I knew about the blem when I bought it. New production 2025 Elbit XLSH with on paper MH24 specs 2394 FOM with great minor specs. Fantastic light response and gating.

But I don't know what caused this blem from the factory. It looks in person like someone cut it. Spec sheet says the tube is spotless but there's two pepper blems that are less than .2mm and the cut blem width is also shy of that. Just unique and curious if someone might know.

It's even with throughout and not round so it's not laser burn or sun burn.

Working on a Cerakoted, AA-powered articulating MJF bino housing targeted under $699

Quick CAD render of the current prototype layout. The final version will feature our own custom in-house electro-anodized metal dovetail for a rock-solid lockup

Working unit showcase in a couple of weeks! 🤞

I’m looking to buy a set of nods off someone. The specs are as follows, I’m also second in line on these. He’s talking to someone who he’s waiting on payment from but if it falls through he will let me know

Low light innovations MH-1 with panning arms
Tubes are L3 Filmless white.

SNR: 40.6/39.7
EBI: 0.3/0.6
Halo: 0.7/0.8

Hey all, just a question. Bought this new tube and noticed the border on the left side protrudes more than anywhere else. I’m new to nods just wanted to make sure this can be a normal cosmetic thing or if I should be worried. I only notice it if I intentionally look at it but freaked me out a bit lol.

I read the beginners guide and watched a few videos trying to figure what I want to go for as my first Nvg setup.

I am still in between gen2+ and Gen 3 depending on the price. My budget is 5.5k and so far i am having a hard time figuring out what to go with.

I saw a pair of Gen 3 green phosphore thin filmed l3 in katana housing that would fit the budget but I have no idea what else this budget could get me.

if you know of a reputable builder/website and want to show me what my budget can afford me please feel free to help.

Found these two surplus Gen III green-phosphor MX-11769 tubes being sold in my country for the same price and I’m trying to decide which one is the better buy. Both of them are in Carson housings with Carson Glass.

One is an L3 11769FG-NA-C001-16LM, and the other is a Harris F9815M16G. Both appear clean and look good through the tube, but unfortunately there are no spec sheets for them. I'm a beginner to night vision and this is a big investment for me. Any opinions or insights would help. Thank you!

• iPhone 16 pro max default camera app / default settings.
• Orion Nebula
• The Pvs14 Gen 3 monocular night vision device with the following specifications:
• Photocathode Sensitivity: 2058 FOM: 2700 SNR: 37.5 EBI: 7 Halo: 7 Center resolution: 72
• Unfilmed/filmless Gated 18UM 11769 style is also mentioned.
• Sky-Watcher 300P Flextube
• @F/3.6 with nexus focal reducer .75x
• Sky-Watcher 150i
• Tele Vue 55 mm (67 mm conversion) eyepiece
• Sharpcap polar aligned and synscan pro one star alignment.
• 22lbs counterweights
• SVBONY SV220 Telescope Filter, 2" 7nm Dual-Band Nebula Filter, Reduce Stray Light, H-Alpha&O-III Narrowband Filter for One-Shot Color Camera

I live in the woods and frequently end up walking my dogs at night. There are basically no cars where I live so it’s perfect to run night vision.

My question is, how does one decide between duals and monos? I have one very dominant eye (I naturally shoot with both eyes open) so I think I could run a mono and still see out of the other eye when needed but I don’t know. This would also let me use my thermal scope from one eye without flipping up the night vision.

Has anyone bought duals only to later regret it? Is mono not as enveloping?

I carry a FLIR scope but want something I can leave on the entire walk.

I think I’ve exhausted all of my research resources, so I’m curious if any of you guys can tell me any info about my tubes:

From a PVS-15B
MX-10160/UV
CAD in 08/43 and 08/44
Cage 55311
Contract: N00164-04-D-8530
55311 ASSY 245180-907

Seems like they’re L3. I was under the impression they were Omni 7, but the contract doesn’t support this. Based on dates, I’m assuming original tubes. Any idea what the UV is? Blackice associates 245180-907 in PVS15 with 10160B tubes, possibly early filmless.

Any ideas? Trying to understand what the specs could possibly be.

It’s solid, somewhat light, just works perfectly for my like. Have a second one in odg that I broke. Put a regular size key rings in to the retention holes, and of course it acted as a lever one night and set itself free. The binos were fine, just a broken loop.
Wanted to shout out LLI customer service and G.L. In particular. If your stuff breaks, just a little patience and they’ll take care of you. Sent the part out with the tool required to replace the rear bridge and I’m back and running 100%, not afraid to break it again.

