w is better than the 750w 80plus gold psus in my price range.

Workstation specifications

• OS: Ubuntu 22.04 LTS
• CPU: AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3970X
• Motherboard: GIGABYTE TRX40 AORUS XTREME
• GPUs: 4 × NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti
• RAM: 256 GB
• Storage:
  • 1 × 4 TB NVMe SSD — OS and software
  • 1 × 2 TB NVMe SSD — scratch storage
  • 120 TB HDD storage — cold storage
• PSU: Sparkle Power FSP2000-52AGPBI, 2000 W

Background

This workstation was purchased by our laboratory to preprocess data before it is transferred to our HPC cluster. Historically, it has mainly been used for CPU-intensive workloads with relatively light GPU usage.

However, our processing pipeline has changed over time, and several of the applications we use have become increasingly GPU-intensive. I noticed that the workstation would occasionally shut down abruptly under heavy GPU load.

When these shutdowns occur:

• The machine loses power abruptly with no errors in the logs preceding the shutdown.
• After a shutdown, I have to wait ~20 minutes before the machine can be powered on again.

I stress-tested the CPU, RAM and storage individually and there were no problems. However, GPU stress testing always causes a shutdown, this led me to suspect either the GPU power delivery or the PSU itself.

Stress-test behaviour

Single GPU under sustained load:
The workstation may eventually shut down after a period of sustained GPU power draw.

All four GPUs under load:
The workstation shuts down after approximately 5 minutes.

I initially suspected that the 2000 W PSU might be faulty or unable to cope with the GPU load, so we purchased a new ASUS 2200 W PSU.

While disconnecting the original PSU, however, I noticed another potential problem.

Issue A: Existing GPU power cabling

Each RTX 3080 Ti was being powered using a single PCIe 8-pin cable from the PSU that splits into two 6+2-pin PCIe connectors at the GPU end. In other words, both 8-pin power sockets on each GPU were being supplied by a single daisy-chained/pigtail cable.

From what I have read, an RTX 3080 Ti should preferably be powered using two separate PCIe 8-pin cables from the PSU, rather than both connectors being supplied from the same cable.

I am therefore wondering whether the existing cabling could explain the shutdowns under sustained GPU load, rather than the PSU itself necessarily being faulty.

Issue B: Connecting four RTX 3080 Ti cards to the new PSU

The new 2200 W PSU presents another problem. It does not appear to have enough conventional PCIe 8-pin PSU outputs to provide two independent 8-pin cables to each of the four GPUs.

The newer PSU instead provides several 16-pin GPU power connectors, which I understand are 12VHPWR/12V-2x6 style connections.

I am not particularly experienced with high-power workstation hardware, so I can currently see several possible approaches, but I am unsure which is safest:

1. Continue using the original 2000 W PSU, assuming it is still functional, and obtain the correct additional PCIe power cables so that each RTX 3080 Ti receives two separate PCIe 8-pin cables.
2. Replace the original PSU with the new 2200 W PSU, and either:
   • A. Power all four GPUs using the available PCIe 8-pin outputs in a similar configuration to the existing system; or
   • B. Power two GPUs using four conventional PCIe 8-pin PSU outputs, and power the remaining two GPUs from the PSU’s 16-pin GPU outputs using appropriate 16-pin-to-dual-8-pin cables/adapters.

My main concern is making the safest configuration before powering the workstation again. Because this is laboratory equipment and replacing the workstation or four GPUs would be impossible given the state of hardware prices.

I would appreciate advice on:

• Is powering each 3080 Ti from a single daisy-chained PCIe cable could plausibly explain the shutdown behaviour.
• Whether the ~20 minute period before the workstation can be restarted is consistent with PSU over-current, over-power or thermal protection being triggered.
• Is it preferable to keep the existing 2000 W PSU and correct the cabling, or replace it with the new 2200 W PSU.
• Whether using the new PSU’s 16-pin GPU outputs with manufacturer-approved 16-pin-to-dual-8-pin cables is appropriate for RTX 3080 Ti cards.
• Any tests I should perform before reconnecting all four GPUs.

Thank you for any help that you can provide. For the sake of completeness I also posted this question on the Level1tech forums but I haven't really gotten an answer yet.

I am so tired I genuinely made chatgpt write this shit for me because It was helping me for 99% of the process

Specs:

Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ac

GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX 560 Gaming OC 4GB

RAM: 2×8GB Corsair Vengeance

CPU: Unknown Intel CPU

Cooler: Corsair AIO liquid cooler, exact model unknown

PSU: Thermaltake, exact model unknown

What happened:

About seven months ago, a mouse cable fell into one of the small fans on my CPU liquid-cooling assembly while the PC was running. Afterward, the PC stopped working. I disassembled it, put the parts away, and didn't troubleshoot it further until now.

Current symptoms:

The PC powers on, and the fans and RAM lights turn on.

After roughly 30 seconds, the lights and fans shut off, then start again automatically. This repeats.

No display output.

My keyboard lights never turn on.

The Corsair pump's lights don't turn on.

I previously noticed two slowly flashing red lights on the underside of the motherboard, but I'm not sure whether they're decorative.

The small fan involved in the original incident appears to be fine.

I've started checking and reseating power connections. I haven't identified the exact AIO model yet, and there's an unplugged three-hole cable coming from the square pump block on the CPU. I'm not sure what it does or where it belongs.

I want to identify the cause before buying replacement parts. What should I check next, and how can I determine whether this is a PSU, motherboard, RAM, GPU, or CPU/cooler issue?

Thanks!

I've got a 32gb G.Skill 6000mhz 32-38-38-96 kit in my desktop. To make a long story short, I had a need for more memory and my wife's machine has a similar kit, but the timings are 36-36-36-96. She doesn't really use her desktop, so I snagged one of the sticks. My system booted up no problem without any changes, everything works great. The problem that I've run into now, is that every time I reboot my computer WITH the extra memory installed, it won't even post. If I remove the extra stick, the system boots fine. Power down, reinstall the extra stick, boots up just fine. Reboot, no post. I've tried it several times now and it does the exact same thing every single time. I thought maybe it was just taking a long time to train but I left it for a while, it never did anything.

Admittedly RAM is the one thing I've never really tinkered with so my knowledge is pretty much non-existent here. I've mixed and matched DDR4 with wildly different timings without issue in the past, I know DDR5 is more particular about it but I can't wrap my head around why it works only once, consistently. I've tried memory context restore with no luck. Cold boot vs warm boot makes no difference either.

Hey everyone, I got a 3090 paired with an i7 14700kf and the PSU is a Rm1000e from Corsair.

My problem is the following every now and then I've suffered from my screen going black and my PC fans going Max power. So far has happened in 3 games: Peak while transitioning from a level to another, Valheim during heavy storms and rain and now in The master chief collection playing Halo reach.

Now If you look at the picture you'll see the pcie cables going to my graphics card are split into two on both connections, my question is:

1- the cables being 6 and 2 instead of one of 8 is causing this issue? Google says yes but I need to know for sure since in my city heavy gaming PC parts are basically none existent and I would have to buy whatever I need, that leads to the next question

2- what brand or what should I look for to solve the issue of the split pcie without frying the rest.

I would really appreciate you guys help since I don't want to damage anything

Anyone know why these clamp screws won’t go down no matter how much pressure I apply/how long I screw for?

Cooler: Deepcool AG400 G2 RGB

I’ve installed the bracket for AMD with the backplate but the CPU cooler’s screws just won’t reach nor will the screws ever go down.

Hello! I am currently planning a pc build with an 1800-2000$ budget and through research I have found that the best card in this price range is the 9070xt. I currently play with a 4070 laptop and I do know a couple of things.

1. Laptop cards are generally much less powerful than their desktop counterparts.
   
2. The 9070xt sits somewhere in between the 5070 and 5070ti in terms of performance, closer to the 5070ti than the 5070 for sure.
   
3. Compared to other generational jumps, the jump from the 40 to 50 serious of cards in terms of graphical power was seen by many as an underwhelming increase.

Considering this, I am confident that there will be a sizable increase between the 4070 laptop and a 9070xt desktop, but is it worth the price of building an entire pc around it? What performance increase should I expect in 1440p gaming?

For some extra info the pc will be using 32 gbs of ddr5 6000, which the laptop has the same amount of gbs but only 4800. The pc will be using an Intel Ultra 270 K+ compared to the i9 13900hx of my laptop. Thanks in advance!