I got this unit from a pawn shop for 500 dollars a few months back and noticed its pretty much useless in super low light conditions and definitely needs an ir illuminator. I dont have any experience with nvgs outside of this unit so i dont know if thats normal. I have some photos that show the ambient light in the room. Cracks are on my phone camera not the nods.

Edit.

From SMS Laser Official

This is a drawback of the design we used to eliminate parasitic battery drain. The Trinity has the same issue, too. It might show up as IR laser flickering, and you guys may just not have noticed it.

When the unit is in OFF mode, the chip is completely powered down. Pressing the FIRE button briefly supplies power to the chip, but at that moment, the chip hasn't fully initialized yet, so it can't determine which mode the selector is set to.

We could fix this bug by keeping the chip running on a tiny amount of current at all times. However, that would introduce the parasitic battery drain everyone talks about. If you left a battery installed for several weeks, it might be completely drained even without using the unit.

With the current design, neither the Trinity nor the Titan will drain the battery while turned off, even if you leave it sitting unused for six months.

Another possible solution would be to introduce a slight delay in the FIRE button's response, giving the chip enough time to initialize and recognize the selected mode.

----‐----------

Got one of the pre-production SMS Titan units in and have been using it and filming what I've noticed. Trying it against the Trinity and Holosun IRIS3.

Titan pre-production issue

So I've seemed to have found a quirk with the pre-production SMS laser Titan.

When you have it in the off position and you hit the fire button. There seems to be an electrical discharge and it causes the IR light to discharge for a split second.

Is this an issue that they know about, and will fix in the final production model?

Idk

The Trinity does not seem to have the same issue.

Is this going to be a problem for you if this is in the final production?

If you're just gonna use this to shoot at a flat range, probably not.

But if you happen to be doing force on force in the woods, and it accidentally gives away your position, maybe, yes.

I got videos of me testing with this on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/6hNJKPT7AxQ?is=cDFqWQrxjMe30X9c

Doing my part to put people at ease on trail walks

I got down to a little sight in range near my house yesterday and had enough time (but not enough ammo) to put 500 rounds through my URGI upper with the new Titan laser mounted. Wanted to test it's ability to hold zero. I know 500 rounds isnt a LOT, but I am not a rich guy and ammo banged for the sake of testing kinda seems like a waste.

It held zero!

https://youtu.be/yu99fMMmu28?si=5FlaU1KdmQuIQdBQ

Can you guys school me on options on how best to run the Iris 3 vis override with a white light set up? I know there are not currently any switches to buy that accomplish this. If yall have any pictures of your set ups that would be great

Both are around $14,000. Is there any advantage to the Gen 3 dual tubes that the extra field of view on the Gen 2 quads doesn’t outweight? Is Gen 3 really that much better that 2 Gen 3 tubes is the same price as 4 Gen 2 tubes?

I don’t really know anything about night vision so if anyone could explain this I’d appreciate it!

I scanned the instruction manual for the Titan and made a video comparison between the Titan and the Trinity. Same same, but slightly different. Also, the Trinity's website says its made out of 7075 aluminum but the manual says it's 6061..... anybody else notice this?

https://youtu.be/AwUfi5AoVbo?si=5TneHwr9uGlIY_XT

Just picked up a new pretty much new opsin for $1000. I want to know everyone’s experience with it. Didn’t want to drop a lot of money as I would probably shoot at night with it maybe once or twice a month.

I recently purchased the pre-production model of the Titan and found the vis laser to be extremely underwhelming. I can’t see the laser beyond 10m in full sunlight. The literature says the power output is <5mw, but my MAWL-DA on short/A outputs at 5mw and I can see it easily at 25m, and sometimes out to 50m. I did the “rage mode” unlock and tried adjusting the brightness, but no change. I did notice it doesn’t appear the brightness on the vis laser changes at all. Am I missing something? Is the laser stuck in a low power mode, or is the laser just closer to 1mw than 5mw? Thanks.

Edit: Kept trying per the instructions and it eventually went into full power mode. No issues now. Thanks all.

How's everyone doing? I recently bought a pair of ATN Binox HD night vision binoculars knowing they didnt turn on. Didn't pay much for them, and im wondering if anyone knows how to even get them apart?

Basically, I got new batteries for it, no power response. I plugged it into a wall charger, no power response. Nothing. Im hoping if I cam get the taken apart I cam find the fault and it might be an easy fix. But the issue is... figuring out how they come apart!!!