​

**CPU**: intel i5 12400

**MOTHERBOARD**: asus tuf gaming b660m plus wifi dr4

**GPU**: zotac rtx 3050 8 gb

**PSU** : evga 700 bq

**RAM** : ripjaw 16 gb 3600 cl 16

**CPU COOLER** : thermalright peerless assassin 120

**CASE** : deepcool matrexx 55 mesh 4f

**MONITOR** : gigabyte m27q 1440p 170 hz

i wanna play triple AAA games like crimson desert **GTA 6** on ultra settings

I HAVE flexible budget capped at 2000 $ but preferably under **1500$**

# LIMITED TIME

**i have the option of grabbing a combo of MICROCENTER but only before the end of november as my friend would already be here in egypt by then**

what should be my strategy

just get **rx 9070 xt** and hope that the bottle neck isn't noticable (i have low standards but i am not blind )

grab the overpriced terrible value **rtx 5070 ti** just for the ray tracing and dlss dlss5 and theoritcal more longevity

go crazy and get a f...ing **5080** for god what reason

buy the **rx 9070 x**t with slight upgrade to my cpu now or in the future if i didnt like the experiance to **14th gen i5** (i heard that ai is coming for CPUs too)

**9070xt** and good budget combo of microcenter now AMD Ryzen **5 7500X3D**, ASRock B850M-C AM5, G.Skill Flare X5 Series 16GB DDR5-6000, Computer Build Bundle 399$

or an overkill AMD Ryzen **7 7800X3D**, ASUS B650E Max Gaming WiFi AM5, G.Skill Flare X5 Series 32GB DDR5-6000 Kit, Computer Build Bundle

or just **wait** for the game to drop and next gen ect.... ( but i can't play now games i want like crimson desert and a lot more )

UPGRADING THE PSU GOES WITHOUT SAYING BUT I WOULD LOVE RECOMMENDATION

**THANK YOU IN ADVANCE**

I received a quote from a local shop that does PC repairs and custom builds. I just told them what I needed and they sent the pictured build, but the price was a bit more than I expected/wanted. What would be a decent price for this build? (Not including labor etc.)

$629.99, Intel Core Ultra 7 270K Plus, Gigabyte Z890 Eagle WiFi7 Plus 1851, G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32GB DDR5-6000 Bundle Micro Center

$779.99, Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 9070 XT 16 GB Video Card

$59.99, Phanteks XT View Matrix Mid-Tower ATX Gaming PC Case Newegg

$99.99, ASRock Phantom Gaming PG-850G 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Newegg

$269.99, KIOXIA EXCERIA w/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Newegg

$29.99, ID-COOLING FROZN A620 PRO SE 58 CFM CPU Cooler Amazon

This is what I'm going with currently. Everything besides the CPU and GPU has been ordered. I'm mainly using it for gaming and schoolwork that doesn't include anything high-intensity, just normal docs, spreadsheets, etc. I want to play high-graphics games like Skyrim with mods, Cyberpunk, COD, Resident Evil, and a lot of triple-A titles. As the title said, I'm stuck between Ryzen and Intel for the CPU, and 9070XT and 5070Ti for the GPU. I was told the difference between the Intel 270k and Ryzen 7 7800X3D is negligible, and that the 9070XT is better in a lot of games despite being around $300 cheaper. Any opinions?

Recently, I upgraded my 4070 SUPER to a 5080. I also upgraded my 650w PSU to an 850w PSU. Of course, the 5080 came with its own 16pin power cable, but it's quite short and requires 3 PCIE cables to plug into the PSU. So, I decided to use the 16pin 600w cable provided by MSI w/my PSU.

The problem is this: no matter what I do, I CANNOT get the 16-pin cable from MSI to go all the way into my GPU. The 16-pin cable provided by NVIDIA goes in just fine, but the MSI one doesn't quite go all the way in.

So, my question is this.

The PSU I bought came with 2 PCIE cables, both of which have a daisy-chained additional PCIE connector. The 16-pin cable provided by NVIDIA needs 3. So can I use these 2 cables, and plug into all 3 connectors of my 16-pin GPU power cable?

One of the cables would be plugged into 2 of the ports, while the other cable would just go into 1.

Or do I need to buy a third PCIE cable that is compatible?

Keep in mind my current card is a 5080, which draws a decent bit of wattage.

Good evening everyone, I recently got a small 128GB SSD and I want to start fresh with a new OS on this drive and use my main 512GB SSD as my files/games drive. I plugged it into an external enclosure to format it and I couldn't initialize it, receiving an "Incorrect Function" error. Tried cmd to clean and format it, but that failed too. Thinking this might be from the enclosure, I plugged it straight into my mobo's second M.2 slot and now my PC won't POST, showing a VGA light. Any thoughts on either or both issues (SSD not initializing and/or PC not POSTing with white VGA light)?

Build:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X

Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming Wi-Fi II

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo Series 2x16GB DDR4 3600MHz F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC

Graphics Card: EVGA GTX 1080Ti SC2

Power Supply: EVGA 850 GQ 850W 80+ Gold

Thank you for the help in advance! I'm new to building a PC and get overwhelmed with PC parts/lingo. I've been using PCpartpicker. Let me know if any more info helps. I just don't want to build something that's overkill but want something that's nice and smooth for modern games.

All build/upgrade/parts check requests must copy and answer the questions on the post submission page.

• New build or upgrade? New
• Existing parts/monitors to reuse? No
• PC purpose? Gaming (RPGs/GTA6/Cyperbunk/RDR type game), Video/Photo editing
• Purchase country? USA, not near micro center
• Monitors needed? 2
• Budget range? around $2,000 USD (not including monitors, keyboard, mouse)
• WiFi or wired connection? Either or, preferably wired
• Size/noise constraints? No, prefer quieter build...
• Color/lighting preferences? White/Blue
• Any other specific needs? No - I just wan't something that I can game/run adobe (photoshop/indesign/premier) on smoothly. Never have had a PC, always have gamed on console. Told myself I'd finally save for one for GTA6, haha.

I bought a new A520M DS3H V2, but it doesn't show the BIOS screen.

It has a Ryzen 5 5500, the GPU seems fine, the RAM also seems fine (no beep codes), the PSU is brand new, and everything powers on. I already tried removing the CMOS battery to reset it and changing the RAM slots, but nothing worked. Does anyone know what I should do?

My peripherals won't turn on, and there's no display. I know this is a common issue, but I tried resetting the BIOS—that didn't work. I also tried holding down the power button for a minute, but that didn't help either. The peripherals are completely dead, and there’s no image on the screen; only the PC itself powers on (which is normal after an upgrade). I’m looking for more advice or tutorials to fix this simple problem—it’s really frustrating because I just want to play games using my new Arc B570! Please help! (Translated using a tool, as I am a Spanish speaker.)

Looking for help on upgrading my ssd , I have a gam8ng set up but I would like to upgrade to a 2tb ssd drive, was hoping someone could point me in the right direction, I have a high end for my running programs, just want it as a second drive strictly for games, any help would be much appreciated.

noob here. is this normal?

I have this issue once in a while, suddenly my pc won't give me video when i try to turn it on, keyboard and mouse don't turn on (no lights) either. I take the graphics card out, same problem, take ram out or switch positions and everything, same issue. All the components work on other computers. But i can get them to work on mine, i get no video and for that i can't even enter the bios, which i also can't reset, taking the battery out doesn't reset it, the jumper thingy also doesn't reset the bios.

But after days of swapping components and taking things in and out it magically works again like nothing ever happened? I'm tired of this but I'm not sure what is causing it or how the heck I'm I solving it.

I have an Asus A320-K , Ryzen 3200g, two sticks of ram one 8gb and other 16gb and a gtx1050. Everything works perfectly if i put them in other computers just not on mine :/

I have an old HP Elitedesk 800 G1 that I'm using for gaming. 400 watt PSU, core i5, 24 GB DDR3. Recently I upgraded my graphics card from a Radeon 6600 to a NVIDIA 3060ti but when I go to certain parts of Cyberpunk, my machine starts making this noise. I'm using CachyOS and have restricted my graphic card's power draw to 160 watts.

It only happens on Cyberpunk and only in certain sections. What is it and should I be concerned?